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  • Super User
Posted

After even only three fishing trips with my canoe I decided I needed to modify it to make it more fishing friendly.

Here's a shot of the pre-mod canoe.

1436982976_01Canoe.thumb.jpg.ce738b629b3cc22a43bfcd6df284474f.jpg

 

This is NOT an SCanoe or a Field & Stream Scout - this is the 'original' Sun Dolphin Scout SS. The other two are relabeled Sun Dolphins.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Phase 1 done - new seat supports cut/drilled/installed. They'll have to be removed temporarily during Phase 2 - which will happen Tuesday.

 

Yes, I do work this fast when on a project. Plus my King-pin base and mount are due Tuesday and I want the main part of the seat ready for them.

IMG_0008-1.JPG.1419503ee186144f0d72b0a361eb2199.JPG

 

Details of how I got 'here' are in my blog

Posted

Thanks MN Fisher, I'm going to follow this. 

Posted

I'll follow along, too.

 

I often fish out of my Meyers Sportspal S-15 and I also have 3 seats. The factory installed a seat "midships" for me in addition to the bow and stern seats that were standard. 

 

To make canoe fishing easier, your goal I believe you said, any and all efforts to work out anchoring and other "holding water" techniques and details is time and money well spent.

 

Best of luck!

 

Brad

  • Super User
Posted
2 hours ago, Brad Reid said:

I'll follow along, too.

 

I often fish out of my Meyers Sportspal S-15 and I also have 3 seats. The factory installed a seat "midships" for me in addition to the bow and stern seats that were standard. 

 

To make canoe fishing easier, your goal I believe you said, any and all efforts to work out anchoring and other "holding water" techniques and details is time and money well spent.

 

Best of luck!

 

Brad

I think my entire setup including the trolling motor and battery but excluding the trailer will cost less than one of those S-15's.

 

Anchoring will be simple, 1.5# fluke anchor tied off to the rear carry handle. It's the electrical routing and the stabilizer setup that will be more involved.

 

Posted
12 hours ago, MN Fisher said:

I think my entire setup including the trolling motor and battery but excluding the trailer will cost less than one of those S-15's.

 

Anchoring will be simple, 1.5# fluke anchor tied off to the rear carry handle. It's the electrical routing and the stabilizer setup that will be more involved.

 

For sure! A Meyers Sportspal S-15 isn't cheap at around $1400 or $1500. To your anchor plans, I'd carry along a stake-out pole, another handy device for canoe anglers. I fish shallow water most of the time, find it easier to deploy than an anchor at times. 

 

Looking forward to seeing how you do your electrical!

 

Brad

  • Super User
Posted

Good luck on your project...when it comes to canoes, the are a tremendous number of options...;)

 

 

  • Super User
Posted (edited)

So far today, added the brackets for the mid-ship seat and got the wood cut and the seat mounted in the aft.

 

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Details are again on my blog (look to my profile for the addy)

 

Also got the King-pin base mounted

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Edited by MN Fisher
Add
  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Center work table installed.

IMG_0023-1.JPG.e8d70f9204a9c399301ecb592c3ebce8.JPG

 

Again, see my blog to show the steps I took to get this done.

  • Super User
Posted

Okay - I also got the electrical routed. Since the gunwale is hollow, I ran the 8-guage down inside that. A socket on the tail end will accept the matching plugs on both the trolling motor and the battery charger. Once I have the battery box, I'll terminate the front end.

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  • 2 weeks later...
  • Super User
Posted

Seat arrived last Friday, so got that installed.

 

Also made the 'Gull-wing Stabilizers.

 

Details on blog...at some point - my internet has been flaky for the past week and it'll be Tuesday next before a Tech comes out.

 

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  • 4 weeks later...
  • Super User
Posted

Okay, I've updated my blog to show the steps to get to this point.

  • 2 months later...
  • Super User
Posted

Since the temp was high enough today - painted the seat supports. Also terminated the wires to the battery box. Dunno if I'm going to use the milk crate or not...maybe behind the aft seat for the anchor and miscellaneous items.

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  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Picked up the 2"x3"x10' tube steel on Wednesday, things came up and I couldn't work until today, but all the holes I need are now drilled and the tube sanded/cleaned of rust. Tuesday it's suppose to be warm and sunny, so I'll paint it then. Original tongue piece is the white one.

 

image.jpeg.f75f8ab6e2ec4dfc7a0cd798e84b9e27.jpeg

 

I've also gotten a good start on the rod-rack. A piece of MDF has been cut to fit between the rear seat and the carry handle. Three holes drilled through the MDF and the canoe side for mounting - the only new holes I'll be drilling in the canoe. 12" lengths of 1-1/2" PVC have been cut, cleaned up and holes drilled in them to mount to the MDF. The MDF panel will also be painted on Tuesday...hopefully.

 

image.jpeg.f659c6785d0a295081bf6df952f27aa3.jpeg

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Rod-rack is complete...painting on trailer-tongue continues.

image.jpeg.8971e3eb99722b48bcf3908d9c926de8.jpeg

No - the seat will NOT bump the rod in the first position - I was very careful with my measurements and alignments.

  • Super User
Posted

Final coat of paint on the tongue piece is drying - got the trolling motor mounted, adjusted and connected.

image.thumb.jpeg.9b65fd6bffce113b1d1ea874bbcdec78.jpeg

 

Also got the screw eyes in the rod-rack and the leashes installed...if I didn't have to wait for the trailer to be finished, I could go out today.

  • Like 1
Posted

Nice canoe!

 

That Endura C2 drains battery fast from my experience. I have an Endura Maxx now and it'll last all day. 

  • Super User
Posted
2 minutes ago, rickdeez1 said:

Nice canoe!

 

That Endura C2 drains battery fast from my experience. I have an Endura Maxx now and it'll last all day. 

I'm on a limited budget...the Maxx was outside my spending limit.

 

Also - looking over the specs and given how much time I actually spend on the water each trip - my 75AH Deep Cycle will be enough to power the C2 for a trip.

Posted

MN Fisher, You've done a great job upgrading your canoe.

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted

Looks good.  How much weight do you think you added?

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
2 minutes ago, J Francho said:

Looks good.  How much weight do you think you added?

Besides the TM and battery? Maybe 15lbs...which brings it to 100. Add the TM and battery and probably about 150-160 total. Since it's trailered - almost finished putting that together - it's not an issue.

  • Super User
Posted

Jazzing it up a little to...replaced the crappy looking black on white block lettering Reg No with custom vinyl lettering.

Original

image.jpeg.eeaa1f61f3f83e10a968e807f1ef81a2.jpeg

 

New

image.jpeg.3cfc97492c0d69a7ec9d5f41a4a8ea5c.jpeg

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

I did the same on my bass boat.  CG wasn't too pleased about it.  It's probably fine on inland lakes.  I think the funky letters look better.

Posted

canoe looks great. Thinking about some mods on mine now..

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
36 minutes ago, J Francho said:

I did the same on my bass boat.  CG wasn't too pleased about it.  It's probably fine on inland lakes.  I think the funky letters look better.

Couple neighbors...including the guy who uses my backyard to store his boat in the summer...did the same. Never an issue with the local lake patrol.

  • Like 1

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