Chipping clear coat/ gel coat

[FordsnFishin]

Just now, J Francho said:

That was for the repair.

Right,  I got that lol. 1200 for them to strip the boat and redo it sounds very cheap. 

[J Francho]

That was just the rails on the top cap by the consoles., not the whole boat. 

[FordsnFishin]

Ahh, I had assumed they did the whole boat. 

[Way2slow]

It all boils down to the same thing I've said many times. 

It's his boat and he can do what he please.  I know no one is going to tell me what I can and can't do with something of mine, (within legal limits) and I'm not about to try and tell someone else what they can and can't do with something of theirs.  

I can suggest things I might do or would not do but in the end, it's his decision on what he ends up doing.

Who knows, the way they have change automotive style finishes in the past few years because of EPA, he may have one that will actually stay on.

[FordsnFishin]

46 minutes ago, Way2slow said:

It all boils down to the same thing I've said many times. 

It's his boat and he can do what he please.  I know no one is going to tell me what I can and can't do with something of mine, (within legal limits) and I'm not about to try and tell someone else what they can and can't do with something of theirs.  

I can suggest things I might do or would not do but in the end, it's his decision on what he ends up doing.

Who knows, the way they have change automotive style finishes in the past few years because of EPA, he may have one that will actually stay on.

Way2 slow,  I want to give you a very much appreciated thank you.  You've been a big help. 

 

That website you directed me to,  I did a bunch of reading.  That's one of the sites that I was reading of guys having good results with automotive clear. That's on bass boats,  big hot rod rigs, deck boats. Not trying to persuade anyone, just what I've read. 

 

Thankfully work has been slow for me so it's been allowing me to stay working on her. Yesterday I put in roughly 9 hours of sanding everything to get it ready. 

 

I've done 2 entire wipe downs with a rag and water.  Just wiped down with a degreaser. And im about to wipe it all down with acetone for a good measure.

 

Clear goes on today. 

[J Francho]

Good luck man, and post up some pics. ?

[WRB]

Acetone is a good solvent to clean plastic....very toxic and flammable chemical. Use with caution and handle it properly.

I am not trying to sound like a negative doomsayer. You say be bold and go for, I saying from the perspective of a fuel dragster driver being bold has it's limits.

Tom

[FordsnFishin]

The clear is on and is baking in the sun. 

 

Overall,  everything went pretty well. Was a learning curve for sure. But the last 1/4 of the boat was probably the best.

 

Several things now that I would do different next time. But overall im happy so far. 

 

Lots of orange peel in her. So I've got a lot of work to do with 1000, 1500 grit wet sanding and buffing ahead of me. But I think she should turn out well. 

[Ski213]

Kudos for taking a swing at it. Looking good in the pics. 

[Way2slow]

If I remember your job has to do with spraying paint, but I'm gonna throw this in anyway.  When start color sanding and buffing it out BE CAREFUL.  Most of these custom shops put as many as six or more coats of clear on to allow for color sanding.  It's also extremely easy to burn the clear, most will put tape over the sharper edges to help protect from sanding through and burning them with the buffer. 

I think Harbor Freight sells a cheap 3" size pneumatic buffer.  One that size is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to doing those smaller surfaces on the top of the cap that a 6" buffer gets hard to control in.

[J Francho]

I guess I wouldn't be too worried about orange peel with those results.  Looks pretty good.

[FordsnFishin]

14 hours ago, Way2slow said:

If I remember your job has to do with spraying paint, but I'm gonna throw this in anyway.  When start color sanding and buffing it out BE CAREFUL.  Most of these custom shops put as many as six or more coats of clear on to allow for color sanding.  It's also extremely easy to burn the clear, most will put tape over the sharper edges to help protect from sanding through and burning them with the buffer. 

I think Harbor Freight sells a cheap 3" size pneumatic buffer.  One that size is worth it's weight in gold when it comes to doing those smaller surfaces on the top of the cap that a 6" buffer gets hard to control in.

I ain't no painter! Ibew 146, I'm an electrician. King of the tradies! Hahaha 

 

The 3 inch buffer is a fantastic idea.  In fact I decided to pick one up on my way home earlier. Will probably use it for the whole job as my 7 inch buffer will probably just make things difficult. I like that that pneumatic buffer has variable speeds. 

 

Did a quick test area earlier,  wet sand with 800, 1000, 1200 than a quick buff. Extremely happy with how its going to look. 

[Way2slow]

Your last comment gave me cold chills.  7" and not variable speed makes it sound like you are using a 7" side grinder as a buffer.  If that's the case, DON'T DO THAT.  The rpm they turn will destroy that new clear coat you just put all that work into.    You need a buffer, one that's variable speed and will go down to 1,300 or so rpm.  The foam pads work great for compounds and polishes, then use on of the big wool pads to buff it for the final shine. 

 

Now, you might think, what's that going to hurt, the little 3" is turning a couple thousand.  The difference is the diameter.  The outer edge of that 7" is traveling a whole lot faster than the outer edge of that little three inch.  

[FordsnFishin]

Haha, no my 7" is a variable speed. It's what I normally use for cars. 

 

I was saying that the little 3" would be handy cause it's smaller and also has the variable speed.