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Posted

So I've got a few builds I'll have time to start on in the next week or so.  Usually I just cut the threads down to fit the reel, sand the edges smooth, and place a winding check on there.  However, I think I'd like to learn how to start hiding the threads properly.

 

The first pic is something I saw on ebay.  It looks like a marriage between an Alps reel seat and a Fuji backstop?  Has anyone done anything like this?  Wondering how well they 'marry up' so to speak.

 

The second pic shows what I'm trying to achieve.  I'd like to be able to tighten or loosen it from the cork/eva in addition to the carbon piece of the actual reel seat as well.

 

Used the spinning seat as an example, but would also like to do this for casting seats.  Even something as simple as that Kistler seat with the piece of EVA attached to it.  

 

Thanks in advance, I'm sure this is probably super simple but it's something I haven't attempted yet.

reelseat.jpg

reelseat2.jpg

reelseat3.jpg

  • Super User
Posted

Alps has a variety of hoods for their seats. Check out their new catalog.

Posted

We've been hiding threads with the Fuji HPS and cutting and reshaping the corresponding cork or EVA foregrip since I believe the 80's, and they weren't the only ones making this for casting and spinning (pipe) reelseats. Split grips we were building back than were built threads back and covered. Some of my older S-glass rods have these non-discript reel seats that looked very much like the old Berkley Series One reel seats, closest seat now is the CUI Benchmark CRST3 seats which look very much like the Castaway seats of years past.

That said unless they've changed the thread pitch on the Alps seats, they should fit. I've switched nuts on Fuji, Pac Bay, Forecast, and AmTack reel seats for years. One of them, can't remember which right now, could at times be a bit snugger because the centering notch was minutely smaller, easy to fix though.

Posted
15 hours ago, spoonplugger1 said:

We've been hiding threads with the Fuji HPS and cutting and reshaping the corresponding cork or EVA foregrip since I believe the 80's, and they weren't the only ones making this for casting and spinning (pipe) reelseats. Split grips we were building back than were built threads back and covered. Some of my older S-glass rods have these non-discript reel seats that looked very much like the old Berkley Series One reel seats, closest seat now is the CUI Benchmark CRST3 seats which look very much like the Castaway seats of years past.

That said unless they've changed the thread pitch on the Alps seats, they should fit. I've switched nuts on Fuji, Pac Bay, Forecast, and AmTack reel seats for years. One of them, can't remember which right now, could at times be a bit snugger because the centering notch was minutely smaller, easy to fix though.

 

Awesome!  Thank you for the info. My two NFC x ray blanks just came in and I've been trying to figure out what exactly to do with them.  Ordered up a couple of alps seats, a couple Fuji seats, some HPS and KDPS with various cork and EVA to try and mess around a bit. ?  Also decided to order a point blank rod blank to try out as well.

  • Super User
Posted

Have fun experimenting. I just finished a Point Blank build. It will not be the last one.

  • Like 1
Posted

Which blank did you end up building on?

 

I was all set on the 701MHF.  Was looking @ the 7'3 models but I'm not a fan of extra fast actions.

 

Right now my favorite blank is the Eternity2 72MH.  I have two blanks, first gen and second gen that I absolutely adore.  Would probably build more but a: I don't need them and b: it's fun to try new things.

 

Would also love to see pictures of your build, you do great work!

  • Super User
Posted

Fuji hoods will not work on Alps MVT or Textouch casting seats. Fuji has the alignment notch on the bottom, Alps has two on the sides. 

 

My Point Blank is the 702MF. An all Fuji build; blank, seat, guides and thread. Have had very little time to fish this year; with workload and weather conspiring against me, but I have used the rod a couple of days, and it is one of my favs. I will be building more; for myself, if not for anybody else. Rods I've built on Eternity and Immortal blanks are also among my favs, and I will continue building on those.

  • Super User
Posted
15 hours ago, spoonplugger1 said:

The HPS nut has no notches of any kind, it just a threaded collar. If the threads are the same it will work.

Thanks for the info. I havent used that particular piece. Always used the KDPS hood

Posted

Hiding threads with the cork or eva is one of my favorite ways to build. Getting ready to try a grip with an inlay and then the skeleton seat with cork between the threads and other part of the seat and then a kdps sleeve with cork to finish it off. 

  • 3 weeks later...
Posted

Finished it up tonight.

 

M3NXH6e.jpg

 

Pretty happy with how it came out.

 

Still trying to figure out how they modified that ALPS MVT spinning seat I originally posted though. ?

  • 3 months later...
Posted

Just finished this build for a friend. It has rapid reduction guides, casts sweet. Yep he's a trout guy.

Camo 1.jpg

Camo 2.jpg

  • 4 months later...
Posted
On ‎8‎/‎4‎/‎2018 at 12:07 AM, sarcazmo said:

Finished it up tonight.

 

M3NXH6e.jpg

 

Pretty happy with how it came out.

 

Still trying to figure out how they modified that ALPS MVT spinning seat I originally posted though. ?

Did you ever figure out what hood they used with the Alps rapid spin seat to hide the threads? I'm very interested in the same set up and wondering if the Fuji HPS will work? I noticed the Defiant series spinning rods by Spiralite Rods are using a similar set up. Please let me know when you get a chance. Thank you!

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