Michigander Posted February 3, 2020 Posted February 3, 2020 Is anyone integrating 3D printing into their tackle making? I've seen some STL files for swimbaits, cranks, and other hard body lures that I might try out. Also, I plan to design and print some injection molds for soft plastics. I'm trying to think of some other neat ideas to make... Have any?
cadman Posted February 3, 2020 Posted February 3, 2020 Yes, I just bought a 3d printer, and I am currently making parts for my boat. I will be making my own crankbaits as soon as I have some time to design them. I use Solidworks for modeling, then make my STL files, then Cura as a slicer for my 3d printer. It is a great feeling to make your own parts, however very time consuming, but satisfying.
Michigander Posted February 4, 2020 Author Posted February 4, 2020 3 minutes ago, cadman said: Yes, I just bought a 3d printer, and I am currently making parts for my boat. I will be making my own crankbaits as soon as I have some time to design them. I use Solidworks for modeling, then make my STL files, then Cura as a slicer for my 3d printer. It is a great feeling to make your own parts, however very time consuming, but satisfying. I have a resin printer so my build plate is limited for boat parts until I get an FDM. I've been trying to learn Blender but that software is beast mode and the progress has been slower than I would prefer, Meshmixer is coming more quickly to me. Haven't tried Solidworks yet. I have been using Chitubox for slicing and it works pretty well. Supporting interior geometry is a pain though. Which printer did you get?
cadman Posted February 4, 2020 Posted February 4, 2020 I got a Creality Ender 3 Pro. Printing crankbaits won't be an issue for me. The biggest issue is to get the weight placed correctly in the cranbait, so the bait hunts. My final goal is to make flexible frogs out of flexible filament. But that is a different beat to tackle. I'm pretty stoked about all of this. Printed some parts for around the house that broke.
Michigander Posted February 4, 2020 Author Posted February 4, 2020 I could print a hard body about 7-8 inches long if I wanted to angle it so no worries there, but I can't print a new dashboard for my console without it being like 15 pieces. My Elegoo Mars is a good machine though so far. Using flexible filament for a frog is a great idea! You could create a whole modular frog system with different leg, head, and rattle chamber attachments. You could print in metal and make some really rad jigging spoons and blade baits too. I'm going to get some of the high temp resin for soft plastics. BioSpawn started their company using 3D printed prototypes and I like their design workflow.
cadman Posted February 4, 2020 Posted February 4, 2020 Yes, the ideas and possibilities are endless. on anything you want to make. Only thing I need is more hours in a day.
Michigander Posted February 4, 2020 Author Posted February 4, 2020 1 minute ago, cadman said: Only thing I need is more hours in a day. Isn't that the truth.
Tony johnson Posted February 27, 2020 Posted February 27, 2020 No 3d printing but been draining a bait in cad and will cut it at work on a mill or cnc router
Michigander Posted February 27, 2020 Author Posted February 27, 2020 1 hour ago, Tony johnson said: No 3d printing but been draining a bait in cad and will cut it at work on a mill or cnc router Nice!
Loochy88 Posted March 6, 2020 Posted March 6, 2020 Soft plastics! I have a number of injection mold files I've designed. Trickworms, senkos, grubs, ribbon tails, frog, beaver style bait, ned, and probably a few i cant think of right now. You have to print in PETG. PLA does not have the temperature resistance. Because of the layer lines, it can be difficult extracting the baits, so you need to use some sort of mold release. I used vegetable oil. You lose some details because of this when compared to aluminum, or composite molds. It is fun though, designing your own lures and seeing them come to life. Ive found that buying aluminum molds is worth it though, if you're willing to put up the money. The detail is just much better, and many molds are very affordable. I have several do-it molds now, and some cheap amazon composite molds as well. Those just shoot much better. Printed a whopper plopper too. It worked pretty well. I use my printer for other fishing related things too. Right now I'm printing a handle for a diy stake out pole. They're very useful.
nighthawk25 Posted March 9, 2020 Posted March 9, 2020 On 2/3/2020 at 6:52 PM, cadman said: Yes, I just bought a 3d printer, and I am currently making parts for my boat. I will be making my own crankbaits as soon as I have some time to design them. I use Solidworks for modeling, then make my STL files, then Cura as a slicer for my 3d printer. It is a great feeling to make your own parts, however very time consuming, but satisfying. What material are you using for the crankbaits? I'm working on some as well but not sure if I should use ABS over PLA.
cadman Posted March 9, 2020 Posted March 9, 2020 5 hours ago, nighthawk25 said: What material are you using for the crankbaits? I'm working on some as well but not sure if I should use ABS over PLA. I'm using PLA. Just be careful with ABS, although it is very good for heat resistance, it is toxic to breathe when in the molten state. I am currently sticking with PLA , if I decide to go with ABS, I will probably either do this in the garage or somehow vent out. Be safe
wisconsin heat Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 My brother in law has printed a few baits that we have played around with. It can be difficult to get the right sink rate of the lures, we've had some poppers and other topwaters end up sinking. I think some easy and pretty cool items would be winding checks or other detailing parts for rod building. Also a punch hub- a skirt collar to tie on a punch skirt for flipping. BOSS makes some but a 5 pack costs about 5 bucks, I imagine that you can print them for almost nothing at all and it is a simple enough design that I think it would work
Michigander Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 On 3/6/2020 at 3:11 PM, Loochy88 said: Soft plastics! I have a number of injection mold files I've designed. Trickworms, senkos, grubs, ribbon tails, frog, beaver style bait, ned, and probably a few i cant think of right now. You have to print in PETG. PLA does not have the temperature resistance. Because of the layer lines, it can be difficult extracting the baits, so you need to use some sort of mold release. I used vegetable oil. You lose some details because of this when compared to aluminum, or composite molds. It is fun though, designing your own lures and seeing them come to life. Ive found that buying aluminum molds is worth it though, if you're willing to put up the money. The detail is just much better, and many molds are very affordable. I have several do-it molds now, and some cheap amazon composite molds as well. Those just shoot much better. Printed a whopper plopper too. It worked pretty well. I use my printer for other fishing related things too. Right now I'm printing a handle for a diy stake out pole. They're very useful. I have a resin printer so the layer lines are basically non-existent at 0.04 layer height. Took a while to find a resin that would handle the heat of the plastic injection but I found one. Excited to give it a shot this summer. 1 minute ago, wisconsin heat said: My brother in law has printed a few baits that we have played around with. It can be difficult to get the right sink rate of the lures, we've had some poppers and other topwaters end up sinking. I think some easy and pretty cool items would be winding checks or other detailing parts for rod building. Also a punch hub- a skirt collar to tie on a punch skirt for flipping. BOSS makes some but a 5 pack costs about 5 bucks, I imagine that you can print them for almost nothing at all and it is a simple enough design that I think it would work Printing a punch hub is genius! I'm totally doing that.
wisconsin heat Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 8 minutes ago, Michigander said: I have a resin printer so the layer lines are basically non-existent at 0.04 layer height. Took a while to find a resin that would handle the heat of the plastic injection but I found one. Excited to give it a shot this summer. Printing a punch hub is genius! I'm totally doing that. If you find or make a design please feel to pass it along! ?
Michigander Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 10 minutes ago, wisconsin heat said: If you find or make a design please feel to pass it along! ? I'm going to start learning 3D design next month so hopefully I can have some working prototypes by July. I'll certainly share. ? 1
nighthawk25 Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 13 hours ago, cadman said: I'm using PLA. Just be careful with ABS, although it is very good for heat resistance, it is toxic to breathe when in the molten state. I am currently sticking with PLA , if I decide to go with ABS, I will probably either do this in the garage or somehow vent out. Be safe Yes, I've used PLA, ABS, and nylon. ABS is a pain to work with IMO. Nylon wasn't too bad but it's more expensive and still not as easy as PLA.
cadman Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 I'm using my 3d printer for all kind of cool items for the boat. Pedestal seat plugs, clips to hang buoys on my boat, cup holders, misc. clips and gadgets etc. There are many many useful things you can make with a 3d printer. I am just curious how these parts will endure a hot sun in the middle of summer. I also want to screw around making crankbaits to see how they work. I can use ball bearing for a ballast or lead since I pour my own jigs. My main goal is to make jigs out of PLA (ABS ,Nylon) to see how they last from constant casting. I'm thinking the PLA will eventually crack. Printing part is the easiest. Design is what takes time. I am still new at 3d printing, so I will do a lot of trial and error. The designing is no problem for me. I just need more hours in a day. Any moderators hear can answer this question. Can I post pics of jigs/crankbaits I make? I sell jigs for a hobby, so I don't want anyone thinking that I am trying to sell them here.
Michigander Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 Yeah, you can post your pictures as long as it isn't an advertisement as far as I know. Always like seeing what people are making.
Loochy88 Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 19 hours ago, cadman said: I'm using PLA. Just be careful with ABS, although it is very good for heat resistance, it is toxic to breathe when in the molten state. I am currently sticking with PLA , if I decide to go with ABS, I will probably either do this in the garage or somehow vent out. Be safe Try PETG. If your printer can print ABS, you can do PETG. It has many of the benefits of ABS without being so toxic. 5 hours ago, Michigander said: Yeah, you can post your pictures as long as it isn't an advertisement as far as I know. Always like seeing what people are making. Here are some examples of the molds I've designed/printed and am currently shooting. 3
Michigander Posted March 10, 2020 Author Posted March 10, 2020 Oh yeah! What software are you using and do you recommend it for mold design?
Loochy88 Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 Just now, Michigander said: Oh yeah! What software are you using and do you recommend it for mold design? I use Tinkercad. I'm no pro at this, and I have found that to be the easiest to learn.
cadman Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 4 hours ago, Loochy88 said: Try PETG. If your printer can print ABS, you can do PETG. It has many of the benefits of ABS without being so toxic. Here are some examples of the molds I've designed/printed and am currently shooting. Loochy, How hot is the plastic you are injecting. I am curious as I would like to fill the PLA/ ABS/PETG with lead. However I think the lead will melt the plastic mold. Lead melts at around 600 degrees Fahrenheit.
Loochy88 Posted March 10, 2020 Posted March 10, 2020 2 hours ago, cadman said: Loochy, How hot is the plastic you are injecting. I am curious as I would like to fill the PLA/ ABS/PETG with lead. However I think the lead will melt the plastic mold. Lead melts at around 600 degrees Fahrenheit. Plastisol shoots @ 350 degrees F. PETG can withstand that, however the printing/melting temperature for PETG is around 240 C (464F). It wouldnt work unfortunately.
cadman Posted March 11, 2020 Posted March 11, 2020 51 minutes ago, Loochy88 said: Plastisol shoots @ 350 degrees F. PETG can withstand that, however the printing/melting temperature for PETG is around 240 C (464F). It wouldnt work unfortunately. Thank You for the info.?
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