Welding the eye of a Hook

[Catt]

I've been at this game for 60 yrs & have never had line slip through that "gap" or the hook cut line.

 

Especially with today's modern hooks!

[Hammer 4]

In  about 50 years, never had the line slip off a hook.

[fin]

Would fingernail polish work?

 

I've personally never had this problem, and I'm a little bit skeptical that it even is a problem for anyone, other than in their mind. On the other hand, I know how it is when something starts to bug you and you want to fix it - you can't be happy until it's done. I just can't imagine how/why the line would end up in that gap, unless you're using something like the non-slip loop knot that allows the hook to move freely.

 

I believe in the danger of circular split rings cutting line, and I know a lot of people don't believe that, so I try to be open-minded about the hook gap thing.

[Way north bass guy]

This whole thing just seems crazy to me. I’ve never once had an issue with the hook eye “gap”. Just tie your knot properly and it shouldn’t move around enough to ever get anywhere near the sides of the hook, only time might be with a loop knot but even with those I’ve never had an issue. 

[snake95]

2 hours ago, Way north bass guy said:

This whole thing just seems crazy to me. I’ve never once had an issue with the hook eye “gap”. Just tie your knot properly and it shouldn’t move around enough to ever get anywhere near the sides of the hook, only time might be with a loop knot but even with those I’ve never had an issue.

I've been called a little OCD, and less polite words for that.  I'm an engineer and a perfectionist, and I like to tinker.  But I agree.  I did not know this was a thing.  If you need to spend time and money to solder your hooks, maybe you need to buy better hooks?  Or am I off base and this is an issue for flipping for monster bass in S. Cali or something like that?

[FLAGATOR49]

5 hours ago, Way north bass guy said:

This whole thing just seems crazy to me. I’ve never once had an issue with the hook eye “gap”. Just tie your knot properly and it shouldn’t move around enough to ever get anywhere near the sides of the hook, only time might be with a loop knot but even with those I’ve never had an issue. 

You should tie a knot with flurocarbon on a modern hook and try it out. I highly doubt your knot has absolutely no slide to it. Then drag some fluro on that gap and watch it fray. 

8 hours ago, Catt said:

I've been at this game for 60 yrs & have never had line slip through that "gap" or the hook cut line.

 

Especially with today's modern hooks!

You've never broke off a fish in 60 years??? Impressive..

[Catt]

4 hours ago, FLAGATOR49 said:

You've never broke off a fish in 60 years??? Impressive..

 

Not because of line slipping through the "gap" or the hook cutting it.

 

I don't know what brand hooks you're using but if they have enough "gap" for any line to slip through ya might wanna consider a different brand.

 

And yes I've fished braided Cotton, Dacron, Micron, Suture Material (Silk), Micro Dyneema®, Kevlar, & Spectra. 

[keagbassr]

I actually had this happen to me a few times with the old style mustad grip pin hooks while punching. I believe the weight flopping around can pull the knot to the gap. 1st time thought I broke off but went to retie and saw my knot still there. Figured it was a fluke then it happened again. At the time these were the only hooks with the shank keeper so I wasn't going to change hooks. I did both the 'dummy knot' and the super glue and found the glue to work better. Don't have this problem with the newer style hooks. 

[Way north bass guy]

6 hours ago, FLAGATOR49 said:

You should tie a knot with flurocarbon on a modern hook and try it out. I highly doubt your knot has absolutely no slide to it. Then drag some fluro on that gap and watch it fray. 

You've never broke off a fish in 60 years??? Impressive..

I use fluorocarbon all the time, from 6lb up to 20lb on multiple different hooks, and have never once had this happen. I mostly use a Palomar knot, and it doesn’t seem to move much for me. The only time my line ever breaks, is either from rubbing on rocks/zebra mussels or if a pike or muskie snips me off. 

[Fishingmickey]

To whom it may or may not concern:

     I have had the line get caught in the "gap" of the hook eye and had to re-tie after pulling it out. I felt pretty sure it damaged the line. This is on modern hooks and yes I like the VMC's that have the epoxied gap.

 

Fishingmickey

[FLAGATOR49]

1 hour ago, Fishingmickey said:

To whom it may or may not concern:

     I have had the line get caught in the "gap" of the hook eye and had to re-tie after pulling it out. I felt pretty sure it damaged the line. This is on modern hooks and yes I like the VMC's that have the epoxied gap.

 

Fishingmickey

Great concept on their hooks and i'm glad they brought it to market, but I tried the Tokyo Rig and their hooks just don't seem sharp to me. 

4 hours ago, Catt said:

 

Not because of line slipping through the "gap" or the hook cutting it.

 

I don't know what brand hooks you're using but if they have enough "gap" for any line to slip through ya might wanna consider a different brand.

 

And yes I've fished braided Cotton, Dacron, Micron, Suture Material (Silk), Micro Dyneema®, Kevlar, & Spectra. 

- Gamakatsu superline, the knot doesn't slip through the gap just to wrong side with the crimp/indentation. Which I can only assume damages your knot, a drop of superglue has greatly reduced the knot sliding.  

3 hours ago, Way north bass guy said:

I use fluorocarbon all the time, from 6lb up to 20lb on multiple different hooks, and have never once had this happen. I mostly use a Palomar knot, and it doesn’t seem to move much for me. The only time my line ever breaks, is either from rubbing on rocks/zebra mussels or if a pike or muskie snips me off. 

- I tested with several knots on a fresh black nickel hook and the palomar does slide less than knots that are more popular for flurocarbon like the san diego jam, doubled uni, and shark/shaw grigsby knot. Maybe its because I'm using 20lb leader material, lighter line seems to slide less.    

[Catt]

1 hour ago, FLAGATOR49 said:

the knot doesn't slip through the gap just to wrong side with the crimp/indentation.

 

Ok we done changed stories...buy all super glue ya can.

 

Have a nice day! ?

[WRB]

The knot may not be snug enough to prevent movement however to direction of the line pull is opposite of gap in the hook eye, the knot can't slip off casting, working lures or fighting fish. The only way line gets caught in a hook eye gap is tieing the knot or pushing down on the line to remove the hook from a fish. 

The San Deigo jam knot gets tighter as you fish and the Palomar has double line wrap, both common knots that hold tight on the hook eye. The snell knot is designed to be tied on a turned up eye hook to reduce line damage from eye gaps, wrong knot for standard eye hooks unless the eye is sealed closed; Owner Jungle hook for example.

I retie often because the line and knot gets damaged when fishing.

Tom

[Mobasser]

In almost 40 yrs, I've never had this happen. I've used Eagle Claw, Mustad, Gama,and some others. I've never thought of welding shut a hook eye, nor would see no need to. I'd get some different hooks

[HenryPF]

I actually get this problem - a lot. Fishing Owner EWG or Gama EWG Superline hooks. I am using the palomer knot. Like others have mentioned, it is the knot getting caught up at the bend of the eyelet and I cannot slide it back up to the correct position.

 

It's mostly because I fish thin braid and only when the fish thrashes a lot. I did buy a few VMC hooks with the resin to alleviate the problem.

[MBB Nate]

I too never realized this was a thing.

[jbsoonerfan]

25 minutes ago, MBB Nate said:

I too never realized this was a thing.

Me neither, but I just saw a commercial where Burger King is selling a Whopper made with no meat. So. it's 2019 and anything is possible.