Gfd63 Posted March 21, 2020 Posted March 21, 2020 Got a nw Lowrance Hook Reveal 9” for the Hobie Mirage Compass. Lookin at YakAttack or Ram ball mounts that will mount in the trac system. What have y’all installed on your rigs & any preferences? Tite Lines 2020 Quote
CountryboyinDC Posted March 22, 2020 Posted March 22, 2020 I have a bit smaller graph, a 7" Lowrance HDS, and it's mounted on a Cell Block from Yak Attack. I used the gimbal bracket that came with it. If you wanted to mount right to the track rail, I would go with the Ram ball system. The adjustability and holding power of that system is phenomenal. When Yak Attack came out with their new rod holder, I got one. Bottom line is it's fine, but the Ram system is still the best IMO. Quote
Gfd63 Posted March 22, 2020 Author Posted March 22, 2020 Roger that CountryBoy. I’ll check out the Ram mount. ?? Quote
Smalls Posted March 26, 2020 Posted March 26, 2020 I'm using a smaller graph with a B (1") sized ram mount. I like it. It's solid, and easily removable. Easy to mount and move, too. I'd probably move up to a C (1.5") size for a 9" graph, but I'm sure the smaller size would work fine, too. Quote
LadiMopar Posted March 26, 2020 Posted March 26, 2020 I use a Deeper Pro+ sonar (castable or flex.mount unit) which requires a tablet as the screen. I wouldn't trust anything but the RAM locking tablet mount in the track system of my yak...I also use their mounts for my video camera....super solid construction, and imho well worth the money spent on them. My Feelfree yak has a proprietary track system which means I have to use Feelfree uni-trac mounting system, what do you plan to bolt the ball mount too? Quote
Smalls Posted March 26, 2020 Posted March 26, 2020 2 hours ago, LadiMopar said: My Feelfree yak has a proprietary track system which means I have to use Feelfree uni-trac mounting system, There's ways around using the both the unitrack plate or the adapters ? Quote
Matt Eisen Posted March 29, 2020 Posted March 29, 2020 On 3/21/2020 at 9:32 PM, CountryboyinDC said: I have a bit smaller graph, a 7" Lowrance HDS, and it's mounted on a Cell Block from Yak Attack. I used the gimbal bracket that came with it. If you wanted to mount right to the track rail, I would go with the Ram ball system. The adjustability and holding power of that system is phenomenal. When Yak Attack came out with their new rod holder, I got one. Bottom line is it's fine, but the Ram system is still the best IMO. How do you feel about YakAttack's CellBlok? Because I'v been looking to purchase it, however, I've been reluctant because I can't see how it'll work. Specifically, what I mean is I have a paddle kayak not a pedal.... as a result, the lower half of my body, anything between my legs, or stuff on my track mount is going to get soaked because of the water dribble that comes off paddle while im paddling. I dont feel comfortable getting my fish finder wet, IN ADDITION to getting the cell block wet that has a battery inside of it and getting that wet too. I'm either gonna break something or electrify myself on the water... Thoughts? Quote
CountryboyinDC Posted March 29, 2020 Posted March 29, 2020 Hi @Matt Eisen. Yes, I've put the Cellblock on my paddle-only kayak (Jackson Coosa HD), and it's less than idea for a number of reasons. It interferes with my normal forward paddle stroke and front sweeps, even with the seat way back in the high maneuverability position. I get some water on the graph itself and on the Cellblock. None inside the Cellblock, though. Not that I should worry about the battery, it's a Nocqua and should be pretty well sealed the way I have it. And one other issue is that it causes the boat to list, which in turn means more corrective paddle strokes (this is not a great paddling boat to start with, but it's a great boat for shallow rivers). On my pedal kayak, all of this is pretty well eliminated - after all I'm only paddling when I'm in 2' of water or less. The boat itself (an Old Town Predator PDL) has a lot more flotation built into the outer part of the hull by design, so if it lists at all, I don't notice it. And to top it off, when I'm done fishing, voila, off comes the graph, transducer, and battery as a single unit to be locked up. 1 Quote
Matt Eisen Posted March 29, 2020 Posted March 29, 2020 @CountryboyinDC I hear what you're saying, thank you for saying that. I also hear what you're saying about accessories getting in the way because on my Perception pescador I have a yak attack rod holder I like having on one of the rails in front of me and I can't stand it because it always seems to get in the way of my stroke, no matter where it is on the rails lol. I actually prefer just setting the rod in between my legs pointed towards the nose of the boat and paddling to my next spot no problem Still sketched out by the idea of water touching the Cell Blok because of the paddle dribble. How does water NOT get inside when that happens? Quote
CountryboyinDC Posted March 30, 2020 Posted March 30, 2020 @Matt Eisen, the CellBlock seems to be designed to keep water out, particularly low pressure stuff like spray and paddle dribble. Without going into great detail, the surface of this polyethylene is hydrophobic, there are no huge gaps, the top is the largest dimension piece, etc., Water certainly can get in there. I'm sure if you powerwashed it or submerged it, it would get water inside. It even has a slot cut in it up toward the top. It just doesn't under the conditions which I've used it. If you have a Pescador with the console, I've seen several people mount the graph on the console, and that's probably your best bet. I think it has battery storage and a transducer scupper, so it's probably super obvious how to make that happen and you'll avoid some of the drawbacks to the Ceelblock (no listing, etc.). If yours has the front hatch and no console, the best solution could be a number of ways, and I haven't been around enough of that model to know. You might want to mount the transducer inside the hull, at the transom, or off an arm. I don't think you'd like the Cellblock in your case, though. 1 Quote
Matt Eisen Posted March 30, 2020 Posted March 30, 2020 @CountryboyinDC I'm glad you told me more info about the cell blok because I never would've known that it's hydrophobic material. Good to know! You're thinking of the Pescador Pro, mines actually the Pescador 12.0 ( a model down from the pro). It unfortunately doesnt have the battery storage in the front like the Pro does. I guess I just have to get over my aversion to drilling holes in a kayak. I liked the cellblok because there's rails by my seat and feet and I could put the fish finder, transducer arm, and battery all in the cell blok. It would be safer in the hull though... I'm gonna have to get creative or get over the fear of things getting wet. Thanks for the info! 1 Quote
CountryboyinDC Posted March 30, 2020 Posted March 30, 2020 @Matt Eisen, I remember worrying about drilling into a kayak coming from canoes, where the old adage is you don't want any holes below the gunwales, and only one above. I have drilled into all of the kayaks I own now. I think you want to make sure that whatever reason you're drilling a hole is going to also hold a decade from now. Make sure that you measure and get the holes straight - I've seen screws with no attachments where the owner said something like 'after I got it all set up, I realized I couldn't get my hatch open'. And make sure all your holes are above the waterline a few inches. Polyethylene (HDPE, specifically, which is what your kayak, the Cellblock, and so many other things are made of) is pretty good about forming around screws and not allowing water in, so long as you don't put excess stress on the fasteners/plastic holding them to wallow ther holes out. In my pedal kayak, I've now put holes for anchor trolleys on both sides as well as an 8" hole for a hatch. 1 Quote
dickenscpa Posted March 30, 2020 Posted March 30, 2020 5 hours ago, CountryboyinDC said: @Matt Eisen, I remember worrying about drilling into a kayak coming from canoes, where the old adage is you don't want any holes below the gunwales, and only one above. I have drilled into all of the kayaks I own now. I think you want to make sure that whatever reason you're drilling a hole is going to also hold a decade from now. Make sure that you measure and get the holes straight - I've seen screws with no attachments where the owner said something like 'after I got it all set up, I realized I couldn't get my hatch open'. And make sure all your holes are above the waterline a few inches. Polyethylene (HDPE, specifically, which is what your kayak, the Cellblock, and so many other things are made of) is pretty good about forming around screws and not allowing water in, so long as you don't put excess stress on the fasteners/plastic holding them to wallow ther holes out. In my pedal kayak, I've now put holes for anchor trolleys on both sides as well as an 8" hole for a hatch. I was in some pretty decent wind this past Friday and got out the stake out pole and hooked to the trolley on the side. Wind got fairly stout and I happened to look back and it seemed like a fair amount of pull on the line and I was concerned it was putting a bit of stress on those screw mounted trolleys. Hopefully I was just overstressing. Quote
CountryboyinDC Posted March 30, 2020 Posted March 30, 2020 @dickenscpa, it's probably overkill, but that's why I went with the Yak Attack Leverloc HD. It has backing plates at the 'cam switch thing' and pulleys. I don't usually stay out on winds that I'd be worried about pulling loose ones without, but I can imagine them getting hung unloading the kayak itself or something like that. If yours are Leverlocs, they make a kit that just has a guide or 2 and backing plates. Quote
dickenscpa Posted March 30, 2020 Posted March 30, 2020 4 minutes ago, CountryboyinDC said: @dickenscpa, it's probably overkill, but that's why I went with the Yak Attack Leverloc HD. It has backing plates at the 'cam switch thing' and pulleys. I don't usually stay out on winds that I'd be worried about pulling loose ones without, but I can imagine them getting hung unloading the kayak itself or something like that. If yours are Leverlocs, they make a kit that just has a guide or 2 and backing plates. Mine are YakAttack Levor locks Quote
Smalls Posted March 30, 2020 Posted March 30, 2020 1 hour ago, dickenscpa said: Mine are YakAttack Levor locks The difference is the backing plates. it's like having a bolt holding things in, rather than a screw Quote
CountryboyinDC Posted March 31, 2020 Posted March 31, 2020 @dickenscpa, the backing plates are these. You'll need 3 of them per trolley - 1 for each pulley and one for the cam lever thing. I thought there was an upgrade kit, but that might have been discontinued. https://www.yakattack.us/AMS_1005_p/ams-1005.htm Installing these could be easy or tricky depending on how much access you have to your hull. On my pedal kayak, I have a hatch at the bow, under the seat, and at the stearn (I added that one), so it was easy. I've added some gear track with backing plate without that great hull access, and it was tedious. Quote
dickenscpa Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 I have a FeelFree Lure so the front and just front of center I have the backing plates. The back two I don’t since I don’t have access, just marine gooped screws. Quote
Smalls Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 4 hours ago, dickenscpa said: I have a FeelFree Lure so the front and just front of center I have the backing plates. The back two I don’t since I don’t have access, just marine gooped screws. 1 Quote
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.