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Posted

What are things to look out for in a used boat?

I've been looking around and the 1980's vintage boats are looking attractive (read cheap ;D). Am I taking a huge risk on buying a boat that's 20+ years old?

I'd appreciate any advice/opinions.

Posted

Put on the water before you buy if possibble. have motor checked by pro. to me, the motor is the scary part. new motors arent cheep!

Posted

most older boats have a wood frame.  if water gets through a crack it will swell and become weak.  check the transom by rocking on the motor with force, there should be no flex.

jump on the deck and feel for soft spots too

plus wet boats weigh twice as much

  • Super User
Posted
Maybe I ought to pal up with someone who has a boat?
Join a local fishing club.  You'll learn a lot, and get to fish new waters from a boat all the time.
  • Super User
Posted

If you don't have boat experience, find some who has a lot before you make the plunge.  Have that person go with you if possible to look at any boat you may want.  Otherwise you stand a good chance of buying something that will cost you a lot of time and money to keep it afloat.

  • Super User
Posted

I think you'd best start by assessing your desire and abilities to fix and/or repair a 20 + year old boat and what is your financial situation like to make those repairs should they arise not long after buying the boat.

Much like buying a 20 year old car,  a boat the same age is just as likely to break every time you turn the key on it as that car regardless of what condition it was in when you bought it.  Wiring, plumbing, motors, switches, trailer components, etc. that have seen 20 + years of service are all likely things to break.  

I own older boats for the price, a love of working on boats as well as pride in enjoying what I've fixed or fixed up.  Just know that despite the lower upfront cost of an older boat, there can be a higher backend cost in operating and maintenance.  

As already stated, take someone along familiar with older, wood construction boats and for goodness sake, have the motor checked out by a legitimate mechanic.

Posted

As some have made similar posts already just adding my 2 cents .. Ive been an occasional visitor here in the past , I am a regular on several other boards.. but ..

Take it from someone that has always bought old boats .. and learn from my mistakes and experience..

I bought a boat not me first , but was first used glass boat back about 8 yrs ago .. boat had issues , but motor was good, and it was dirt cheap.. later found out that all the wood in boat was rotted except one small area in the front .. and the decks where good, but beyond that was rot.

I had know idea the cost of replacing the transom .. I got a few prices.. transom alone was 800 -1200 on a 15ft 1977 Bass Boat!

That didnt include the floor, and stringers.. I was like no way .

Surely I can do my self.. after much searching net .. and a few months went by .. I gathered all the info I needed to dive into the project.. and replaced all the wood and glass .. that first boat took 4 - 5 months

Ive done 6 more since then .. working on the most current one now a 1987 Hydra-Sport 17 ft . But I knew it had issues with rot.. but some rot say transom, means lots more rot...

If you buy used check engine very closely.. best take it to a shop and have the engine closely inspected tell them your looking at buying ... do compression and leak down test, check condition of lower unit oil, signs of water, grit or metal in oil, etc

If you buy a 2000 and before unless you get very lucky expect some rot, 99.9 percent of boat before 2000 where made with wood, and also easier to fix when issues arise .. new boats if stringer breaks, or de-laminates.. the way the new boats are made you are pretty much screwed.. unless your the first owner , 2nd owner lifetime warranty is not life time for most makers.. its about 3-7 yrs.

Main thing is to educate your self on all the ins and outs of new and used ..   and know if you buy used expect the worst pray for the best  ;D

  • Super User
Posted

I paid 3400.00 to have the stringers and transom replaced in my Skeeter. I did the floor a year later myself. Cost about 125.00 for materials. Sticker shock made me do it and I am completely happy with the decision.

Posted

Thanks for the replies thus far.

Would it be fair to say that by buying 20+, you're basically paying for the motor and hull?

I've been in deep thought about this, almost hypnotic. ;)  To stay within the economics, the other way is to get an old jon and build a basser from the ground up.  This way I know what's in my boat.  OTOH, I'm probably limiting myself to under 25HP and I'd really like  console steering.  

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