What's up with fluorocarbon?

[dsw1204]

I am kind of new to fishing, this being my second season fishing.  Learned a lot last year and have learned some already this year.  Last year, I fished with a straight braided line almost all of the time.  I put on a monofilament leader for one fishing venture into the Great Miami River, but the rest of the time it was straight braid.  And, I love braid.  I never had any issues with braid.  It is easy to tie, spools up nice, and is very sensitive.  And, had a fairly successful first season with it.  But, throughout the year many people have ranted and raged about fluorocarbon.  I really liked braid so much, I did not try fluorocarbon.  But, was curious.

 

This year, I tried spooling up some fluorocarbon.  And, boy, talk about frustration!  I bought a 300 yard spool of 20lb line.  When I spooled it up and as soon as I cut it from the main spool, the line just jumped off the reel spool...lots of it.  Probably about 10-15 yards of it and it got all tangled up with the reel.  It took forever to untangle.  When I tried again, the same thing happened.  This time, I could not get it untangled.  I had to cut it off and throw it away.  So, I went to Bass Pro Shops (how in the world are they considered essential?, but I am glad they are) and they were kind enough to spool it onto my Pflueger Supreme XT reel.  Actually, they said my line was too big for my small reel and he sold me some 8lb fluoro and he spooled that up for me.

 

So, yesterday, I go out and try it for the first time.  And, sure as shoot, early on the line jumps off the reel (not as much this time).  I was able to get it back on the reel and continue fishing.  But, this happened quite a bit.  Towards the end of my 5-hour fishing venture, it was not happening so much.  But, one time, when I changed lures to a lighter lure, the line jumped off so bad it got tangled so bad with the reel that I had to take the whole spool off and found the line wrapped around that part of the reel (I don't know it's name) that holds the spool stable about ten times.  Wasn't sure I was going to get it out, but after some time, i did unravel it.

 

All in all, I think I am finished with fluorocarbon.  I will probably use it as a leader, but never again will I spool it onto my reel.  How do you guys who like fluorocarbon deal with the issues I was having?

[LonnieP]

What brand Fluorocarbon did you use? Not all lines are the same. Some Fluorocarbon lines are stiff and don't handle well and others are supple and easier to manage. I use 7lb Sniper on my spinning reel and 15lb P-line Tactical on my baitcasters and have no problems. Some people put line conditioner on Fluorocarbon to help also.

[Fishingmickey]

Your using 20# Fluoro on a spinning reel or baitcaster? If it is spinning, it is way too heavy line for a 2500-3000 sized reel. If it is a baitcaster it takes a good practiced thumb. Don't overfill your spool on either type of reel, close the bail by hand on spinning.  Stay away from the light lures using 20# on the baitcaster. One more thing that really makes a difference is the quality of line your using. Some/most of the cheaper line are much stiffer line. Stiffer line means more memory or springy line. You might try some of the KVD line lube and conditioner. 

FM

 

p.s. Lonnie and I agree.

 

[Bluebasser86]

Sounds like you're using it on spinning gear, and in that case 20# would be way too heavy for bass sized spinning gear. 8lb is about the heaviest fluoro I'd use on a spinning reel. Even on casting gear, a lot of 20lb flouro is difficult to manage. IMO, 15-17 pound is about the sweet spot for heavy fluoro on casting gear for all but the heaviest presentations.

[WRB]

Sporting goods stores that sell line always over fill the spool, they get paid by the yard of line. You being new to fishing don't have a clue to what's going on, at least the sales person knew enough to suggest 8 lb FC line for your spinning reel. 

You have braid and like it, so go back to using braid. If you want FC line then use about a 6' length as leader on the end of the braid line.

You will never by happy Using FC as a main line on your spinning reel, requires lots of line management, line conditioners and ability to untwist the line. You are not alone with this problem, search "Fluorocarbon" and you can read a history of complaints like yours.

Stay with braid or braid with a leader.

Tom

 

 

 

 

[Tim Kelly]

You're right to go back to the braid you were using last year and keep the fluoro for leaders if you feel you need them.

 

Fluoro on a bass size spinning reel is difficult and the advantages of sub 10lb fluoro over mono are pretty questionable. Above 10lb it has enough weight to show a difference, but that's not relevant here. 

 

Fluoro on spinning reels requires careful selection of brand and diameter as well as very good line management skills. Even then it won't cast as far or as easily. For someone relatively new to fishing you're doing well to find a system that worked for you last year. Stick with it. If you want to expand your techniques then a medium heavy baitcasting outfit with 15 fluoro would be a good next step, but it will be a learning curve. Your spinning outfit will serve you well for lots of techniques with the braid.

[Cdn Angler]

When I've had that problem on a spinning reel it has usually been because I put on too much line. Try stripping some line. 

 

FYI braid is thinner so you can use heavier lb test braid on spinning reel than mono/flouro. 

 

I've used 30 lb braid on a 4000 series reel no problem, but 20 lb mono jumps off the reel. 

[Finessegenics]

On a spinning reel, I’d still stick with the braid but start using fluorocarbon leaders. Straight Fluoro is hard to manage on a spinning reel though if you really want it 8# or 6# would be ideal. Anything much heavier and you will have the same experience as you just did. There are line ratings on the reel for a reason, but they have more to do with diameter than the strength. That’s why braid works so well. 30lb power pro has about the same diameter as most 8lb monos. Try 30lb mono on a spinning reel and it would be a disaster. The same goes with heavy fluoro lines. 
 

I know it can be intimidating to start tying leaders when you’re new to fishing because now you have to worry about two potential bad knots. That’s the way it was for me at least. Learn your knots and use a fluoro or mono leader. The uni to uni is a good place to start. I personally like a long 10ft leader but even 2-3ft should work. 
 

Also, do you exclusively use spinning tackle? I am asking because I know a lot of new anglers here tend to only stick with spinning tackle even for techniques that are usually associated with casting gear. 

[Black Hawk Basser]

I've done just fine for decades using straight braid.  I've tried fluorocarbon leaders and I'm not convinced that it makes much difference for me.

[roadwarrior]

Hmm...

20# line is WAY too heavy for a spinning reel. Try #6 Tatsu or InvizX.

 

[MickD]

6 pound floro can be handled on a spin reel nicely, but what do you have to give up?  15 pound braid will cast as well and isn't fragile like FC is.  Get a good size fish that gets into a weed ball, and it's over with 6 pound test.  I don't buy FC any more, having tried and tried to find a good one at a reasonable pound test (did'nt), so a really "good" FC will be very expensive, and won't last nearly as long as braid.  And it's more fragile on getting tangles resolved.  This solution doesn't make sense to me.

[FishTank]

I have been using 6lb Trilene XL 100% FC for a few years now and have had zero issues.  Good stuff.  I am not fan of braid on spinning gear.

[dsw1204]

4 hours ago, MickD said:

6 pound floro can be handled on a spin reel nicely, but what do you have to give up?  15 pound braid will cast as well and isn't fragile like FC is.  Get a good size fish that gets into a weed ball, and it's over with 6 pound test.  I don't buy FC any more, having tried and tried to find a good one at a reasonable pound test (did'nt), so a really "good" FC will be very expensive, and won't last nearly as long as braid.  And it's more fragile on getting tangles resolved.  This solution doesn't make sense to me.

I am under the impression that fluorocarbon is much more invisible than braid.  That is why I am trying fluorocarbon, hoping I will catch more bass.  If I lose a big fish because the fluoro breaks then I will drop the fluoro and go straight braid.

[dodgeguy]

You need 8lb invizx or tatsu by seaguar. I would never use a reel smaller than a 4000 size spinning. Look at KVD he uses 4000 size spinners for easier line management. I would take his suggestion as he is the absolute best ever. The bigger spool produces less line twist. That said I hate flourocarbon and refuse to use it for those reasons you mention. I tried a bunch of times to like it but give up every time. This season I'm fishing Sufix Advance Mono. I don't use spinning anymore because Baitcasting has less line issues once you learn how to use it.i use 8 lb mono on a 7ft medium action rod for finesse.

[dsw1204]

7 hours ago, Finessegenics said:

On a spinning reel, I’d still stick with the braid but start using fluorocarbon leaders. Straight Fluoro is hard to manage on a spinning reel though if you really want it 8# or 6# would be ideal. Anything much heavier and you will have the same experience as you just did. There are line ratings on the reel for a reason, but they have more to do with diameter than the strength. That’s why braid works so well. 30lb power pro has about the same diameter as most 8lb monos. Try 30lb mono on a spinning reel and it would be a disaster. The same goes with heavy fluoro lines. 
 

I know it can be intimidating to start tying leaders when you’re new to fishing because now you have to worry about two potential bad knots. That’s the way it was for me at least. Learn your knots and use a fluoro or mono leader. The uni to uni is a good place to start. I personally like a long 10ft leader but even 2-3ft should work. 
 

Also, do you exclusively use spinning tackle? I am asking because I know a lot of new anglers here tend to only stick with spinning tackle even for techniques that are usually associated with casting gear. 

I've gotten pretty good at tying a couple of knots.  The Palomar knotf for tying hooks and lures and the GT knot for braid to fluoro leader.  Both pretty easy knots to learn.

 

What tackle are you referring to?  I did not know there was spinning tackle and baitcasting tackle.  Outside of rods, reels and line the only other tackle I use are the lures and terminal tackle.  Do the lures and terminal tackle come in spinning and baitcasting versions?

11 minutes ago, dodgeguy said:

You need 8lb invizx or tatsu by seaguar. I would never use a reel smaller than a 4000 size spinning. Look at KVD he uses 4000 size spinners for easier line management. I would take his suggestion as he is the absolute best ever. The bigger spool produces less line twist. That said I hate flourocarbon and refuse to use it for those reasons you mention. I tried a bunch of times to like it but give up every time. This season I'm fishing Sufix Advance Mono. I don't use spinning anymore because Baitcasting has less line issues once you learn how to use it.i use 8 lb mono on a 7ft medium action rod for finesse.

A friend gave me a Johnny Morris baitcasting reel (a low end one, I do believe) last summer. I tried it but could not cast it farther than 12-15 feet.  Did not get many birdsnests, just could not get any distance.   I figure I will stay with a spinning portfolio for the time being and maybe try baitcasting after I get a little more experience under my belt.

[Finessegenics]

42 minutes ago, dsw1204 said:

 

What tackle are you referring to?  I did not know there was spinning tackle and baitcasting tackle.  Outside of rods, reels and line the only other tackle I use are the lures and terminal tackle.  Do the lures and terminal tackle come in spinning and baitcasting versions?

No, not at all what I meant. What I meant to say was certain lures are traditionally thrown on baitcasters, like a flipping jig for example. Of course you can do that on a spinning rod too. I’m just asking if you only use spinning rods and reels?

[dsw1204]

41 minutes ago, Finessegenics said:

No, not at all what I meant. What I meant to say was certain lures are traditionally thrown on baitcasters, like a flipping jig for example. Of course you can do that on a spinning rod too. I’m just asking if you only use spinning rods and reels?

Basically, yes, only spinning gear.  One of these days I will try baitcasting in earnest, but for now it will only be spinning.

 

 

[dsw1204]

Well, I am officially done with fluorocarbon.  I am throwing it all away (or giving it to a friend).  I took the fluoro off the spool and re-spun braid.  Put about 12 feet of fluoro (8 lb trest) on as a leader.

 

Today, when I hook up the first fish, the leader snaps when I go to set the hook.  My fluorocarbon experiment is a complete disaster.  I will never go back to it.  I used braid all last year without a single incident.  I don't know how fluorocarbon flourishes in the fishing industry.  For me, it sucks.

 

I chose fluorocarbon because of it's (for lack of a better word) invisibility characteristics.  I hear braid is far more visible.  Does any manufacturer make a braid with invisibility characteristics?  If so, who is that manufacturer and what model is it?

 

 

 

[Hammer 4]

I've used 8 lb fluro and mono on 2500 sized spinning reels for years. Yeah, I've had break off's, but that's part of the game. OTH, I've caught some 6 lb + fish on it too..so there's that. IMHO, a quality fluro is a must, as with all types of line. Spooling the line on your reels Correctly is also important..

[jbsoonerfan]

34 minutes ago, dsw1204 said:

Well, I am officially done with fluorocarbon.  I am throwing it all away (or giving it to a friend).  I took the fluoro off the spool and re-spun braid.  Put about 12 feet of fluoro (8 lb trest) on as a leader.

 

Today, when I hook up the first fish, the leader snaps when I go to set the hook.  My fluorocarbon experiment is a complete disaster.  I will never go back to it.  I used braid all last year without a single incident.  I don't know how fluorocarbon flourishes in the fishing industry.  For me, it sucks.

 

I chose fluorocarbon because of it's (for lack of a better word) invisibility characteristics.  I hear braid is far more visible.  Does any manufacturer make a braid with invisibility characteristics?  If so, who is that manufacturer and what model is it?

 

 

 

I didn't ask these guys if they could see my braid or not, I forgot. Don't worry about fish seeing your line, unless of course you are using hooks with "invisibility characteristics"

[RichF]

Eeeek...multiple guys suggesting a $40 spool of line to a beginner angler (and new to fluoro).  It's not the easiest line to manage but you get used to it. Sounds like you're going back to braid so I don't need to suggest anything else.  Good luck!

[Hook2Jaw]

1 hour ago, dsw1204 said:

Well, I am officially done with fluorocarbon.  I am throwing it all away (or giving it to a friend).  I took the fluoro off the spool and re-spun braid.  Put about 12 feet of fluoro (8 lb trest) on as a leader.

 

Today, when I hook up the first fish, the leader snaps when I go to set the hook.  My fluorocarbon experiment is a complete disaster.  I will never go back to it.  I used braid all last year without a single incident.  I don't know how fluorocarbon flourishes in the fishing industry.  For me, it sucks.

 

I chose fluorocarbon because of it's (for lack of a better word) invisibility characteristics.  I hear braid is far more visible.  Does any manufacturer make a braid with invisibility characteristics?  If so, who is that manufacturer and what model is it?

 

 

 

It's wild to see someone on the opposite end of myself.  I began to commit to bass fishing as a hobby with a spinning reel spooled with 10# fluorocarbon.  I had some management issues, but those were quickly solved by taking every yard off and respooling with 20# braid and attaching a length of fluorocarbon as a leader.  I started with the Crazy Alberto as my line to line knot.

 

I've since moved to the Fine Grip knot as my leader connection.

 

Anyway, enough about my fishing life story.  Before you give up on fluorocarbon, if you want to still keep the option open, make sure you thoroughly lubricate your knot and every bit of line the knot will apply friction to when you tighten it.  I've noticed that braid tends to be more forgiving on the lubrication front.

 

I frequently slobber on several inches of fluoro, and I mean slobber.

 

Just as important to knot lubrication is your drag setting.  I try my best to tie good knots, and I also try my best to make sure my line isn't damaged during routine fishing.  Despite my vigilance, I also try to give myself some leeway with the breaking strength of my fluorocarbon or monofilament.  I set my drag with my scale to 25% to 30% of my line's rating.

 

It doesn't take much to whip a bass.  3 pounds of pressure with 10# fluorocarbon does it often for me.  I don't break off on hooksets when I tie proper, prepared knots and check the integrity of my fluorocarbon in tandem with setting my drag.

[dsw1204]

1 hour ago, Hook2Jaw said:

It's wild to see someone on the opposite end of myself.  I began to commit to bass fishing as a hobby with a spinning reel spooled with 10# fluorocarbon.  I had some management issues, but those were quickly solved by taking every yard off and respooling with 20# braid and attaching a length of fluorocarbon as a leader.  I started with the Crazy Alberto as my line to line knot.

 

I've since moved to the Fine Grip knot as my leader connection.

 

Anyway, enough about my fishing life story.  Before you give up on fluorocarbon, if you want to still keep the option open, make sure you thoroughly lubricate your knot and every bit of line the knot will apply friction to when you tighten it.  I've noticed that braid tends to be more forgiving on the lubrication front.

 

I frequently slobber on several inches of fluoro, and I mean slobber.

 

Just as important to knot lubrication is your drag setting.  I try my best to tie good knots, and I also try my best to make sure my line isn't damaged during routine fishing.  Despite my vigilance, I also try to give myself some leeway with the breaking strength of my fluorocarbon or monofilament.  I set my drag with my scale to 25% to 30% of my line's rating.

 

It doesn't take much to whip a bass.  3 pounds of pressure with 10# fluorocarbon does it often for me.  I don't break off on hooksets when I tie proper, prepared knots and check the integrity of my fluorocarbon in tandem with setting my drag.

I was using the 8lb fluoro leader attached to 20lb braid, today.  The leader was about 12' long.  When my line broke today, I really did not check to see if it was the knot that failed or if it was the leader.  I just assumed it was the leader line that snapped.  When it comes to knots, I always tie the Palomar Knot to tie to the lure.  My line to leader knot is always the GT knot.  I chose the Palomar because a seasoned-fisherman friend recommended it and a lot of people on YouTube say it's the best with braid.  About the only other knot I know is the Improved Clinch Knot.  Would the ICK have been a better choice on the fluorocarbon line?

 

Also, how in the world do you set your drag with your scale?  I do have a digital scale and I assume it is accurate.  I would like to know how you set your drag to 25% - 30% of your line's rating?

[JLewis134]

10 minutes ago, dsw1204 said:

I would like to know how you set your drag to 25% - 30% of your line's rating?

It doesn't have to be perfect. It's just a general rule of thumb. I go by my gut feeling. Do what feels right to you.

[dsw1204]

The only way I have set my drag is by hand.  If I can easily pull the line off the spool, that is where I set my drag.  If I hook a big one (and I've caught a few big ones) and she is taking the line too easily, I will adjust the drag, but I have no idea what poundage I am at. That is what I have done since I started fishing last year.  I'd like to know if I am at 10lbs or12lbs or 8lbs or whatever with the drag setting, however.  I'd like to know how to set it with a digital scale.  Just to know.