Slider Hookup Problems

[livin2fish]

When a bass bites, keeping the finesse worm from balling up on the hook shaft of a slider, is a continuing problem for me.  I believe super glue probably is the best way to solve the problem, but I do not like dealing with super glue.  Are there other ways to keep the fish from pulling the worm down? On t-rigs, a small swivel works.  I'm not a tournament fisherman, so time is not a problem.   

[Choporoz]

What hooks exactly are you using?  I've only used slider heads with a 'worm bend' and don't recall having same problems

[Team9nine]

Agree - more details needed. I rarely have any issues with Slider heads. The worm will naturally get pulled down on a good bite/hookset...it’s supposed to.

[WRB]

Just a observation. Slider jigs use a off set style worm hook to be used with finesse type smaller diameter worms skin hooked. If the op is using larger diameter worms covering the off set hook bend and not skin hooking the worm will get pulled down easily preventing hook set because the hook point is covered with plastic.

The original Charlie Brewer slider jig used a straight shank hook and the worm should be rigged with exposed hook.

Tom

[Mobasser]

Slider heads with an offset hook work great for me. I use the Spider slider and Snagless Slider heads with several brands of worms in the 4" size. Rarely have trouble hooking fish with these

[primetime]

I use the slider Original Open hook jigheads more than I use the Ned Rig or Shaky head if I can get away with them since they are light wire hooks, and obviously not great in weeds, and if around alot of cover, its tough to put pressure on a good bass and get him in unless you have open water and some time to let the drag work.....Hook sets have never been an issue, I consider them like using a Darter head or any jig head. I barely set the hook, maybe a sweep once I feel the pressure, or just reel down, since I use 3-4" worms. I have had issues with hooksets on the spider weedless hooks at times and like Tom said above, Its because I sometimes use a worm way to thick or big, so then it will bunch up...I set the hook with the spider jigs as if it were a pegged texas rig which it essentially is or weedless shaky head/Football jig...You need to match the right size of bait to the hooks size, guage etc...

 

I have not used the spider jigs in a while, but I kind of remember the last batch I ordered was not sharp. Not sure if that is common, or just a bad batch.Kind of like how the BPS jig heads are dull and I never have confidence in them even if fishing them open cause compared to the better brands, the hooks on jigheads make all the difference.

 

Maybe just give the fish more time, and fish with the same rod, line you would with a weightless or texas rigged Trick worm or smaller ribbon tail since they are thin and fish take the entire bait...Bluegills and crappie will also grab finesse rigs and sometimes its easy to mistake them for Bass. 

 

I would run the hook against your fingernail and see if it catches, if not, the hooks may just be dull. There are good videos online from the original charlie brewer system that explains slider fishing in depth....Its a good way to put up numbers, and fish do not see that gliding action often anymore so I wouldn't give up on the rig....Slider worms do have the ribbbed body, so maybe make sure the hook point is in between the thicker parts....

[OkobojiEagle]

OP... please know there is a size difference in hooks between the Brewer Spider heads.  The CLASSIC spider head uses a 3/0 bronze hook as opposed to the Spider head which uses a 2/0 bronze hook.  The Classic Spider head's longer shank and greater gap will help your hook-up problem.  As mentioned above, baits that are thicker than 1/2 of the hook's gap are going to be more difficult to set well into a bass.  When rigging the bait, bringing the hook point completely through the bait then backing the hook into the bait makes it easier to set into the bass.  Also, lubricating the hook with liquid scent will help the hook slide through the plastic bait and clear the hook gap more easily.  Saliva will work to a degree if you don't have a liquid scent product.  Work the scent/saliva well into the plastic.

 

oe

[primetime]

1 hour ago, OkobojiEagle said:

OP... please know there is a size difference in hooks between the Brewer Spider heads.  The CLASSIC spider head uses a 3/0 bronze hook as opposed to the Spider head which uses a 2/0 bronze hook.  The Classic Spider head's longer shank and greater gap will help your hook-up problem.  As mentioned above, baits that are thicker than 1/2 of the hook's gap are going to be more difficult to set well into a bass.  When rigging the bait, bringing the hook point completely through the bait then backing the hook into the bait makes it easier to set into the bass.  Also, lubricating the hook with liquid scent will help the hook slide through the plastic bait and clear the hook gap more easily.  Saliva will work to a degree if you don't have a liquid scent product.  Work the scent/saliva well into the plastic.

 

oe

Great Idea adding some liquid scent or lubricant to a hook to get a better hook set. Surprised I have never heard of that before, but something I am certainly going to start doines.....Awesome Info and easy tweak to use..Plus maybe I will get more fish using scents more often...Win, Win.

[Fishes in trees]

Slider heads are designed to be used with a worm of a particular thickness, i.e the slider worm.   Should you be using a different brand worm that is significantly thicker than the slider worm, I can see where hook up issues might happen.

I use BPS paddle tail stick-o's a lot on quarter ounce slider heads.   I skin hook the plastic and while I miss fish from time to time, that 's my fault and not the fault of the bait.

[livin2fish]

More information:  

23 hours ago, Choporoz said:

What hooks exactly are you using?  I've only used slider heads with a 'worm bend' and don't recall having same problems

Brand:  "Slider Pro Heads" On back of package "Pro Snagless Heads"  These are offset hooks (worm bend?)

23 hours ago, Team9nine said:

Agree - more details needed. I rarely have any issues with Slider heads. The worm will naturally get pulled down on a good bite/hookset...it’s supposed to.

Didn't know the worm was meant to slide down.  Learned something new.  Always thought the offset was supposed to help keep the worm from sliding down.  Learned some other things from other posts below.

21 hours ago, WRB said:

Just a observation. Slider jigs use a off set style worm hook to be used with finesse type smaller diameter worms skin hooked. If the op is using larger diameter worms covering the off set hook bend and not skin hooking the worm will get pulled down easily preventing hook set because the hook point is covered with plastic.

The original Charlie Brewer slider jig used a straight shank hook and the worm should be rigged with exposed hook.

Tom

Using only Zoom Finesse worm and Roboworms (very thin) both 5 inches or less.  No fat worms.  I have tried running the hook all the way through and skin hooking, and just running the hook through enough to leave the hook point embedded in the worm. 

4 hours ago, OkobojiEagle said:

Also, lubricating the hook with liquid scent will help the hook slide through the plastic bait and clear the hook gap more easily.  Saliva will work to a degree if you don't have a liquid scent product.  Work the scent/saliva well into the plastic.

Just the opposite of my thinking, but makes sense.  Hook sliding easier through into the bass should help.

 

13 hours ago, primetime said:

Slider worms do have the ribbbed body, so maybe make sure the hook point is in between the thicker parts....

The worms I'm using are not ribbed (much).  Will have to look for some ribbed slider worms.

Thanks for all the comments.  I have some things to try.

[WRB]

Roboworms are soft and will not stay on a smooth off set hook. Roboworms created a shrink sleeve barb specifically to resolve this issue called Rebard hooks.

You can look up a video on Aaron Martens making Rebard hooks using shrink sleeves.

Basically 1/8" shrink sleeve cut at 45 angle about 1/4" long. You slide the cut tubing angle end towards the hook eye up against the jig head and heat it. The 45 angle end folds out to make a barb that holds the soft plastic worm head in place.

Tom

[livin2fish]

Thanks Tom.  May be just the option I'm looking for.