Wire Guage for Trolling Motor?

[Way2slow]

Last post and I'm out of this one. I said a long time ago I was not getting into anymore battery type discussions and here I am. Shame on me.

In the space shuttle, and tank or any other piece of military or FAA piece of equipment you are 100% correct, you would never solder a crimped connector, but in a fishing boat, there are other elements that come into play. I've seen a whole lot of crimped connections go bad from corrosion getting into them that I've never seen happen with one that's properly soldered, and I've never seen one break from vibration. That kind of vibration in a boat would cause a whole lot more to come apart than a soldered crimp connection, especially on something the size of a #10 wire. Add to that, very few people are going to have a $700 GreenLeaf crimper to properly crimp connectors that size, for the current they handle, it's added insurance of a solid connection.

Right, wrong, or indifferent, I always have and always will solder mine in my boats and after 40 something years of doing it, I've never had one break.

Not too sure about just how much you know, when you look at the current ratings of different types of #6 wire.

Goodbye, dam I should have never gotten into this.

[CFFF 1.5]

I would really like to thank everyone that has responded to my questions, I have learned a lot. I was originally going to probably use a 10 guage wire and splice between but now I'm going to use a 8 guage and extend about 6 feet so I can reach my battery this weekend when I bow mount this particular TM. Again thankyou to everyone.

[Team_Dougherty]

There are many ways to make a splice. You can use a butt splice, wire nuts, split bolt connectors or you can solder the joint. All are good and effective ways of making a splice. They also have different advantages and disadvantages. The main thing to remember is you need to seal the splice to keep moisture out.

As long as you have a good mechanical and electrical connection and keep moisture out your connection will last a long time.

[bullrun]

Man, I really didn't want things to go this way, sorry you are upset.  Who am I to argue with 40 years of experience?  I can only use my professional experience of 20 years, and I guess you can say that it was all book knowledge. But then, we were writing the books so I reckon my cockiness is unavoidable. Your way works for you and that is all that matters.

Perhaps I am assuming too much. When I make a connection, I crimp it properly with connectors that have sealant in them and then use the good heat shrink with sealant that also seals the connection. I would think this would forestall corrosion for a lifetime. Mechanical support is also very important, try to support everything high and dry.

If you choose soldering, make sure to support the connection on both sides in some mechanical way.

[bullrun]

Tip:

You can pump a blob (official NASA term) of silicone into your crimp connectors before inserting the wire and crimping and accomplish the same thing as the expensive one with the sealant already in them. You can also put a blob on the whole connection before sliding the heat shrink over. Shrink it with heat, not flame if you do.

[CFFF 1.5]

I emailed Minn Kota Last Night and this is the response I got.

Scott,

           The gauge that comes off the motor is 10 gauge, if you're going to extend the leads and it is going to be longer than 6 feet you will need a 6 gauge wire if it is not going to be longer than 6 feet you can stay with a 10 gauge wire.

Kelly Thompson

MinnKota&Cannon

A division of Johnson Outdoors

121 Power Dr

Mankato,MN 56002

Phone : 800-227-6433

kethomps@johnsonoutdoors.com

website : www.johnsonoutdoors.com