Aftermarket Transom Saver

[Happybeerbuzz]

I just got a Bass Tracker and its stock transom saver attaches to the trailer with a pin.  My knees do not like squatting down to pin/unpin the saver each time I take the boat out.  Can anyone recommend an aftermarket transom saver of the "double wedge" variety that I can install, DIY? The existing attachment is just held on by a couple of bolts and looks like it can easily be removed.  

[WRB]

What size OB?

Transum savers that attach to the trailer and support the lower unit can create some serious issues if the roads you trailer your boat on are not smooth. The saver transfers shock and vibration to the lower unit that can loosen parts.

The M-Y Wedge rubber cushion that holds the engine tilted and balanced works good, simple to install and remove, you need to prevent the powerhead from rocking back and forth, so stirring pads to prevent rocking help.

Tom

[tander]

See if Motor Mate has a model to fit your motor. Keeps the motor steady and no bending over to install it.

[Way north bass guy]

I’ve used both kinds of transom savers over the years, and currently have a My-Wedge for my Suzuki 140, and it works great. Motor is very secure and doesn’t move side to side either, even without the steering clips. And yes, if you have bad knees you don’t have to bend down at all with it, unless of course you drop it on the ground ?

[TnRiver46]

I just set my motor on the little metal lever that is factory issue with the engine. I’m guessing this is not an option on larger motors, mine is a 50hp. I used to piddle around with transom savers that attach to trailer and the rubber V notch always broke and the ones with the metal V and rubber stoppers cost like $60. I Decided to just trust the factory lever about 3-4 years ago and haven’t had any trouble (that I know of). And I put a LOT of miles on a boat trailer 

[Fishing Rhino]

7 hours ago, TnRiver46 said:

I just set my motor on the little metal lever that is factory issue with the engine. I’m guessing this is not an option on larger motors, mine is a 50hp. I used to piddle around with transom savers that attach to trailer and the rubber V notch always broke and the ones with the metal V and rubber stoppers cost like $60. I Decided to just trust the factory lever about 3-4 years ago and haven’t had any trouble (that I know of). And I put a LOT of miles on a boat trailer 

From what I've read, the motor manufacturers instruct you not to use the tilt lock to hold the motor up when towing your rig.  On the other side of the story, they do not endorse the use of transom savers of any type. They specifically recommend towing with the motor in a vertical position, unless it doesn't have enough ground clearance.  The purpose of the tilt lock is to hold the lower unit out of the water when tied to a dock or mooring.  

 

Some bodies of water have organisms which can grow in the water passages of the motor, eventually blocking the flow of water when the motor is left in the operating position.

 

But, they stop short when it comes to telling you to use some type of device to hold the motor in a position that provides sufficient ground clearance.

 

It's a matter of choosing your poison.

[TOXIC]

Use what you want but the term "Transom Saver" is a misnomer for both types of "Motor Stabilizer" neither version takes any stress whatsoever off your transom which isn't a big deal since the forces exuded by trailering and hitting pothole, bumps, etc., are well within your transom's strength range.  What they do is to keep the motor from bouncing up and down or side to side which wears trim/tilt and steering seals/rods.  I use the old fashioned trailer to motor style since Ranger does recommend that style.  

[Way2slow]

I don't know if BRP still puts the engine supports on their motors but when they were OMC and for several years after the change over in 2000, it was recommended by (Johnson/Evinrude) to use the support.  It was actually called the trailering support.  It placed the motor at the proper angle so it did not put stress on the transom.

Now, Mercury was just the opposite, those that had the support, was only intended to be used as a stationary support, not to be used when trailering.  I think they quit installing it all together. 

As for the other brand motors, never messed with the saki burners so don't know what they had or recommended.

I still run the OMC motors and absolutely will not use anything that is going to place a bar between the trailer and the lower unit on my motor.  I've seen bad things that happened to motors with that setup.  One guy I met didn't even have his lower unit when he got home.  The only thing left was the bolts and pieces of metal that once held it on.

 

You will find boat manufactures like them, most motor manufactures are against them.

[TOXIC]

You're going to have to explain to me how anything that props your motor up with just the 4 bolts holding your motor/plate to the transom relieves any pressure on the transom.  It is not physically possible.  All any of the motor toters do, no matter what the style, is to stop movement and stabilize your motor.  Not a single one of them takes any stress off your transom.  

[Jig Man]

I don't know what you trim looks like.  I have had good success with Lock n Haul (used it for several years on a 225 Merc Optimax).  It won't fit my Merc Verado so I am using a pair of MY WEDGE on it and like them really well.

[Way2slow]

Remember, you are living in modern times.  When the "Transom Saver" was introduced, things were a lot different.  Power tilt and trim was an option (a fairly expensive option) and lots of motors didn't have it, and a lot of people hauled their boats with the motors down.   This left the chance of backing into a curb or hitting something much greater and damaging the transom and lower unit. 

They just happen to pick a great name a product to support the motor up to prevent this damage.  With that name and because it was effective it became a mind set in boat owners that it was an item they must have.

Even as hydraulic tilt and trim became almost standard on modern motors, it was still not recommended to be use when trailering because with the advent of the drive own trailers, if it leaked down, you were almost guaranteed to damage something.

Many engine manufactures quit installing motor supports, probably because it saved them a few dollars, so you were still stuck with either having to depend on the hydraulics holding the motor up or some other mechanical means.

I think the theory now is, that 500+ pound motor sitting up on top of the transom is going to damage it from the stopping, starting and road vibrations when hauling it.   The funny thing is, the first time you go full throttle from the start, you are creating more stress on that transom that any hauling could ever hope to create.

However, it you don't have an OMC or some other motor that has a trailering support built in, you need something, because I don't think it would be smart to use the hydraulics.  So, there's the Transom Saver, good for the boat, but not really good for the motor.  Realizing this a seeing the damage they have caused, better mouse traps are being built.  There are several good devices that mechanically lock it down though the hydraulic system.

[Further North]

On 11/4/2018 at 11:41 AM, WRB said:

What size OB?

Transum savers that attach to the trailer and support the lower unit can create some serious issues if the roads you trailer your boat on are not smooth. The saver transfers shock and vibration to the lower unit that can loosen parts.

The M-Y Wedge rubber cushion that holds the engine tilted and balanced works good, simple to install and remove, you need to prevent the powerhead from rocking back and forth, so stirring pads to prevent rocking help.

Tom

Nailed it, IMNSHO.

 

17 hours ago, Fishing Rhino said:

From what I've read, the motor manufacturers instruct you not to use the tilt lock to hold the motor up when towing your rig.  On the other side of the story, they do not endorse the use of transom savers of any type. They specifically recommend towing with the motor in a vertical position, unless it doesn't have enough ground clearance.  The purpose of the tilt lock is to hold the lower unit out of the water when tied to a dock or mooring.  

 

Some bodies of water have organisms which can grow in the water passages of the motor, eventually blocking the flow of water when the motor is left in the operating position.

 

But, they stop short when it comes to telling you to use some type of device to hold the motor in a position that provides sufficient ground clearance.

 

It's a matter of choosing your poison.

What do they recommend when towing on the trailer you bought from their partner that supplied the boat would grind off the skeg in the first half mile?

 

I'm thinking of Lund/Crestliner partnerships withe Mercury here, and Skeeter and G3 partnerships with Yamaha...

9 hours ago, Way2slow said:

I don't know if BRP still puts the engine supports on their motors but when they were OMC and for several years after the change over in 2000, it was recommended by (Johnson/Evinrude) to use the support.  It was actually called the trailering support.  It placed the motor at the proper angle so it did not put stress on the transom.

Now, Mercury was just the opposite, those that had the support, was only intended to be used as a stationary support, not to be used when trailering.  I think they quit installing it all together. 

As for the other brand motors, never messed with the saki burners so don't know what they had or recommended.

I still run the OMC motors and absolutely will not use anything that is going to place a bar between the trailer and the lower unit on my motor.  I've seen bad things that happened to motors with that setup.  One guy I met didn't even have his lower unit when he got home.  The only thing left was the bolts and pieces of metal that once held it on.

 

You will find boat manufactures like them, most motor manufactures are against them.

But...OMC sold a buncha "saki burners" with their name on 'em.  I've got one and love it...

8 hours ago, TOXIC said:

You're going to have to explain to me how anything that props your motor up with just the 4 bolts holding your motor/plate to the transom relieves any pressure on the transom.  It is not physically possible.  All any of the motor toters do, no matter what the style, is to stop movement and stabilize your motor.  Not a single one of them takes any stress off your transom.  

Well...yeah...duh...?

 

I'm of the opinion, subjective, not objective, that reducing vibration and bouncing around is the goal.

 

I broke three trailer-to-lower-unit "transom savers" in two years.  Never again.  My-Wedge, and similar will be what I use.

[TOXIC]

I have used the LU to trailer style for my 40 years of towing and have never broken one.  I have worn them out but never broken one.  I trailer from Virginia to Michigan and also to Wisconsin every year.  My average trip locally to fish is over an hour.  I also have never had any repercussions from attaching it to my LU.  Make sure it's snug, use a microfiber rag if you fear scuff marks and always use a bungee around both your motor connection and trailer connection.  Newer styles of the motor/trailer style also have a "shock" absorber built in if you choose.  On my 225hp I didn't use steering clips but on my 250 I do.  You can get some side to side wobble with that type of toter.  The biggest draw to the other brands is not having to do the ninja crawl to get under the trailer to bungee the toter to the trailer.  I understand that.  I have also seen the bracket style both bend and/or fall off while trailering and it's pretty common to have to replace the bushings, so no system is foolproof.  The important thing is to use something, no matter your choice.  

[DINK WHISPERER]

Motor mate for me