Tatula Elite blowing up my spool every cast.Help?

[liquid_30]

So I got the Tatula elite this week. take it out of the box and spool it up with some 12lb P-line Fluoro. first cast light pitch small backlash at 18 for the brake. turn it to 20 and pitch a few more times with decent results but still some over spin on the spool. I go to make my first cast nice and easy not overthrowing the jerkbait I got on the 7ft medium pole. it goes about 20 ft and backlashes worse than I have ever seen. spend about 20 min getting the backlash out. I am already at 20 on the brake system so I do a few more pitches and most of them backlash slightly at the end. I thumb the spool and make another cast and seems like it went OK at best, the cast only went about 30-40 ft. after this I spend the next hour backlashing like crazy and I cant seem to get a cast where im not having to pull line off the spool. At this point im annoyed at the cost of the reel and the results combined with the "ZERO adjustment" from factory. I start to adjust the zero adjustment like I do on my other bait casters and I cannot seem to hit any sweet spot where the spool actually stops when the bait hits the water. I barely touch the knob and it goes from not letting the bait fall to a complete backlash just from falling waist high. is there anyone that has had the same issues with this reel? am I doing something wrong? any advice would be much appreciated at this point considering I cant even get one decent cast off.

[Quarry Man]

Try this:

 

1. check to make sure you spooled the reel correctly AND that the line correctly goes through the TWS.

2. Make sure the line goes OVER the bar near the TWS

 

this should be the cause of your poor results.

 

if not, here is a reminder on how to setup a real, regardless of zero adjustment:

 

1. tighten spool tension knob all the way

2. Set mag dial to 10

tie on a 3/8 oz jig or the likes

3. make a cast

4. loosen spool tension knob slightly

5. repeat steps 3-4 until reel functions

 

an alternate approach would be to loosen it until it wobbles back and forth slightly.

 

 

if not, ill buy the reel

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Why do you expect the spool to stop automatically when the lure lands? Every baitcaster requires thumb control. 

[Hammer 4]

Watching to much of "The Reel Test" on youtube..he never uses his thumb, and regards reels that you have to use your thumb as somewhat..of lesser performance reels. Like DVT said, use your thumb..

[MN Fisher]

5 minutes ago, Hammer 4 said:

Watching to much of "The Reel Test" on youtube..he never uses his thumb, and regards reels that you have to use your thumb as somewhat..of lesser performance reels. Like DVT said, use your thumb..

Either he's using magic - or careful editing. I can't imagine a BC reel that you don't have to use your thumb with.

[Hammer 4]

9 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

Either he's using magic - or careful editing. I can't imagine a BC reel that you don't have to use your thumb with.

He shows semi close ups of the reel after he's made a cast, I can clearly see, that his thumb is either on, or hovering above the thumb bar..I should mention he's  BFS guy, mostly uses high end reels, but he did test the Elite.

[MN Fisher]

2 minutes ago, Hammer 4 said:

He shows semi close ups of the reel after he's made a cast, I can clearly see, that his thumb is either on, or hovering above the thumb bar..I should mention he's  BFS guy, mostly uses high end reels, but he did test the Elite.

Well I know my thumb is going to be feeling line every cast. Best reels I have are a pair of Fuegos and a Supreme...I know they'd blow up if I didn't thumb them.

[Tywithay]

Is it the pitching version, or the long cast? Also, I'd double check the inductor to make sure it's not sticking. 

[fishwizzard]

The braking system on your reels wants to have no spool tension to work as designed, that is why they make the knob hard to move.  

 

I suspect it's either defective or your casting stroke is to blame, the Daiwa system does not like hard snappy casts, but if you are having issues pitching then I would lean towards there being an issue with it.  Set the spool tension back to fully loose and set the brakes at max.  Make slow and east sidearm casts, making sure that the rod is loading on the backcast. It should not make a long cast that way but it should take almost no thumb at all.  Now set the brakes to 50% and make the same cast.  IF you don't notice a big difference in casting I would send the reel back.

 

I will have to disagree with people who are saying you have to use your thumb, reels with Magforce Z or SV braking systems can be very very controlled.  I do thumb my spool to slow and stop it but that is more of an accuracy thing.  If you set I to take little to no thumb you are not going to win any distance contests but it's very easy to pull off with a smooth casting stroke. 

 

I made the video below a few days ago to help a friend diagnose a sound his reel was making, so I didn't thumb it at all so he could hear the "normal" castig sound.  The reel is a Daiwa Fuego CT, which has the same brakes as your Tat.  The spool tension is set to allow a little side to side spool movement and the brakes are at 50%.  It's hard to see but I am using no thumb until after the lure hits the ground, you can see the line just in front of the spool jump when the lure hits.  There is no backlash, just some line backrolling a bit.  

 

 

[Cgrinder]

If it's the pitchyflippy Elite, that spool is on the faster side. I blew that reel up good a couple times trying to get 'er dialed in. It also doesn't seem to love lighter lures.

 

However your reel doesn't sound like its functioning properly. Pop the spool out and exercise the inductor by moving it out gently a couple of times. Sticky inductors happen. You get a reeeeeeally good backlash when you cast a reel with a stuck inductor.

 

Lastly, HOT TAKE: if your spool stops automatically upon the bait hitting the water, you're overbraked and leaving performance on the table.

[Quarry Man]

1 hour ago, Cgrinder said:

pitchyflippy

lol thats gold

[redmeansdistortion]

Quick question.  When you fed the line through the TWS, did you go over or under the metal bar in front of the spool?  If you fed it under, you're getting a lot of friction on the line which can result in a backlash.  The line should go over that bar.

[new2BC4bass]

13 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

Either he's using magic - or careful editing. I can't imagine a BC reel that you don't have to use your thumb with.

Try a Magforce 3D or older Excense DC.  Not sure about the SV, but I will take BaitFinesse's word for it.  I've got a couple SV spooled reels, but don't recall if I've tried them with no thumb.  I know for sure I have the other 2 reels I mentioned.

[MN Fisher]

4 minutes ago, new2BC4bass said:

Try a Magforce 3D or older Excense DC.  Not sure about the SV, but I will take BaitFinesse's word for it.  I've got a couple SV spooled reels, but don't recall if I've tried them with no thumb.  I know for sure I have the other 2 reels I mentioned.

And all out of my price range....

[Tywithay]

14 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

Either he's using magic - or careful editing. I can't imagine a BC reel that you don't have to use your thumb with.

I don't use my thumb with any of my newer reels.  Just let it fly and thumb for the splash. 

[new2BC4bass]

3 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

And all out of my price range....

Don't know your price range, but even a used Excense DC is on the high end for me.  I've seen Magforce 3D reels for less than $150.  More in my price range. 

[MN Fisher]

7 minutes ago, new2BC4bass said:

Don't know your price range, but even a used Excense DC is on the high end for me.  I've seen Magforce 3D reels for less than $150.  More in my price range. 

Most I've paid for a reel is $79 for one of my Fuegos, $77 for the Supreme, the other Fuego was a gift...that's about my range.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

1 hour ago, BaitFinesse said:

With some of the SV reels you don't even need to thumb the splashdown if you don't want to.  My Alphas SV and Tatula SV are this way.  I still do it out of habit but I do find it useful when skipping a bait under a low dock and I lose sight of it and don't stop the spool at the end of a skip.  "Oh the spool stopped, OK"  

I have both those SV reels the spool tension would need to be tighter and high brake settings for thumb free at end of cast. For "normal" casting or any reasonable distance the settings would have to be much looser and thumb needed at end of cast.

Just got the TS3 and to get thumb free like in this vid below max brake and overly tight spool tension and no distance, would not fish it set up as such.

 

[PhishLI]

48 minutes ago, QUAKEnSHAKE said:

Just got the TS3 and to get thumb free like in this vid below max brake and overly tight spool tension and no distance, would not fish it set up as such.

Yeah, that vid is huksterism! You can even see that the lure didn't land that far away at all. But that reel can launch. Try setting tension to just barely loose, brakes on 5, 7'3" stick, WP 75. Lay into the cast and watch that bait just go and go.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

9 minutes ago, PhishLI said:

Yeah, that vid is huksterism! You can even see that the lure didn't land that far away at all. But that reel can launch. Try setting tension to just barely loose, brakes on 5, 7'3" stick, WP 75. Lay into the cast and watch that bait just go and go.

I have mine with same brake setting on an NRX893 the reel has impressed me more already than the TatSv ever has. 

[fishwizzard]

I have had maybe half a dozen different SV/Magforce Z reels and maybe an 3-4 aftermarket SV spools and for the most part they all require little to no thumb other then at splash down, depending on the exact reel/spool.  In all cases the spool tension is either set with a little side play or just a hair tighter.  The average brake setting is variable, a Alphas SV w/ stock spool lives at 50-75% and up, a Steez SVTW w/ a 1012sv spool lives at like 30-40%.  Even the old Fuago CT reels are set at 50% braking and rarely leave that.  I am never dumping spools with them but I generally get (measured with a surveyor's wheel) 30-40y casts with non-bfs lures, which is about as far as I feel that I can get "100% it's my game to lose" hooksets with the jigs and t-rigged plastics I fish the most.  

 

I can drag my wife out in the yard to shoot some more videos if you guys would like, but it's going to show the same thing.  With the correct casting stroke you can get an amazing amount of control and imho good distance out of the Magforce Z/SV reels. I have two non-daiwa reels, an Aldebaran 50 and a Concept A.  Both cast about the same distances and both take more thumb at the end of a cast then the Daiwas do. 

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

26 minutes ago, fishwizzard said:

I have had maybe half a dozen different SV/Magforce Z reels and maybe an 3-4 aftermarket SV spools and for the most part they all require little to no thumb other then at splash down, depending on the exact reel/spool.  In all cases the spool tension is either set with a little side play or just a hair tighter.  The average brake setting is variable, a Alphas SV w/ stock spool lives at 50-75% and up, a Steez SVTW w/ a 1012sv spool lives at like 30-40%.  Even the old Fuago CT reels are set at 50% braking and rarely leave that.  I am never dumping spools with them but I generally get (measured with a surveyor's wheel) 30-40y casts with non-bfs lures, which is about as far as I feel that I can get "100% it's my game to lose" hooksets with the jigs and t-rigged plastics I fish the most.  

 

I can drag my wife out in the yard to shoot some more videos if you guys would like, but it's going to show the same thing.  With the correct casting stroke you can get an amazing amount of control and imho good distance out of the Magforce Z/SV reels. I have two non-daiwa reels, an Aldebaran 50 and a Concept A.  Both cast about the same distances and both take more thumb at the end of a cast then the Daiwas do. 

I can set any reel I own to do this not just SV spooled reels.

[king fisher]

I have fished with bait casters for 40 years, and consider myself relatively proficient.  My experience is mostly with older Ambassador 5500 and 6500 reels.    I have always used light spool tension on all the my baitcasters.  Relying on my thumb to avoid any backlash.  Last year I bought my first Diawa, a TAT. CT.  I thought I would be able to cast this reel well with the break set at 0 and light spool tension.  I experienced some of the worst back lashes of my life.  I soon learned that with that reel regardless of experience, I would have to use some of the magnetic brake system.  I started with a 3/4 setting, and now usually use somewhere between 1/4  and 1/2 depending on what lure, wind, and how far I want to cast.  I leave the spool tension set with a slight amount of play.  The difference I have noticed with the TAT. CT. is the real wants to backlash very early in the cast.  All of the other B.C. I have used, were prone to backlash from the middle to the end, when the lure starts to slow down. This has been my experience, I don't know if others feel the same.  I now own a couple TAT CTs. and a Coastal 200 preferring them to my other reels.  When I make long casts I instinctively lightly thumb the spool at the very start of the cast.  I normally don't have to use my thumb again until the very end.  With the proper break setting and my thumb adjusted to the differences of Diawa mag break system, I can cast longer than any other reels I have owned.  Although not a fair comparison to other modern reals. because all my other B.C. are older Ambassadors, and other larger reels.  Haven't tried any newer smaller Lews, or Shimanos.  I'm sure I would be impressed with their performance too.  If you are getting bad backlashes with high break settings, I would suspect something is wrong with the reel. On my reels It is almost impossible to backlash with the break set 3/4 to maximum.  High break settings will significantly reduce distance.

[liquid_30]

On 5/6/2020 at 8:58 PM, Quarry Man said:

Try this:

 

1. check to make sure you spooled the reel correctly AND that the line correctly goes through the TWS.

2. Make sure the line goes OVER the bar near the TWS

 

this should be the cause of your poor results.

 

if not, here is a reminder on how to setup a real, regardless of zero adjustment:

 

1. tighten spool tension knob all the way

2. Set mag dial to 10

tie on a 3/8 oz jig or the likes

3. make a cast

4. loosen spool tension knob slightly

5. repeat steps 3-4 until reel functions

 

an alternate approach would be to loosen it until it wobbles back and forth slightly.

 

 

if not, ill buy the reel

thanks, I have done this except I did not have the mag dial set to 10 I had set to 10. Instead of making a cast I was dropping the jig down to the floor. I will try this tomorrow. I seem to be able to get it to where I can bounce the rod up and down the jig barely moves, I back off about 1/32 of a turn and it drops to the floor and backlashes horrible. curious if everyone else has the same touchiness of spool tension? 

[liquid_30]

On 5/6/2020 at 10:06 PM, fishwizzard said:

The braking system on your reels wants to have no spool tension to work as designed, that is why they make the knob hard to move.  

 

I suspect it's either defective or your casting stroke is to blame, the Daiwa system does not like hard snappy casts, but if you are having issues pitching then I would lean towards there being an issue with it.  Set the spool tension back to fully loose and set the brakes at max.  Make slow and east sidearm casts, making sure that the rod is loading on the backcast. It should not make a long cast that way but it should take almost no thumb at all.  Now set the brakes to 50% and make the same cast.  IF you don't notice a big difference in casting I would send the reel back.

 

I will have to disagree with people who are saying you have to use your thumb, reels with Magforce Z or SV braking systems can be very very controlled.  I do thumb my spool to slow and stop it but that is more of an accuracy thing.  If you set I to take little to no thumb you are not going to win any distance contests but it's very easy to pull off with a smooth casting stroke. 

 

I made the video below a few days ago to help a friend diagnose a sound his reel was making, so I didn't thumb it at all so he could hear the "normal" castig sound.  The reel is a Daiwa Fuego CT, which has the same brakes as your Tat.  The spool tension is set to allow a little side to side spool movement and the brakes are at 50%.  It's hard to see but I am using no thumb until after the lure hits the ground, you can see the line just in front of the spool jump when the lure hits.  There is no backlash, just some line backrolling a bit.  

 

 

Thank you. I am thumbing the line for those guys above questioning if I think my reel is magic or something? I have a 150 and throw it all day with minimal thumbing of the spool, and no backlashing. this elite one though is kicking I disagree.... Ive gone as far as to set it down, and reset my 150 with the same jig as the 100. within 3 min I can start casting with little to no issue. the spool tension on the 100 elite seems as if there is a tiny little window of were I can have it and I cannot manage to get it there. Im going to try and pull about 20/25 yrds of line off the spool and try again tomorrow.