Rationale for Choosing Dropshot Weights/Styles

[BassThumb]

I’d like to know what goes on inside of people’s heads when they’re choosing their dropshot weights for LMB/SMB on spinning tackle and relatively light line. 

 

I’ve settled on using 3/8-1/2oz round ‘line pinch’ weights for rocks and 1/4-3/8oz cylindrical tie-on weights for fishing around weeds. 

 

Please share your methods for choosing weights.

 

 

[BadBassWV]

I let the wind dictate what I use for weight. If the wind blows a big bow in the line and I can't keep contact with the bait I will go heavier. I always use the lightest weight possible. I adjust when I lose contact with the bait go heavier when I  can't work it Like I want.

[Quarry Man]

I carry a lot of different weights and styles, and believe it or not, its fairly straight forward for me!

 

 You have several compositions: lead, steel, or tungsten

-  I use lead when I am breaking off a lot because it is much cheaper. Steel when I am not allowed to use lead, like in the Northeastern USA and I am breaking off a lot. Tungsten is my go-to, as it is the smallest and most sensitive.

 

you also have several styles of weights: ball/round, skinny/cylindrical, and teardrop

- I use round around rocks, it just comes through better and has more surface area for added sensitivity. Skinny for vertical weeds, because the weights come through much better, and teardrop are like a combo of them both. They come through rocks and weeds well, but not perfectly, so if you are fishing around both, choose a teardrop weight.

 

you now have to choose what weight to use: 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, & 1/2

- I use 1/16 in 0'-4', 1/8, in 5'-8', and so on. If its windy, I go up a size to hold bottom better.

 

I drop shot a lot, and it is therefore worth it for me to carry a ton of weights. If I were just starting out, I'd get two packs of 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 in lead, and experiment with tungsten if you are willing/at that point

[A-Jay]

22 minutes ago, Quarry Man said:

I carry a lot of different weights and styles, and believe it or not, its fairly straight forward for me!

 

 You have several compositions: lead, steel, or tungsten

-  I use lead when I am breaking off a lot because it is much cheaper. Steel when I am not allowed to use lead, like in the Northeastern USA and I am breaking off a lot. Tungsten is my go-to, as it is the smallest and most sensitive.

 

you also have several styles of weights: ball/round, skinny/cylindrical, and teardrop

- I use round around rocks, it just comes through better and has more surface area for added sensitivity. Skinny for vertical weeds, because the weights come through much better, and teardrop are like a combo of them both. They come through rocks and weeds well, but not perfectly, so if you are fishing around both, choose a teardrop weight.

 

you now have to choose what weight to use: 1/16, 1/8, 3/16, 1/4, 5/16, 3/8, & 1/2

- I use 1/16 in 0'-4', 1/8, in 5'-8', and so on. If its windy, I go up a size to hold bottom better.

 

I drop shot a lot, and it is therefore worth it for me to carry a ton of weights. If I were just starting out, I'd get two packs of 1/16, 1/8, and 1/4 in lead, and experiment with tungsten if you are willing/at that point

Nicely done.

This covers it for me as well; except for the lead band part.

A-Jay

[Chance_Taker4]

I keep it simple. I just use tungsten cylindrical weight. As for weight it ranges from 1/8-3/8.

[J Francho]

I prefer a round weight, and I prefer lead because it's bigger.  For whatever the reason, they hang up less where I fish.  Plus, you don't get the false positive thump when it falls over when you do the lift and drop thing.  I start at 1/2 oz. and go up to an ounce.  Sound heavy?  Yeah, I'm fishing 30' or more, and I do not want the rig to move until I move it.  I still use ML and M spinning gear.  It doesn't matter because I'm mostly pitching it a short distance from the boat, or just dropping it over the side.

[Harold Scoggins]

1 hour ago, J Francho said:

I prefer a round weight

Yes

[wisconsin heat]

I do a lot of dropshotting from shore, when I do I use a size 4 or similar size removable split shot. They are super cheap so it doesn't hurt when you lose them. And they work just fine. I do have some cylinder drop shooting weights in various sizes if I do ever stray away from the bank.

[MN Fisher]

I'm a cheap bugger by necessity, so I use what I have. Baticasting weights (teardrop with the brass loop at the top) in 1/8 - 1/2 oz depending on depth/wind/etc.

[Fishes in trees]

I like the cylinder weights.  They seem to get stuck less for me.  As I tend to "Bubba Sot" more than a finesse approach I nearly always throw a half ounce weight - the notion being that the drop shot is a bottom oriented approach and half ounce gets me to the bottom asap.  I have a couple of rigs that are excellent for drop shot fishing,  I just don't use them that much, probably because I think that if a finesse drop shot approach is working, a shaky head or a slider worm or a ned rig will work just as well or better.   Once I get spanked a few times by a drop shot expert, I'll probably change my mind, but that hasn't happened yet.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[ww2farmer]

I have gone to all dark colored tungsten and all tear drop shape for spinning tackle/light line drop shot....specifically the Swagger Tackle "Vader" series. 1/4, 3/8, and 1/2 oz.

 

The reasons:

 

#1- the smaller dark colored weights give me more confidence

 

#2- tear drop are the best of both worlds for me...come through cover better than round, and transmit more feel than pencil.

 

#3- my size selection is based on depth, wind, and application. For example, if it's slick calm and I'm pitching a drop shot out along a deep weed line, I'll opt for 1/4...if the wind gets up a little, I'll go to 3/8's. If I'm doing a "drift and drag" or dropping straight down I use 1/2.

 

I have ALWAYS bubba shotted with tungsten, but I don't use pre-made drop shot weights for this. I use regular worm/flipping weights. On my drop line I will slide a bobber stop on, then (if I want a 1/2 oz weight) a 1/4 oz sinker nose up, then a small bead, then a 1/4 oz sinker nose down, then another bobber stop (to protect the knot I use to keep the rig together) then tie a small split ring to the bottom to hold all this on. If I want 1oz, I use two 1/2 oz sinkers...and so on and so forth. The reason I went to the 2 sinker system rather than just one bigger sinker is:

 

#1- I get more bits with the those 2 weights "clicking" against each other or the bead. 

 

#2- with a pointy end up and another one down, the whole thing slips in and out of cover better.