Daiwa THIS, Shimano THAT, Abu THIS, etc etc -HELP-

[TotalNoob]

I haven't been on this forum for very long but I've been spending a lot of time reading through a lot of threads, old and new. I came here looking for answers and often find myself more lost after reading through the information I find. 

 

This post is essentially a cry for help. Too much of my time and too much money (for me) is being spent researching endless products until I'm blue in the face and on purchases I'm not confident in. This circle of confusion has to stop because I'm not even sure how much I enjoy actual fishing anymore. I want to be better, I am getting better, I want to take logical next steps but it is very difficult in the information overload world we live in now. 

 

I'm just flat STUNNED at how complex and overwhelming all the options are. I feel like I'm probably in the majority of folks who either recently started fishing semi-seriously or got back into fishing (I'm the latter) and have been 1) completely overwhelmed at the options on the market and 2) confused as to what all these different options are, what their best applications are, and what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product. Easy game if you've been in it for years, beyond overwhelming if you haven't. 

 

For example, here's a post from an April thread that I recently found while researching - hopefully this can help make clear where my "beginner" confusion is:

 

Thread Title: Daiwa Fuego ct vs shimano caenan

 

Response: "Between the caenan and fuego specifically I'd have to go fuego. It's feature limited compared to the tatula but those magforce Z brakes are hard to beat."

 

My thought process is a common one: I want to get a quality reel that doesn't break the bank that simultaneously has some lasting power/durability. There are apparently multiples of these "lower" tier options on the market (what a shock).

 

Based on what I've read on this forum, the Daiwa Fuego CT seems to be a good choice (I'm DEFINITELY not trying to start a debate here) but how can I understand WHY?

 

In that above response, it's noted that the Fuego CT is "feature limited". Okay, I like that, some honest thoughts on a product (vs all the crap Youtube vids with affiliate links etc). But what does "feature limited" mean exactly? What features are missing? So I research further...

 

Among the many threads I locate is this thread from Nov '17 (Titled: Fuego CT vs Tatula CT) with the following response: "Have both. No performance difference, but they do look a bit different As far as colors and finish goes. Either is a great choice. If you can swing the extra 30 bucks I say tatula."

 

If there is no performance difference and COLOR is the most notable difference between them, why would you recommend spending the extra $30 for the Tatula? Feels like there has to be a better reason this individual would recommend spending the extra $30. And by the way, what the heck does "CT" and "XT" and "Type R" stand for? Are we buying cars here?

 

The worst part for me is, that particular thread ends with the OP (who asked the initial question) posting literally: "Found a better deal and got a Gen 4 Revo Sx for $75."

 

Boom. Thread ends. And so now I start to look up this Gen 4 Revo Sx to try to understand IT'S characteristics last night (how is it different/better, is it more durable, etc) but fall asleep on the couch with laptop in lap and 13 tabs open in my browser when I wake up.  

 

Okay now, having said ALL that, I do feel like I'm gradually understanding some of the nuances better (more so on the rods than reels) BUT there absolutely has to be a better way to learn these things without breaking the bank in the process and being left with tackle I may or may not ever use. I, like many others probably, just want to make good, informed decisions and feel confident about them. 

 

Specifically, I ordered two rods a few days ago - One rod is an Okuma 6'8" MMF "Topwater/Jerkbait" (obvious purposes, mostly topwater though and possibly lighter jerks) and one is a 6'9" MH/F Abu Garcia Veritas that I hopeto use to throw heavier jerkbaits in the Spring and Fall. This Spring I learned from many a night fishing under moons that jerkbaits work very well in my fishery which contains all three Black Bass, Walleye, and some Wiper.

 

Anyway, I saved about $40 bucks total on these two rods using a 20% ebay coupon, so I spent $141 total for the two rods. I feel like that's a good deal, I'm very hopeful the rods work out for the purposes stated, I guess only time will tell. Now, I naturally need reels for these rods... so the research begins again. 

 

Those above threads I referenced (and many others I didn't) ARE generally helpful, please don't misunderstand. But is it easy to see how I still walk away from them scratching my head? I'm often times left more confused than when I started. Just when I thought I was starting to "figure out" rod selection, now I'm stuck in a rut trying to find reels that aren't crap but aren't expensive (not that I would know the differences anyway). 

 

Where is the clarity? The fishing market must be absolutely killing it in profits, driven by: 1) The endless supply of vague information out there leading to confusion and resulting in misguided purchases by amateur anglers and, to some degree, 2) The more I read it's beginning to seem like some folks are closer to being "collectors" than actual fisherman - or most likely a combination of the two. 

 

What rabbit hole have I gone down and more importantly WHERE CAN I FIND CLARITY TO GET OUT? You'd think that for ALL the d**n youtube channels, forums, and marketing outlets that some good soul out there would have created a simple to follow Chart or Buying Guide for which reels match best with which techniques and which types of lines etc etc etc - and most importantly: WHY. Amateurs need to be able to connect the dots in this insane market where there's 10 products for every application. 

 

How about some kind of unbiased site where a fresh-faced angler (regardless of age... young, old, or exactly 36 .. you know, whatever) inputs certain general and specific criteria related to their fishery (target species), whether they fish from boat or shore, their experience level, budget, etc etc - then it spits out various information based on known techniques for targeted species, rod/reel/line options, and, most importantly, EXPLANATIONS ABOUT WHY EXACTLY THESE POTENTIAL PURCHASES ARE GOOD AND WHAT DISTINGUISHES THEM FROM COMPARABLE PRODUCTS. 

 

I understand this thread might seem silly to some - and definitely long to everyone. I know I'll be getting responses ranging the spectrum like "just find a fishing style you like and stick with it", "don't go crazy on tackle, just enjoy fishing and forget about all the hype", "check out such-and-such thread for buying guides" (btw I feel like these lack too much info, especially for reels).

 

When you have been in the game for a long time and have an understanding of products and their specific functions, a door is naturally opened for higher levels of debate with your peers regarding specific products - as it should be. But what does one do who doesn't have all this experience and already recognizes the rabbit hole he has begun to go down, lacking the level of comfort and clarity in purchasing decisions? 

 

I feel like at some point I can definitely be at the level where I can distinguish the nuances in products and make good decisions... There just has to be a clearer, more reasonable way for amateurs to navigate this bloated fishing market we live in now so as to not go broke or crazy in the process. I don't have thousands to spend without consequence and I would like to know I'm purchasing products that will get the job done and provide a good level of durability. Is that really too much to ask? 

[roadwarrior]

Well, is there any hobby, sport or activity where you can learn ALL the nuances from the get-go?

I don't think so.  Here is a few specific thread that might be helpful for starters:

 

 

[onenutinthewater]

Good to see I am not the only one that way overthinks these decisions!

Just go buy a Tatula and be done with it! I have 6 and dont regret a single one but do regret several other reels......

 

[Choporoz]

TLDR.   Adderall, maybe?

 

Sorry to be a smartazz...but, you want it simplified, its going to be simple.  Couple of Chop's personal observations:

-you get what you pay for here on BR

-very few product info posts incorporate thorough, honest comparisons...it just isn't every thread that you find someone who has compared the exact two or three models you're looking at

-very few of us are professional reviewers -- everyone has different things they value, notice, dislike, etc....so you'll find little unfiltered objectivity

-just maybe those tech/feature differences are subtle or negligible to 98% of the novice bass equipment buyers

-I'll go out on a limb and suggest that if you spend, say $120 on any rod or reel with specs close to your intended usage...you aren't likely to be disappointed

 

 

[roadwarrior]

 

 

[TylerT123]

3 minutes ago, Choporoz said:

TLDR.   Adderall, maybe?

I was thinking Ritalin? 

[TotalNoob]

8 minutes ago, roadwarrior said:

Well, is there any hobby, sport or activity where you can learn ALL the nuances from the get-go?

Agreed. My broader point is that it feels an awful lot like the market is set up for an amateur to spend way too much money and be left with too much unused products before reaching that point. 

 

Thank you for the links. 

7 minutes ago, Choporoz said:

-I'll go out on a limb and suggest that if you spend, say $120 on any rod or reel with specs close to your intended usage...you aren't likely to be disappointed

That's pretty much exactly what I'm doing, and that's exactly what I don't like about it. 

[Choporoz]

2 minutes ago, TylerT123 said:

I was thinking Ritalin? 

No...sorry....didn't mean to be insulting...just that focus apparently isn't yet a strong suit...and I get that can come from information overload....the fact is that little of the details on equipment beyond basic specs are going to matter very much until one gets some time in with different gear

 

[GReb]

The market is much more friendly to new fisherman than it was a decade ago. Budget friendly products are much higher quality and easier to use now. 

[deep]

Having a bunch of choices is good, except when it's not.

 

In vein with the keeping it simple theme, any aluminium (or metal) framed reel will probably last you a long time. Me, I keep it even simpler. Shimanos- citica and above. Unfortunately, I had to go through a few Daiwas and Abus and Pro Qualifiers before I found out the simple set and forget Shimanos work well for me and my thumb. Ain't going to try anything else unless I get it for free. My fishing time is important to me.

 

Let me take a stab at *what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product*

 

I want a reel that casts far enough, and consistently. I don't want to mess with the brakes or the spool tension every few casts, or everytime the wind slightly picks up. I'm okay with thumbing a bit more, but that's about it.

 

I want a decent drag. I don't need 20+ lbs of drag for bass fishing. My rods- well except my swimbait rods I guess- will break long before that. I do want a smooth drag though.

 

I want a reasonably smooth retrieve. Pre I-Curados were not that smooth compared to newer reels. I was and am okay with that. Still have a couple G's in the rotation. My standards are a little low on that front.

 

Finally, I need a reel that'll last hopefully for a lifetime, but 5+ years is okay. I have bought and fish used reels that are older than 5 years.

 

What qualities do you want in your new reel?

 

 

 

P.S. Don't start looking at Lews reels. They have (or had) a couple dozen models in the $80-120 range lol.

 

 

 

[TylerT123]

7 minutes ago, Choporoz said:

No...sorry....didn't mean to be insulting...just that focus apparently isn't yet a strong suit...and I get that can come from information overload....the fact is that little of the details on equipment beyond basic specs are going to matter very much until one gets some time in with different gear

 

Yeah, when I started to look for a baitcaster I researched the qualities that made a good reel, not good reels. I wrote down what a “good reel” had such as quality bearings, aluminum frame... That helped a lot, looking for specs of a decent reel and not someone else’s opinion of a good reel. Then I narrowed it down to what I wanted.

[Chance_Taker4]

Fuego CT vs Tatula Ct. They are the EXACT same reel EXCEPT the Tactula has the T-Wing line guide which allows line to move freely off the spool some people do not feel that this particular feature warrants the extra $30 that is personal preference. The "CT" means Compact (Type-R is in relation to the fast gear ratio to mimick the submodel of Japanese tuners). As for the Gen 4 Revo SX they retail for $160 so someone buying it brand new for $75 is getting it for 53% off which is a great deal no matter the product. Why that particular Revo is good is the light, compact design. It comes with both Magnetic and Centrifugal brakes and Abu Garcia has good customer services. 

 

Not to confuse you anymore but Lews, Abu Garcia, Mitchell, Pfluegar, Bass Pro Shops are all made by Doyo a reel company in Korea. There parts are pretty much interchangeable. "DC" on Shimano reels means digital control which means the brakes are digital (think computer controlled).

[PAbasser927]

14 minutes ago, Chance_Taker4 said:

Fuego CT vs Tatula Ct. They are the EXACT same reel EXCEPT the Tactula has the T-Wing line guide which allows line to move freely off the spool some people do not feel that this particular feature warrants the extra $30 that is personal preference.

I believe the Tatula also has a few more bearings and the side plates are also aluminum, not just the frame like the Fuego.  I actually just bought a Fuego CT on eBay last week with the 20% off code.  It is a very impressive reel for the price point!

[12poundbass]

49 minutes ago, TotalNoob said:

that it feels an awful lot like the market is set up for an amateur to spend way too much money and be left with too much unused products 

They are in the business to make money. 

 

1 hour ago, TotalNoob said:

What rabbit hole have I gone down and more importantly WHERE CAN I FIND CLARITY TO GET OUT? 

The fishing rabbit hole! You're stuck here for good. Look at profiles some of these guys on here have been stuck here 15 plus years! 

 

Seriously though sit back and enjoy the ride, it ain't all that bad. ?

[Fishingmickey]

If you want simple, Shimano Caenaan or Casistas (80-100), Diawa Fuego CT or Tatula CT (100-130). Gear ratio just hit the middle 6.3:1 or 7:1.  Rod's St Crouix, Doybn's, Shimano &  Diawa again dang near any of the one's listed on Tackle Warehouse. Decent quality rods will go around a 100.  You want to build a selection. Get a couple of medium action 6'8" - 7' (for lighter baits) Medium heavy fast 7'ers for bottom baits (jigs and worms). Medium heavy moderate action for Crankbaits, Spinnerbaits, Chatterbait etc. Last but not least one heavy fast action 7'-7'4" for frogging and heavy cover work, It is only as complicated as you want to make it. Get one of the above reels and one medium heavy fast rod spool with berkely big game 12-14# and go fish.

Fishingmickey

 

 

[Team9nine]

Probably of little help, but they're they're just reels...a tool to help you do your job (catch fish). If you simply stick to any of them that have already proven the test of time, you're fine. I refer to them as "standards," and this applies to everything from line to rods/reels to baits. For baitcasters, anything 'Curado', 'Revo' or 'Pro Qualifier' depending on your budget will work great. Why that is or how they compare to anything else model-wise is irrelevant and meaningless at the beginner level (IMHO). Who cares? You shouldn't! Just buy any one of their many particular models and go fish...the fish could care less which one you use.

[rippin-lips]

Here’s something to make it super easy. Stick to the top two reel manufacturers ( Daiwa and Shimano) and pick one that receives high praise for performance/value and offers the features you like. As the old saying goes K.I.S.S

 

Daiwa tatula ct 

Daiwa tatula sv 

Fuego ct 

 

Shimano Caenan 

Shimano Curado K

Shimano Citica I

 

[Mobasser]

3 hours ago, Team9nine said:

Probably of little help, but they're they're just reels...a tool to help you do your job (catch fish). If you simply stick to any of them that have already proven the test of time, you're fine. I refer to them as "standards," and this applies to everything from line to rods/reels to baits. For baitcasters, anything 'Curado', 'Revo' or 'Pro Qualifier' depending on your budget will work great. Why that is or how they compare to anything else model-wise is irrelevant and meaningless at the beginner level (IMHO). Who cares? You shouldn't! Just buy any one of their many particular models and go fish...the fish could care less which one you use.

Very true! All the reels that were mentioned will catch a lot of bass.Dont get too hung up on brand. They all have many of the same features. Maintain them the best you can, and they will all work well. One of my favorites- ABU 4600C. 22 yrs old and still works great

[TotalNoob]

I want to thank you guys for the responses. Regardless of how I made my feelings for this forum sound I just want to be 100% clear that I learn something every single time I'm here. Period. Reading through new and old threads is enlightening to say the least, even if some of it does lead to additional temporary frustration. 

 

This post has basically been boiling up inside in of me for probably the better part of 6 months now. It felt good to get it out honestly, and I'm thankful for the responses. 

 

4 hours ago, deep said:

Let me take a stab at *what actual properties separate one product from a comparable product*

 

I want a reel that casts far enough, and consistently. I don't want to mess with the brakes or the spool tension every few casts, or everytime the wind slightly picks up. I'm okay with thumbing a bit more, but that's about it.

 

I want a decent drag. I don't need 20+ lbs of drag for bass fishing. My rods- well except my swimbait rods I guess- will break long before that. I do want a smooth drag though.

 

I want a reasonably smooth retrieve. Pre I-Curados were not that smooth compared to newer reels. I was and am okay with that. Still have a couple G's in the rotation. My standards are a little low on that front.

 

Finally, I need a reel that'll last hopefully for a lifetime, but 5+ years is okay. I have bought and fish used reels that are older than 5 years.

 

What qualities do you want in your new reel?

I feel like the key question that needs defined is going to be something like "What is the best reel for my fishery?" 

 

As stated, we have the 3 black bass, eyes, and wiper. If I were dealing with bass and walleye only I don't believe I'd be diving too terribly deep into the fine detail of an $80 reel vs $120 vs $200 etc. Our Bass here (mostly smallmouth and spotted) aren't gigantic and there definitely aren't gorgeous 7, 8+ lb largemouths here. I believe my reservoir is what may be referred to as a desert reservoir - southern Colorado. There are some big Pike in some of the mountain lakes not too far from me, 2 hr drive tops. I've been there only once but I'm determined to land some big Pike as part of my fishing experiences. 

 

What I think about when I think about quality of a reel is that time in the future when I am definitely going to hook into a 15 to 20lb Wiper (gotta stay positive) - I don't want no stinking cheap reel in that moment of truth. But because that possibility exists primarily only in Spring and I guess maybe Fall, I probably don't need an arsenal of badass reels at my constant disposal. 

 

In April I purchased a Shimano Curado K because it was basically all the chatter. For really no other reason. The reviews looked great so I pulled the trigger on ebay with a coupon and paid like $134. I look back on it as an uninformed decision.

 

I'm frustrated with the external brake dial as it seems to stick very heavily but mostly there seems to be something wrong with the level line guide. I've spooled mono, fluoro, and braid and regardless of line type there is always a "pile up" of line on the right side of the spool. The left side of spool is low but the right side is full. It's very consistent and specific. I have 2 other baitcasters and they don't this so I know it's not in the way I'm spooling. So I'm frustrated with that reel. It's been sitting in it's box for 3 months now and I'm not even sure what to do with it. 

 

Anyway, I feel like I need some basic "everyday" kind of equipment, for summer fishing but then in Spring and Fall I want something really solid (or solid enough) to handle a potential big wiper or pike. 

[islandbass]

I think you were as informed as could be, so don't be too hard on yourself.

 

The curado in general is an everyday reel and a true workhorse.

 

It seems you just need to up to working standard although regrettably, it wasn't out of the box. That happens from any reel maker.

 

It should still be under warranty. It's one of the things I personally don't like about buying sight unseen. I prefer to hold the reel I want to buy in hand.  However, that is beside the point. No reel is fun to use if it is not in prime or optimal working condition.  Get that curado back up to speed, or exchange it at the store for one that is working right.

 

The curado, in whatever iteration is a true work horse. I'm just sorry it didn't work well out of the box for you. 

 

[TotalNoob]

5 hours ago, onenutinthewater said:

Good to see I am not the only one that way overthinks these decisions!

Just go buy a Tatula and be done with it! I have 6 and dont regret a single one but do regret several other reels......

 

 

4 hours ago, PAbasser927 said:

I believe the Tatula also has a few more bearings and the side plates are also aluminum, not just the frame like the Fuego.  I actually just bought a Fuego CT on eBay last week with the 20% off code.  It is a very impressive reel for the price point!

 

Is this the Tatula CT I'd be looking to buy ($99/ebay)? The one with the same frame as the Fuego CT but has more ball bearings and is all aluminum? 

 

New 2016 Daiwa Tatula CT Baitcast Fishing Reel 100HS Right hand 7.3:1 TACT100HS

 

Or would I be looking for the 2017 version (and what's the difference)? 

 

Also someone mentioned in another thread that the Twing system doesn't work with or is difficult with leader knots. Is there any validity to this because if so that would be a total deal breaker. 

[Team9nine]

19 minutes ago, TotalNoob said:

 

 

In April I purchased a Shimano Curado K because it was basically all the chatter. For really no other reason. The reviews looked great so I pulled the trigger on ebay with a coupon and paid like $134. I look back on it as an uninformed decision.

 

I'm frustrated with the external brake dial as it seems to stick very heavily but mostly there seems to be something wrong with the level line guide. I've spooled mono, fluoro, and braid and regardless of line type there is always a "pile up" of line on the right side of the spool. The left side of spool is low but the right side is full. It's very consistent and specific. I have 2 other baitcasters and they don't this so I know it's not in the way I'm spooling. So I'm frustrated with that reel. It's been sitting in it's box for 3 months now and I'm not even sure what to do with it. 

 

Anyway, I feel like I need some basic "everyday" kind of equipment, for summer fishing but then in Spring and Fall I want something really solid (or solid enough) to handle a potential big wiper or pike. 

Curado's are pretty much bullet proof. Certainly not an uninformed choice IMO. Sounds more like you got some type of bad deal from an eBay seller. The line spooling to one side is usually a worn pawl. External brake sticking doesn't sound right either. Sounds more like someone pawned off a used/defective reel on you. Probably too late to return. If so, I'd send it to DVT or similar and have them fix it up. If you don't want to do that, then sell it here and get a decent chunk of change back to purchase something else. As islandbass stated, they are workhorses. I've got a few that are nearly 20 years old and still going strong!   

[TylerT123]

The Curado’s levelwind is fine, mine does it too. I wouldn’t worry about it, especially with that deep spool. The dial just needs used more and it’ll loosen up or take a screwdriver and loosen the screw slightly. 

[PAbasser927]

55 minutes ago, TotalNoob said:

Also someone mentioned in another thread that the Twing system doesn't work with or is difficult with leader knots. Is there any validity to this because if so that would be a total deal breaker. 

I have a few reels with the T wing and I agree is does not pass a leader knot very well.  It can be done by lifting the line into the t wing opening right when the knot is about to pass on to the spool, but you do have to be conscious as the knot is coming up.  If you forget and the knot hits the level wind, you have to loosen the drag and pull some out since the t wing swings forward when opening - the leader knot keeps it from doing so when it hits.  Kind of a pain, but I don’t like my leader knot on the spool anyway so I rarely have to deal with it.

[MisterDeadeye]

Put simply, most reels and rods on the market will work. You could walk into Wal-Mart and buy a Zebco 33(even though they are awful now) and an Ugly Stik, and you would have minimal issues with all types of baits, excluding big swimbaits and tiny 1/16oz flies. That's only because of the difference in weight -- you wouldn't be able to cast the fly more than a few yards, and the swimbait could potentially break your rod in some instances. Even then, when I was a kid, I used this kind of gear fishing for everything from tiny bluegill to 20lb blue catfish.

 

Most of the discussion on this forum about using this specific line in this application, with this specific rod and reel with this exact gear ratio -- it's about creating absolute perfection. You don't need a 7'6" Heavy frog rod, 60lb braid, and a reel with a high speed gear ratio. If you have time and money, or if you fish professionally, yeah, it makes sense to create a dozen different setups with optimal rods and reels for each bait you use. Other than that, though, it doesn't really matter that much. What you gain by having all of these different optimized setups is minimal, so the choice is yours. If you want to spend thousands of dollars on fishing gear, go for it. If you don't, that's fine too.

 

You're exactly right. The market is designed to make people think that they need 10 rods and 10 reels, every soft plastic in 40 different colors, 15 types of topwater baits, etc. The truth is that there are dozens of reels around or just under $100 that will do just about everything that a $400 reel will do. The main difference is the feel. More expensive reels will often be lighter, or have more bearings, better handle knobs, different gears(Shimano Micro Module as an example). All of these features are based around the way the reel feels. The spool will spin more smoothly, the handle will turn more smoothly, the actual gears meshing will feel different("better" here is subjective).

 

The most valuable information is going to come from what the different brands offer. As someone above pointed out, several reels from different companies are made in the same factory. They're fine options. Magnetic brakes, the important spots have bearings, the gears and drag washers are fine. None of them are particularly special, especially on the lower end, but they will all cast things like Senkos, crankbaits, frogs, Whopper Ploppers, etc.

 

Then, you have people like Daiwa and Shimano, both of whom do things differently. Daiwa uses the proprietary Magforce(slight variations as you spend more money) brake system. You can find videos explaining the idea, but it's something that, to me, is genius. It's simple but elegant, and it works fantastically. Their more expensive reels are even more unbelievable. The same thing goes for Shimano. They use a centrifugal brake system using pins, that are typically set and forget, much like the Magforce. I don't understand it on a fundamental level, but essentially it utilizes pins to create friction, preventing the spool from spinning too fast. This is different than magnetic brakes, which work, but may need to be adjusted more frequently based on their effectiveness. The DC system is astonishing, much like Daiwa's more expensive stuff. For those reasons, I am partial to Daiwa and Shimano, and I believe that's why they have emerged recently as the top dogs in the market. That's why they're recommended so much, because of the VBS braking system of the past, and because of the introduction of Magforce.

 

Beyond that, there are companies like KastKing and Piscifun. They're targeting the absolute entry-level market, using cheap Chinese parts/labor(it's just a fact, I'm not hating). They typically have bearings everywhere, carbon drag washers, some have carbon fiber handles, waffled spools, and slick paint jobs. On paper, they should be every bit as good as some of the cheaper Doyo stuff at the very least, but one drawback of the Chinese market is that quality assurance is lacking. You're more likely to get a rod/reel that's DOA or that has some kind of catastrophic failure quickly. For that reason, despite the specifications, these reels are not recommended as much as Daiwa, Shimano, Abu Garcia, etc.

 

Now... I'm going to try to tackle some specific things you brought up. As someone mentioned, the Fuego CT and the Tatula CT are almost the same reel. They use many of the same parts(and some of the parts have different model numbers solely because of the paint job), and they use the same frame. The differences are the T-Wing System, two bearings in the handle knobs themselves(so I'm talking about the actual knobs on the handle, not the whole thing), as well as an aluminum side plate, although that last point might be false. There is actually no indication in the marketing that the side plate is aluminum, and you can find a post of someone complaining about the Tatula CT having a composite side plate(on the handle side), with pictures to prove it. Also, the parts diagram for the CT Type-R shows the same honeycomb pattern on the side plate that is in the Fuego's diagram. In short, the main difference is the T-Wing, which is enough for some people to suggest the extra $30, whether it's because of marketing hype, or the potential for "longer" casts, etc.

 

Back to general differences among reels. Corrosion resistant bearings cost more than standard ones. Aluminum, Magnesium, metal alloys in general cost more to machine and develop than composites do. Clicking spool tension knobs, metal drag stars, proprietary things like the TWS from Daiwa and X-Ship from Shimano also carry a price bump. Some of these things are important depending on what you need. If you're fishing in saltwater, corrosion resistant bearings are important. If you're fishing for big fish, a metal frame is a good idea because some composites can flex under stress.

 

With all of that said, if you're fishing for bass and you don't need to cast a mile or go to a tournament, you could close your eyes and pick a reel. You don't need a lot of drag, you don't need fancy bearings or even a metal frame. Everyone has their own bias, though, so some people will recommend buying a Casitas because of its stunning performance, while others will recommend something like the Fuego CT because of the braking system and aluminum frame. At that point, it comes down to what your biases are. Are you the kind of person who won't buy a Glock because it's "plastic"? Are you the kind of person who will spend an extra $20 on a pair of sunglasses for the brand name? All we can do is give you our recommendations. It's up to you to discern what's the best option for you.

 

I'm also a "beginner". Before this summer, I hadn't fished in ~10 years when I was in high school, and I kind of used whatever back then. I've read all of the same threads that you have, and if any of them were recent, I probably commented in some of them. There are many technical things that I've learned, but I've also seen people directly contradict empirical data despite it being right in front of them, I've seen people make heavy-handed comments on a particular brand of fishing line, or composite reels as a whole, based solely on their personal experience despite others disagreeing. It's important to see through the rhetoric and the bias, and to look at technical differences, and you also can't read a comment and take it as a universal truth. All of that has to be examined, and checked against logic and what you already know.

 

Pay attention to the things that are important in a reel:

 

• Max drag -- Are you fishing for largemouth and smallmouth bass or something bigger? Choose accordingly.

 

• Braking system -- Do you change lures often? Does the weight vary by a large margin? If so, decide if you are fine with turning a dial every time, or if you want to find a happy medium and forget about the brakes.

 

• Ergonomics -- This isn't mentioned a lot, but reels come in all different shapes and sizes. If you can, play with reels in person so you can see if the handle is long/short enough, if it sits too low or too high on the seat, if there's some kind of lever or knob that's going to bother your finger.

 

• Durability -- Saltwater? How long do you want this reel to last? Do you drop things often? How often are you going to breakdown the reel to clean it? Metal is typically more durable especially if you're a klutz, sealed corrosion resistant bearings will last longer, etc.

 

• Gear ratio -- My opinion might be unpopular, but this really doesn't matter too much for me, but that might have to do with the things I throw on the water. Lower gear ratios will bring in less line per handle rotation(the spool diameter and depth also factors in, but only slightly), so if you need to burn something out on the water, a high gear ratio like 8:1 or 9:1 would require less work. The same goes for punching around specific pieces of structure or using a frog, where the sweet spot can be relatively small, and you reel in to recast often.

 

Once you've figured out what you need, technically speaking, everything else is subjective. If you like the looks of one reel over another at the same price, and there's a difference of 2 bearings, who cares? Buy the one you want -- you can always buy bearings for a few bucks later. If you see a huge sale on a reel that fits the criteria above, get it. If you want to go all out on something exotic(JDM, DC, Steez), no one's stopping you. In most(if not all) relevant metrics, these reels will be better than a Curado K or a Fuego/Tatula CT, but there's no real barrier of entry. You won't be able to cast light lures on a Curado K as far as you'd be able to with an Aldebaran, but it won't be like fishing with a soda bottle.

 

I won't keep rambling on for much longer because this post is comically long already, but I'll end with this. Decide what you're going to be fishing for, and what you're going to be using. If you're fishing for something big or with sharp teeth, size up on the rod and use abrasion resistant line. If you're in some finesse application looking for panfish or some kind of skittish game fish, get an appropriately light rod, a reel with a light spool, and thin fishing line. If you're going to be throwing heavy swimbaits, get a heavy rod that to accommodate. However, if you want to cover most of your bases in a single setup, grab a durable reel like the Fuego CT(better deal than the Tatula CT, period, with the exception of the T-Wing's advantages which I mentioned above) in the 7.3:1 gear ratio, and a MH rod around 7'. My next purchase would be a M/MF rod and the same reel in 6.3:1 for treble hook applications, and then I'd go with a H rod with the same reel in 8.1:1 for frogs and heavy punching. Those three setups will cover nearly everything from weightless senkos, to crankbaits, topwater, flipping and pitching, even swimbaits. Rod length as it relates to action and power, is something that I don't know a lot about, but generally speaking, longer rods will be able to cast further and in some cases, handle heavier baits better(everything else being equal).

 

EDIT: It took me an hour to write all of this and there have been more replies. Regarding the Curado, it is the de facto workhorse reel. It's a fantastic reel in general, and it is undeniably better than a Tatula CT. Whether or not the differences are worth the extra money spent is going to be up to you -- how much money you want to spend, how much the "feel" matters to you, etc. I'd personally rather spend less money and get the Fuego(think of it as the Tatula without the T-Wing), because I don't care too much about the Micro Module gears, and the Magforce Z braking system is just as good as the SVS(if not better, which can be argued). Still though, I would use a Curado without a second thought.