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Posted

There’s this spot that I fish often - but one of the problems with it is that there’s this one thick tree that has fallen right in middle, and I’ve got snagged on it multiple times - WITH A T-RIG!!! 

I don’t want to avoid that tree because that’s probably where all the bass are hiding out, but what are some ways I can fish that fallen tree and NOT GET SNAGGED - and hopefully catch some fish? 

  • Super User
Posted

Are you using weedless hooks?

 

If not, consider purchasing some and set them up Texas rigged on your plastics for all techniques.

 

Your sinker can get hung up on the tree but you will have more success in running the plastics over the tree trunk without any problems.

  • Like 1
Posted

Are you fishing from shore or boat? If you can, try to get closer so you are bring your bait up thru it, rather than horizontally dragging thru it.

Posted
24 minutes ago, jbmaine said:

Are you fishing from shore or boat? If you can, try to get closer so you are bring your bait up thru it, rather than horizontally dragging thru it.

That’s a good point. But does that mean I can not fish fallen timber from shoreline if that means dragging the lure through it?

31 minutes ago, Sam said:

Are you using weedless hooks?

 

If not, consider purchasing some and set them up Texas rigged on your plastics for all techniques.

 

Your sinker can get hung up on the tree but you will have more success in running the plastics over the tree trunk without any problems.

I am using weedless hooks (t rigged senkos). The problem is mainly (probably) when the lure gets tangled somehow with the branches and gets wedged in I guess....

  • Global Moderator
Posted

Peg your weight

 

 

 

 

 

Mike 

Posted
Just now, Mike L said:

Peg your weight

 

 

 

 

 

Mike 

I am using a weighted hook

Posted

You might be fishing it in the wrong direction. Come from behind the branches & not into them.

Posted
33 minutes ago, Mottel said:

That’s a good point. But does that mean I can not fish fallen timber from shoreline if that means dragging the lure through it?

Not at all, but you might get hung up more often. Have you tried casting to the outside of this fallen timber? Maybe drawing the fish out? Or top water, over the tree. If you cast into it and feel you start to get hung up ( like in a fork of the tree) try slacking off a bit then a fast jerk to hop it over. 

Posted

As mentioned before, peg your weight. And also fish slow. Very slow. When you feel you bait making contact with the structure, lift your rod slowly so that the bait does not hang up. If it get stuck, gently shake it until it comes free. Hold on tight cuz this is when the fish usually bites it. 

 

When i fish heavy wood, I prefer to use slightly heavier gear; 20-25lbs leader, and a heavy flipping hook. I also like to use a certain brand; Power Team Lures (completely unnecessary, but it works for me). The material they pour their baits is a little stiffer than most which keep the hook point from exposing itself so easily when it bumps some structure. The flipping hook and pegged weight I think are the key to minimizing hang ups. 

 

You will lose rigs. There is no way to fish wood without losing a couple of rigs here and there. 

  • Like 2
Posted

+1 on what @IgotWood said.  I seek out those trees when fishing from shore and I fish them with T-rigs very "gently" with good success.  If you feel a hang then give it some slack, jiggle it, gently work it through.  Most of my hits have come when I've slowly pulled the worm over a branch or trunk and let it fall on the side closest to me. Boom!

 

I also usually fish this with Sufix 832 as my main line and a flouro leader.  That helps when I do have to break it off.  

  • Super User
Posted

Throw a spinner bait over the submerged tree and bring it right threw the tree over the limbs and threw the cover spinner bait is weedless.

  • Confused 2
Posted

A lot of good advice. Work it over the limbs slowly and when it pops over hang on.  If it hangs up, loosen the tension and lightly shake it over the limb. 

 

I know you are asking about t-rigs but I actually have better luck with jigs when throwing into laydowns. I use to trim the weedguards but I fish them right out of the package now and don't lose nearly as many and haven't noticed one bit of difference on the hookups.

 

One last thing, make repeated casts starting from the outside then into the heart of the laydown. When done hopping, slowly swim it back to the boat for the next cast. Sometimes they'll follow it out and hit near the boat.

Posted

There are a few laydowns in my lake that will snag just about anything. I find a T-Rig worm with no weight comes through the best. If that gets snagged, run a spinnerbait on the sides, and over it. Sometimes I'll even work a frog or spook over the top and give it insanely long pauses and hope for a reaction strike. 

  • Super User
Posted

Running a spinner bait threw the trees, over it and on the sides of it can trigger a bite and if you do it right you won’t get snagged. Or just go with a pegged weedless trig as mentioned above...

  • Super User
Posted
15 hours ago, Mottel said:

That’s a good point. But does that mean I can not fish fallen timber from shoreline if that means dragging the lure through it?

I am using weedless hooks (t rigged senkos). The problem is mainly (probably) when the lure gets tangled somehow with the branches and gets wedged in I guess....

Mottel, do not use a weight. You don't need a weight with a Senko.

 

You have to throw the Senko where the fish live and hide, which is inside and adjacent to the fallen tree. So getting hung up is part of the game. Continue to throw your plastics rigged Texas style. Try a wacky presentation for your Senkos and trick or finesse worms to note if it may slide through the tree limbs easier.

 

Try using a 1/8 ounce jig head (weight at head with a 2/0 or 3/0 hook) with a trick worm. You will not have to be concerned with pegging your weight or using a separate weight. You can go to a 1/4 ounce jig head but that is a heavy weight to throw into trees when there is no current. Provider jig heads are used by the pros. I think Tackle Warehouse carries them or go on line and Google Provider Tackle. They are excellent.

 

And tell us about the line you are using. If it is braid, do not use a leader. If it is fluorocarbon then what is the line test? You should not go over 8-pound test on a spinning rig. 6-pound test may be too light for the places you fish and a 12-pound test may be too heavy.

 

Consider pitching or flipping your bait adjacent to the tree. You need to do this first so you don't spook the bass that are within the tree's limbs. If the bass can see your bait they will come out and hit it. Then slowly move your target closer to the tree and its branches.

 

Looking forward to your input on the above queries.

 

 

 

  • Like 1
  • Super User
Posted
19 hours ago, Mottel said:

but what are some ways I can fish that fallen tree and NOT GET SNAGGED

 

One thing you need to understand & accept is ya gonna get hung up!

 

It's just a matter of when & how often!

 

Try to minimize how often by utilizing the tricks mentioned above.

 

I'll go 3 or 4 days & not hung up once, then hung up & break-off 3 or 4 times in a day.

 

That's the joys of throwing that weedless wonder we call a Texas Rig!

 

The flip side is the Hawgs ya hang ?

Posted

you mentioned you are using a weighted hook. i would use a true texas rig, with a bullet weight.

  • Like 3
Posted

After reading through this I was thinking exactly what @bagofdonuts just said.  If you are using a weighted hook for this application maybe give what he suggested a shot (t-rig with bullet weight) and an EWG hook.  I don't peg my weights a lot but I agree with those who said to peg it for this application.

 

 

 

 

  • Like 1
Posted
14 hours ago, Sam said:

Mottel, do not use a weight. You don't need a weight with a Senko.

 

You have to throw the Senko where the fish live and hide, which is inside and adjacent to the fallen tree. So getting hung up is part of the game. Continue to throw your plastics rigged Texas style. Try a wacky presentation for your Senkos and trick or finesse worms to note if it may slide through the tree limbs easier.

 

Try using a 1/8 ounce jig head (weight at head with a 2/0 or 3/0 hook) with a trick worm. You will not have to be concerned with pegging your weight or using a separate weight. You can go to a 1/4 ounce jig head but that is a heavy weight to throw into trees when there is no current. Provider jig heads are used by the pros. I think Tackle Warehouse carries them or go on line and Google Provider Tackle. They are excellent.

 

And tell us about the line you are using. If it is braid, do not use a leader. If it is fluorocarbon then what is the line test? You should not go over 8-pound test on a spinning rig. 6-pound test may be too light for the places you fish and a 12-pound test may be too heavy.

 

Consider pitching or flipping your bait adjacent to the tree. You need to do this first so you don't spook the bass that are within the tree's limbs. If the bass can see your bait they will come out and hit it. Then slowly move your target closer to the tree and its branches.

 

Looking forward to your input on the above queries.

 

 

 

I am using 8 lb test Fluorocarbon, and I use a baitcaster. 

Posted
4 hours ago, Mottel said:

I am using 8 lb test Fluorocarbon, and I use a baitcaster. 

When I pitch heavy wood, whether its a jig or Texas rig, weighted or weightless im throwing no smaller than 17lb. Most of the time it's either gonna be 20lb big game or cxx or 50-65lb braid. A heavy or extra heavy rod and I'm trying to cross their eyes and flip em in the boat before they know what hit them. 

  • Super User
Posted

I would go up to at least 12-14 lb fluoro on your baitcaster. If you hook into a fish around that wood with 8lb line, that fish is going to break you off as soon as it gets down in that wood whenever you hook up.

 

Pegging the weight and tex-posing that hook point will help. You could also try texas rigging a weightless senko or Fluke and work that over those tree limbs. 

Posted

I would try what is being labeled the reverse rig for this application.

 

Take an offset shank hook and rig your senko so it is weedless.

Then take a nail weight or a screw and insert it into the back end.

(I take a lighter and seal the hole that I made if using a nail weight)

 

 

The beauty of this rig when working a laydown is after bringing it over a branch it will fall back towards the center of the laydown.

With a regular texas rig (using a bullet weight) because the weight is in front of the hook it will fall back towards you and away from the tree.

 

Since finding this set up, i've pretty much stopped using the traditional texas rig.

When my lake is at full pool there are a lot of willow trees and buck brush.

This rig can be pitched into the centers more easily than a texas rig or a jig and if pitching to the edge of one it has that tendency to fall back into the bush.

 

Also I have found that you can cast this out and twitch it like a fluke.

When fish are following and you kill it the bait falls back towards them, this triggers a lot of strikes.

Also to echo what the others are saying- you need a heavier line.

If you do get bit that fish is going to swim right into that laydown.

 

  • Super User
Posted

On the texas rig you might be using too heavy a weight.  Texas rig using no weight or a 1/32 weight.  Bury the hook in the plastic deep so it is snag proof.  Then fish it slow with a slow drag for movement and long pauses.  Be a line watcher an slight pressure even while sitting still.  Use heavy floro or braid and a stout rod.  Pause as long as 30 seconds while in the tree branches.  This should be pretty snag proof.

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