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  • Super User
Posted

A polyurethane topcoat is my number one choice  ;)

Posted

I used the rustoleum primer for aluminum and the rustoleum paint, I thought it would work because both products made by the same company but the paint didn't stick for what ever reason I havent figured it out yet. So I repreped the boat and went to tractor supply and got tractor paint and it worked great.

  • Super User
Posted

The ideal surface prep for aluminum

Clean the aluminum surface to remove all dirt, old paint and oxide from the surface

Sand: 80-100 grit: It gives better tooth and paint adhesion.  Sanding must be taken into the best previously adhered surface in order to have the new coat of paint hold properly. Start with an orbital sander; finish by hand.

Clean again

Apply the etch primer, within 24 hours of applying the etch primer, apply the topcoat finish. This will be an automotive grade or marine grade polyurethane coating. Use a good quality product to protect all the prep time and elbow grease you invested prior to the topcoat application.

Your best bet for a wash primer is from industrial paint stores, such as Sherwin-Williams. You are unlikely to find such a product at a hardware store.

Posted

Could you explain "best previously adhered surface"?

My brothers and I are working on a 67 starcraft. It has white outside walls that seem to be in ok shape, but we would like to update it a little. I was under the impression that we could sand down any bad spots, spray the primer just on any bare metal spots, and finish off with the polyurethane coating. Should we sand the whole boat to bare metal? If we don't, do we need to prime the entire boat?

  • Super User
Posted

"best previously adhered surface"

If you look at the edges of the original paint & you can not see an actual edge this is the "best previously adhered surface". If you can visually see an edge then this painted area will peel, you must then remove it.

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