How do you attach your decks?

[_tyler_wright_]

Hey guys, i'm trying to get evrything together on my new project so i got another question. Being as on my last project to attack my carpeted pieces i had to use ss screws and finishing washers i just don't like the look. How do you guys that have decks attach yours to your framing underneath? I have'nt seen a screw or anything in yall's

[fishhawk]

Are you redecking an aluminun or a glass boat? What are your attach areas in the boat made of?

[_tyler_wright_]

It would have 2x2 supports under it

[fishhawk]

To avoid attach screws from showing don"t install the carpet until after the deck is attached. Treat the wood with waterproofer on the bottom and soak the edges down a couple times the top will be sealed with the adhesive and carpet. Screw down the deck with tapered head wood screws, tighten them until flush. Then using outdoor carpet adhesive spread with a notched trowl put the carpet over the board and screws last. Check out the thread started by FishinGirl and check the suggestions gave by myself and many others on different steps of her rebuild

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

If you carpeted already, use the "X" trick.

Cut a small X where you want the screw.  Peel back the 4 triangles and insert screw.  Add a spot of glue (very little) to the backs of those 4 triangles and press them back down.

[_tyler_wright_]

Fishhawk, You'd still be able to see the scres tho

[Low_Budget_Hooker]

the top will be sealed with the adhesive and carpet.  

Waterproof the entire piece of wood before beginning.  Although the carpet in rubber backed, the water still gets through and gets held there.

If the bench is 15" wide, cut board 19" wide so you have a 2" lip on each side.  This lets you fold the carpet under, AFTER you've attached the wood.  Staple, trim excess carpet at bench and for a clean, finished edge,use a thin metal molding strip underneath where the carpeted lip meets the bench.

Pre-note- Make sure carpet lines are all running in same direction, front to back or side to side, as long as all panels go the same way.

Now mount pedestals.

[_tyler_wright_]

Okay now i got you. Thanks alot!

[fishhawk]

Read my post again,tapered head screws tightened flush with the wood then covered with adhesive and carpet are undetectable.

[GooseBoots]

  I'm getting ready to start my own build. My boat is a Bass/Duck boat and will have shallow decks. This is so my Decoys and Gear won't get knocked overboard, and will be hidden by my duck blind material.

  Based on my build, stainless screws and finish washers painted to match the green carpet is not a bad thing. This will allow me to remove the decking for cleaning, inspection, wiring, and future changes.

   I also will have to have exposed hardware where a seat post will be positioned over a livewell/storage box that has a drain plug, that I will need to get to.

  However, if your build doesn't have the requirements that I have the blind fastening as suggest in this thread makes for one clean and awesome looking rig.

Bruce

[fishhawk]

GooseBoots, the last deck I built we used a handheld router to recess the pedestal plate flush with the rest of the deck before installing the carpet. I'm assuming that alot of the really clean builds posted on this forum are done the same way. Not sure what stage your modfications are at but this is some thing that came to me when you mentioned your base plate. thought it might help you or another reader.

[GooseBoots]

  My mods are ready to go. I'm just getting ready to start. When my Butt Hinges and Hasp arrive, I'm starting.

  The hardware I can't hide are the hinges and hasp. A pedestal and seat will be mounted on plywood which will sit directly over a live well cover on the bench seat. Dual hinges will allow me to swing up the mounted seat to open the live well, and dual hasp will hold the mounted seat tightly against the bench seat to keep stable and tight. I'm not really sure If I will ever use the live well as such, but I will need to check on the drain plug from time to time

  One option in hiding the bright hinges and hasp is to use Camo Tape like I use for turkey hunting, I'll look more at that after I'm done with construction.

   I am approaching my mods strickly as  function over form due to the dual use purpose. However, If I were building a pure bass conversion is would be quite a different approach.

  Note that I own a complete woodshop with high quality stationary machines and have built fine furniture with them.

Thanks for your help,

Bruce

[fishhawk]

Gooseboots, is it possible to sink your hinge mounting plates like they are on a home door jamb? If this will work on your setup the carpet will cover all but the pivot of the hinge.

[GooseBoots]

  Not really. Half of the butt hinge will be fastened into the plywood edge of the seat base which sits atop of the bench seat member. The other half of the butt hinge will fasten into the sides of the bench seat member.

  If you go to the Tracker web site and look at the Topper 1436LW, you might get a better idea what I'm talking about.

  Honestly, I really didn't give much concern about the LiveWell as I did for the thicker aluminum and greater weight capacity.

  I'll be posting photo's from start to finish when I start next week.

Thanks,

Bruce