Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Hi All,

 

I've been using spinning rods since I began fishing, but I'm in the market to buy my first baitcasting reel.  I don't get out to fish as much as I'd like to and because of that, I would like to buy a baitcasting reel that isn't prone to backlashes/bird's nest. 

 

I did my homework before writing my post and it seems that magnetic brakes are more "forgiving" than centrifugal brakes.  However, in the reviews I've read (and I'm sure I've missed some) most people tend to think that the Shimano Curado 200K (with it's centrifugal brake system) does a better job at reducing backlashes than Daiwa's Tatula SV TWS, even though the Daiwa reel has magnetic brakes.  If someone, like me, is wants a reel that isn't prone to backcasts, why wouldn't he/she buy the Daiwa Tatula SV TWS with the magnetic brakes?  The reasoning seems a bit contradictory to me.  Any thoughts and insight would be greatly appreciated.    

 

For what it's worth: 1) I don't have any allegiance to Daiwa or Shimano and only mention these reels because they fit my price point and seem to be a good investment; and I'm going to match up the reel with a Dobyn's 705CB.  

 

Bonus points for tips on how to learn to use a baitcaster and how to avoid backlashes and fix them! 

 

Thanks! 

 

 

  • Super User
Posted

Have you looked at any reels that have both magnetic and centrifugal brakes? Seems to me that is the best of both worlds.

 

I have a Lew's Tournament MB reel that has both. Using that reel I only backlash when I do something dumb, like snag a tree on my backcast. :embarassed:

  • Super User
Posted

Reasonable enough question.  I don't know.  When I started using baitcasters five or so years ago, I bought a reel with magnetic brakes.  I thought that having external brake adjustment would be 'easiest'.   So, I've stuck with what I learned on.  (I've owned Abu, Lews, Daiwas, Quantums, Pinnacle.)   (If I NEEDED a new reel today, I'd start by looking for a Tatula or a Smoke.)

     I've not picked up a Shimano, just because the voices in my head said that I didn't need to mess with two different systems.  Clearly, Shimanos have a TON of fans, so I don't think you can go wrong with any well-made, widely available reel today.  You're evidently ready to do your homework and practice a little, so go ahead and dial back the apprehension a bit, choose either, and dive in.  Slightly daunting, perhaps, but it isn't rocket surgery. 

Posted

If you’re going to use the reel for cranks, I’d definitely get the Curado. At first, dialing it in was difficult but once you do, you won’t have to adjust the spool tension or brakes unless you want to or you fish a much heavier or lighter lure. I have my spool tension set so a crankbait falls at a decent speed and my internal at 2, external at 3. One reason I didn’t want magnetic brakes is because you lose some distance with them but Daiwa’s Magforce is different than most. Adjusting the brakes on a Curado K doesn’t take that long compared to an external magnetic.

Posted

I have the Tatula SV TW, and Zillion SV TW. It is difficult to backlash the Tatula SV TW unless the tension knob is really lose, or have little to no brakes. I backlash a little more with the Zillion SV TW, maybe because it has a lighter spool. I do like the Daiwa's because all the adjustments are external and I can adjust based on the conditions or how I'm fishing (full casts, pitching, backhand, etc) on the fly.

 

I just got the Curado DC, so I can't compare to the Shimano, but the build quality is also impressive.

  • Like 1
Posted

In my experience Daiwa is much more forgiving and easier to use. You can set up Magforce out of the box in a minute then never have to mess with it again. 

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted
3 minutes ago, Joshua van Wyk said:

In my experience Daiwa is much more forgiving and easier to use. You can set up Magforce out of the box in a minute then never have to mess with it again. 

Was that not true for your Shimanos?

Posted

 

I have the following reels

Curado 70

Curado 200 

Citica 

Tatula ct 

Tatula ct type r

Tatula sv 

 

I can say without a doubt if I was a beginner afraid of backlash, I would buy the tatula sv. That said if I wanted to learn to be more proficient and learning to us my thumb a little, I would buy the curado. People are very loyal to their brand of reels. Can't blame them. Shimano's and Diawa reels are both great brands. I enjoy them both. Bottom line is what you want to get out of the reel your using. If I were to start over, i would buy the curado. Your gonna pick out more backlashes at first, but you will be better at using a baitcaster. 

  • Like 3
  • Super User
Posted

Shimanos are often said to be set-and-forget reels.  I have some that are.  I have a few Daiwas that are also set-and-forget reels.  When I get into the lightest lures that I use on a baitcast reel, I find I have less problems with several of my Daiwas than my Curado 51Es.  Some people have the opposite experience.  I think a lot of it is what you learned on and what you use the most.  I learned on a Daiwa and have more magnetic braked reels than centrifugal braked reels.  Not all magnetic brakes are equal.

 

I do like dual brake reels.  Tournament MB is a nice reel.  I have older Patriarch XTs that if they backlash it is definitely me.  My older gold colored Carbonlites (a dual brake reel) does as well as my TD-Z 105Hs with 3/16 oz. Shad Raps.

26 minutes ago, Joshua van Wyk said:

In my experience Daiwa is much more forgiving and easier to use. You can set up Magforce out of the box in a minute then never have to mess with it again. 

I set the brake dial and spool tension out of the box on my Primmus and haven't had to touch it....yet.

  • Like 2
  • Super User
Posted

I'm not gonna tell you what to buy but I'll give you some of my experience. Not long before, I used shimano chronarch 50e (set it and forget it) and Daiwa SV105SH exclusively. Sometime when I grabbed my curado 70, I couldn't cast a thing almost every other cast I would get backlash. I was gonna sell my curado 70 so many times. The thing that curado still hold on to me is casting distance which is better than both if I don't get backlash. I then decided I would only use curado 70 to get use to with super free spool and new braking system. I bought 3 more curado 70 and use those day in day out until I can cast any weight lure 1/4 oz and up with no backlash.

Today I took my SV105SH out for my finesse fishing. I can cast weightless worm on #2 EWG hook, 50ft easily (Roboworm straight tail 7") before that I could only made it 25ft or less and not as accurate as today.

 

Even magnetic is easier to control but if you don't plan to use with super light weight lure centrifugal brake is not as bad as you might think and you would gain more distance and educate your thumb as well.

Posted

Both Daiwa and Shimano have quality braking systems and are set and leave for the most part. I’m partial to centrifugal when it comes to casting cranks, spinnerbaits, etc.  On the flip side I think the Tatila is the best flipping reel I’ve ever owned 

 

I’d say to learn on centrifugal. But if you are not patient and just want a reel that goes A to B, the magforce Daiwas are the ticket. 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
4 hours ago, Choporoz said:

Was that not true for your Shimanos?

Nope, my Curado K is a nice reel but I won't be purchasing another. 

Posted
53 minutes ago, Joshua van Wyk said:

Nope, my Curado K is a nice reel but I won't be purchasing another. 

How long did you try to set it up? The reel could be defective or it’s not adjusted right. What lures and weights are you using?

Posted
3 hours ago, TylerT123 said:

How long did you try to set it up? The reel could be defective or it’s not adjusted right. What lures and weights are you using?

I have the centrifugal brakes set to 2 on 2 off, when throwing a frog I have the external brakes set on 2 1/2 - 3 depending on the wind. It's a smooth caster and excellent retrieve but I'm not satisfied with the distance. My fuego outcasts the Curado with most baits. Maybe it's defective or I'm just not setting it up right.

Posted

Just last weekend I was in the exact same same predicament. Went to my local sporting goods store and had one of each in my hand for quite some time, trying to decide. Walked out with the Curado K over a Tatula SV simply because it felt better in my hand. I too am new to baitcasters, and before the purchase I watched all the videos I could on how to setup brakes. The more I practiced, I soon realized that backing off the internal end external brake adjustments fulfilled the thrill of casting long bombs and using my thumb became second nature when my target approached.

 

Again being a total noob, I realized that initially I relied on the brakes engaging. Now I feel like part of the experience of bait casting is using my thumb for control. I feel my thumb is better than magnets or centrifugal force.

  • Like 1
Posted

Great feedback!  It's also inspired a couple more questions... how much does line factor (I would use mono) matter when it comes to backlash?  Also, is there a rule of thumb for what to set your brakes at for lure sizes? 

 

 

Posted
20 minutes ago, el Largo said:

Great feedback!  It's also inspired a couple more questions... how much does line factor (I would use mono) matter when it comes to backlash?  Also, is there a rule of thumb for what to set your brakes at for lure sizes? 

 

 

Line thickness matters, heavier lines are thicker and harder to backlash, also easier to pick out. Mono is the thickest line for it’s # test.

Posted

I was going to stay away but....

 

Neither conventional magnetic, magforce z or centrifugal brakes are set and forget. A 11/16oz frog requires different brake settings from a 3/4oz Texas rig. A 5/8oz square bill requires different brakes from a 1/4oz darter and 3.8 keitech. If you aren't changing your brake settings, you're missing out on casting performance. Period. 

 

This is why I recommend daiwa magforce z reels. For example I have a 7'5" MHF that is spooled with mono for light topwaters, finesse jigs, light Texas rigs.... maybe a chatterbait or swimbait in a pinch. I loved the reel and its performance, but I had the side plate off of my casitas 3 or 4 times a trip adjusting my centrifugal brakes while I was out on the kayak. I could have gone to an extra shoe to keep from having to adjust them constantly but I would be losing out on casting distance. With magforce Z brakes I'm rarely under-braked as is often the case with conventional magnetic brakes but I still have the convenience to rapidly and accurately adjust the brakes on the fly with changes to lures and wind conditions. 

 

Those who choose to run more brakes to keep from having to adjust them aren't wrong... if it makes you happy go for it. Just dont confuse it with set and forget brakes. 

 

Edit... thicker line is harder to backlash but thick line is often stiff line and stiff line is easier to backlash. As long as you use a good quality mono you shouldn't have too many problems. 

  • Confused 1
Posted
32 minutes ago, Joshua van Wyk said:

I have the centrifugal brakes set to 2 on 2 off, when throwing a frog I have the external brakes set on 2 1/2 - 3 depending on the wind. It's a smooth caster and excellent retrieve but I'm not satisfied with the distance. My fuego outcasts the Curado with most baits. Maybe it's defective or I'm just not setting it up right.

Maybe your rod? Frogs are light and not aerodynamic, the Curado does well with heavier hard baits though.

Posted

I let my 10 year old step daughter, who has only used spincast and spinning reels use my Tatula sv the other day and sitting 10 minutes I had back the brakes off a fair amount and she was casting 45-50 feet. That was using a rod that was too big and heavy for her and her having not the best mechanics in the world. Not once did I have to pick a backlash or over run out. No way I would let her even touch a reel without the sv spool right now until she learns proper technique first. with that being said, I can take that same setup and pitch weightless senkos, 1/4 ounce jigs, or make 45 yard casts with a frog or heavy jig. 

 

*also didn't read the previous posts so you may already have your answer. 

Posted

If you are new to baitcasters, get the Diawa. I havent thrown one in 10 years. I got both the Tat SV and the K. I went with a Lews Tourny Pro G as well. The easiest is the Lews and its only 120$. All are 7-1 reels. With the same weight lure and same line, I can crank 38 revolutions with the Lews and 42 with the other 2. The Diawa Is the best in my opinion, but my first one had a faulty Twing that wouldnt reset. I dont see the Tat lasting long because of the Twing. I hate the 200k!!!! You will hate the 200K being your first. I can tune it in and rock it for an hour. No change in anything then all of the sudden it starts backlashing. The only thing I dont have this problem with is hollowbody frogs so its now my frog reel. I have always been a Shimano man, but have been out of the game for a decade. I will steer clear of them from now on. That 200k has left a rotten taste in my mouth. I could care less about that fancy DC setup. I know how to throw a BC and my wife dont fish so theres no need to get a few extra cranks on a cast for some new tech thats brand new. I realize DC has been around for awhile but this iteration is brand new.

Posted
8 hours ago, Beetlebz said:

I had the side plate off of my casitas 3 or 4 times a trip adjusting my centrifugal brakes 

Curado's have the break adjustment on the inside and outside the side plate. No need to remove the sideplate for adjustment s after it's set up. 

Posted
5 hours ago, Mjmj said:

Curado's have the break adjustment on the inside and outside the side plate. No need to remove the sideplate for adjustment s after it's set up. 

That's just plain inaccurate. The centrifugal brakes work with the magnetic brakes, they both could need adjustment at any given time. If you only needed one centrifugal brake setting you would only have one brake setting, not 4. Different lures fly through the air differently. What works for a big, fat crankbait may be miles away from what's needed for a slim swimbait kn a darter, for example. 

  • Super User
Posted

Here is my two cents. As many know from my previous posts I had a friend lend me a Daiwa several years ago and I sold off most of my 12 baitcasters in favor of Daiwa Exceler,( predecessor to the Fuego CT) Tatula, Tatula Type Rs and Tatula CTs reels.   The reels I had included some Curados, Chronarchs. They were good reels, but after fishing the Daiwas I preferred the Tatulas.  I have tested some friends of mine's Shimano MGL and new Curado Ks.

I would not trade one of my Daiwas for any of them at all. 

 Everyone has fixated on the Tatula SV as the only Daiwa to consider.

Now the Tatula SV is a specialized version of the Tatula CT family. It has a special SV spool and a different set of flyweights than a normal Tatula CT. It carries less line as well, but its claim to fame is its ability to skip and handle light lures. I am not saying it can't handle heavier lures, but it designed to do those tasks best.  If I was buying my first all purpose reel or a reel that will do other duties most of the time, then the Tatula CT or a Daiwa Fuego in a 6.3-1 or 7.3-1 would be my best choice.  Proper adjustments are important to every reel but these Daiwa reels adjust very easily BUT not the same as any other reel out there. I have been using baitcasters for over 40 years so I have used a bunch of different ones. I have taught a dozen or so other anglers how to adjust the Diawas as well as their own reels from several fishing boards.  I will once again post these two videos. The first explains how the Daiwa MagForce breaks work and the second one shows Brett Ehler explaining how to properly set up a Tatula SV reel. All the entire Tatula  family of reels and the Fuego CT reels adjust exactly the same. I almost never change my exterior magnetic dial even if I change baits of different weights.  Never adjust the reel for a "slow steady falling bait " like others. It will disappoint you for sure.

 

 

I hope that explains things a little bit more accurately.  I am a homer and I admit it, but these reels are workhorses and easy to use. One thing I will say for best distance I find these reels respond best to a nice steady cast not a hard jerky casting stroke. Good luck making your decision, there really not many bad reels out there in the top brands.

  

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Unfortunately, your content contains terms that we do not allow. Please edit your content to remove the highlighted words below.
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

  • Recently Browsing   0 members

    • No registered users viewing this page.


  • Outboard Engine

    fishing forum

    fishing tackle

    fishing

    fishing

    fishing

    bass fish

    fish for bass



×
×
  • Create New...

Important Information

We have placed cookies on your device to help make this website better. You can adjust your cookie settings, otherwise we'll assume you're okay to continue.