Lure Rating Question

[t_bone_713]

It's a simple one but a good winter discussion for beginners looking forward to next spring that I can't find a specific answer to.

 

Do you pay attention to the lure rating of your rods? If so how closely? Why or why not?

 

If a rod is rated for 1/4 oz would you throw a 1/8 (bullet weight) T Rig on it? Etc.

 

Thank you for your time!

[Mobasser]

I throw 1/8 oz on a rod rated 1/4 to 3/4 all the time. The only thing I would watch are not overloading the rod on the heavy end of the rating. Not by too much

[Scott F]

2 hours ago, t_bone_713 said:

It's a simple one but a good winter discussion for beginners looking forward to next spring that I can't find a specific answer to.

 

Do you pay attention to the lure rating of your rods? If so how closely? Why or why not?

 

If a rod is rated for 1/4 oz would you throw a 1/8 (bullet weight) T Rig on it? Etc.

 

Thank you for your time!

You throwing a bullet weight all by itself? Add the weight of a hook and worm and you are probably at 1/4 oz. I always pay attention to the lure ratings. If the entire lure is much less than the low end rating, you won’t get much distance on the cast. Too heavy, and you might damage the rod. Just be sure to consider the entire weigh of the lure. 

[t_bone_713]

8 minutes ago, Scott F said:

You throwing a bullet weight all by itself? Add the weight of a hook and worm and you are probably at 1/4 oz. I always pay attention to the lure ratings. If the entire lure is much less than the low end rating, you won’t get much distance on the cast. Too heavy, and you might damage the rod. Just be sure to consider the entire weigh of the lure. 

The reason I ask is because I am going to learn myself by teaching someone brand new this spring and I want 100% accuracy. Your statement was my thought process exactly but now I am curious to see how much my traditional T-Rig actually weighs!! (1/8oz, 4/0 EWG Gamakatsu, and a soft plastic).

[rtwvumtneer6]

I prefer the word "suggestion"

 

You can certainly go as light as you want, given you can manage your line.  I.e. I probably wouldn't throw a KVD 1.0 on my frog rod.

 

Flip side of that, I pitch a 1oz tungsten weight + a superline hook + a rage bug on a rod "rated" 3/8-1oz but I wouldn't use that same rod to try and sling that much weight half way across the lake.  

 

Generally speaking a rod will perform at it's best somewhere in the middle of those numbers, but going outside of them (within reason) can work, if it makes sense for the application.

[STBen1215]

1 hour ago, rtwvumtneer6 said:

I prefer the word "suggestion"

 

You can certainly go as light as you want, given you can manage your line.  I.e. I probably wouldn't throw a KVD 1.0 on my frog rod.

 

Flip side of that, I pitch a 1oz tungsten weight + a superline hook + a rage bug on a rod "rated" 3/8-1oz but I wouldn't use that same rod to try and sling that much weight half way across the lake.  

 

Generally speaking a rod will perform at it's best somewhere in the middle of those numbers, but going outside of them (within reason) can work, if it makes sense for the application.

Exactly what I see it as. It's a general guideline or a manufacturers suggestion. 

[Hammer 4]

3 hours ago, rtwvumtneer6 said:

I prefer the word "suggestion"

 

You can certainly go as light as you want, given you can manage your line.  I.e. I probably wouldn't throw a KVD 1.0 on my frog rod.

 

Flip side of that, I pitch a 1oz tungsten weight + a superline hook + a rage bug on a rod "rated" 3/8-1oz but I wouldn't use that same rod to try and sling that much weight half way across the lake.  

 

Generally speaking a rod will perform at it's best somewhere in the middle of those numbers, but going outside of them (within reason) can work, if it makes sense for the application.

 

This^^^ I pay attention to both the min, and max lure weight of a rod, and throw the weight that it's rated for. I in most circumstances will not cast a lighter, nor a heavier bait, unless I'm in a pinch. Carrying 6 rods around bank fishing gets to be bit much..lol  Use the right tool for the job.

[new2BC4bass]

I always pay attention to a rod's lure rating.  As previously stated, its best performance should be in the middle weights.  Normally I don't push the upper limits, but on occasion have tried the lower end limit.  Staying in the middle range is why I have rods from Light to Heavy.

 

As you know some brands are known to fish heavy...or light.  If limited to just 2-3 rods, I try to pick ones that will cast the whole range listed.  Especially the low end as I would hopefully have brought a rod for the heaviest lures I planned on using.  In other words, I would not choose an Abu with a 1/4 oz. low rating, but would instead select something like a Falcon because I know it would handle the 1/4 oz. while the Abu might not.  Wouldn't...at least from my experience.  Will cast that light, but performance is bad.

 

As far as your question "If a rod is rated for 1/4 oz would you throw a 1/8 (bullet weight) T Rig on it?" it would again depend on the rod brand for my previously stated reason.  1/8 oz. bullet weight, plus hook, plus plastic should make the 1/4 oz. lower limit.  I actually bought a scale so I can start knowing the actual weights I will be casting.  I wouldn't hesitate to try that combo on a Falcon or Hammer.

[BigAngus752]

I agree with @Scott F (again).  I have a digital kitchen scale and anytime I pick up a plastic that I haven't thrown before I'll put it on the scale just out of curiosity.  Total everything up that you are tying on.  That's your lure weight.  But regardless of the rod rating you need to try it out for yourself.  Every manufacturer rates their rods differently because every fisherman has a different opinion.  I have a couple rods that don't work anywhere near their highest or lowest weight rating.  At least not for me.  Just don't go above the max weight.  

 

Lastly, if you have a rod that has the lowest weight painted on it of 1/4 oz and you want to throw something that is 1/8 oz and you are looking for an excuse to buy a new rod then please cut and paste the following for your wife:

 

Under no circumstances should you attempt to throw a 1/8oz lure using your current rod.  The resulting sonic vibrations could alter the Earth's atmosphere and cause cataclysmic environmental disasters that could end all life as we know it. 

 

You're welcome.   

[MickD]

It's all about loading the rod properly to store then "spend" the energy on the cast.  Like a hunting bow, the rod stores energy when it flexes.  Too little weight for the power of the rod and it's inefficient and casting becomes more difficult and, IMHO, less accurate.  Too much weight and the rod can be overpowered.  It can even fail.

 

So the recommended range is the manufacturers' statement of the range of weights that will not fail the rod and make it most efficient.  You can go outside it, but if you go far up from it, go to more of a slow lob.

[t_bone_713]

Thank you all for the replies! I appreciate everyone's time and effort!

[WRB]

Lure rating is one way to determine the power/action for a specific rods use.

Medium heavy is the most popular power rating, fast action for bass anglers using bait casting rod/reel combo's. Without a standard to judge what that means in practical  terms rod makers add lure weight range they feel is appropriate for the rods use along with line lb test.

If you add the high and low lure weight and divide by 2 you the nominal lure weight ideal for that rod according to the maker. 1/4 oz to 1 oz = 1 1/4 oz divided by 2 = 5/8.

1/4 oz to 3/4 oz = 1 oz divide by 2 = 1/2 oz. The MH rod with 5/8 oz vs 1/2 oz tells me the has a high MH power rating. Factor in the line recommended 8 lb to 17 lb vs 10 to 20 lb tells me the fast action is faster tip using the lower lb test rating.

There is logic to the numbers but only physically touch and feel will tell you how a rod feels to you.

Regarding lure weight it's the actual weight of the lure as you use it.

The rods specific use is also helpful, for example crankbait, jig & worm, top water, jerk baits and swimbaits tell you something about the power and action of the rods are different for each category.

Tom

 

 

[MickD]

What's the difference between a faster tip and a slower tip?  Or moderate tip.  I know what the difference is between a faster action rod and a slower action rod, or a moderate action rod, but not sure of faster vs slower tip vs moderate tip.

  

[WRB]

My personal experience start back when rods didn't have power or action ratings, a rod was either a casting rod, a bass rod, a trout rod,a musky rod, a trolling rod, a live bait rod etc. my 1st bait casting rod was a tubular glass "bass" rod made by Connolyn Co in 1955 before Garcia Corp bought the company. Bass rod were designed to cast plugs using Dacron line and knuckle buster type reels, before free spool reels were availble.

No power, action or line rating. 

The 1st power rating I recall was Fenwick Corp using the rods lifting power in pounds or the dead weight the rod could lift before bottoming out. For fresh water "bass" rods they listed 3, 4, 5 and 6 power. Today's terms 3= medium, 4= medium heavy, 5= heavy and 6= extra heavy. Lifting power has disappeared.

The 1st action I can recall was from the original Phenix rods who started marketing jig and worm rods with fast action for shaking the rod tip to add action to the lure. Don Iovino then sponsored by Phenix added extra fast action doddle rods that only the rod near the tip flexed more then a fast action when shaking the lure.

The whole power and action has morphed into marketing without any standard to judge by, a subjective topic at best.

The Original bass rods in today's terms would be 3 power medium moderate action or a cranking rod. The old wooden plugs were also heavier then modern plastic lures, 5/8 to 3/4 oz being about average weight. Anglers back in the 50's trolled plugs as much as they cast them. Few bass anglers troll lures today.

Tom

[t_bone_713]

20 hours ago, WRB said:

My personal experience start back when rods didn't have power or action ratings, a rod was either a casting rod, a bass rod, a trout rod,a musky rod, a trolling rod, a live bait rod etc. my 1st bait casting rod was a tubular glass "bass" rod made by Connolyn Co in 1955 before Garcia Corp bought the company. Bass rod were designed to cast plugs using Dacron line and knuckle buster type reels, before free spool reels were availble.

No power, action or line rating. 

The 1st power rating I recall was Fenwick Corp using the rods lifting power in pounds or the dead weight the rod could lift before bottoming out. For fresh water "bass" rods they listed 3, 4, 5 and 6 power. Today's terms 3= medium, 4= medium heavy, 5= heavy and 6= extra heavy. Lifting power has disappeared.

The 1st action I can recall was from the original Phenix rods who started marketing jig and worm rods with fast action for shaking the rod tip to add action to the lure. Don Iovino then sponsored by Phenix added extra fast action doddle rods that only the rod near the tip flexed more then a fast action when shaking the lure.

The whole power and action has morphed into marketing without any standard to judge by, a subjective topic at best.

The Original bass rods in today's terms would be 3 power medium moderate action or a cranking rod. The old wooden plugs were also heavier then modern plastic lures, 5/8 to 3/4 oz being about average weight. Anglers back in the 50's trolled plugs as much as they cast them. Few bass anglers troll lures today.

Tom

 

21 hours ago, WRB said:

Lure rating is one way to determine the power/action for a specific rods use.

Medium heavy is the most popular power rating, fast action for bass anglers using bait casting rod/reel combo's. Without a standard to judge what that means in practical  terms rod makers add lure weight range they feel is appropriate for the rods use along with line lb test.

If you add the high and low lure weight and divide by 2 you the nominal lure weight ideal for that rod according to the maker. 1/4 oz to 1 oz = 1 1/4 oz divided by 2 = 5/8.

1/4 oz to 3/4 oz = 1 oz divide by 2 = 1/2 oz. The MH rod with 5/8 oz vs 1/2 oz tells me the has a high MH power rating. Factor in the line recommended 8 lb to 17 lb vs 10 to 20 lb tells me the fast action is faster tip using the lower lb test rating.

There is logic to the numbers but only physically touch and feel will tell you how a rod feels to you.

Regarding lure weight it's the actual weight of the lure as you use it.

The rods specific use is also helpful, for example crankbait, jig & worm, top water, jerk baits and swimbaits tell you something about the power and action of the rods are different for each category.

Tom

 

 

You are wealth of knowledge my friend. Thank you for your time.

[Shimano_1]

I've never personally paid any attention to the lure rating. I can see how it would be beneficial to inexperienced anglers tho

[Hammer 4]

18 minutes ago, Shimano_1 said:

I've never personally paid any attention to the lure rating. I can see how it would be beneficial to inexperienced anglers tho

Hmmm..being that a given rod, say a MH, or Heavy, could have a few different lure weight ratings, how could anyone make a choice w/o knowing if that MH will toss up to 5/8 oz, or 3/8 oz..?

 

I'm far from an inexperienced angler, and I still look at the lure rating. They may not be 100% accurate, but I can get a general idea if a rod will toss a 3oz swimbait vs a 5 oz bait..

[Shimano_1]

Getting into big heavy baits I would definitely want to know the rods ratings. As for say a 7' med hvy...if I were throwing a 3/8 bait and wanted to go heavier I'd cut the bait off and put the heavier on within reason obviously.  I've got all my combos down to basically a cple baits I throw on any given rod. Obviously if I only had a cple combos these lure ratings would be more important.  Given the differences in rod actions from different manufacturers it's all a matter of preference anyway.  What I want for a specific bait may seem too heavy or light for the next guy. If having the ratings as a guide helps then by all means use it. My answer is no I dont ever use it. Couldn't tell ya what any of my rods are "rated" for. Kinda like the fluoro debate...lots of guys on here seem to not be a fan. I personally love it. We have options for days although that can be overwhelming in itself