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Posted

I was just wondering how you guys set the hook with lipless crankbait or do  set the hook at all?The reason I ask is I was fishing earlier with no luck at all and finally got a strike.I set the hook pretty hard out of habit cause I fish soft plastics and jigs a lot and I ended up getting my line caught up in my split ring on my hook and lost the fish pretty quick.I'm wondering if this is something I could have prevented by setting the hook properly or just one of those things that just happens.

  • Super User
Posted

If I'm fishing crankbaits - lipless or not - or jerkbaits...anything with trebles really...I'll set the hook with a medium sweep to the side instead of a hard 'haul' vertically. If the hooks are good quality and sharp enough, a medium strength sweep is plenty to set them.

  • Like 1
Posted

Thanks for the advice. I never thought of setting them to the side I can see where it would be helpful I will try this next time out 

  • Super User
Posted

I'll tell you what I do but would first like to premise it by saying I usually throwing Rattle baits on a moderate composite rod with 12-20lb fluorocarbon line.

 

Most all my crankbait hooked fish get the same treatment, especially if they are being caught on the rig described above;  

Once the strike is detected I keep reeling and as I feel the rod load & the weight of the fish, there is a hook set.

However it happens while I'm still reeling (unless the fish is taking drag) and it's not nearly as pronounced as when setting up on a bass that ate a jig, soft plastic or other not constantly moving /  non- horizontal presented single hook presentation. Comparably, sort of happens in slow motion.

:smiley:

A-Jay

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Posted

A soft hookset is ideal. Don't overthink it though. Vertical or horizontal, just don't set it too hard and you'll be fine. If the line is slipping between split ring you may want to switch to a different knot that cinches down tighter. Which one are you using?

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

 

Replacing stock line ties with either oval or tear drop shaped split rings will all but eliminate the line from slipping between the rings 

 

A-Jay

 

410065.jpg4186_tear_drop_split_ring-500x345.jpg

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
Posted

I fish lipless crankbaits and squarebills on moderate fast action rods, or a rod that is labeled as fast action but is more parabolic than a true fast action. When I get hit, I reel into the fish, and when the rod loads, I give a soft pull and keep them pinned. I never fish these baits on a true fast action, and I never set the hook traditionally/hard.

Posted
32 minutes ago, EGbassing said:

A soft hookset is ideal. Don't overthink it though. Vertical or horizontal, just don't set it too hard and you'll be fine. If the line is slipping between split ring you may want to switch to a different knot that cinches down tighter. Which one are you using?

I'm using the improved clinch knot I've never had this problem before tho but I was rushing to tie it on tho.

21 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

 

Replacing stock line ties with either oval or tear drop shaped split rings will all but eliminate the line from slipping between the rings 

 

A-Jay

 

410065.jpg4186_tear_drop_split_ring-500x345.jpg

Thank you for the advice I had no idea they made these lol

45 minutes ago, A-Jay said:

I'll tell you what I do but would first like to premise it by saying I usually throwing Rattle baits on a moderate composite rod with 12-20lb fluorocarbon line.

 

Most all my crankbait hooked fish get the same treatment, especially if they are being caught on the rig described above;  

Once the strike is detected I keep reeling and as I feel the rod load & the weight of the fish, there is a hook set.

However it happens while I'm still reeling (unless the fish is taking drag) and it's not nearly as pronounced as when setting up on a bass that ate a jig, soft plastic or other not constantly moving /  non- horizontal presented single hook presentation. Comparably, sort of happens in slow motion.

:smiley:

A-Jay

Thank you for your input it's appreciated 

  • Like 1
Posted

What kind of rod are you using (power and action)? Specifically what type of line are you using? Depending on your answers that will help better instruct you.

  • Super User
Posted

I don't need to "set the hook", when your hooks are razor sharp the fish hooks itself.

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, Fishin' Fool said:

What kind of rod are you using (power and action)? Specifically what type of line are you using? Depending on your answers that will help better instruct you.

I was using a 7ft meduim heavy with moderate action it was the only rod I had on hand at the time usually I use a 6ft6 meduim with a fast tip for lipless cranks 

Posted
2 minutes ago, Jhodge4719 said:

I was using a 7ft meduim heavy with moderate action it was the only rod I had on hand at the time usually I use a 6ft6 meduim with a fast tip for lipless cranks 

What type of line? Braid? Fluorocarbon? Mono? Mono has the most stretch and might require the most hook set. Personally i think reeling down into the bite is best for the moderate rod that you mentioned.

Posted
1 hour ago, Fishin' Fool said:

What type of line? Braid? Fluorocarbon? Mono? Mono has the most stretch and might require the most hook set. Personally i think reeling down into the bite is best for the moderate rod that you mentioned.

It was 12lb mono 

Posted

I hold my rod differently than when I'm fishing a jig or a T-rig soft plastic. I keep the rod tip perpendicular  to the water and slightly off to my strong side. My hook set is more of a sweep to that side. I hook about half of my catches in the tongue/ bottom lip area and they tend to stay hooked better there than on the side of the mouth.

  • Super User
Posted

Strikes on a lipless should hook the fish by themselves but as I'm reeling a quick wrist jerk of the rod will usually give me the confidence that the fish is on pretty good.

 

I'm using a med hvy/ mod fast action rod with mono (this year) 8-12 lbs test depending how deep I want to fish.

 

Split rings can be a pain, but I still use them, just gotta make sure your not tying to 2 wire ring ends and tie to the opposite side. I've done the oval rings and snaps and for some reason went back to split rings. No rhyme or reason, just did it.

Posted

Long smooth sweeping hookset from 11 o'clock to about 3 o'clock,   

Posted
15 hours ago, Jhodge4719 said:

I'm using the improved clinch knot I've never had this problem before tho but I was rushing to tie it on tho.

You may want to switch to a palomar. They cinch down tightly and it's one of the strongest knots you can use. Plus when you pull the tag end to tighten it down it doesn't burn your line at all like other knots do. Good luck. ?

  • Super User
Posted

At some point, shortly after the strike, you will want to get a firm pull in - in the opposite direction that the fish is swimming.   I think that any more than that and you run the risk of yanking the bait out of the mouth.   I throw a minimum of 17 lb mono or co-poly and I often use 20.  IMO 12lb is a little light to throw lipless cranks with but if you haven't had any issues, don't change it.  I like heavier line for yanking the bait free of weeds, brush, ect.

Posted

Since the bass aggressively hit a lipless you don't need to try to rip their lips off, just a nice firm yank taking into account line stretch depending on what you're using.  I go straight braid so often times I just give the rod a quick but firm pull and it seems to do the trick.

Posted

7' Med/Mod rod, 30lb braid, sharp hooks, steady retrieve, low rod angle, lift to load when in doubt works for me. No real hooksets involved as they'll hook themselves. Maybe one of those big ones that swim up from behind and do the suck and spit out tricks me? So much submerged obstacles in the waters I like to fish, hooksets usually lead to snags.

 

Only other thing I do is set my drag to 2.25lbs or so and don't go MLF on them. 

Posted
21 hours ago, Revival said:

Out of curiosity, what lipless crank were you using?  Stock hooks?

I was using bill lewis ratl trap but the hooks were some I put on that I got from ebay no brand on them or nothing but they were extremely sharp and string tho 

I really appreciate everyone's advice.I used some of the tips on here today and this time I nailed a pretty good one and got those hooks set perfect 

  • Like 2
  • Global Moderator
Posted

If I'm using a straight retrieve I just sweep into them. If I'm ripping it and they hit on the drop I smack them pretty hard. 

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