Aluminum hull repair

[Jonboatben]

Hello. I’ve just bought a Lund predator 1760 sc. I was at the lake and I land on shore. The boat was bobbing on a rock. Put some scratches in the hull. Just wondering for the future can I repair an aluminum boat? It has factory spray foam in it. How much would a it cost to fix a tear? If one did happen. 

[A-Jay]

Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~ 

While I can not offer an accurate price range for an aluminum hull repair,

I can tell you that investing in shallow water anchor(s), can virtually illuminate the need for it.

(12 Ft Talons pictured)

A-Jay

 

 

 

 

 

[JLBBass]

34 minutes ago, Jonboatben said:

Hello. I’ve just bought a Lund predator 1760 sc. I was at the lake and I land on shore. The boat was bobbing on a rock. Put some scratches in the hull. Just wondering for the future can I repair an aluminum boat? It has factory spray foam in it. How much would a it cost to fix a tear? If one did happen. 

Honestly, it'll be PRETTY darn hard to tear a Lund hull that way! But, I would recommend being careful "where" you beach it, if you do need to beach it.

[TheRodFather]

Welding a hull is possible, I was quoted around 500 to fix a couple spots on my hull when I was restoring.  I ended up buying a tig welder and doing it myself, so I came in around 700, and my time to learn.

 

There are products out there for the DIYer that are quite good.  Marinetex is a good thick epoxy that bonds well to aluminum, and West systems G Flex epoxy flows into cracks and seems really well.  Repair welds can crack due to flex weakening the metal near the (strong) weld bead.  So it's really a case by case, best guess based on location type of call.  I used all three in different areas of my hull restoration, and they are all holding up great after several years.

 

Closed end riveting a patch panel, sealed with 3m marine sealant is an option as well.  Doesn't look the best, but will flex with the boat over time.

[Further North]

9 hours ago, A-Jay said:

Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~ 

While I can not offer an accurate price range for an aluminum hull repair,

I can tell you that investing in shallow water anchor(s), can virtually illuminate the need for it.

(12 Ft Talons pictured)

A-Jay

 

 

 

 

 

Do you have to wade out to the boat?

[A-Jay]

7 minutes ago, Further North said:

Do you have to wade out to the boat?

Yup - 

Bow's sitting in about 20 inches I guess.

Pair of hip boots and I'm golden.

Also placed a 'water depth indicator' on my push pole so I know when I'm shallow enough step out of the Lund without filling my boots or worse. 

With that clear water is hard to identify the depth accurately.

Only needed to chill the willie once in 35 degree water & a cold wind to come up with that one.

A-Jay

[Further North]

59 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

Yup - 

Bow's sitting in about 20 inches I guess.

Pair of hip boots and I'm golden.

Also placed a 'water depth indicator' on my push pole so I know when I'm shallow enough step out of the Lund without filling my boots or worse. 

With that clear water is hard to identify the depth accurately.

Only needed to chill the willie once in 35 degree water & a cold wind to come up with that one.

A-Jay

Interesting approach, I like the thought that went into it.

 

I'd be more inclined to go Ulterra/Ultrex/Terrova and drive it shallower...but I can see the benefit on lakes with no dock.

[slonezp]

The biggest issue with repairing a tear in an aluminum boat is removing the foam around the tear to make the weld.

[OnthePotomac]

My tin had a mild dock problem on the starboard side 6' long with a protruding spike and it was professionally welded, finished, painted, and a new, full length bow to stern G3 decal replaced and is like new.  Fortunately my insurance paid the $1000 bill.  The guy I found really knew what he was doing.