Cork help

[Jmp_37]

As I was cleaning my rod some chunks of cork cane off, I was thinking about getting some wood glue and mixing it with some cork shavings to use as glue so that I could put it back together. Any suggestions?

[MickD]

It's worth a try, very well could work, and could save you from a bigger repair.  To replace the piece without taking the rod apart it is possible to take a piece of cork, turn its OD to the right dimensions, bore to fit the blank, then split it, glue it to the blank using tape to hold it tightly in place while the glue dries, then sand the surface to make it smooth.  The split will not be that apparent.  I would use waterproof wood glue or epoxy for adhesive.

 

Also, if you don't like the looks after you repair this, use Winn grip tape to get a new, tacky, and attractive surface.

[Jig Man]

Get a small can of wood filler and use it.  I've done it several times over the years before I started covering my handles with shrink tubing.  Wood glue will most likely dissolve when you get it wet.

[MickD]

Titebond III is waterproof and is used by many rod builders to glue cork rings together for grips.  Epoxy is waterproof as well, but clean up will be easier with Titebond III or similar waterproof glue.  I think the job calls for something that will contribute to structure since it appears that the existing cork is not in good shape.  You'd like it to not just fill, but to provide more structure.  Wood filler would be the easiest, but not the best, IMO.

 

Please let us know how you handled it and how it turned out.

[spoonplugger1]

Looks like this may be a foregrip with really poor fit and finish, an awful lot of daylight there, it may have a tape arbor just behind where the break is to take up the slop which left you no support on the end. Add cheapest grade of cork material, and Bob's Your Uncle as the Brits say. Since it's on the end, the fix is easier for you to do using the insructions from above. EVA is a great option, but if you can't spin the rod, shaping is more difficult.

[Delaware Valley Tackle]

Wood filler is enough for pits but this cork is comprised. I'd replace the whole ring. 

[Jmp_37]

Thanks guys, I ended up buying the titebond iii and took those cork chunks coming off out, I then glued the sides and put then back in. I filled the remaining holes with the glue as well. Here’s how it turned out, looks good to me ?

[MickD]

I cannot see the area where the cork meets the blank, but I presume you sealed that area well.

 

Considering what you started with, I think it came out very well.  Should give long service.

[Jig Man]

Now if you get some shrink tubing from The Mud Hole you can cover it and it will last as long as you will.

[Jmp_37]

The cork doesn’t actually meet the blank on the rod ( second picture ), the whole cork on the top price screws to tighten for the reel seat ( first picture ). That’s why the cork fell off, bad design. It’s left in unsupported in the top for a couple cm’s. Thanks guys

[MickD]

Oh yes, I get it.  Should have been designed with a sleeve in it.

[don309]

Looks like you have a Fuji-SK2-Spinning-Casting-Graphite-Hood-KSKSS. When tightening the hood, tighten from the lower part of the lock down cork (toward the reel foot). Another good cork fix, cork shavings & Elmers gold wood glue, Roughly sand any cork for shavings.

[RB 77]

On 9/3/2018 at 5:38 PM, Delaware Valley Tackle said:

Wood filler is enough for pits but this cork is comprised. I'd replace the whole ring. 

 This!

[JustJames]

Sorry OP to hijacked your post, but since we are all about cork and I alsio need opinions. 

Do you think I can repair this cork. I have not fish with this rod for quite a long time and I don’t remember it get this bad last time I use it. I do have wood filler but don’t have U40. Do one need to use cork sealer after it’s been repaired?

The cork is look a lot worse than picture with split, dry and chipped.

[MickD]

It's tough to do a good looking repair on this because it's very difficult to replace the cork with new without removing the guides, which I don't think you want to do.  It can be done by making the part out of new cork, reaming the ID to the correct diameter, splitting the part cleanly with a sharp blade, installing it  tightly wrapped (glue the bore and the surfaces that will be joined) until the structural epoxy cures, then sanding it to remove any misalignment showing along the glue line.  Start with about 100 grit and progressively go finer.  Clean it up as well as possible before taping - cleanup of hardened epoxy off a soft material like cork is not easy.

 

Something that might work also would be to use structural epoxy inside the splits and at the bore if necessary to stabilize the piece, then cork filler in the voids, then finish sanding as required.  When you do it, do both parts of the cork so they will look about the same.  I'd say it's worth a try before going with the tougher job above.