kayak - pvc hull protector

[crankbait2009]

With me having a new kayak, that has not yet been broken in, I need to protect the hull before it's too late.

 

On my last kayak, I used it for about a year before I placed any protector on the front/rear hull.  I purchased the keel eazy protector, that in my opinion, was a waste of money, not to mention expensive.  It took me no time at all to plow through it which left my front hull exposed to dragging damage.  So I will not be going that route again.  Granted, my kayak weighed a 100 pounds empty, but still.

 

With my new kayak topping out at 57 pounds empty, I'm hoping the damage will be much less.  In order to help this, I have been considering going the pvc pipe method.  There is a video on YT (see below) that shows the pvc pipe getting cut in half, heated up to lay flat, and then laid over the hull of the kayak to take shape.  Once cut to length/size, taken shape, and adhered to the hull, it looks pretty strong and should last a long time.

 

I am not very crafty with a lot of things.  So prefabbing something like this concerns me.  Mainly due to the possibility of warping the hull of the kayak.  They mention in the video to keep the hull surface cold with an ice/water towel to prevent this.  But still.  I'm not sure how much heat it can withstand before you are SOL.  I certainly don't want it to look like A$$ either.

 

If I do this, I'd most likely get the electrical conduit (grey) so I wouldn't have an obnoxious white piece on my black/grey/red kayak.  I could paint the white pvc, but paint would be scratched off in no time.  So grey it is.

 

Has anyone done this PVC pipe method?  I'm interested to hear what has, and has not worked for you on your kayak, or even canoe hulls.

I'd love to be able to paint a hull protector on that wouldn't come off, but I'm not quite sure you can avoid it with anything that is painted on.

 

Here is the video that I am referring to

 

 

 

[J Francho]

Or don't drag it on pavement.  I've never added any extra protection to the hulls of my kayaks.

[crankbait2009]

Can always count on you to respond

 

Now, when I say drag, we're talking 3-4 ft.  A lot of the damage was when I first purchased the kayak.  It was me trying to figure out what to/not to do when loading.  A lot of the damage was due to the concrete boat ramp.  I'd wheel it down to the water, and the last few feet, I'd set it down and push from the rear.  So a 100 lbs + (with gear) on the nose did some damage.  Which is my biggest reason for going lighter in weight.  Now I should be able to do a lot of maneuvering without doing the drag method.  BUT, I'd like to protect it just in case.  It would be nice to have a grassy/dirt bank to launch from, but all my fishing waters have concrete at the launch spots.

[J Francho]

All i do is put a bath mat down.  Then I hook up the dolly, load up, and wheel it down to the water's edge.  Sort of forgot about the bath mat, maybe that's a better plan.  Been a long winter.

[crankbait2009]

Certainly a cheaper method.

[J Francho]

Sometimes I use the floor mat from the back seat of the truck, too. 

[SwimJiggin]

I have 13.5 yak with a pedal drive. Add to it the gear that I only use 10% of and it’s heavy. I use an old Jon boat trailer and load it like a boat. My legs get wet, and if it’s cold I throw a pair of waders on when I load it back on.

I was thinking that some ramps have chunk rock on the banks. So, I can see where you got to put in on concrete. Hopefully, you can get some suggestions, and won’t have to touch your hull. I’d like to read some more suggestions too. 

[flyfisher]

if you have a cart just wheel it all the way in to where it is floating.  I don't try and drag my kayak on concrete boat ramps but it happens and i haven't noticed any ill effects to be honest.  

[Hawkeye21]

I try to avoid dragging mine on cement or rocks as much as possible.  I always try to find a grass area to back up to and unload.  If I must unload on cement then I put my C-Tug under it.