how to size bills on crank baits. schematics ... Crank Baits....

[John Kolmar]

           NEED HELP::::—>PLEASE

   I’ve never marked or noted on any of my crank baits, how far that dive. Is there a general  schematics to help me? I’ve sorta got them sized into 3 categories...  escalated only. 

   Deep 15+ft, 8-15 ft & 2-8 ft. But I’d like to be more precise. Thanks for any help. 

[Smokinal]

You definitely need to be more precise.

8-15 is a huge range. And even though 2-8 is a smaller difference numerically, it's actually a more important difference when fishing a crankbait.

 

I'd suggest, if you can, go to BPS or Cabelas and just spend some time in the CB isle looking at baits. Study their bill configuration vs what the advertised diving range is; you'll start to see a pattern after you look at a few.

 

Then, after you have a handle on bill types, shapes and sizes, do a little research on line diameter and line types as this can and will change the depth a CB will reach.

[scaleface]

Its not easy   to know how deep each crankbait dives .There is not a chart that I have found and I have looked . 8 foot and below there are a lot of crankbaits that will work . I  like for the crankbait to hit bottom  but not dig to hard in it . So if the depth is 15 foot a lure with a maximum depth of 15 foot is not what I pick . I'll go with one that dives deeper . Berkely dredgers dive to their advertised depth with 12 lb mono so that made crankbait selection easy for me. They have a tight action and dont wear a person out like a lot of deep divers do .

[Fishes in trees]

You're just starting on a very convoluted topic.  Lots of things impact on how deep a crank bait can get on any given cast, and all the different variables can affect each other.  For starters - line test (be aware that different lines rated the same test will/might have different diameters which effects diving depth).  Next - casting distance, i.e. how far can you throw any given bait, given the gear that you've got.

 

The angle of the bill is important, the weight of the bait is important, the length of the bill is important.  Any weights embedded in the bill?  That is a consideration also.   Gear that you're throwing with?  In general, longer rods give you better leverage that lets you throw any given crank farther, but not always.

 

How deep do you need to get?   A common situation that I face is that I want to get a fairly large crank 8 to 12 feet down, banking off horizontal limbs, fairly close to the main trunk of trees.   Any number of crank baits on the market will get you 8 to 12 feet down - on lightish line ( 10 to 12 or so).  A decent fish hits that bait on that line and it is a foot and a half or so away from a solid vertical object.  You're going to lose cranks doing this.   I solve this problem by throwing a DC16 Timber Tiger ( which are designed to go through brush & trees) on 17 or 20 lb line, which is much more resistant to breaking when Ms Bass starts to go around a tree.

 

Good luck to figuring out & understanding cranks.  There are many articles out there which help some - so do your research.   As far as the cranks you've already got - trial and error.

 

There is quite a bit about cranks that is gear related - so get ready to SPEND SOME MONEY.  Crankbait specific rods help - somewhat.   Crank specific reels help - somewhat.  There are cranking situations where spinning gear is more appropriate than bait casting gear.  For instance, try throwing size 7 Shad Raps in a moderate wind any direction except down wind, with bait casting gear.

Have we mentioned trolling yet?  I have buddies who are allergic to the idea of casting cranks - to them crank baits

(especially the lighter, shad shaped longer billed ones) are strictly trolling baits and who would want to cast one?

 

The more you learn and understand about cranks, the better chance you've got of catching fish regularly on them.

 

Hope this helped.