newriverfisherman1953 Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 Well if it was mine, I’d either weld it or scrap it. I wouldn’t trust anything else with that many holes. Quote
moguy1973 Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 1 hour ago, bogfrog said: What about closing up all the holes as good as possible and coating the entire bottom with the spray on bed liner stuff? And also spray small patches over each hole on the inside as well? You would have to get it clean (really clean) before you try it. Bed liner isn't slick and it's rather heavy when applied correctly. Would definitely slow down any watercraft. I'm with WRB, a good welder could have all that prepped and welded up in about a day, if not half a day. Flap wheel would make it so you'd never know there were holes in it. Quote
bogfrog Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 4 minutes ago, moguy1973 said: Bed liner isn't slick and it's rather heavy when applied correctly. Would definitely slow down any watercraft. I'm with WRB, a good welder could have all that prepped and welded up in about a day, if not half a day. Flap wheel would make it so you'd never know there were holes in it. I have extensive experience in welding. That is the best bet. Youll need to weld a patch over every hole on the inside and fill against this backing from the outside to expect it to hold. Im thinking it will cost more than replacing the canoe. Hopefully not. Quote
Fishingmickey Posted April 1, 2020 Posted April 1, 2020 2 hours ago, WRB said: Good solution for 1 patch at $21. 28 patches is $588 plus tax and shipping. Tom Well Tom, since I didn't spell it out for him. I figured that you might be able to cut the patches into the proper size for the hole before applying them.....Getting thus four to maybe six patches out of the 3" x 6" or maybe even ten to twenty patches out of the 9" x 12" . It's good Tom! I wasn't thinking along your lines. Fishingmickey Oh, and the cutting would take place indoors out of the UV light. I'd almost be willing to bet I'd spend less then a hundred bucks on patch material. Quote
Super User WRB Posted April 2, 2020 Super User Posted April 2, 2020 4 hours ago, Fishingmickey said: Well Tom, since I didn't spell it out for him. I figured that you might be able to cut the patches into the proper size for the hole before applying them.....Getting thus four to maybe six patches out of the 3" x 6" or maybe even ten to twenty patches out of the 9" x 12" . It's good Tom! I wasn't thinking along your lines. Fishingmickey Oh, and the cutting would take place indoors out of the UV light. I'd almost be willing to bet I'd spend less then a hundred bucks on patch material. You might get 2 patches out of a 3" X 6" ( 1 1/2" X 6") depending on edge distances needed. Typical hatchet blade is about 4" long and the cuts appear ( 5 th post photo) to be at least 3" -4" long from the bow to the stren. Too many to be practical repair for a canoe 16' long. If some donates the patch material it's still a big project with questionable results. Such a shame to happen to a good family. Tom Quote
Super User king fisher Posted April 2, 2020 Super User Posted April 2, 2020 you can patch the holes with either Marine tex or Z Spar. Will still leak but can be usable. Depending on the type of aluminum in may be welded. Most likely it can't. I have tried many times to have riveted aluminum jon boats welded with not much luck. That is why they were riveted in the first place. Same goes for airplane floats, impossible to weld but can be patched with Z Spar. I know a guy that salvaged a jon boat that had been shot full of wholes, and had numerous ax marks too. The owner gave the boat to a native in Alaska for free. He fixed it with Marine Tex patches. I saw that boat on the river every summer for the next ten years. Quote
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