A couple beginner questions

[teabag259]

I’ve gotten back into fishing since last summer/fall and have learned a great deal since then. I watch videos and try to talk to experienced fishermen when I can.   There are a couple areas that I have questions. 

 

 How much does it matter what action rod I use? Right now I only use spinning reels and don’t have any baitcasters yet. I’m trying different varieties of fishing trying to get any bites that I can.  I have a medium heavy rod and 10 pound test on my reel.   I have seen videos which talk about the rod and was wondering if it is really significant having different action rod‘s when trying different techniques. For example I saw a recently that if you were fishing a Ned rig you want to use a light or moderate action rod and very light test (4-6 lb). On the flipside of that I said I have seen videos where it is stated that with chatter bait or large spinners you want a heavier action rod and heavier test.  Does it matter what action rod and test if I’m fishing a Carolina or Texas Rig?

 

Another dumb question...what is the difference between fluorocarbon and monofilament line?  When would you want braided line?

 

Could someone explain to me the purpose behind and the reasons for the necessity for a leader? Is it just for ease of switching lures or is there a more practical reason for them? As an aside I have a physical handicap due to a work injury where I have extremely limited use of my right hand. I have difficulty tying knots and even some difficulty sometimes getting a hook out of the fishes mouth due to my lack of dexterity in my fingers. For this reason I am somewhat reluctant to use lures with treble hooks. Would using a leader make my life a little easier because I would only have to theoretically tie one knot per use of that rod?

 

Thanks for any help here everyone. 

[MN Fisher]

1) You're more talking the power of the rod. Rod power is: Ultra-light, Light, Medium-light, Medium, Medium-Heavy, Heavy, Extra-heavy, etc. This is the 'backbone' of the rod and determines what lures can be thrown (should be some printing showing preferred lure-weight ranges)

 

Action is Extra-fast, Fast, Moderate-fast, Moderate, Slow. This is how the rod bends under load. Extra-fast does the majority of it's bending in the top of the rod before the rest of the rod follows suit. Slow rods bend along more of their length.

 

2) What's your reel model...it could be a good match for the MH rod you have.

 

3) Yes, Ned-rigs, Drop-shots and other finesse techniques work better on Light or Medium-light rods with low-pound test line. They're more finicky to work and need the lighter touch.

 

4) Fluorocarbon line is more dense than Monofilament, so it sinks. It's also (supposedly) less 'stretchy' and more abrasion resistant...though the jury is still out on that first one. For deeper diving lures, it's a good choice as the line helps keep the lure down rather than being pulled up a bit by floating line.

 

5) I use braid for heavier lures (1/2 oz or greater chatter/buzz/spinner baits, heavier T-rigs, etc). For that I'm using 20# Power Pro Spectra. I also have braid for 'weed intensive' techniques; Flipping, pitching, punching and tossing frogs into holes in heavy weed-beds. For this I have 50# Power Pro so I can haul the fish out through the weeds without worrying too much about the line breaking.

 

6. I don't use a leader on any of my rigs, and I have 'issues' tying knots but for a different reason...I only have one working eye. I'm sure others will come in to state their preferences on leader/no-leader. It will not stop you from having to retie though...you're just tying to the leader instead of the main line. If you want to switch lures, you still cut off and tie on the new one.

[roadwarrior]

 

[JG233]

Is there a line selection basics thread? 

 

I think I'm ready to move on from copolymers. 

[LionHeart]

A lot to discuss here so I will just share what I have learned about rod action.  The chart MN Fisher posted says it all.  Why does action matter?  You will want the tip section of a rod to behave differently depending on the lure you are using, and to a extent, the area you are fishing.

 

Just for example, compare jigs and crankbaits.  You would typically want a more moderate rod tip for crankbaits because they have smaller hooks.  Because of this, the rod tip need not be as stout because setting a small hook takes less force.  Another consideration is that small treble hooks are typically easier for a bass to shake free if the tip of the rod isn't constantly bent and applying pressure.  This is easier to achieve with a rod tip that has quite a bit of bend like a moderate action.

 

The opposite of that would be a jig rod.  People typically prefer a jig rod to have anywhere from a moderate fast, to even an extra fast tip.  The idea is that since a jig hook is much larger than a treble hook, having a rod with a faster action let's you reach the muscle of the rod sooner when you have the task of setting a big jig hook through a bass's mouth.  

 

Hook setting and fish fighting aside, many techniques are easier to perform when the rod you are using can assist in imparting the proper action to a lure.  Much of that will come down to preference.  For instance, I prefer a pretty moderate rod action for working a top water popper while others will prefer a bit faster tip.  Again, just preference.  Hope some of that was helpful man.

[Black Hawk Basser]

I think the "leaders" you are talking about are wire leaders with a snap at the end.  You won't want to use those when bass fishing.  If you want to change lures without tying another knot, use duo lock snaps or Mustad Fastach.  I use the duo lock snaps with crankbaits, and sometimes topwaters.

 

One way to try different lures without retying would be to put on a extra wide gap 3/0 hook for a Texas rig, and just change plastics until you find something that works at that moment.

[teabag259]

I have a 13 Fishing 2000X spinning reel. 

 

Thanks for all the replies thus far guys. It has been helpful.  

[new2BC4bass]

4 hours ago, JG233 said:

Is there a line selection basics thread? 

Not that I am aware of.  Line type and poundage is pretty much a personal thing.  There are some techniques where a vast majority would be in agreement...such as braid in heavy weeds and lily pads.  However, there are some that don't use braid in this instance, but use a heavier mono/fluoro/co-polymer with success.  So....no hard and fast rules.

 

Quote

I think I'm ready to move on from copolymers. 

Why?  Personally I prefer Co-Polymers.

 

Edit:  Read TackleTours fluorocarbon reviews.  Most fluorocarbon lines have plenty of stretch.  I have limited fluorocarbon experience, but the line I was using stretched worse than many monos.  It also required cutting off another few feet of line once I was able to break it...due to the damaged cause by its stretching.

[JG233]

I mostly want a different line for my baitcaster. I'm using PLine Cxx 15 lb test and I think it's pretty terrible. Maybe I just need to try another copoly. 

[new2BC4bass]

2 minutes ago, JG233 said:

I mostly want a different line for my baitcaster. I'm using PLine Cxx 15 lb test and I think it's pretty terrible. Maybe I just need to try another copoly. 

For better handling co-polymers try McCoy, AN40 and XXX.  CXX is known for its abrasion resistance.  Like Izorline Platinum (another excellent abrasive resistant line).  This abrasion resistance comes at a price.  Manageability.  I put 12# Platinum on my daughter's baitcast reel because she likes to fish Senkos pretty much exclusively.  Her reel now has 12# Siege.  She hasn't complained of memory problems since.  It handles much better.

[JG233]

Thanks @new2BC4bass - is PLine Cx possibly a better option for the baitcaster? I don't want to sacrifice sensitivity by moving to mono. Thanks!

[new2BC4bass]

3 hours ago, JG233 said:

Thanks @new2BC4bass - is PLine Cx possibly a better option for the baitcaster? I don't want to sacrifice sensitivity by moving to mono. Thanks!

I have some CXX to try, but haven't used it yet.  I did like how CX handled on my baitcast reel.

 

I put 8# CX on my first baitcast reel.  Line broke down in the spool.  Now that could...and may very well...have been caused by backlashes while learning.   I'd be willing to try CX again now that I'm much better with a baitcast reel.

 

My go to line weights are 8# on Medium rods and 12# on MH rods.  I have 3000 yard spools of AN40 in each.  However, I do like trying other lines.  I use Siege (a mono) on several and like it.  Especially in Neon

Tangerine.    Liked what I've read about McCoy Mean Green and XXX so I am trying both.

 

It is a mono, but I have been read some good things about Sufix Advance.  Diameters are larger than some monos.  A partial quote from one review. "...enhanced castability, reduced line memory, unrivaled knot strength and 50 percent lower stretch and UV absorption than standard monofilament."