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Posted

I finally got the wiring for the trolling motor done today.  What a pain that was to run down the parts for that.  I bought 3/4" conduit at the lumber store to run the wires thru and had to go to a Stereo/Electronics store to get a 8 ga. fusible link and 50 amp fuse.  I checked everywhere else in town including the auto parts stores looking for a fusible link and the biggest I could get was 10 guage that would hold a 30 amp fuse.  I also needed about 20 feet of 8 guage wire to run from the battery in the back of the boat to the trolling motor plug.  The stereo/electronics store had 8 guage wire for $1 per foot.  I was not going to pay that so when I was a walmart I seen a set of auto jumper cables for $14.  They were 12 feet long, (12 positive and 12 negative) which is more than I need, and were made of 8 guage wire.  Perfect.  Then I needed butt connectors to connect the 8 guage wire to my trolling motor plug.  I had to go to a generator/well supply shop to get those. The biggest butt connectors I could find anywhere else were for 10 guage wire.  After running all over town trying to get all the stuff I needed I got it all done.  

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Posted

I am going to put it on the water tomorrow and check the stability.  The ice here in central Nebraska has finally melted off the interstate lakes.  I have a 15 horse Johnson tiller to put on yet and I am going to buy a Humminbird 565 sonar along with another battery for my transom trolling motor.  I'll post more pics when I get them.

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  • 2 weeks later...
Posted

You did a great job there!

I am getting anxious to start my decking and mod on my 15.5'.  

Just waiting for the 3 meters of snow to melt so I can get it out of the building where I have it stored.

Nice work though!

Posted

When you put the floor in the middle of the boat, was it "level"? I have a similar, though much older, v-hull that I would like to put a floor in.  I don't have the middle seat section like you have, so I wouldn't have to cut out that section. It just seems like when I put the plywood in to fit, the whole piece angles downward toward the front of the boat. Will that change when I get it on the water?

Posted

I used the 2" foam insulation under the center floor to level it before I put my plywood on it.  It took alot of trial and error as far as fitting goes but I finally got it.  The best part is that all the flooring/decking is removable.  I wish I had put a storage door in the front deck up in the bow but I guess now I know next time.  I'm still working on a pedestal mount for the back.  I've had the boat on the water one time so far and even with the added weight, that new Minn Kota pulls the boat around great.  Even in a strong wind.  

Posted

No bilge pump for under all that flooring? Arent you worried that foam will trap water?

I notice you guys do these decks but I never see anyone fasten them, arent you affraid they will slide? How would you fasten them and hide the screws?

Nice job!

Posted

The foam is high density and is advertised as non absorbant so it better not hold much water.  The stern of the boat is open so I can see how much water is in the boat.  I do have a new bilge pump but I am not sure if I will put it in or not.  The deck in my bow will not go anywhere because the floor is cut out around the side braces of the front bench.  The center floor is held in place by the benches on both ends of it.  

Posted

how did you support the front of the deck up at the front of the boat where it tapers in? and is that deck removable or did uou drill into the bench?

thanks,

Posted

The front deck is removable and no holes were drilled in the bench.  The plywood has 2x2" boards screwed to the bottom of the plywood for stability and the deck is supported by the bench at the rear of it and a u-bolt that comes thru the front of the boat that the winch strap clips to.  At first I did not think that this would be enough but there is no place for the deck to go down because the bow of the boat is wedge shaped anyway.  I weigh about 250 lbs and have stood up in the bow with no problems but most of my time will be in the seat which is bolted down right over the bench.  

Posted

Did you put a hole in that rear bench for the rear seat mount?? I noticed that it does not have the aluminum tubing you used in front.

Is the rear deck screwed down??  And if not then do you worry that the rear deck might tilt and dump someone off of it??  It's not as wide as the front deck is so if someone leans too far towards the motor or center of the boat it might allow them to fall off by tipping since it's so narrow.

Posted

I did not put a hole in the rear bench for the seat mount.  Instead of using the aluminum tubing on the rear, I used 2x4's to make the frame and then added another 1x4 to build it up.  The rear deck is not screwed down and I made it to actually fit across the center side benches of the boat as well.  I did this so if I am fishing by myself, I can sit in the center of the boat and pull the seat out of the bow to stand up there.  That bench is extremely stable and will not tip.  The decks actually straddle the aluminum boat bench supports to keep it from sliding front or back.  When traveling across the lake using the Johnson outboard,  the pedestals for the seats are removed and the seats put into the bases in the floor to lower my center of gravity.  I'll post some pics of the underside of the rear bench soon but now I have the boat under a tarp.  

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