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Posted

Hello, could use some advice.  I am new to boat ownership.  I have a 20 foot Robalo with a f150 yamaha.  I keep it outside but covered. I do plan to use it every once in a while during the winter to bass fish.  What do I need to do to prepare it for freezing weather?  Thank you all! 

  • Super User
Posted

I would just change the gear lube. If you will be using the livewell, drain it after each use the best you can and put some RV antifreeze in the lines and pump cartridge. Trim the motor down, drain the water and bump the starter to push out any water that doesn't drain. 

Posted

And keep the gas filled to the brim to prevent condensation in your tank and I only use Yamaha Ring Free in my gas since day one. At least this has worked for me for the last 18 years stored outdoors.  No gas or startup problems in the spring and mine has to sit 3-4 months. (same motor for that time)

Posted
7 minutes ago, OnthePotomac said:

And keep the gas filled to the brim to prevent condensation in your tank and I only use Yamaha Ring Free in my gas since day one. At least this has worked for me for the last 18 years stored outdoors.  No gas or startup problems in the spring and mine has to sit 3-4 months. (same motor for that time)

So what else do you do other than this? 

  • Super User
Posted

I always keep my gas well charged with a good marine fuel conditioner to help combat any fuel problems, which can be super expensive and difficult to solve.   Best bet is to avoid them by buying fuel from high volume stations and adding the fuel additive with every fill.  I put an extra dose in with my last fill of the season.  Marine Stabil and Seafoam are good, but I'll bet there are many more.  

 

Most recommend fogging, too, which I always do.  

 

I think a good idea would be to contact your boat manufacturer for their recommendations rather than relying on us.  Usually it's covered in the owner manual, too.

 

http://robalo.com/admin/Document-Depot.php?action=owners_manuals

  • Super User
Posted

Be sure to keep the motor trimmed down so waters can’t get in the hub and freeze.

Posted
3 hours ago, MickD said:

I always keep my gas well charged with a good marine fuel conditioner to help combat any fuel problems, which can be super expensive and difficult to solve.   Best bet is to avoid them by buying fuel from high volume stations and adding the fuel additive with every fill.  I put an extra dose in with my last fill of the season.  Marine Stabil and Seafoam are good, but I'll bet there are many more.  

 

Most recommend fogging, too, which I always do.  

 

I think a good idea would be to contact your boat manufacturer for their recommendations rather than relying on us.  Usually it's covered in the owner manual, too.

 

http://robalo.com/admin/Document-Depot.php?action=owners_manuals

Thanks for the link. I’m somewhat surprised all it says is change oil, keep plug out, open hatches, remove battery completely out of boat, and add a fuel stabilizer. I would have thought there would have been more. 

  • Super User
Posted
22 minutes ago, clemsondds said:

I would have thought there would have been more.

Me too.  I have never heard of winterizing an outboard without changing the lower unit oil.  This is done mostly to allow you to detect if fishing line has compromised the seal allowing water in.  Never heard of not fogging, too.  Some engine manufacturers even recommend you do it by removing spark plugs and injecting oil directly into the cylinders, but I've always done it through the induction system even when changing spark plugs.  It appears to me like spark plugs are lasting longer than they used to as my Merc calls for a change only after 600 hours, if I remember correctly.  I do the things that others in this forum have recommended + the owner manual stuff.  

 

One thing I forgot until now is that you need to have a bullet-proof mouse control program.  Mice love to chew on wiring insulation, build messy nests, chew on boat flotation material, etc etc.  After you have your program set up leave a plain paper towel or a piece of toilet paper in the boat.  If there are any mice there they will show their presence by chewing it up.  If you see chewing you have mice.

Posted

Two stroke engines don't need fogging while 4 strokes do.  The reasoning behind this is the 4 strokes will have valves somewhere in the valve train that will stay open which will allow air into the cylinder and cause rust on the cylinder walls.  Typically, especially ones with EFI, two strokes will have a winterizing program that will shut the piston against the intake port eliminating any exposure to the to the outside air.

 

As said above, unless I've put a lot of hours on mine I only change the lower unit oil to make sure no water has gotten in the gear case.  If there's water in there and it freezes bye bye gear case housing.  The engine oil I usually do every other season with the exception of high hour years.

  • Like 1
Posted

My Yammie is a two stroke and I have never fogged the carbs and as I said, only use Yamaha Ring Free in the gas, always, but never put Stabil, or anything else in the gas.  I do also pull  the prop, put a heavy layer of Yamaha Blue Marine grease on the shaft and slip a piece of capped PVC pipe over the shaft for the winter.  Also do what else has been mentioned above. It always starts right up in the spring.  Stabil is mostly deodorized kerosene (according to the MSTS sheet) and Sea Foam is mostly alcohol, which E10 has already.

Posted

are you guys using your boats in the winter? I will probably use my boat a few times during the winter. Does that matter? How does that change things? 

  • Super User
Posted

Where are you located?  I’m in the south and I use my boat in the winter.  The only thing I do differently is make sure I let the water drain out of the motor when I pull it out of the water.  You might talk to a local dealer about what they recommend.  

Posted
1 hour ago, clemsondds said:

are you guys using your boats in the winter? I will probably use my boat a few times during the winter. Does that matter? How does that change things? 

Usually fogging is only necessary if it's not going to be started for 3 months or so.  As long as you cycle the trim all the way up and then all the way down before you leave it the water in the engine should all drain and there should be no problems there.  Also the gas treatment should't matter if you are running it every few weeks either.

  • Super User
Posted
1 hour ago, OnthePotomac said:

Sea Foam is mostly alcoh

SECTION 3. COMPOSITION/INFORMATION ON INGREDIENTS Chemical Name CAS # Concentration Hydrocarbon blend* Blend < 95% Isopropanol 67-63-0 < 25%

 

Doesn't look like mostly alcohol to me.  This says that Sea Foam is less than 25% isopropanol.

Based on the range of responses to this question, I go back to "If it's on the internet, it must be true."

Posted

A friend of mine is a chemical engineer and offered up this for us.  The contents on the Sea Foam MSDS has varied from the 1985 data sheet on isoproponal and as of September 11, 2018 reflects this:

Hydrocarbocarbon Blend      less than 95%

Isoproponal                        less then 25%

But there is a never before qualifier added to the recent sheet, which reads:

Note: The exact composition of the listed chemicals are being withheld as a trade secret.

He further explained that OSHA is reviewing  Data Sheets (MSDS) and they are in the process of revising what is allowable under the trade secret loop hole. Once corrected, OSHA issues the Hazard Communication Standard (HCS) requirements for a hazardous chemical composition used in the product and will require that it be listed.

The latest SeaFoam MSDS reflects the use of that loop hole

 

The only other comment he had was that we will be surprised to see what is really in it.

Posted

So just to clarify, changing the lower unit oil (besides during regular maintenance) is only for leak detection, correct? The actual cold temperature won't affect the gear oil assuming gear case isn't compromised? 

  • Like 1
Posted

Correct.   It is a good check for leaking seals and the old oil should clear and not milky.  I use a glass jar for my old oil.

  • Like 1
Posted

Ok talked with my dealer as well.  He just recommended changing the oil which I have, and then lowering the motor, take out the plug, and add a stabilizer to the fuel.  He didn't mention which stabilizer.  I saw several recommend yamaha ring free.  But then I also saw where people said that ring free isn't a stabilizer...so should I add ring free, as well as a stabilizer?  If so, which ring free should I use (ring free or ring free plus fuel additive) and which stabilizer should I use?  Thanks again for all the help!  And thank you Francho for the links...good help as well. 

Posted

Two things to prevent mice/rodents.  First, if you have a cover on it or leave any rope, straps or similar on the boat make sure they are not dangling over the side.  Mice and other rodents will climb up any strap you have hanging within a couple feet of the floor.  This includes motor covers so if you drop your trim don't leave a cover on the lower unit.  

 

Second, buy a box of cheap dryer sheets and put about 30 of them all over the floors, the seats, and in the compartments.  I thought this was b.s. but I once paid to store my boat in a barn with 20 other boats and I did the dryer sheet thing.  Several boats were chewed to pieces.  Mine didn't have a single mouse turd in it.  

  • Like 2
Posted

Sadly, I'm going to have to do this this weekend. I might be trying out some Ice fishing for the first time this winter so not all bad.

Posted

Talked to a dealer and they recommended yamalube ring free and then also yamalube fuel stabilizer and conditioner.  any use this stuff?  Thanks 

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