Skipping jig baitcasters

[Jigsaw 2/8]

Hey y'all, I want to buy a baitcast rod specifically for skipping jigs under brush, docks, etc. And I'd like to know what length & brand rod this forum would suggest for me.

 

I am fairly short: 5'7" and plan on throwing them with jigs 3/8 - 1/2 ounce. I have a TATULA SV reel with #20 fluorocarbon already to go. 

 

THANKS!

 

[Fishin Dad]

  I am almost 6’3” and still like a somewhat shorter rod when skipping.  It just helps your accuracy and control.  I use a 6’10” mh Tatula and a 7’ mh Villain 2.0 for my main skipping rods.  I do also have a 7’1” m and a 7’3”H I often have a jig tied to I use to skip as well when the cast calls for it.  I am just not as accurate, especially with the 7’3” heavy. 
The other factor that has an effect on skipping is the power and action of the rod and tip section.  A rod with a softer tip is easier to cast and propel the jig.  Not a mushy tip, but with some movement.  Ideally, that softer tip loads into a solid backbone to get bass moving away from cover.   I am still alwAys looking for a great jig rod, so I will be watching this thread to look for any specific suggestions. I am looking at a Kistler Helium 3 to try next.  Good luck in your search!

[new2BC4bass]

I want to learn, but don't skip yet.  Seems you can skip with most rods...if you know how.  May not be the best, tho.  Why not try a rod designed for skipping such as the 6'9" MH+ Zolo Skipper?  3/8-1 oz. rating.

[Teal]

It's easier with a shorter rod if your new to it.  

  Key is , practice!  If helps me to turn the tension down and io the breaks just a hair. But to each their own.  There are videos of it on you tube.

[new2BC4bass]

3 minutes ago, Teal said:

It's easier with a shorter rod if your new to it.  

  Key is , practice!  If helps me to turn the tension down and io the breaks just a hair. But to each their own.  There are videos of it on you tube.

Would a Fenwick ET Smallmouth 6’3” M-MF work?  I was going to try it with a tuned and upgraded Daiwa SV105HSL.  But I could try it with a few other reels.  How do dual brake reels work for skipping?

[WRB]

5 hours ago, Jigsaw 2/8 said:

Hey y'all, I want to buy a baitcast rod specifically for skipping jigs under brush, docks, etc. And I'd like to know what length & brand rod this forum would suggest for me.

 

I am fairly short: 5'7" and plan on throwing them with jigs 3/8 - 1/2 ounce. I have a TATULA SV reel with #20 fluorocarbon already to go. 

 

THANKS!

 

Rethink 20 lb FC line, way too much memory and not needed.

Take a look at ALX Skipper rod.

Tom

 

[Teal]

2 hours ago, new2BC4bass said:

Would a Fenwick ET Smallmouth 6’3” M-MF work?  I was going to try it with a tuned and upgraded Daiwa SV105HSL.  But I could try it with a few other reels.  How do dual brake reels work for skipping?

A 6-3 mm would def work.. it would prob load up great, but dont lose track of what you wana do with the rod.  If you are gonna be using it for skipping lures,  keep in mind where you are gonna skip the lures, and what lures you are trying to skip.  If you are gonna be skipping under docks, under bushes, into and between limos and lay downs, you may want to think about a MH.  If you are thinking about jigs, t rigs, and flukes, I'd stick with a fast action.  

 

I'd practice it with the rod you are using for it now.  Heck, i can skip with my 765 rod and it's a broom stick except for the last 3 inches in the tip.  It's all in the wrist

 If you have a 6 - 8 rod, try it, start with the tip down and just focus on keeping lure low and level.   

 

I havent used the ALX rod that Tom suggested, but a 6-9 my like that would be super easy.   If I'm on a dock bite, I've been known to grab my 683 and use it as a back up or for a different color alternstive...  It being shorter, it helps and I can wind back a little more with out touching side of the boat

 

I've had no issue with either type of breaks.  I will set tension a little looser than normal tho, just loose enough that the lure falls fairly quick when I release it.  

For the OP, I agree with Tom, dont use floro if you arent used to it when you start learning to pitch and skip

  It will be a nightmare.

[Ogandrews]

I fish 100% braid to a leader and I have no issue skipping. If you do decide to use braid, which I would recommend, It is much easier in my opinion with 50-65lbs braid. I use either 50 or 65lbs maxcuatro on almost all of my casting setups besides my really light ones because it is still thin and handles better than the lighter lines. Another thing I would recommend is not over tightening the spool tension of your reel. If it is too tight you will try to throw the bait too hard and it will blow your reel up worse. Generally for learning skipping I think it is easier to learn with a softer rod. Jig trailers can make a difference too, I think it is easier to skip a jig with a trailer with a flat back like a beaver or a rage bug as opposed to something like a rage craw. Don’t try too hard when your trying to learn, I always thought that I needed the perfect setup and angle and it made me over think the whole deal. Just practice underhand roll casts and try to keep the trajectory of your bait as level to the water as possible. 

[Teal]

11 minutes ago, BaitFinesse said:

 

I really don't skip heavier baits unless I am pitch slipping which is a differt animal and prefer a much longer rod.

About half of the time for me pitch skipping is what I do too0... kinda of a back handed pitch and I end it with the rod tip kinda high, this gets you a little extra distance and lands the bait a little softer.  Took me years to stop the back lashes and stop the loud splashes.  If you are passing a dock and it is on your right, you can use that back handed pitch skip to get to and past  the piers on the back side as you are passing it.  Then on the next dock on the front side, it's kinda a front facing side arm deal... I saw a video of a young guy trying to teach how to skip, he goes through talking about it really fast, but if you key in in his mechanics, they are flawless.  I'll find it and post it here.  

Watch "MASTER THE BAITCASTER! How To Skip Baits" on YouTube

He starts with the actually skipping around the 8:30 mark.  I dont agree with everything he says, but watch his mechanics.  Dude is good.  

 

[Ogandrews]

27 minutes ago, Teal said:

About half of the time for me pitch skipping is what I do too0... kinda of a back handed pitch and I end it with the rod tip kinda high, this gets you a little extra distance and lands the bait a little softer.  Took me years to stop the back lashes and stop the loud splashes.  If you are passing a dock and it is on your right, you can use that back handed pitch skip to get to and past  the piers on the back side as you are passing it.  Then on the next dock on the front side, it's kinda a front facing side arm deal... I saw a video of a young guy trying to teach how to skip, he goes through talking about it really fast, but if you key in in his mechanics, they are flawless.  I'll find it and post it here.  

Watch "MASTER THE BAITCASTER! How To Skip Baits" on YouTube

He starts with the actually skipping around the 8:30 mark.  I dont agree with everything he says, but watch his mechanics.  Dude is good.  

 

That is some solid advice, that is exactly how I set up all of my reels. He showed what I was trying to say in my previous post.

[NJBasstard]

I think rod length is mostly all preference. I fish from the bank or a kayak and find a rod between 6'6" & 7' are where I'm most comfortable and accurate. 

 

Not sure but if your just learning skipping theres a thread from a couple week ago on here with some tips called "Skipping and backhanded casting" or something like that. I tell you what helped me..

 

1. Learn to do it without making reel adjustments and learn on multiple reels. The spool on your reel is more forgiving than many others but I always recommend switching it up as not to limit yourself. This probably really slowed down my learning curve but I didn't want to rely on messing with reel settings or picking up a specific setup everytime I want to skip a bait. I keep my brakes set to a minimum and my spool tension loose like always.

 

2. Start heavy and work your way down. Heavier lures skip easier. Two lures identical in size & shape, but one weighing 1/4oz and one weighing 1/2oz the heavier bait will always have more momentum. If it doesn't skip easier than your trajectory is off. A large profile trailer helps.

 

3. Pull out some line and tape the spool. Your going to backlash a lot at first. Even when your comfortable with it you'll still have your share of backlashes. Start with sidearm cast.

 

4. Thicker diameter line is easier to manage. I had better luck with 15lb flouro before downsizing or using braid.

 

5. Watch your target. Where ever your rod tip is pointed at the end of the cast is where your baits going. Also raising the rod tip at the end of the cast seams to help with spool over-run.

 

6. The biggest issue I had was trying to force it. With spinning gear I was use to just whipping the rod however much I wanted too. I tried this for a while on casting gear and it just never worked out. Once I learned to relax and let my wrist and rod do all the work I had a lot more success. 

 

Besides all of those things it really just came down to gaining thumb control. Once you get the concept down and know the trajectory needed you can even practice this stuff in your driveway. Their are guys like Gerald Swindle, Jacob Wheeler, Andy Montgomery and many other fisherman who all have videos covering this on YouTube. Watch closely and try to mimic their actions while out on the water.

[Fastbee]

On 5/1/2020 at 3:13 PM, Jigsaw 2/8 said:

Hey y'all, I want to buy a baitcast rod specifically for skipping jigs under brush, docks, etc. And I'd like to know what length & brand rod this forum would suggest for me.

 

I guess my first response would be why would you want to limit yourself like that?  I mean are you going to swap your rod/reel combo every time you want to skip a lure?  The rod and reel are personal preference and you have to figure out what works for you.  Some guys say shorter rods, but other say longer. I say use what works.  My favorite is an OG Daiwa Tatula 7' MH Regular action rod followed closely by a Kistler Argon 7'1" MH Fast action.  I also skip with my flipping rods (OG Daiwa Tatula 7'6" Heavy Fast or Kistler KLX 7'6" H Mod Fast) and Frog rod (Okuma TCS 7"3" Heavy Mod Fast) just the same though.