Punching Grass and Vegitation for Bass ?

[Spankey]

Guys I’m at the start of doing my homework on this area of bass fishing.  I never really needed to go at them in this manner because it was never really necessary on the rivers I fish. 

 

Having to make a conversion over to lake fishing and greenies over the last couple of years this is one area I have to work at because I’m putting myself out of reach of quality fish. The lake has a lot of heavy shore line grass. The fish are there. Been catching fish in the grass but don’t have the means yet to get in there properly. Bottom line I need heavier stuff. 

 

I know were are in a time of everything being specific to a style of fishing and my question are there any suggestion or opinions as to picking up making a decent set up for punching, flipping and pitching. Up here in the north east I’m not dealing with the vegitation like that of lake Okeechobee but I do have miles of lighter grass and pads.

 

Any help is appreciated. I could probably just wing it and come up with something but I respect your opinions on this site. This is a weak point in my fishing ability. Have not exposed myself to it really. I have the time to work on this and try to get it right. Be awhile before I can get on the water still on the hard side. 

[CroakHunter]

I use either a dobyns 735 fury or a daiwa fuego heavy 8'  both pitch 3/4 ounce weights amd jigs well. Havent fished them yet just pitched around the yard. The 735 is more versatile and a better rod, but you can find the daiwa for 1/2 the price. Another viable option is the Berkley lighting shock rod 7'6 heavy. 

[Spankey]

Few things I have to consider. XH may be overkill. MH or heavy would most likely do it. And without ever making a cast yet. I don’t think I would throw under 3/4 oz., late summer and fall it would have to be heavier and I’m saying this with no experience at this. I know they are in there. Bluegill are in there all summer and I’ve caught bass throwing lighter hollow frogs. I just have to get in those mats. I appreciate the insite. And reels are on the fast side.....no. 

[Frog Turds]

What rod length you prefer?

[MarkH024]

2 minutes ago, Frog Turds said:

 

What rod length you prefer?

 

 

6'3 spinning rod.

[Mike L]

If you're gonna be punching mat's I strongly suggest you use a baitcaster. 

H/F with a high speed reel, 65# braid and go from there. 

 

For your lighter grass areas and pads you can get by with MH/F or XF and depending on the density, 40#-50# braid or even 20# Flouro would work. 

 

Weights will range from 1/2 to 2 oz depending on conditions. 

 

 

 

 

Mike

[Finnz922]

Punch rod is a must. Reel is your call. 8.1 with long 90mm + handle or 7.3 would be fine. Most drags are really strong nowadays. I am partial to 80lb braid, but recommend 65-80. 

 

My setup is Bub's Punch Rod by Irod and a OG Zillion 7.1 with Sunline FX2 in 80lb.

[Spankey]

Will do some rod searching Friday after work. Like everything else fishing related won’t be able to find it real local, pretty sure of that. Don’t think I’ll make out with knowledgeable persons working there either. 

 

I won’t buy anything under 7’6”. I’m a Shimano Reel fan so I’ll stick with that. Right now I’m getting in there with setups that are way too light. I know that. I need to come up with the right tool to touch them. I realize there is a right way and a wrong way to get in there. But I need to find that rod that will be heavy enough to punch, pitch, flip and heavier frog fish with. Without knowing for sure yet. But something is telling me that I’ll be maxing out at 1 1/4 or 1 1/2 oz. yes it’s thick with grass and pads but not Okeechobee thick. 

[Fishing_FF]

21 hours ago, Mike L said:

If you're gonna be punching mat's I strongly suggest you use a baitcaster. 

 

As a primarily spinning guy, I have to say @Mike L advice is solid. I love my spinning rods. I can pitch and punch with them. However, when it comes time to grind away at an area either in search for big bass or fishing a tournament, I reach for a baitcaster. Using spinning gear for this technique is just slow and awkward. 

[Spankey]

1 hour ago, Fishing_FF said:

 

As a primarily spinning guy, I have to say @Mike L advice is solid. I love my spinning rods. I can pitch and punch with them. However, when it comes time to grind away at an area either in search for big bass or fishing a tournament, I reach for a baitcaster. Using spinning gear for this technique is just slow and awkward. 

Yes that's my plan. My current bait casting stuff now it too light. Set up for crankbait fishing and lighter spinnerbaits. I have a MH Spinning set up I've been doing some frogging with. It works but it's not meant for fishing that slop. Not fast or x-fast its moderate fast. I've been catching some frogging but nothing to brag about, I've had some huge blow up and short strikes. That's what I want to get down in there for. Hey they are not Okeechobee bass but, 5, 6 or 7 lb. Yankee Bass, I'm in for those. 

 

I think my version or what I feel is heavy grass is really light or moderate grass and pads to you guy. I might set myself up with 7 1/2 foot MH Fast or X-fast, try to find one that will get me to handle to 1 1/2 oz. I'm not gonna get to those bass if I don't try something. I've been bass fishing a long time but really never had to go at them this way. 

 

 

[Catt]

Ya got the rods, reels, & line covered so I'll add just one thing.

 

Don't fish the vegetation...fish the structure under it!

[Frog Turds]

I have 4 potential punch sticks at my disposal, but 2 usually set up for other things...1 805, 2 @ 766 and a 736...the 736 is a multi use normally its my main dedicated frog stick but can easily double as a puncher and jigs and have used it for such...other 766 multi purpose also...

 

Bantam mgls and Abu Rockets are the 2 reels i use...8:1 Bantams & 9:1 Rockets with drags locked down...sufix 832 is what I prefer for punchin, dedicated jig and frog sticks...PP for most other things...

 

I live in the heavy jungle slop and always have 2 dedicated punch sticks with 2 weight sizes...normal summer heavy veg, 766 will usually have a 1.25oz on it and 805 always has a 2oz...there are spots where one or the other is a better choice and makes me more efficient having 2 punch rigs set up to quickly switch off...sometimes tungs with skirts, sometimes without...punchin is one of my bread and butters and i do ton of it...

 

places I fish have endless acres of lotus fields, monster heavy thick slop mats, cattails, duckweed, arrow head, pencil reeds, eel grass, common water reed, various other types of pads which can be more or less all blended together with most every type of submerged veg that grows underneath...quite a variety all in the general same locals...spots so heavy even tossing a 2oz up in the air and still not make it through a mat...

[Spankey]

On 2/5/2019 at 11:46 PM, Frog Turds said:

I have 4 potential punch sticks at my disposal, but 2 usually set up for other things...1 805, 2 @ 766 and a 736...the 736 is a multi use normally its my main dedicated frog stick but can easily double as a puncher and jigs and have used it for such...other 766 multi purpose also...

 

Bantam mgls and Abu Rockets are the 2 reels i use...8:1 Bantams & 9:1 Rockets with drags locked down...sufix 832 is what I prefer for punchin, dedicated jig and frog sticks...PP for most other things...

 

I live in the heavy jungle slop and always have 2 dedicated punch sticks with 2 weight sizes...normal summer heavy veg, 766 will usually have a 1.25oz on it and 805 always has a 2oz...there are spots where one or the other is a better choice and makes me more efficient having 2 punch rigs set up to quickly switch off...sometimes tungs with skirts, sometimes without...punchin is one of my bread and butters and i do ton of it...

 

places I fish have endless acres of lotus fields, monster heavy thick slop mats, cattails, duckweed, arrow head, pencil reeds, eel grass, common water reed, various other types of pads which can be more or less all blended together with most every type of submerged veg that grows underneath...quite a variety all in the general same locals...spots so heavy even tossing a 2oz up in the air and still not make it through a mat...

 

 

 

 

I’ll start my search starting tomorrow after work. I am a St. Croix fan I’ll start there. 

 

Med. Hvy. Rods lure weight max at 1 oz., Will need to compare Med. Hvy. To Heavy. But heavy will give me better length options. 

 

 

 

[crypt]

On ‎2‎/‎5‎/‎2019 at 6:04 PM, Mike L said:

If you're gonna be punching mat's I strongly suggest you use a baitcaster. 

H/F with a high speed reel, 65# braid and go from there. 

 

For your lighter grass areas and pads you can get by with MH/F or XF and depending on the density, 40#-50# braid or even 20# Flouro would work. 

 

Weights will range from 1/2 to 2 oz depending on conditions. 

 

 

 

 

Mike

this...….

[Catt]

The same little humps/ridges & cuts/drains that hold fish in brush or timber holds fish in grass.

 

Knowing the structure under the helps eliminate unproductive water.

 

But just a Cajun's perspective ?

[Frog Turds]

I agree Catt and an important part of the puzzle undoubtedly to know in relation to...appreciate the time you took to explain to OP some of those details...to an inexperienced/green basser with whatever method/technique need those tidbits...its easy to, as im guilty of myself at times explaining things assuming that the person knows what im conveying to the letter when i type it in black and white...

 

different bodies/areas of waters have prime real estate high % productive structure with emergent/matted/submerged vegetation and theres also areas that have high % prime real estate that structure is irrelevant and can be equally productive pending and should not overlooked or will just sell yourself short...

 

example, wind alone can make a structurally void non productive area highly productive...reading/locating prime real estate emergent/matted vegetation as it relates to punch'n or any heavy cover technique for that matter (excluding structure) is equally important as knowing and reading structure, it is unquestionably...at times it can be highly productive veg alone and at times it can be highly productive veg coupled with structure...both need experience and knowledge to understand to eliminate unproductive areas of either scenario, which can also change by the day or hour...

 

Is seeking out structure in relation to emergent vegetation/mats to narrow down the field one of my given priorities, most certainly...but I know/able to read & understand both together and know/able to read vegetation itself...I wouldnt be as successful as I am if I couldnt and unable to decipher when, where & what is worthy of a toss...there is always other X factors that can change the rules...

 

this pic is 1 example from a body of water I now very well inregards to vegetation and structure wise...the pic is prime real estate cover, high % punch target where I know structure is irrelevant...areas I fish, countless like spots among others where species of different emergent veg meets other varieties and/or mats...same high % situations if throwing a jig, frog or whatever to look for on the water applies...where at times, structure plays no part in the decision to fish it but the vegetation does dictate the decision to...

[MN Fisher]

10 hours ago, Catt said:

The same little humps/ridges & cuts/drains that hold fish in brush or timber holds fish in grass.

 

Knowing the structure under the helps eliminate unproductive water.

 

But just a Cajun's perspective ?

It's a northerner's perspective as well.

 

Going out early in the season before weed growth hits it's high point, you can look/scan the bottom. Ridges, hollows, etc will be found then. During weed growth, you can still see where those are...the weeds emerge first from the ridges, last from the hollows. By learning a lake/pond and remembering those spots, you can fish the structure even when it's covered in lily pads, milfoil, or whatever. While the bass will hide under the weeds during the hottest part of the day, you'll know that they'll also gravitate towards the lee side of ridges and into those hollows.

[Spankey]

12 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

It's a northerner's perspective as well.

 

Going out early in the season before weed growth hits it's high point, you can look/scan the bottom. Ridges, hollows, etc will be found then. During weed growth, you can still see where those are...the weeds emerge first from the ridges, last from the hollows. By learning a lake/pond and remembering those spots, you can fish the structure even when it's covered in lily pads, milfoil, or whatever. While the bass will hide under the weeds during the hottest part of the day, you'll know that they'll also gravitate towards the lee side of ridges and into those hollows.

 

12 hours ago, Frog Turds said:

I agree Catt and an important part of the puzzle undoubtedly to know in relation to...appreciate the time you took to explain to OP some of those details...to an inexperienced/green basser with whatever method/technique need those tidbits...its easy to, as im guilty of myself at times explaining things assuming that the person knows what im conveying to the letter when i type it in black and white...

 

different bodies/areas of waters have prime real estate high % productive structure with emergent/matted/submerged vegetation and theres also areas that have high % prime real estate that structure is irrelevant and can be equally productive pending and should not overlooked or will just sell yourself short...

 

example, wind alone can make a structurally void non productive area highly productive...reading/locating prime real estate emergent/matted vegetation as it relates to punch'n or any heavy cover technique for that matter (excluding structure) is equally important as knowing and reading structure, it is unquestionably...at times it can be highly productive veg alone and at times it can be highly productive veg coupled with structure...both need experience and knowledge to understand to eliminate unproductive areas of either scenario, which can also change by the day or hour...

 

Is seeking out structure in relation to emergent vegetation/mats to narrow down the field one of my given priorities, most certainly...but I know/able to read & understand both together and know/able to read vegetation itself...I wouldnt be as successful as I am if I couldnt and unable to decipher when, where & what is worthy of a toss...there is always other X factors that can change the rules...

 

this pic is 1 example from a body of water I now very well inregards to vegetation and structure wise...the pic is prime real estate cover, high % punch target where I know structure is irrelevant...areas I fish, countless like spots among others where species of different emergent veg meets other varieties and/or mats...same high % situations if throwing a jig, frog or whatever to look for on the water applies...where at times, structure plays no part in the decision to fish it but the vegetation does dictate the decision to...

 

 

That’s one thing about this lake I’m fishing, I was able to get two decent maps showing that was actually flooded years ago and one showing what and where man made structure was put in the lake. It’s been an eye opener the last few seasons. Whole different ball game than the river. 

 

Sometimes I think I’m trying to absorbe too much too quickly. But the grass is there and I have to handle it from a few perspectives. I’ve Bass fished my whole life from a lighter and finesse style of catching bass. Sure I want to continue that but I have to expand especially when you know the fish are there. The lighter approach I’m taken in that slop is not the answer. I’m not giving myself a real chance at the biggens in there. 

 

Afterwork I'm going to this shop we’re the guy has a bit of a rod sale on. So I’m told. I know he has some older MossyBack Rods there but that series has be gone for awhile 10-20% off of msrp of discontinued series doesn’t seem like much. But maybe I’m wrong. I have a feeling the same will be with some St. Croix Rods there. All that older stuff should have been on sale when the newer and improved series were introduced. 

[Frog Turds]

if not going dedicated stick, a 765 stick will serve you well multi purposely...if you feel and impression im getting that what you'll be fishin is more on the moderate side & sparse of cover, than 50# braid (12#diameter mono equivalent) which will be a good multipurpose use choice as well and handles excellent on BC's very well...I use some type of HiVis, I like Sufix ghost & use PP yellow then I like to take a big green sharpie and color atleast a rod length or so...heavy cover is rough on line so check your line around where your rig is and retie when necessary...but you have all the "getting started" info, you know your body of water, you'll ultimately decide what you feel you need with having the right tools to get the job done...punch'n is another deal where you'll miss and lose a fair share, goes with the territory...can be frustrating as hell but equally rewarding way of getting them...its an adrenaline rush settin the hook and the chaos that follows gettin that fish up & out and in the boat...be patient, like anything theres a learning curve to be successful...

 

people can disagree with me on aspects, but heavy cover punch'n is one technique that I do specialize in...Spend a day in my punchzilla jungle Mississippi river backwaters and I can prove everything I've said...learn to read cover as one would bottom structure...always be open minded and dont paint yourself into a box...Ive caught too many big fish in spots some would disregard and write off as low % targets...rules are always made to be broken in the world of bass'n...

 

You are always free to message me anytime down the road if you have any questions...

[Spankey]

2 hours ago, Frog Turds said:

if not going dedicated stick, a 765 stick will serve you well multi purposely...if you feel and impression im getting that what you'll be fishin is more on the moderate side & sparse of cover, than 50# braid (12#diameter mono equivalent) which will be a good multipurpose use choice as well and handles excellent on BC's very well...I use some type of HiVis, I like Sufix ghost & use PP yellow then I like to take a big green sharpie and color atleast a rod length or so...heavy cover is rough on line so check your line around where your rig is and retie when necessary...but you have all the "getting started" info, you know your body of water, you'll ultimately decide what you feel you need with having the right tools to get the job done...punch'n is another deal where you'll miss and lose a fair share, goes with the territory...can be frustrating as hell but equally rewarding way of getting them...its an adrenaline rush settin the hook and the chaos that follows gettin that fish up & out and in the boat...be patient, like anything theres a learning curve to be successful...

 

people can disagree with me on aspects, but heavy cover punch'n is one technique that I do specialize in...Spend a day in my punchzilla jungle Mississippi river backwaters and I can prove everything I've said...learn to read cover as one would bottom structure...always be open minded and dont paint yourself into a box...Ive caught too many big fish in spots some would disregard and write off as low % targets...rules are always made to be broken in the world of bass'n...

 

You are always free to message me anytime down the road if you have any questions...

 

 

You’ve been a HUGE help and I’ll take you up on your offer. Gonna stop and look at those MossyBacks after work today. I’ll have what I think is the ultimate rod in my hands within two weeks. That’s why I’ve been down playing my grass situation. I’m sure it’s nothing compared to your situation. I do have this one spot on the lake where it is acre upon acres of solid Lilly pads. I’ll post some pics of the vegitation situation when I get on it. Ice there now. If the truth be know when I figure out what I’m doing I’ll most likely be doing some 3/4 oz. Max 1 oz punching. Thanks for the help. Good fishing.