Boat Battery Help

[OneCast Fishing]

I recently installed some new electronics on my Triton 189 TRX and all are wired to my cranking battery.  I have Helix 7 (.9 amps), x 2 Helix 10 (2.4 amp each), Garmin Echo Map Ultra 126 (3.3 amp) and Livescope System (1.75 amp).  I also have a one 10 foot power pole, and the typical other systems that require electricity such as live well, lights, and pumps.  Obviously, my current battery (Interstate Marine Cranking 27M-XHD) isn't cutting it and drains pretty fast.  I can't get a full day of fishing out of it.   What should I do?  Is there a large battery that I could go with to meet my needs?  Do I need a second battery to only run the electronics?  Do I get a second battery and a switch where I could go between the two if one dies?   Thanks in advance for the input. 

[MN Fisher]

Get a Deep Cycle battery - large capacity - and put your TM, graphs, powerpole and livescope on that. Cranking batteries aren't designed for the constant drain that those items put on them.

[A-Jay]

41 minutes ago, OneCast Fishing said:

I recently installed some new electronics on my Triton 189 TRX and all are wired to my cranking battery.  I have Helix 7 (.9 amps), x 2 Helix 10 (2.4 amp each), Garmin Echo Map Ultra 126 (3.3 amp) and Livescope System (1.75 amp).  I also have a one 10 foot power pole, and the typical other systems that require electricity such as live well, lights, and pumps.  Obviously, my current battery (Interstate Marine Cranking 27M-XHD) isn't cutting it and drains pretty fast.  I can't get a full day of fishing out of it.   What should I do?  Is there a large battery that I could go with to meet my needs?  Do I need a second battery to only run the electronics?  Do I get a second battery and a switch where I could go between the two if one dies?   Thanks in advance for the input. 

Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~

 Perhaps consider Optima Blue tops - Dual purpose batteries.

I run 31M's and they handle everything I need - Deep cycles & cranking needs.

Also, I highly recommend including your cranking battery in your on board charger set up.

https://www.optimabatteries.com/en-us/bluetop-dual-purpose-deep-cycle-and-starting

https://www.deepcyclemarinebattery.com/reviews/optima-d34m-d27m-d31m-bluetop-dual-purpose-marine-batteries.html

A-Jay

[WRB]

Whatever battery you select use a marine battery.

Cranking batteries are designed to be charged randomly as needed by the OB engines charging system and retains reserve amps for starting the engine. Apparently your engine alternator isn't running enough to maintain the cranking battery.

Dual purpose cranking/deep cycle GP 31 is an option.

Larger size gr 29 cranking battery is another option.

A separate house deep cycle battery is option along with a 50 amp battery switch.

Your TRX 189 should have space for whatever you choose.

Tom

 

[MN Fisher]

48 minutes ago, OneCast Fishing said:

I have Helix 7 (.9 amps), x 2 Helix 10 (2.4 amp each), Garmin Echo Map Ultra 126 (3.3 amp) and Livescope System (1.75 amp). 

Just going off this, you're running 10.75 amps - so you need 11amp-hours from either the dual purpose or the deep-cycle for every hour on the water. So a battery rated for 75AH would last you just under 7 hours powering those systems. Choose your capacity based on that.

[Tennessee Boy]

What’s happening?   After several hours on the water are you unable to start the motor or are you having problems with your electronics?

[MickD]

46 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

Also, I highly recommend including your cranking battery in your on board charger set up.

This is a big deal especially if you haven't taken all the other stuff off your starting battery.  with a smart charger where you store your boat you can plug it in when it's there and forget about it.  With significant extra drains on a starting motor your engine cannot keep up, especially if you're not using it a lot on the water. 

 

I also have an emergency jump starter, about the size of a hard bound dictionary, which I keep on board just in case.  It will also start the tow vehicle if necessary, like when I left the headlamps on once.  It cost about $75 and is cheap insurance against dead batteries.

Another tip you may not be taking advantage of is that your depth finders have a standby feature (which I use when I am stationary and don't need the info) which saves juice yet starts the finder back up in the same situation you were in when you commanded standby.  With three depth finders you may be able to have two on standby some of the time.

[OneCast Fishing]

I appreciate all the quick replies.  I do have a battery charger for the existing marine cranking battery.  As for the issues, after about 4-5 hours the electronics give me a low voltage warning and the bow helix will shut off.  The motor would still start but I was reading under 10.5 volts.  

 

I had been looking at the Optima.  Sounds like to be safe I should go with a separate battery for the electronics.  Adds a little weight but better than having dead batteries out on the water.   Thanks for the all the input.  

[Tennessee Boy]

19 minutes ago, OneCast Fishing said:

I appreciate all the quick replies.  I do have a battery charger for the existing marine cranking battery.  As for the issues, after about 4-5 hours the electronics give me a low voltage warning and the bow helix will shut off.  The motor would still start but I was reading under 10.5 volts.  

 

I had been looking at the Optima.  Sounds like to be safe I should go with a separate battery for the electronics.  Adds a little weight but better than having dead batteries out on the water.   Thanks for the all the input.  

I have the same battery as you and like you I have a lot of stuff running off of it.  I don’t have room for an extra battery.   When the battery was new I could fish 12 hours on it no problem.  As it’s aged,  the voltage has dropped a little and some of my electronics don’t like it.  I have two Solix and they are very sensitive to low voltage.  The bow is going to have slightly lower voltage due to the voltage drop in the longer wires.  That’s probably why you’re bow unit is shutting down first.  Bigger wiring can help with this.  The easy fix is another battery if you’ve got the space for it.

[tcbass]

1st:  Get separate batteries for starting and accessories. 

 

2nd:  Get a small battery jumper or jumper cables in case your starter dies on the lake or won't start at the landing. 

 

3rd: I switched to sealed batteries and will never go back. 

 

I've had batteries flip and put acid all over my boat and it sucks. 

 

Sealed batteries cost me the same amount so why wouldn't I. Most times you'll pay a little more but well worth it. 

[Jig Man]

There is only one battery that I know of that has a chance to do what you are needing.  It is the North Star X2.  You can get them at Batteries + Bulbs under their label.  Do not think that the Optima blue top will work because it won’t.  I know from experience.  That was $300 not well spent.

[A-Jay]

31 minutes ago, Jig Man said:

  Do not think that the Optima blue top will work because it won’t.  I know from experience.  That was $300 not well spent.

If you'd care to share, I'd be interested to learn what your particular failure was or was attributed to ? 

 

My experience has been different.

I'm actually running four of these batteries which may be due for replacement in a few years.

Perhaps I may go a different way. 

 

  But since 2016, I have been running two helix 10's, two 12 ft Talons, 360 imaging, Live well pumps & aerator, interior & navigation lights, (basically everything Except The 112 Fortrex) AND starting a 200 hp V8 Pro XS

all with ONE Optima Blue Top 31M.

The other three power the Minn Kota.

 Maybe I've just been lucky but I've encountered Zero problems. 

This battery is connected to my on board charging system and gets top off after every trip, regardless of what it gets from the Outboard's  85-amp (1071 Watt) Alternator.

Thanks in advance

A-Jay