Super User Fishing Rhino Posted December 18, 2008 Super User Posted December 18, 2008 The bugaboo was that water would run from the paddle to my hand, then onto my lap with every stroke from both sides.That's what drip rings were made for: http://www.kayakfishingstuff.com/Merchant2/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=Can-DripRing&Category_Code=pdl They have drip rings. Maybe it was my paddling technique but hands or drip rings, when the paddle passed over me, the water ran from the drip rings as well, and ended up in my lap. I tried extending my arms forward, but that was awkward for me. I wish I could have made it work. It did propel the canoe faster. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted December 18, 2008 Super User Posted December 18, 2008 Not sure why the paddle passed over you. That doesn't happen when I paddle. ??? At any rate, a little water doesn't bother me. I end up getting wet no matter where I fish. Its part of the deal with watersports. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted December 18, 2008 Super User Posted December 18, 2008 Wait, I think I get it now. Its probably because either the paddle shaft itself is too short, or you're trying use a kayak paddle like a canoe paddle. Most kayak paddles are 220cm. Since I have a wide beam to deal with, my paddle is 240cm. When one blade is in the water, the should not be over you're head. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted December 18, 2008 Super User Posted December 18, 2008 Wait, I think I get it now. Its probably because either the paddle shaft itself is too short, or you're trying use a kayak paddle like a canoe paddle. Most kayak paddles are 220cm. Since I have a wide beam to deal with, my paddle is 240cm. When one blade is in the water, the should not be over you're head. OK, I did not make it clear. When one end of the paddle dips into the water, the other is higher than my head. Any water carried by the paddle then runs down the handle to the ring, then off the ring, into my lap. As I said, it may have been my technique in using the paddle. It wasn't a waterfall coming off the drip ring, but after a few dozen strokes, it was probably a couple of cups. This video shows water coming off the paddle onto the deck of a kayak. In my canoe. there is no deck, and that water ends up on my legs and lap. http://search.live.com/video/results.aspx?q=paddling+a+kayak&first=21&docid=221996056647&FORM=TVVR14 Quote
Super User Marty Posted December 19, 2008 Super User Posted December 19, 2008 Wood is great until you remove the protective finish, be it varnish, paint or polyurethane. Can't a protective finish be reapplied? Quote
Super User J Francho Posted December 19, 2008 Super User Posted December 19, 2008 Wait, I think I get it now. Its probably because either the paddle shaft itself is too short, or you're trying use a kayak paddle like a canoe paddle. Most kayak paddles are 220cm. Since I have a wide beam to deal with, my paddle is 240cm. When one blade is in the water, the should not be over you're head. OK, I did not make it clear. When one end of the paddle dips into the water, the other is higher than my head. Any water carried by the paddle then runs down the handle to the ring, then off the ring, into my lap. As I said, it may have been my technique in using the paddle. It wasn't a waterfall coming off the drip ring, but after a few dozen strokes, it was probably a couple of cups. This video shows water coming off the paddle onto the deck of a kayak. In my canoe. there is no deck, and that water ends up on my legs and lap. http://search.live.com/video/results.aspx?q=paddling+a+kayak&first=21&docid=221996056647&FORM=TVVR14 gotcha...yeah, the paddle he's using wouldn't make a mess. My paddle is a lot longer. He's in a SIK, and wearing a skirt on hull that is totally different than mine. I can't do that stuff w/ my kayak at all. My hull doesn't lean like that.Anyway, look at this goofball's rig, I'd just build something like LBH's jon. http://www.kayak-charters.com/html/signature_kayak.html Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted December 19, 2008 Super User Posted December 19, 2008 Anyway, look at this goofball's rig, I'd just build something like LBH's jon. http://www.kayak-charters.com/html/signature_kayak.html I have to admit, that's quite a rig. I don't know that I'd care to fish out of it however. I like 360 degrees of nothing but open space around me. The only snag on my rig is when I'm using the fish finder. The transducer is suction cupped to the side of the hull. I also got a kick out of the stabilizers. The "pontoons" are 7 X 14 Carlon buoys. When I was lobstering, we used them on "high flyers". http://store.vernondeon.com/index.php?opt=detail&ID=141&PID=2654 I do like the guys creativity however. Thanks for that link. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted December 19, 2008 Super User Posted December 19, 2008 Wood is great until you remove the protective finish, be it varnish, paint or polyurethane. Can't a protective finish be reapplied? Yes, it could. The problems are, I'm out almost everyday. As soon as you chew up a few spots, the wood fibers begin absorbing water. They'd have to dry, then be sanded and filled, and sanded again, then refinished. It's just not practical for the way I use the paddle. Plastic is not subject to absorbing water, even when it's dinged up. I'm partial to wood, because I've done a lot of woodworking, as a job and a hobby, plus home projects. It has its strengths and weaknesses. Using it to poke around in rocky water is not one of its strengths. By the way, do you know that pound for pound wood is stronger than just about any other material, including steel, aluminum and fiberglass. The problem is it has a lot more bulk, pound for pound. Prior to the development of carbon fiber and kevlar, many racing hulls were made up of thin layers of wood veneers. They were very light, had a lot of inherent stiffness, and very fast. In fact, many if not all PT Boats were made of wood. Two layers of wood planking literally formed a "plywood" hull. The design competition and seaworthiness trials for the PT boat was nicknamed "The Plywood Derby" and took place prior to the United States entering the war, in early 1941. The Navy Department held these competition trials around New York Harbor. This was a shakedown to see which company would be contracted to build the Navy PT boats. At the completion of the trials, the Navy was impressed with all three designs, with the Elco 77-footer coming out on top, followed by the Higgins 76-footer and Huckins 72-foot boat. Although Elco came in first, the Navy saw the merits of the other two boats and decided to offer all three companies contracts. Elco received the lion's share of the contract (385 boats by the end of the war), Higgins was second (199 boats by the end of the war) and Huckins with the smallest contract (18 boats by the end of the war, none of which would see combat, being assigned to home defense squadrons in the Panama Canal Zone, Miami, Florida and in Hawaii at Pearl Harbor). Huckins was a tiny yacht-building company in Jacksonville, Florida and was unable to build the number of boats needed by the Navy. Although they built a few 78-foot (24 m) boats of the PT-95 class, the 80-foot (24.4 m) Elco and the 78-foot (24 m) Higgins boats became the standard American motor torpedo boats of World War II. By war's end, more of the 80-foot Elco boats were built than any other type of motor torpedo boat (326 of their 80-foot boats were built). Elco also produced 49 of their 77-foot boats and ten 70-foot boats. [edit] Elco The Elco Naval Division boats were the largest in size of the three types of PT boats built for the US Navy used during World War II. The 80-foot (24.4 m) wooden-hulled craft were classified as boats in comparison with much larger steel-hulled destroyers, but were comparable in size to many wooden sailing ships in history. They had a 20 ft 8 in (6.3 m) beam. Though often said to be made of plywood, they were actually made of two diagonal layered 1-inch thick mahogany planks, with a glue-impregnated layer of canvas in between. Holding all this together were thousands of bronze screws and copper rivets. As an example of the strength of this type of construction, the hull of the PT-109 was strong enough that airtight compartments kept the forward hull afloat for hours even after being cut in half by a destroyer. Additionally, damage to the wooden hulls of these boats could be easily repaired at the front lines by base force personnel. http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/PT_boats Quote
ArcticCat500 Posted December 20, 2008 Author Posted December 20, 2008 guys thanks for all the help...I wont be pulling the trigger on a new ride til the wearhter warms, but Fishing Rhino I may seek your expertise on that rod rack.... Quote
Super User J Francho Posted December 20, 2008 Super User Posted December 20, 2008 Anyway, look at this goofball's rig, I'd just build something like LBH's jon.http://www.kayak-charters.com/html/signature_kayak.html I have to admit, that's quite a rig. I don't know that I'd care to fish out of it however. I like 360 degrees of nothing but open space around me. The only snag on my rig is when I'm using the fish finder. The transducer is suction cupped to the side of the hull. I also got a kick out of the stabilizers. The "pontoons" are 7 X 14 Carlon buoys. When I was lobstering, we used them on "high flyers". http://store.vernondeon.com/index.php?opt=detail&ID=141&PID=2654 I do like the guys creativity however. Thanks for that link. I think that rig is ridiculous, LOL. He's one of those insane, creative, geniuses. I have occasionally snagged my own rods in the holders behind me. I've gotten used to them being there now. I use a thru-hull transducer for my unit. Its very convenient. You can see it installed in the scupper hole here: Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted December 21, 2008 Super User Posted December 21, 2008 guys thanks for all the help...I wont be pulling the trigger on a new ride til the wearhter warms, but Fishing Rhino I may seek your expertise on that rod rack.... Anytime. I'm not that far from you, and I'm semi retired. In Westport, right on the RI border in southeastern Mass. If you want to get a closeup look at it, or a bit of help, I'll be more than glad to assist in anyway I can. I've got a good sized garage/shop, 34 X 34, and all the light tools needed to handle small and medium sized projects. When you're ready, you can email through my profile on the forum. Quote
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