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Posted

So so I bought this stuff and in the 15lb. It doesn’t take much to snap it. Two pliers and quick jerk it snaps. 

 

Is 15lb too small or what’s the deal? I thought this is suppose to be strong. I have been doing tests and my modified Albright (fc leader to braid) and palomar knot is width standing the strength test better than the actual main line. 

 

 

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Posted

Braid has very little stretch, so when you jerk it tight without the flex of a rod the forces get very high for split second. It’s very possible that a quick jerk with pliers is exceeding 15lbs of force on the line. It would be better to test it with a steady application of force to find it’s breaking point. 

 

What kind of presentations are you planning on using it for?

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Posted
1 minute ago, FCPhil said:

Braid has very little stretch, so when you jerk it tight without the flex of a rod the forces get very high for split second. It’s very possible that a quick jerk with pliers is exceeding 15lbs of force on the line. It would be better to test it with a steady application of force to find it’s breaking point. 

 

What kind of presentations are you planning on using it for?

That makes sense. Never thought about that. 

 

I assume that is why one time when I attempted to throw a 3/8 ounce lure clear across the lake while on the shoreline it snapped as soon as I got to the finish of my cast? I may have also had too much line out as well and should have had the lure closer to the rod tip. 

 

So here is what I like about it. I like the low memory and the ability to go longer in the year without changing line.

 

 I have it on 2 spinning rods. Going to use them for small crappie jigs, swim bait type lure, large tail grubs for bass, and maybe minnows or worms on occasions.

 

I have 2 baitcasting. 20 lb and 25 lb. I will use them for largers 1/2 ounce lures such as swim baits, spinner baits, bass jigs, and texas rig creature baits. 

Posted

As long as your knots are good and your line isn’t getting frayed, 15lb braid should be plenty strong for any presentation you would fish on spinning gear.

 

IMO any presentation in which you could be breaking 15lb braid should be done with a baitcaster. 

 

If you’re snapping off mid cast that is a problem with your cast or reel. 

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  • Super User
Posted

If there is a broken or cracked eyelet on your rod, it can damage, weaken or cut your line also.

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Posted

Also don't forget to use your drag- if you wrench it down (just because its braid) it will snap.  Like the previous posters mentioned the forces get very high quickly and with no stretch- it snaps. Setting your drag will help on hook sets as well as if you use a leader- just pair it up with proper lb test for what you are doing.

I use 40-50 for heavy vegetation- casting

15 for light vegetation- spinning

6 for crappie- spinning

only have had an issue with casting when the braid dug under itself and locks it up on the reel. I learned to address my digging in issues after casting off a few baits.

Posted
18 minutes ago, dgkasper58 said:

Also don't forget to use your drag- if you wrench it down (just because its braid) it will snap.  Like the previous posters mentioned the forces get very high quickly and with no stretch- it snaps. Setting your drag will help on hook sets as well as if you use a leader- just pair it up with proper lb test for what you are doing.

I use 40-50 for heavy vegetation- casting

15 for light vegetation- spinning

6 for crappie- spinning

only have had an issue with casting when the braid dug under itself and locks it up on the reel. I learned to address my digging in issues after casting off a few baits.

@dgkasper58 "only have had an issue with casting when the braid dug under itself and locks it up on the reel. I learned to address my digging in issues after casting off a few baits."

 

I had previously said this in a couple posts up... 

"I assume that is why one time when I attempted to throw a 3/8 ounce lure clear across the lake while on the shoreline it snapped as soon as I got to the finish of my cast? I may have also had too much line out as well and should have had the lure closer to the rod tip. "

 

I think I can relate to that as this is what may or could have happened. So what do you do to address that issue? that may be beneficial to know or do in the future. 

 

 

Posted

Usually this will not happen at the end of a very long cast but rather in the beginning/middle of the cast- It happens from a lot of tension being on the line while the line on the reel does not have a lot tension when it was put on the spool.  This tension difference allows the tight line to find/create gaps for it to pull into under the previously spooled line

 

Knowing what you did on your previous cast has helped me.  If I know I tightened my drag down and caught a fish/rip a snag out the last cast flipping it may have dug into the spool. Usually that is somewhat close and is easy to just turn and not try and launch the bait out there but rather swing it out to get past the dig.

Using heavier line will help a ton, setting up your drag properly and i have heard you can even use tape at the end of the farthest cast you can make (add 10 yards to be safe) so that the line cannot bury itself under whatever you are not using in the cast (just remember when you change baits this can be different)

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Posted
3 hours ago, Tyler. said:

Two pliers and quick jerk it snaps.

There's no fishing situation that involves this.  Braid breaking below it's break strength is almost always due to abrasion, which is all your testing here.

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Posted
3 minutes ago, J Francho said:

There's no fishing situation that involves this.  Braid breaking below it's break strength is almost always due to abrasion, which is all your testing here.

yes. I kinda realized this when someone told me to do a poundage test vs quick jerk or snap of the line. I also realize that the pole will give along with the drag. That would help ease that quick snap. 

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