What's up with fluorocarbon?

[Hook2Jaw]

@dsw1204, I take my reel off the rod and tie a loop at the end.  Then I hook the scale to it and pull.  As soon as the drag clicks, I make a mental note of the reading on the scale and do it a few more times to get a general average of how much pressure it takes to make sweet drag music.

 

Not an exact science, but moreso than pulling the line out by hand.

 

When I set my drag for lines ten pounds or higher, I err closer to 30% of the rated strength and opt for 25% with lines under 10.  My reasoning behind this is I'm often using smaller hooks on the smaller line and don't need as much tension to pop a hook through flesh.  The thinner lines are also more susceptible to breaking due to damage so I like the slight amount of leeway provided by backing off the drag more.

 

I also took a look at the GT knot and the way the leader is prepared before the braid initially passes through worries me.  The knot appears to completely rely on the strength of the weaker polymer line and looks prone to breakage and slippage to me.

 

Learn, live, and love the FG and set your drag meticulously and braid to leader will work out fine for you.  Alternatively, the straight braid approach seems to be working great for you.

 

Good luck!

[kayaking_kev]

I had to laugh at your post because I did the same thing and learned the lesson the hard way when trying to put 20# Fluorocarbon on a spinning reel, it was frustrating as hell! I think it was even a 4000 size reel I tried to put it on, but it wasn't the best brand either though, it was Berkley Vanish. 

 

If you do a lot of fishing in rivers like the Great Miami, I think Braid is less visible anyway. I seen a line visibility test done in different types of waters, and in the rivers like the GMR, the Moss Green braid actually was the least visible. It's only in clear pressured water that I would throw on a Fluorocarbon leader. 

[dsw1204]

Well, it happened to me again.  Decided to try putting on a fluoro leader (8lb test).  Went fishing late this morning and within 5-7 minutes caught my first largemouth (about 1.5 lbs).  But, the next cast something weird and bad happened.  Was not a good cast.  It was one of those line drive casts but suddenly, during the cast, the fluoro leader snapped.  Lost one of those swinging tungsten football jig head hooks with a Netbaits Paca Craw attached.  Did not care about losing the lure, but the hook is a little pricey.

 

I am starting to think that maybe the knot is not a good one for fluorocarbon.  Did a little research on YouTube and l found that lots of people don't like the Palomar Knot with fluoro.  So, I searched the best knot for fluorocarbon and found numerous videos tying the same knot, but nobody gave it a name except one and he was not sure of the name...he called it an Eugene Slip Knot.

 

Anyhow, I dropped the 8lb fluoro and tied on the 20lb fluoro, as a leader...about 12-15'.  And, figured out hot to tie that Eugene Slip Knot.  I will give it a whirl tomorrow, hopefully before the rains come in...won't start fishing until early afternoon.  I am hoping this new knot with the 20lb fluoro will do the trick.  I'm giving fluoro a lot of chances, here.  If I lose any more lures (and, hooks especially), I will drop fluorocarbon for good.

 

All of the ponds and even the Great Miami River has rather unclear water.  So, according to kayaking_kev, I might be better off with my moss green braid, anyhow.  Except, this new  hidden pond I went to today was extremely clear.  I will give that pond another shot, one of these days.

 

 

[Tim Kelly]

You need to balance the leader with the technique. If you're fishing from the bank and chucking a 1/2oz Tokyo rig as far as you can, then 8lb isn't going to work. The 20 would be safer, though probably on the heavy side. 15 might be a better choice. Knots are important with fluoro, but understanding how the whole system works and balances is as important for it all to work as seamlessly as possible.

 

You're doing really, well considering you haven't been fishing very long, and getting to the point where you want to try more things and expand your knowledge, which has a learning curve. Keep at it.

[NHBull]

Every year, I try to put mono or FC on a few more of my rigs and usually go back to braid.  Matt from Tactical Bassin did a great video on braid and mostly uses braid to leader combinations.....it is worth a look-see.

 

 

[dodgeguy]

or you could try sufix advance mono which is low stretch and less visible than braid.

 

[J-rod]

Use what works for you. I used straight 20lb braid on spinning gear for 20 years with no issues and plenty of big bass. Experimented with multiple fluorocarbon brands after listening to all the hype and was not impressed.

 

The only true benefit of fluorocarbon is it sinks... that's it. It is not "invisible". Maybe slightly "less visible" which is only a benefit in crystal clear water with heavier line. Some brands stretch more than the mono equivalent of other brands. There is a place for flourocarbon as a leader, but the benefits do not justify the high price as a mainline, at least for myself.

 

A good co-polymer works great for crankbaits and topwater lures. Straight braid for everything else.