Help! Rod and Reel combos Help!

[NathanDLTH]

As the title states this is all about gear. Currently at 9 set-up, two of which are spinning and the rest are baitcasters. Wanting to get the most use out of my rods and reels, I am asking for advice. Either repair the rods and reels, sell off combos, or keep things the way they are. I do realize that a couple set-ups seem identical and that’s what I’m trying to get rid of. Thanks in advance. 

 

Tatula Elite AGS 7’4 HF Ish Frog w/ Tatula SV 7:3:1

 

Tatula Elite 7’1 HF Heavy Jig w/ Tatula SV 8:1:1

 

Tatula AGS 7’ MMH/XF w/ Steez A 7:1:1

 

Tatula Elite 7’4 MH/ModFast w/ Curado K 6:2

 

Tatula Elite 7’3 MHF Zillion SV 7:3:1

 

Powell Med/ModFast 7’G w/ Zillion 6:3:1

 

FX Xtreme 7’3 MHF w/ Tatula SV 6:3:1

 

Cronos 7’3 MF w/ Tatula LT 6:2:1

 

Tatula XT 7’ MF w/ Fuego LT 6:2:1

[fishnkamp]

Okay so whats up?  What needs repaired or to be changed.  Think about it this way, and it all depends on where and how you fish.

 

Crankbaits (0 to 10 foot deep)-rattle trap baits-  which rod would you use?

Deep diving crankbaits (10 to 25 foot of water)- which rod would you use?

Jerkbaits- top waters, poppers and walking baits- which one would you use?

Spinnerbaits, chatterbaits, and buzzbaits-which one would you use?

Jigs- you already said you use the Tatula 7'1 for heavy jigs. Can that rod pitch, flip or punch?

What about the 1/4 to 3/4 standard weight jigs and texas rigs-which one would you use?

Carolina rigs- which rod would you use?

What rod would you throw paddle tail swimbaits like a Keitech or Reaction Innovations Skinny Dipper?

Frogs you already have that set with your ISH frog rod.

Your two spinning combos should handle the standard grubs, tubes, shakey heads, Ned rigs etc. I would probably have a 7 or 7'3 LT spinning rod and a 7-7'3" medium just to handle the ned rigs and drop shotting, but if your 2 rods work good for you do not make a change.  A 6'6" to 6'9" spinning rod makes skipping docks a little easier but again that may make no difference to you.

 

Some of these techniques you may not need or ever fish  that is why your fishing style should decide things for you. I fished for lakes, rivers, ponds and streams and never needed a dedicated frog rod or a punching rod. Now that i fish the Chesapeake Bay I use those rods often.

 

 

[NathanDLTH]

I don’t crank hardly ever unless squarebills or divers to 0-12. My Powell does double duty for cranks and jerks along with light top water if I’m using braid or mono. 

My 7’4 MH is more parabolic so spinner, chatterbaits mostly. 

My 7’1H can handle flipping, pitching, and some punching. 

I have a 7’3 MH that would be okay for t-rigs, it’s cheaper so honestly I don’t care if it gets beat up. Had no problem with a 1ounce jig tonight but no fish. 

The other 7’3MH I’m using for swimbaits and jigs, 6:3:1 reel. 

The Ish frog rod is always ready for froggin or a bigger swimbait, I’m impressed by how much it can handle under load. 

I have a 7ft rod, it’s extra fast and I tend to rely on that for topwater and anything else. It’s my go to rod when I’m throwing baits. 

 

I think you’re wise to point out ease of skipping docks with shorter rods. I’ll look into that. For now, it’s mostly neds, senkos, finesse baits and the 7’fters work good for them. 

 

Thank you for the reply. 

 

Nathan

[fishnkamp]

Many times we get similar post like yours and the op has not any idea what their gear does well.  Congrats on putting a nice arsenal together and understanding what each of them do well.  Now as for changes  that really depends on the waters you fish and the techniques that would benefit you the most. The reels you own are top notch.  Today's gear from $100 to $300 is so much better than gear was just 5 to 10 years ago.  I personally have about 12 baitcasting and 4 spinning setups in my rod box most of the time.  I use most of them a good portion of the year.  I fish a very diverse bodies of water. I live next to the Upper Chesapeake Bay and fish for large mouth bass and stripers on its tidal rivers. Sometimes I am up on the Susqy River chasing smallies.  Then I may travel to a PA lake,or a VA lake. Lastly I fish the Tennessee and Kentucky deep clear lakes for BIG smallies and walleye.  I have been changing most of my baitcasters to Daiwa Tatula, Tatula Type Rs, and Tatula CTs. They are not the most expensive reels, but they fit my style and are workhorses.  They of course got their technology from some of your higher priced models.

 

You may benefit from upgrading a rod or two to a higher priced, more sensitive model for bottom contact baits, perhaps a G Loomis offering or top line St Croix, but I would not be in a hurry if what you have is working.

[NathanDLTH]

@fishnkamp thank you. Yes, the bottom contact area is where my selection suffers and most of the time I’m a bank angler or co-angler in a local league. My waters here in the Midwest can vary quite a bit from gin clear to chocolate milk at times. We have some decent smallies and largies, along with some true brutes in pike and muskies. I do appreciate the time and energy to go through and help me understand where my weaknesses are and strong points. Thank you.