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Posted

Alright, I scoured the internet for these (that's what lead me here.) I couldn't find them, so when I deconstructed my '96 Pro 120 a couple days ago (replacing decks) I saved the deck wood to use as a pattern. Today I spent a couple hours taking all the measurements and created these two technical drawings / pics. Feel free to share these. And if anyone has the electrical diagrams, I could really use them. 

 

Two things:

1) I don't know if the existing decks were from the factory or had already been replaced once.

2) There really is no way to use measurements alone to draw/explain the arched sides of the forward deck. someone could make a actual size blueprint/pattern to print out, but the file size would be huge and you'd have to trust whoever prints it. I would use cardboard to make a template.

 

I'm going to start a new thread for my resto / build, so look for that. I will post a link.

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On 1/2/2021 at 10:58 PM, Catherine said:

Hello, I just purchased a used sun dolphin pro 120. It has no deck. Does anyone have a template for the rear deck of this boat?

Thanks!

Catherine

See above...

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

I'm new here and just wanted to say hello. It's nice to see a forum with other owners of the Pro 120. Monday will be the 14 year anniversary of when I first met my boat. Sadly I haven't used it since I got married. ?  I was just cleaning it up today, making sure it was sea worthy. I don't live really close to many good places to fish my boat. But I used to take it all over the state. I want to get out there again. I was teaching my kids how to cast today. I've tried looking for the wooden middle seat that used to be an option with this boat, but can't find anything about it. I'd like to make one for my kids to sit on when I take them out. Anyone know what wood the original one was made of ? I also have been looking for replacement screw in drain plug gaskets. Anyone know who would have those ( .850 I.D. - 1.25 O.D ) ? Look forward to following this thread.

  • 2 months later...
Posted

I just got an older Pro 120 given to me. 
Miya pretty rough, but I think a winter overhaul may get it usable for next year. 
thanks for the deck specs Jonathan, did you start your rebuild thread? I’d like to follow it if you have. 
My boat has a different trolling motor mount up front. Can anyone tell me if it’s factory or if e PO added it?

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Posted

It appears the mount blocks some of the Nav light.

Probably not original.

Posted

 

3 hours ago, Rocketvapor said:

It appears the mount blocks some of the Nav light.

Probably not original.

Very good point, thank you. 
I thought it’s very thick for a trolling mount, has a 4x4 in it. 

  • 7 months later...
Posted

Hey man; I seen you have the block for the foot control trolling motor, do you have better pictures to show where it goes and how big the block is? I will have to make one due to them not being made anymore and I would like to know the dementions. 

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

Hello everyone. Not sure if this thread is still being followed. But I just ran across it. I've owned my 120 for about 5 years now. Getting ready to do some mods / updates and just wondering is anyone has any recently done. I'll post pictures Monday. Got it on the lake right now. 

  • Like 2
Posted

Hello, not sure either but its good to post mods for future reference and ideas for others. I added gen 2 yak attack gear track on each side for a rod and cup holder. It quick releases so its not in the way of the cover. Trolling with 3 rods is possible with one out the back.

 

I built a wood frame for the middle area to support the cover during rain.

 

I added a battery gauge to the top where the power panel is located but an inline fuse that runs to the front lights disconnected. There was no way to reconnect in the tight space with wire at bottom so I bought a small power panel online and cut a new hole. I was able to grab the wire and put it back together and will have power remaining gauge plus USB and 12volt plug. The wires are tight in the existing panel so its not fun to remove and replace. I am filling the hole on top with a new flush mount scotty rod holder as the gauge in the picture is now in the new panel.

 

The inline 50 amp fuse at the battery does not hold well. I am replacing it with one like you have on a car stereo and also putting in a 2 battery kill switch. I use trolling motor in back so I am also going to cut through and put the plug on the outside of the battery box. I'm also likely going to move the fishfinder to the back as the kids block my view to it up front.

 

Its late but someone wanted a pic of the wires. I posted one for future reference and also traced out the wires. I did cut the plastic for the additional power panel which was really easy with a good sharp step drill. Should have it done in a few days if no more parts are needed.

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  • Like 2
Posted

OK, Here is the extra power panel and the challenge to install it is that the faceplate is not uch bigger than the rings that tighten underneath leaving not much room for cutting error. It is really nice having a battery voltage and percentage left gauge at your fingertips. Just connected it to the top of the 50 amp breaker for power and the top of the light switch for ground and the USB, 12volt cigarette and on/off switch are daisy chained.

 

Also new inline 50amp fuse at the battery. The one it came with I had to constantly be tweaking the wires around for it to connect and it looks like the same one you can get at the Sun Dolphin website for 16 dollars. This one is easy to install and also has a push button quick disconnect so I will not install the battery switch until later as I only have one battery for now. 

 

Just have left to install the rear trolling motor plug under rear deck outside battery box (got it at napa auto parts after searching he part number)  once I get some more wire that big and to move the fish finder to the back but I'm still debating on that as space will be tight.

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I was also wondering why is there an inline fuse at the battery when the power panel has circuit breakers but from looking at it the 50 amp breaker only protects the front trolling motor plug and the 5 amp protects the aerator. There are other inline fuses for the lights buried in the hull, which led to my initial problem of a disconnect.

  • Like 1
  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

Installed trolling motor back plug under the deck where it will stay dry. With the breaker in battery box and quick disconnect I will just leave this plugged in but now I can still move it tot he front if desired. 

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Not sure how to edit my post but also added battery slow charger maintainer.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted

I’m looking for a replacement control panel and drain plug for my sun dolphin pro 120 bass boat . Can anyone suggest any where ! 

  • 5 weeks later...
Posted

Hey, I know I'm reviving an old thread, but thought perhaps some owners here might see it:  What is normally inside (or in between) the hulls?  Is there any wood reinforcement or structure?  I have one that I've owned for a while, never had a reason to open it up, but I bought it used and "refurbished".  I can see through the rear inside drain hole that there is a bunch of sludge and rotten wood chunks in there.  I'm planning to eventually open it up, make sure no leaks/repair/seal, clean it out, and put everything back together.  Just looking for some tips from some with experience if there's some type of reinforcement or frame that's normally in there that I should plan to fabricate/replace?

  • Like 1
  • 2 months later...
  • Super User
Posted
27 minutes ago, Ctpn.Jon said:

Does anyone know how I can fix my transom?

What's wrong with it?

Picture might help.

  • Like 1
  • 3 months later...
Posted
On 6/28/2022 at 1:54 PM, dgaschoDVM said:

Hey, I know I'm reviving an old thread, but thought perhaps some owners here might see it:  What is normally inside (or in between) the hulls?  Is there any wood reinforcement or structure?  I have one that I've owned for a while, never had a reason to open it up, but I bought it used and "refurbished".  I can see through the rear inside drain hole that there is a bunch of sludge and rotten wood chunks in there.  I'm planning to eventually open it up, make sure no leaks/repair/seal, clean it out, and put everything back together.  Just looking for some tips from some with experience if there's some type of reinforcement or frame that's normally in there that I should plan to fabricate/replace?

Hey, I am in the same situation.  I love the little boat.  My 10 year old son and I have a blast on it.  However, I know it is heavier than it should be so I know it needs some "attention" during the winter months.  

 

Did you every open/split your hull?

  • 1 year later...
Posted

Anyone can tell me what the two smalls holes are towards the back inside the battery compartment? It keeps filling up with water sometimes when I step near that area and it gets the bottom of the battery wet. Eventually it drains out, but water comes in through the two small holes every time I step on the casting deck near the battery compartment. Is that normal?

  • 1 month later...
Posted

@eman

The holes at the bottom of the battery cover serve as drain holes designed to channel water out of the battery compartment and into the hull, where it can then drain out through the bottom plug. If you find water accumulating in the battery compartment, it's possible that water is not draining properly due to the position of the drain plug, which may be slightly higher than the bottom of the hull.

 

This situation could arise, especially if the boat is stored outdoors, as rainwater may collect in the hull over time. Consequently, when the boat is tilted or leaned to one side, such as when stepping down on the port side, the water can pool in the corner and reach a level where it enters the battery compartment through the holes.

 

While I personally store my boat indoors and rarely encounter water in the hull, I occasionally remove the bottom drain plug and tilt the front of the boat at a 35-45 degree angle to help drain any accumulated water from the hull through the plug.

Posted

Those of you that use a gas outboard..   I am contemplating getting a 5hp propane,  my budget it limited and I can't afford to buy a 9.9hp.  Could anyone help me with either of the below questions:

  1. Since the motor only weighs 60 pounds, would it harm the transom if I trailered and stored the motor on the boat or do I really need to remove/reinstall it everytime I go out?   The boat is stored on the trailer in my garage if that matters.
  2. Anyone have a 5 or 6hp motor?   Could you share your performance experience?  I currently travel at 3.5 mph with a 12v 65lb brushless trolling motor in normal conditions and fully loaded with 2 people/gear.   This would be the first time owning an outboard, I am thinking that I could achieve 5 - 6 mph stepping up to 5hp, but would appreciate anyone who has a similiar size motor sharing their performance to help me validate if this is worth the expense.  
  3. If anyone has a propane engine, I am thinking that I would get a 5lb tank and modify the openning right in front of the motor to fit the tank upright just under the tiller handle, if I went with an 11lb tank, I am concerned the tiller handle won't clear the top of the tank.   Does anyone have an guidance/reconmendations/pictures of such a step up?

Thanks for the help

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

A number of the requests and questions I see posed on this thread can be answered and dealt with by contacting KL Industries in Muskegon, Michigan. Though they no longer manufacture the Pro 120, they do have many parts and good customer service still available. I bought new complete carpeted decks with hatches from them a year ago or so... reasonably, I thought, compared to what it would take time and money-wise to do as nice a job (though I had no shipping costs, picked them up).

Their customer service is very helpful... when I asked about the wood structure, I was emailed some pictures of the actual boat being manufactured, showing the structural framework (I'd gladly post a picture, but as this site has deemed me a security risk and not allowed membership, I won't at this time... a robot thinking I'm a robot apparently). Most of the "bolt-on" parts on the boat are/were outsourced by them from major manufacturers, such as Atwood, Sea Sense, etc..

My project before summer this year is to rig up remote control for a rear mount trolling motor, using some kayak remote ideas (Pelican cable steering assembly, lever located by the rear seat... possibly utilizing the complete trolling motor head, or, plan B, a remote power control next to it). I've always found the stock rear seat position awkward and uncomfortable accessing the tiller.

If I can get membership at this site, I'll share some pix with you as I progress...

  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

As you can see, It has been been determined I'm not a terrorist, and have been accepted into your flock, thank you. I have a couple more pictures of the assembly, but they apparently exceeded my allowable limit of digibites, so was unable to post them (nothing too exciting, just showing the sub-floor/transom support platform). As you can see, there is a little wood in the boat, but not much that can really be considered structural. But, it does let you know where screws may hold, hopefully.

  • 4 weeks later...
Posted
On 3/14/2024 at 12:49 AM, Steve Erickson said:

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dude this is awesome! I just split mine and rebuilt it. I’m trying to reattach the 2 halves now but I’m having a a little trouble riveting  the original holes in the rub guard. I also had to cut my own transom because the original basically dry rotted way so your pics of the original are awesome for me!

You don’t have any pics of the foam structure when reattaching the lower half do you? Just trying to make sure I put it back correctly. I will get an account and post the pics of the all the wiring outages and what not. I’ve been in contact with TinyBoatNation on some upgrades as well so stayed tuned.

  • Like 1
  • 5 months later...
Posted
On 2/25/2021 at 11:32 AM, Angler13 said:

Hey everyone, so glad to find this Sun Dolphin Pro 120 forum! I think I might be able to share a bit of info with my experience. First, I got my Pro 120 in 2012, and have added a 20 inch deck extension to the back deck, with a 30 gallon livewell under it. I added an extra control panel to control two new FlowRite pumps. One to pull water into the new livewell, another for recirculation. My bass are super healty at the scales. I've also added a bilge pump, and mounted a fish finder to the from deck. I fish a lot of electric only lakes, so I've been able to beat the big fiberglass boats to spots during tournaments, and have taken first with lunker (by myself!) with this little plastic tub on several occasions. It's awesome. I've had it for 10 years, and am just now replacing the decks as they've rotted out (I've kept it outside) so, I should be able to get a deck template for anyone who is interested. I typed this post hastily, but I'll bookmark this page to see if anyone is interested in pics or templates, etc.

 

Tight lines!

-Mark

I’d love to get deck templates from you if still available. Do you have front and rear?? I’m wanting to redo mine as well. Thanks. 
 

Chuck 

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