Braid to Flouro reccomendations

[B-Ray]

What have you found to be some of the best combinations of braid to flouro line combinations for smallmouth bass in extremely clear water?   I'm planning to re-rig most of my spinning outfits this Spring and looking for recommendations on the pound test for each that seems to work well together (knot sticks, but doesn't break) and even which brands you've had consistent success with.

[Choporoz]

18# Gliss to Yo-Zuri Hybrid leader on all of my spinning rods at this time.   Leaders are 6, 8 10 # test, all tied with Alberto knot.  

[A-Jay]

Hello and Welcome to Bass Resource ~ 

I've tried quite a few on my spinning gear, with various levels of satisfaction & results.

I keep coming back to and am currently using Sufix 832 in 10 - 20 lb test.

For me, it has the right combination of size, strength, manageability, durability, predictability, consistency & $$.

Leader type & size varies depending on application but includes 6-12 lb mono (Big Game) & 6-10 lb Flourocarbon (Seaguar Tatsu, Invisx & AbrasX.)

And despite the plethora of braid to nylon connection knots used, I have been using a uni knot to uni knot connection for a long time.

In both salt & freshwater application, the uni-uni is strong, small enough & easy to tie while offering what I'd consider at least an average level of effectiveness & success.

YMMV

I purchased my first spool of 20 lb Power Pro Maxcuatro Spectra Braided Line Moss Green to try this spring.

Initial impressions are good; seems very thin & manageable for it's test. 

We'll see. 

 

A-Jay 

[bwjay]

Take this with a grain of salt, because it's just what I've read. People say 'walking the dog' is easier with stretchy fluoro or mono and more difficult with straight braid or stiff fluoro. The stretch of mono/strechy fluoro should theoretically be a little more forgiving for snags too. I picked up some Sunline Sniper FC 10lb as a leader for 10-20lb braid.

 

As for connecting, I still have yet to succeed at tying what I believe to be a strong connection knot. Historically I have always used swivels which makes tying the leader super easy with strong Palomar knots, which I am very confident in. Historically I have not been a bass-focused fisherman and do things like vertical jigging, trolling cranks and spoons, throwing spinners and lipless, for walleye and lake trout mostly, so maybe I don't know the disadvantages of the swivel, besides reduced sensitivity. I thought my setup was plenty sensitive last year, feeling every rock that my lipless bumped into, feeling my jig dragging on the bottom. Probably nowhere near the sensitivity people get from premium rods and reels but it was good enough for me, I thought. I will probably continue to use swivels for my applications, but I am still going to practice tying braid to fluoro so I can test it in the field, likely with a blood knot that I have been trying. Other than sensitivity though I just can't think of a reason not to use a swivel which also makes my life easier for tying knots.

[MickD]

Braid to flouro with a double uni is easy and very reliable.  While you're watching TV practice.  I'll bet when you do your "wraps" you are not going over both lines with the wraps.  Inside the loops.   I think that's about the only mistake, other than not wetting when setting the knots, that there is to make with the double uni.  

 

I prefer knots to swivels since I can have a longer FC section without worrying about winding it into the tiptop.

 

this video is very clear, but it does not mention wetting the knot before tightening it.  That is very important with any knot.

[Fishin' Fool]

Sunline SX1 16 lb braid to a 7 lb Sunline Sniper fluorocarbon leader about 6 to 7 feet in length. I'm also a fan of the double uni knot. No issues with knot failure.

[CroakHunter]

I'm a fan of 15lb daiwa j-braid x4 with an 8lb seaguar red label leader connected with an Alberto. This year I'm going to test straight fluoro or copoly on my spinning set ups starting out. 6lb hi seas to be exact

[Fishin' Fool]

25 minutes ago, CroakHunter said:

I'm a fan of 15lb daiwa j-braid x4 with an 8lb seaguar red label leader connected with an Alberto. This year I'm going to test straight fluoro or copoly on my spinning set ups starting out. 6lb hi seas to be exact

Hope that works for you. I tried a few years back and no matter the fluorocarbon or co-poly I struggled with line twists and then subsequent bird nests. 

[A-Jay]

53 minutes ago, Fishin' Fool said:

Hope that works for you. I tried a few years back and no matter the fluorocarbon or co-poly I struggled with line twists and then subsequent bird nests. 

Same here ~ 

A-Jay

[Glenn]

Never have I ever had problems with line twist on spinning reels.  Seriously.  And I don't use braid or leaders on spinning reels.

[MN Fisher]

11 minutes ago, Glenn said:

Never have I ever had problems with line twist on spinning reels.  Seriously.  And I don't use braid or leaders on spinning reels.

I don't suffer line twist on my spinners either. Of course I'm a little OCD when it comes to my reels

BC - Braid

Spin - FC or Mono

 

And never the twain shall meet. I don't use leaders on any of my rigs either.

[A-Jay]

20 minutes ago, Glenn said:

Never have I ever had problems with line twist on spinning reels.  Seriously.  And I don't use braid or leaders on spinning reels.

 

6 minutes ago, MN Fisher said:

I don't suffer line twist on my spinners either. Of course I'm a little OCD when it comes to my reels

BC - Braid

Spin - FC or Mono

 

And never the twain shall meet. I don't use leaders on any of my rigs either.

@Fishin' Fool ~ Guess you & I need to be learning sum stuph ~

A-Jay

 

[Way north bass guy]

I’ve been using Suffix 832 in 10-20lb on my spinning rods, with Berkley 100% fluorocarbon for a leader and an Alberto knot and never once had any issues with knot failure, but you have to make certain the knot ( whatever type you choose), is tied correctly or you’ll have problems. I will say that most of my spinning outfits have only straight fluorocarbon on them and I don’t have much for twist issues, the braid to fluoro rigs I use mainly for jerkbaits and a few other lure types. 

[Fishin' Fool]

20 minutes ago, Glenn said:

Never have I ever had problems with line twist on spinning reels.  Seriously.  And I don't use braid or leaders on spinning reels.

No to get too far from the OP topic. I understand that if you start your cast by reeling vs flipping the bail it's supposed to increase line twist. I don't do that and I still would get the line twist.

[Darren.]

Welcome aboard!

 

For all my setups, I use braid + leader. Obviously we all roll

differently on that topic, some braid only, or no braid at all.

 

You are pretty safe going with 10 or 15# braid on spinning,

20 would be the max for me, and only on a larger reel. As it

stands for me, I fish 1000 size Shimano Stradics for all my

bass and striper fishing. Most are now spooled with 15#

PowerPro Super Slick 8 (got a deal on a 1500 yard spool), 

but I used 10 before that.

 

The Uni-to-Uni is easy, and I have 100% confidence in it, as

well as the mod'd Albright/Alberto, and the Shin Fukae knot

which I've been using lately.

 

Leader material I use: Yo-Zuri Hybrid in 6, 8, 10 and Gamma 

Edge fluoro in 6, 8, 10.

 

Here's Shin's knot.

 

[LxVE Bassin]

15# Daiwa J-Braid x8 to #8 Yo-zuri topknot flouro. I use the Albright knot for the connection. Never had issues and it won’t break the bank.

[bassboy107]

I have never had problems with 15lb Power Pro to 6lb flouro (Berkley 100%, seaguar red label) connected with an albright Knot. Never had a problem with uni-to-uni, I just find the albright faster and easier to tie

[Glenn]

7 hours ago, Fishin' Fool said:

No to get too far from the OP topic. I understand that if you start your cast by reeling vs flipping the bail it's supposed to increase line twist. I don't do that and I still would get the line twist.

Yes, that's an essential part of it.  But there's more to it than that.  Aside from spooling it on correctly (which it seems many think that's the ONLY thing), you must follow these best practices as well:

 

 

[MickD]

17 hours ago, CroakHunter said:

I'm a fan of 15lb daiwa j-braid x4 with an 8lb seaguar red label leader connected with an Alberto. This year I'm going to test straight fluoro or copoly on my spinning set ups starting out. 6lb hi seas to be exact

FC is the most expensive line of all.  Because we keep trying to find one that works well and in the process we buy a dozen, take them all off, then buy some more.  Lots of partial spools left.  None on the reels.  Good that you are going that light.  Might work.  But you will be losing sensitivity.

[QUAKEnSHAKE]

Going over 10 pound braid seems to be a waste to me. It will hold to 14-15 pounds with a good knot. Will cast better than 15 or 20 pound. If always using a lighter leader say 6-8 pounds this is where the wasted extra strength comes into play. 

[jimmyjoe]

20 hours ago, Glenn said:

Never have I ever had problems with line twist on spinning reels.  Seriously.  And I don't use braid or leaders on spinning reels.

   Who are you? What did you do with Glenn? Bring him back! Bring him back!   ??   JJ

[Choporoz]

20 hours ago, Fishin' Fool said:

No to get too far from the OP topic. I understand that if you start your cast by reeling vs flipping the bail it's supposed to increase line twist. 

I'm no expert, but I dont think that manually flipping the bail affects line twist.  What it does do, is dramatically reduce the chance of (twist-induced) loops to appear on your spool.  It's the loops that are going to make your day suck.....twist makes loops more likely,  but manually operating the bail results in fewer spool loops.