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Posted

As of 8 A.M. my epoxy was still sticky to the touch, and that was the 30 hour mark for being on the rod dryer.  I am certain I mixed resin and hardener to a 50:50 ratio.  The room the rod was drying in was probably 55-60 degrees, I had no idea ambient air temperature would influence things that greatly.

 

Do I have any hope of my epoxy drying correctly at this point or do I need to strip everything down and start fresh? 

Posted

Put another thin coat of epoxy over the top, make sure it's absolutely the correct 50:50 mix and that it's really thoroughly mixed. Really thoroughly. It will probably cure the lower layer and save you stripping everything. If not you're no worse off.

  • Like 2
Posted
10 minutes ago, Tim Kelly said:

Put another thin coat of epoxy over the top, make sure it's absolutely the correct 50:50 mix and that it's really thoroughly mixed. Really thoroughly. It will probably cure the lower layer and save you stripping everything. If not you're no worse off.

Thanks, Tim.  We're departing for GA tomorrow so I don't think I have enough time for fresh epoxy to dry.  I'll keep this in mind in case it ever happens again.

 

Good old 16 hour drive cutting into my plans.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Your problem is likely the temperature. Epoxy will cure to a non-sticky state in about 24 hours at 72°F. For every ten degree difference, the cure time changes by a factor of 2. Ten degrees warmer, cure in half the time. Ten degrees colder, cure in twice the time. 10° C = 18°F.  You are very close to that

  • Like 2
Posted
26 minutes ago, .ghoti. said:

Your problem is likely the temperature. Epoxy will cure to a non-sticky state in about 24 hours at 72°F. For every ten degree difference, the cure time changes by a factor of 2. Ten degrees warmer, cure in half the time. Ten degrees colder, cure in twice the time. 10° C = 18°F.  You are very close to that

That's wonderful to hear, thanks, @.ghoti.!

Posted

40 hours on at this point and at the last slight touch, no epoxy came off with my touch.

 

She's drying.  :)

  • Super User
Posted

Keep in mind epoxy does not dry. It cures via an exothermic chemical reaction. Thus it’s reaction to temperature changes. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/1/2020 at 5:37 PM, Hook2Jaw said:

40 hours on at this point and at the last slight touch, no epoxy came off with my touch.

 

She's drying.  :)

Just a tip, keep your leftover epoxy on your plate or whatever, so you can touch that to test it rather than touching one of your guide wraps.

Posted

Probably not related. When I made my first crankbait last year it came out so much better than I anticipated. I measured the epoxy to the 10th of a gram on the scale I bought for it according to how some people explained it online.

 

It just didn't cure.... days later... to this day a few month later it's still tacky. The reason... in tiny letters on the bottom of the label it says "mix 1:1 by volume"...

 

That's my sad story. All my subsequent baits are doing well.

  • Super User
Posted

A quick shot with a heat gun might get the curing process going.  I have done that with other applications satisfactorily.

Posted

It never fully dried.  I ended up removing every single guide, cleaning them, packing everything up and driving back to Georgia from Texas.

 

Man, seeing this thread is depressing.  I am now scared to attempt it again.  My wraps were decent, my guides were aligned well, and I had a good looking rod to call my own.

 

Or not.  Screw epoxy.

Posted

You could always put a few coats of varnish on the wraps, like we used to when I was a kid. It cracks and discolours eventually, but serves it's purpose, and varnishes are probably more stable now than the were 40 years ago.

Posted
28 minutes ago, Tim Kelly said:

You could always put a few coats of varnish on the wraps, like we used to when I was a kid. It cracks and discolours eventually, but serves it's purpose, and varnishes are probably more stable now than the were 40 years ago.

Thanks, Tim.  I'm going to wrap her up again this weekend and try the epoxy again.  I'd rather do it and it last than have it crack and discolor.

Posted

If I'm not too late, I'd like to know what finish was used. I cure finish at 85-90F while on the dryer. Works great.

Posted

@Lyman X, it was the stuff that Mudhole sends.  I think it's called ProKote.  I don't have the ability to dry it at 85-90 but I believe on this next go I'm gonna crank the house temperature to 75.

Posted

Just get an inexpensive portable heater, 1500 watts, or so to augment your home heat, you can tent your rod with a sheet, or something non fuzzy and keep it even warmer.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Hook2Jaw said:

It was the stuff that Mudhole sends.  I think it's called ProKote.

I never liked ProKote. It has a long pot life but it does not cure hard. I prefer Threadmaster Lite. TM Lite's pot life is not as long as ProKote, but it cures almost as hard as regular TM.

Posted

Andy Dear, the fellow that developed Threadmaster has developed a new finish, reportedly near impossible to keep an air bubble in, Gen 4 I believe is the name, out real soon.

Posted

Spoonplugger, yeah the new thread finish will have better bubble release.
I'm intrigued by the blue color added to the resin that will disappear once

the resin and hardener are thoroughly mixed.

 

I forgot to add last year Mudhole purchased RodDancer, the company

that owned TM.

Posted

Not going to lie guys, this post delayed my build. Why I ended up doing the kayak build first. That is done and I am bored want to build 2 rods before the season starts. I live in Mass in the woods, gets no direct sunlight, and  rarely gets above 65 in my house. 

 

I have a plan. As stated above, some form of hood. I have a tiny space heater, thinking about building a long narrow box 7 feet long X 10" X 10", raise it so the dryer can spin inside it, stick the space heater in the other end. Oh, and keep an eye on it so I don't burn my house down. 

Posted

Ditch the Pro-Cote, keep it warm. Good suggestions above. And Bass Junkie, I'd rethink the space heater deal, It only has to get up to 80 - 90F!

  • Thanks 1
  • 5 weeks later...
Posted
On 1/23/2020 at 7:20 PM, Lyman X said:

Ditch the Pro-Cote, keep it warm. Good suggestions above. And Bass Junkie, I'd rethink the space heater deal, It only has to get up to 80 - 90F!

When I first read this a month ago, I'm thinking, 80-90 degrees? Is this guy nuts? I can't get my house up 80 degrees. Then I read the instructions on the flex coat. It all makes sense now. Thanks.

  • Super User
Posted
On 1/21/2020 at 3:25 PM, Hook2Jaw said:

It never fully dried.

Then you did not in fact put a 50-50 mix onto the wraps.  One possible cause of this is, of course, doubling one component by mistake, or not mixing thoroughly enough, (many mix for 3 minutes), but also by taking the epoxy from the edge of the mix where it's most likely not to actually be mixed well enough.  I'm presuming you are using an epoxy that calls for 50-50 by volume AND using syringes.  Some are specified by weight.  Rarely.  If you mix epoxy correctly, it will not fail to cure.

Posted

The 3 most CRUCIAL things in glassing with epoxy resin are: 1 - It needs to be mixed at the EXACT ratio of resin to hardener called for. 2 - It needs to be mixed as THOROUGHLY as possible. 3 - It needs to be cured within its proper temperature range.  Any deviation from these 3 things and trouble is on the horizon.

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