nebass Posted September 25, 2008 Posted September 25, 2008 Hey LBH, Need your help with my buddy's aluminum Bass Tracker leaking like a siv! How do we seal the bottom? Bass Tracker says to scrap it, what a joke! PM me if have to. Anyone else with ideas on how to take care of this please let me know! Please no one move this post. Thanks Quote
BassResource.com Administrator Glenn Posted September 25, 2008 BassResource.com Administrator Posted September 25, 2008 Click the search link above and do a search for "Sikaflex" on these forums. You'll find a bunch of ideas. Be sure to select "all posts" first! Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted September 25, 2008 Super User Posted September 25, 2008 Leaking like a sieve? Is it leaking because it has been worn away in places, or because of electrolysis or galvanic action which have eroded the metal. If it's either of the last two, Bass Tracker might be right. The hull would be structurally compromised, and leaking would be the least of the problems. Aluminum can become porous from electrolysis and/or galvanic action. While some products may stop the leaking, they will not restore its structural integrity. Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted September 25, 2008 Posted September 25, 2008 yes, please give a better description of the exact condition of the metal. Consider it's integrity during evaluation. Pictures would be a HUGE plus. If it happens to be rivet issues or areas of particular wear that are repairable, we'll see what we can do. Pics first though Also, what are your intentions for the boat, elec motor only?.....gas motor (hp?) small lake? Big water? etc Quote
ArcticCat500 Posted September 25, 2008 Posted September 25, 2008 Sikaflex is an ashesive tht comes ina tube, yea its good but it isnt Fasco's Steelflex X9, heres a link. ask for Gerry he can help you with what your needs are. http://www.fascoepoxies.com/ this stuff works...no doubt Quote
Certified Public Angler Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 My boat is leaking a lot too...I'm thinking about rolling some bedliner on the bottom of it. It is a sears gamefisher and the aluminum is very thin, that coupled with not having a trailer and the main ramp I use is gravel rocks doesn't help much. I end up using my bailer once an hour to scoop out 3-4 inches of water in the back. Any suggestions on how to go about doing that LBH? Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 First thing I would do is make a set of rollers for where you launch. Caster wheels at lowes are like a buck each. Line up 4 or 5 on a piece of 2x6. Works like a charm. Secondly, same as above, if you could post a pic, especially of the bad spots, so we know what we are dealing with. Quote
Super User Fishing Rhino Posted September 26, 2008 Super User Posted September 26, 2008 I'm not familiar with some of the other products mentioned for sealing leaks. I am familiar with this. It has been around for decades and works really well. The others may be as good or better. In any case, it's another option for you to consider. I think the current price is about 85 per gallon, but don't hold me to it. http://www.jamestowndistributors.com/userportal/show_product.do?pid=2091&engine=adwords!6456&keyword=gluvit This is the website of the company that makes it. http://www.marinetex.com/ Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 That used to be the cure-all but has since been replaced by 3m 5200 for the most part. Both are more of a band aid than a cure but it's still mandatory to have one on board at all times as they can be applied wet to stop a leak on the spot till you can get in and make a proper repair. Quote
JKay Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 The Gluvit product that Fishing Rhino suggests is great stuff. I've used it on several of my boats and can't say enough about it. It came recommended to me a number of years ago by my uncle. He has had a high end boat building and repair business out on Long Island for maybe 35 years, and has been a steady customer of this product for a long time. It's proven stuff with a long track record Quote
zellamander Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 If any of you guys with Aluminum boats need and welding done to the boats and are close enough to south east kansas, Pittsburg ks, then I'll weld it for you. I have the shop and all the tools. I'm certified as well. Just pay for the metal i put on it, i won't charge labor. Quote
done Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 Any chance you'd consider moving to Gaston county NC? LOL. I had to go 40 miles to find someone who'd weld my Jon boat. Heck with the price of gas it would have almost been cheaper to go to school for it and weld it myself. Quote
zellamander Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 Haha, I understand that. What did he charge to weld it? My school was pretty expensive. $13,000 for 7 months. Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted September 26, 2008 Posted September 26, 2008 Once you realize how many "good" welders aren't even willing to touch thin aluminum, the price will be moot. Pay it and add a case of beer on the side in case you ever need to call on him again. Nice offer Zellamander Quote
done Posted September 27, 2008 Posted September 27, 2008 It actually cost me $100 for the weld but that was because while I had it in there, I asked him to put in a couple reinforcements. Not much but enough. It cost like $30 in gas round trip. I swear, if you had a welder who knew how to do jon boats he could make some money in Gastonia. If he sold marine paint, and some other things, he wuld do well. Not a fancy BP type store, but a good old fashioned hole in the wall type neighborhood shop would do well. We have a BP about 30 miles from here. Quote
Certified Public Angler Posted September 29, 2008 Posted September 29, 2008 First thing I would do is make a set of rollers for where you launch. Caster wheels at lowes are like a buck each. Line up 4 or 5 on a piece of 2x6. Works like a charm.Secondly, same as above, if you could post a pic, especially of the bad spots, so we know what we are dealing with. Well there are a couple small holes near the stern but I think most of the water comes in through rivets beneath the deck. I don't think you could see anything from a picture. I would like to just but a bed liner on the bottom, but my question is what brand to use/how much to buy to cover a flat-bottom 12 ft? Quote
=Matt 5.0= Posted October 1, 2008 Posted October 1, 2008 Once you realize how many "good" welders aren't even willing to touch thin aluminum, the price will be moot. Pay it and add a case of beer on the side in case you ever need to call on him again. Especially when the aluminum is caked in JB weld, and all sorts of other adhesives! ;) 8-) Quote
Super User SPEEDBEAD. Posted October 1, 2008 Super User Posted October 1, 2008 First thing I would do is make a set of rollers for where you launch. Caster wheels at lowes are like a buck each. Line up 4 or 5 on a piece of 2x6. Works like a charm.Secondly, same as above, if you could post a pic, especially of the bad spots, so we know what we are dealing with. Seen it in action and this system works like a charm. Even skinny little mohawked folks can launch the boat by themselves Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted October 2, 2008 Posted October 2, 2008 First thing I would do is make a set of rollers for where you launch. Caster wheels at lowes are like a buck each. Line up 4 or 5 on a piece of 2x6. Works like a charm.Secondly, same as above, if you could post a pic, especially of the bad spots, so we know what we are dealing with. Seen it in action and this system works like a charm. Even skinny little mohawked folks can launch the boat by themselves Too smart for that, that's why I bring guys like you!! ;D Rose- for the rivets, put the boat on the trailer, or on saw horses,...dry. Place hose insdide and watch underneath. Have a marking crayon ready,circle the leakers Replace leakers with a tapered head bolt from the bottom, washer and nut inside, 3m 5200 adhesive/sealant on the threads. Works like a charm. The bedliner on mine didn't hold up. was prepped properly. Quote
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