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Posted

Does anyone have experience sealing the eye of their hook? I know some brands offer this out of the package but searching for a method to do this for hooks that aren't sealed. Soldering, Welding, or JB Weld if you have any advice I would greatly appreciate it!

  • Super User
Posted

Take a small piece of electrical wrap tubing & place it over the opening & heat in place. 

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Posted
8 hours ago, crypt said:

solder …..

you have any tips? I have a kit on the way from Amazon. So many different fluxes and soder/rosin types to choose from

5 hours ago, Dwight Hottle said:

Take a small piece of electrical wrap tubing & place it over the opening & heat in place. 

cool idea I haven't heard that one before Thanks!!

Posted
16 hours ago, dodgeguy said:

Why?

Maybe because they see these manufacturers doing it and charging more for it that they think its a good idea?

 

I know it's not because they are catching fish so big they are opening up the eye of the hook. Or maybe it's for the same reason to use oval split rings so the area the line ties to isn't over the gap.

  • Super User
Posted

The heat shrink electrical wrap is the best way I'd say. However there is something else you can do, 5 min. epoxy and it would be easy. Take some masking tape and tape a bunch of hooks to something to keep them upright. Mix the epoxy and then use a toothpick to place a small amount in the hook gap and let dry, that will seal the gap.

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  • Super User
Posted
4 minutes ago, moguy1973 said:

Maybe because they see these manufacturers doing it and charging more for it that they think its a good idea?

 

I know it's not because they are catching fish so big they are opening up the eye of the hook. Or maybe it's for the same reason to use oval split rings so the area the line ties to isn't over the gap.

Two reasons. If using thin line (braid) it can actually slip through the gap on certain hooks that didn't properly close the eye... Which means lost fish. 

The other is the point where the metal wraps around and froms the eye cab be sharp and cut line if your knot gets wedges in there. This can be an issue with using a snell knot I've found. Again... Lost fish. And I'm sure none of us like losing fish, especially to preventable tackle related issues. 

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Posted
2 minutes ago, MassYak85 said:

Two reasons. If using thin line (braid) it can actually slip through the gap on certain hooks that didn't properly close the eye... Which means lost fish. 

The other is the point where the metal wraps around and froms the eye cab be sharp and cut line if your knot gets wedges in there. This can be an issue with using a snell knot I've found. Again... Lost fish. And I'm sure none of us like losing fish, especially to preventable tackle related issues. 

First part makes sense, but for the 2nd part I wouldn't think that solder would be a good choice to use since it can leave behind sharp edges too. 

Posted
4 hours ago, smalljaw67 said:

The heat shrink electrical wrap is the best way I'd say. However there is something else you can do, 5 min. epoxy and it would be easy. Take some masking tape and tape a bunch of hooks to something to keep them upright. Mix the epoxy and then use a toothpick to place a small amount in the hook gap and let dry, that will seal the gap.

What kind of epoxy are you using? I heard John Crews talk about this method...seems much safer than solder lol

 

  • Super User
Posted

I've done both the solder and epoxy thing and they both work ok, but I find it easier and faster to just tie a Palomar with some 12 lb mono, clip both ends flush, and then slide the mono to the open end of the eye.

  • Super User
Posted

Soldering to black nickle plated hooks requires specific solder and flux I doubt you will find easily. If you over heat the hook eye it could cause you more problems, this isn't an easy task.

just tie your knot onto the hook and dab superglue gel on with a tooth pick. 

Tom

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Posted
58 minutes ago, Harold Scoggins said:

What brand of hook are you using?

Gamakatsu Superline 5/0 for weightless plastics

 

1 hour ago, BassWhole! said:

I've done both the solder and epoxy thing and they both work ok, but I find it easier and faster to just tie a Palomar with some 12 lb mono, clip both ends flush, and then slide the mono to the open end of the eye.

simple enough I'll have to give that a shot! Thank You

 

31 minutes ago, WRB said:

Soldering to black nickle plated hooks requires specific solder and flux I doubt you will find easily. If you over heat the hook eye it could cause you more problems, this isn't an easy task.

just tie your knot onto the hook and dab superglue gel on with a tooth pick. 

Tom

Would the biggest danger be weakening the eye through the heating process or the sharp edges that can be created? Super glue would prevent the knot from sliding, you prefer the gel type over standard super glue? I feel like the gel wears off unless you let it dry for a long time.  

3 hours ago, dodgeguy said:

If you Use braid superglue the knot it will never come off.

Its not with braid unfortunately, either mono or fluro what kind of superglue do you suggest?

  • Super User
Posted
8 hours ago, moguy1973 said:

First part makes sense, but for the 2nd part I wouldn't think that solder would be a good choice to use since it can leave behind sharp edges too. 

I've honestly never heard of soldering them until this thread and I'd probably agree with you. The shrinkwrap, fly thread, and epoxy are all options I know people have used though.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Solder will not adhere to most nickle plating unless using aggressive acidic flux and special 70/30 solder at higher heat, requires skill. You may end up with soldering the hook eye closed.

I use Loctite gel super glue, applicator tip re seals good easy to reuse.

Use Owner Jungle hooks with sealed eye and eliminate the problem.

Posted
4 minutes ago, WRB said:

Solder will not adhere to most nickle plating unless using aggressive acidic flux and special 70/30 solder at higher heat, requires skill. You may end up with soldering the hook eye closed.

I use Loctite gel super glue, applicator tip re seals good easy to reuse.

Use Owner Jungle hooks with sealed eye and eliminate the problem.

I do have sealed eye flipping hooks but this is for senkos/flukes. Seems like the knot sliding is most prevalent on weightless plastics and ill use the belly weighted superline w/ the flukes sometimes. Nothing lead tape cant solve on a lighter wire flipping hook though...and both plastics don't really need the EWG bend

  • Super User
Posted
10 hours ago, FLAGATOR49 said:

Gamakatsu Superline 5/0 for weightless plastics

 

simple enough I'll have to give that a shot! Thank You

 

Would the biggest danger be weakening the eye through the heating process or the sharp edges that can be created? Super glue would prevent the knot from sliding, you prefer the gel type over standard super glue? I feel like the gel wears off unless you let it dry for a long time.  

Its not with braid unfortunately, either mono or fluro what kind of superglue do you suggest?

Crazy glue brush on. Or loctite brush on.

Posted
21 hours ago, Derek1 said:

What about just a dab of superglue gel. 

Here's your answer

  • Super User
Posted

Good idea but high tempered steel hooks like Gamakatsu you can't overcome the metal temper memory  by sqweezing the hook eye and you risk damaging it.

Also super glue gel mat not bridge the gap with one dab of glue. A dab of glue on the line knot however solves the problem.

Tom 

Posted

Used some super glue on my knot this morning and it kept the knot in place much better, but it did slide eventually.

 

Tried soldering afterwards and was not able to close the gap between the hook eye, but it did work to fill in the little crimped area. 

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