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  • Super User
Posted

@BubbaBassin’ Your problem ain't techniques, it's reading structure & your electronics.

  • Like 1
Posted
2 minutes ago, Catt said:

@BubbaBassin’ Your problem ain't techniques, it's reading structure & your electronics.

I think next time I go out, which may be in an hour or so, I’m going to focus on graphing and try and at least find some fish. I just have to go shallower than 40 I suppose.

  • Super User
Posted

Most sonar units have a "auto" and "manual" setting. Your unit may be on manual with lower reading number set at 40'. I prefer manual settings with gain setting higher then auto to read thermoclines and small targets. 

Eufala lake has tremendous amount of structure elements to search and sets up a thermocline around 35' when power generators aren't running. I would start using the "auto" settings to get familiar with your unit. If you feel comfortable setting up manual then set the upper reading at 0 and lower at 50', gain up to where the clutter doesn't overwhelm the display. If your unit reads HD high density fish are dots not arches. Arches with tradition DI is the signal approaching a fish, gets wider as you past over the fish and tappers down as signal weakens forming the arch.

You need to invest in a front unit with TD on the TM to be able to watch while you fish to control where you are located.

Practice with your unit or get someone to help you.

Tom

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted
15 minutes ago, WRB said:

Most sonar units have a "auto" and "manual" setting. Your unit may be on manual with lower reading number set at 40'. I prefer manual settings with gain setting higher then auto to read thermoclines and small targets. 

Eufala lake has tremendous amount of structure elements to search and sets up a thermocline around 35' when power generators aren't running. I would start using the "auto" settings to get familiar with your unit. If you feel comfortable setting up manual then set the upper reading at 0 and lower at 50', gain up to where the clutter doesn't overwhelm the display. If your unit reads HD high density fish are dots not arches. Arches with tradition DI is the signal approaching a fish, gets wider as you past over the fish and tappers down as signal weakens forming the arch.

You need to invest in a front unit with TD on the TM to be able to watch while you fish to control where you are located.

Practice with your unit or get someone to help you.

Tom

I tried explaining this to the humminbird tech support as well but they didn’t get what I was saying. No matter what I set my lower range at, it loses all reading at 40 feet. No thermocline bar, nothing, I can see what’s above 40 but I cannot read a bottom or anything below 40. I’ll try and get a picture when I go out again.

A6BB525C-938A-4F56-B168-613FD4073E70.jpeg

  • Super User
Posted

I am not a Hummingbird user so can't help you. Try looking up how to reboot your unit to factory default settings. The head unit isn't reading correctly or the TD  isn't functioning correctly cutting off the signal at 40'. The auto setting is doing this?

Tom

Posted
6 minutes ago, WRB said:

I am not a Hummingbird user so can't help you. Try looking up how to reboot your unit to factory default settings. The head unit isn't reading correctly or the TD  isn't functioning correctly cutting off the signal at 40'. The auto setting is doing this?

Tom

I factory reseted them when the problem began and have tried twice since, I think it’s my transducer, I just don’t have the money to replace it so I’ve left it alone. And yes sir, the auto setting does this and when you have it manually set below 40’

  • Super User
Posted

Try posting your problem in the Marine Electronics forum. Maybe a Hummingbird user can help you out.

Tom

Posted

@WRB @Catt

Went out today, found a big hump surrounded by 40+ deep water and came up to a hazard bouy in about 6 feet, Ran a crankbait through, saw a lot of bait running and something jumping but couldn’t see what it was, ended up being a massive (school)? Of gar. I caught three, shook of 5+ of the toothy jerks before my 1.5 xtra deep gave out and started turning itself in circles. The bottom was covered in chunk rock and hydrilla, Was wondering if the gar would keep bass away from that area? Spent an hour or so there and there all I could catch. Wanted to get a more experienced opinion. Sorry to keep bugging you, just trying to learn anything I can.

 

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0FC82F09-8275-426A-807A-584381460808.png

  • Super User
Posted

Catt has more experience with garr then I do. Good looking spot with funnel zone between the island and hump. My guess is the garr are there because abundance of bait and bass will be located on that hump. Timing, remember the hump and try agian a few hours later or earlier before the garr take it over.

Tom

Posted
1 minute ago, WRB said:

Catt has more experience with garr then I do. Good looking spot with funnel zone between the island and hump. My guess is the garr are there because abundance of bait and bass will be located on that hump. Timing, remember the hump and try agian a few hours later or earlier before the garr take it over.

Tom

So the way I understood it, is that the bass will use that shallower water as a feeding area, and when they’re done feeding/ uncomfortable with the current conditions, they’ll retreat to that deeper water, and that funnel area between that hump and island will create a place of concentrated fish trying to move with the current? I’m still learning the structure aspect of fishing, which I’ve come to realize is the most important part, I originally got too caught up in the cover aspect as a lot of mainstream fishing media tends to ignore the structure of areas that are being fished. 

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