Need some help selecting components for 1st build

[kayaking_kev]

I'm looking at building a all around casting rod and I got some components in mind, but I'm clueless about the sizing and whether they will fit with each other. I'm also clueless about using trim rings and accent parts. I'm looking for something to compliment my Dobyns Xtasy 755c.

 

I'll list what I have in mind from Mudhole so far. Right now, I'm kinda wanting to do a blackout thing with carbon fiber grips and black alconite fuji KW guides. I will most likely be ordering the startup kit to build it with.

 

 

MHX 7'0 Elite-X Rod Blank NSJ843-MHX - (I'm thinking this has a softer tip and will be more versatile)

SKU: #NSJ843-MHX

 

Fuji KW Casting Rod Guide Kit - Black Alconite - (I was going to get the Titanium Torzites, but they are back ordered)

SKU: #KWC-KIT-70-BA

 

Fuji All Purpose Spin/Cast Top - Black Alconite - Size 5 - Tube Size = 4.0 (Not sure if this is the size I need)

SKU: #BFAT-5-4

 

Fuji ACS Trigger Reel Seat - Size 16 - Inside Diameter 12.0 - (I kind of wanted an exposed reel seat, but not sure it would be wise for a 1st build. And again, I'm not sure whether or not I have the right size.)

SKU: #ACSM-12-B

 

CFX Composite Carbon Fiber Grips - Casting Split Grip - ( I believe this is the rear grip only and the fore grip was back ordered, but would still like a link to a good recommendation for them. I do want Carbon Fiber Split Grips, just not sure which ones would fit best for my blank)

SKU: #SG387

 

I would also like to add some sort of cosmetics to the build, such as trim rings and accent parts, but I don't know where to start.

 

 

Any advice or recommendations will be greatly appreciated, thanks!

[MickD]

That guide set has a first guide that is not the optimum height for casters, according to Fuji.  It should be a 10 mm, possibly followed by a KB6, then all the rest of the guides can be one size.  I would use 5.5's, but  For casters I use a Fuji RV6 for the first guide, then Fuji KB's and KT's all the way to the tip with a Fuji SIC LG tiptop. 

 

The specs for the blank tells you which tip top tube size to get.

 

I think building on top in the traditional way is best for a first build, and I use 9 or 10, usually 9,  guides + a tiptop for a blank like this.  I like 5.5 ring size runners for casters, but you can go smaller, but 4.5's are pretty darned small.  I would use 4 or 5 KB's (bigger foot than KT's for the middle of the rod) then KT's to the end.  Alconite or SIC are fine, I wouldn't spend the money for Torzites for a first build.   The Fuji TRVSG RV guide is a light colored finish that will go well with the light stainless KB's and KT's or the light titanium guides.  It's available in a dark finish that will go well with black guides or the dark CC Fuji guides.  The running guides are so small that exact finish matches is not a problem.  IMO

 

The ACSM seat is a good seat that is not hard to build and Mudhole can tell you which bore size is right for that blank.

 

Mudhole can help with the grips.  For most casters used for bass fishing you don't even need a foregrip.

 

Use the Mudhole site to familiarize yourself with the building processes,, tools, materials needed.  There are many excellent videos on line, too.  Mudhole has some and Flex Coat has many.

 

I'd say your specs are close to right, but I would not buy that set, but would start with the RV 6 or KW  10.

 

 

[.ghoti.]

Good advice from Mick. You wont go wrong following it. Allow me to add a point or two.

 

You have selected a spinjig blank. A medium power spin blank is usually equivalent to a med- light power casting blank. The NMB843 may be a better choice for an all around casting blank. Call Mudhole and ask them.
 

The Fuji ACS seat is not well liked. If you have a rod with that seat, and you like it, go ahead and use it. I find it to be very uncomfortable. Many do. I think it depends on hand size, and how you hold it while retrieving.

 

For my money, the most comfortable casting seat out there right now is the Fuji PTS seat. You will need a Fuji Perfect Fit carbon fiber insert tube, which is epoxied into the seat, and an arbor to glue inside the tube. If you want a foregrip, buy the seat with the hidden thread hood.Fuji also makes other Perfect Fit pieces togo with this seat. Get the carbon fiber sleeve to go over the hidden thread hood, and the cap and base trim rings to set it off. You may also like a trim ring to fit at the back end of the reel seat. Mudhole can help you with this. Give them a call. They have some helpful, knowledgable people. Also, you are going with the ACS or ECS reel seat tell them where, on the blank, you want the reel seat to fit. They will then send you the correct size seat for your build.
 

About guides; nine would be about right for that blank. Get one more just to be sure. I use all BLAG guides for most of my builds. I keep sizes 6, 5.5, 5, 4.5, and 4 in stock. For your build I would use a 5.5 first, the one 5, and the rest 4.5. A 4.5 will pass a well tied leader knot. Also a BFCAT tip guides. For the blank you selected get a tip with a 5.0 tube size. The tip size listed in the rod specs is the tube size for the tip guide.

 

if memory serves, the grips you selected have a 3/8” bore. This will need to be larger. These can be difficult to ream by hand, and remain concentric. Here’s a tip. Use drill bit 1/32” larger than the original hole. Do not chuck the bit up in a drill. Twist it through slowly by hand. Then increase drill bit size by 1/32”. Repeat until you get it to fit. I go a bit larger then use a thread wrap or drywall tape to fill the gap. By drilling without a drill, your bore hole will remain in the center of the grip(concentric).

 

good luck.

[kayaking_kev]

Wow, it seems it won't be as easy as I wanted it to be, most of it seems so foreign to me right now. I will have to do some research to figure out exactly what exactly you guys are even talking about, but I'm sure it gets easier after you have done it. I may just buy a Conquest 843 and put off on building one for now or I may look into just getting the NMB843 that comes with the Turnkey kit, but I'm a little skeptical about the components. 

[MickD]

Now you see what rodbuilding is about, two experienced builders taking you in two different directions.  Both will work, but I still maintain, as fuji does , that that first guide needs to be higher in order to be optimum.  Not so much about size, as it is height.  

 

I agree that the PTS is a very good seat, I just thought the one you chose was easier to build.  

 

A turnkey kit may be the best way to start. I always encourage beginning builders to start with an affordable build, not with a really expensive one.  With most of us, we got better with every build for quite a while.  Better to learn on the less expensive stuff.

[.ghoti.]

A turnkey kit is a good way to start. Mick is right on the money about not staring with expensive components. Use a hand wrapper and minimal tools when beginning. 
 

I started with a homemade wrapper and not much else. Got some good advice and built several rods on old garage sale rods to start. Learned how to take a rod apart, and be left with usable components. A useful set of skills. You will make some mistakes, and it is handy to know exactly how to undo what you did wrong without damaging any expensive bits. Spent about a year learning how to wrap guides and use epoxy. There is a learning curve.

 

During that year, I figured out what I really needed to set up my shop. I am really glad I did not rush out and buy everything I thought I wanted. That year allowed me to discover what I needed, as opposed to what I thought I had to have.

 

Don't get discouraged. None of the tasks required to build a fine looking, functional rod are truly difficult. Some just take a little experience.

[kayaking_kev]

I've done a little practice so far on an old rod by taking the guides off and putting them back on. I used a homemade wrapper made out of a cardboard box and bought some sewing thread and locktite 5 minute epoxy. The wrapping wasn't that bad, but the epoxy was inconsistent looking. I'm not sure how much of it had to do with the supplies I was using, but the 5 minute stuff was probably not the best stuff to start with. It seems I would be able to get the job done on the homemade wrapper, but a rod dryer would be useful. I considered buying a cheap little motor like the ones microwaves use to turn the glass plate and rigging it up as a dryer. The biggest concern I had was reaming. But, the turnkey kit is a pretty good deal, I am a little worried about it not having a wire chuck on it though.

[crypt]

1 hour ago, .ghoti. said:

A turnkey kit is a good way to start. Mick is right on the money about not staring with expensive components. Use a hand wrapper and minimal tools when beginning. 
 

I started with a homemade wrapper and not much else. Got some good advice and built several rods on old garage sale rods to start. Learned how to take a rod apart, and be left with usable components. A useful set of skills. You will make some mistakes, and it is handy to know exactly how to undo what you did wrong without damaging any expensive bits. Spent about a year learning how to wrap guides and use epoxy. There is a learning curve.

 

During that year, I figured out what I really needed to set up my shop. I am really glad I did not rush out and buy everything I thought I wanted. That year allowed me to discover what I needed, as opposed to what I thought I had to have.

 

Don't get discouraged. None of the tasks required to build a fine looking, functional rod are truly difficult. Some just take a little experience.

this along with Mick.........can't go wrong with either.....

[MickD]

Rod building wrap epoxy  is a whole different animal than the structural adhesive epoxies.  Wrap epoxy is really a casting resin and it is clearer and levels better than "hardware store" products.  I doubt if anyone can get good looking wraps from the hardware store products.

15 hours ago, kayaking_kev said:

. I considered buying a cheap little motor like the ones microwaves use to turn the glass plate and rigging it up as a dryer. The biggest concern I had was reaming. But, the turnkey kit is a pretty good deal, I am a little worried about it not having a wire chuck on it though

That is exactly what I did and have used it for many years.  The chuck I cobbled is a tuna fish can with 4 small bolts through the side of the can with rubber bands to grab the grips.

[Lyman X]

That blank (NSJ) does not have a soft tip.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

On 5/9/2020 at 9:44 PM, Lyman X said:

That blank (NSJ) does not have a soft tip.

They’re a crisp, fast rod. The MHx mb blanks are nice and more affordable for a first stab at things. I never put a foregrip on a bass rod but that’s your call. Check a rod you like the grip length of by measuring from butt to middle of seat and tell mud hole to size the seat to fit the same spot. 

[Alex from GA]

You can get a complete kit with fitted components for $60 or so less if you choose an MHX blank instead of the Elite.  I've found the MHX blanks just fine for my use.  Don't buy the turnkey kit.  Use a box and buy thread and thread finish separately.  You can use hardware store/walmart epoxy to mount your handle and turn the rod by hand every 15-30 minutes to level the wrap finish.  I made a dryer from a BBQ rotisserie motor over 40 years ago that I'm still using. 

[Angry John]

From what little experience I have your first rod the area to splurge is on high quality epoxy and thread resin. Using something that will come loose or never go clear will frustrate the hell out of you once you finally get it right.  Having a reel seat come loose or a handle come unglued will irritate you to no end.