Yumeya Posted June 18, 2018 Posted June 18, 2018 Never back reel, never needed to due to excellent drags offered.
Brad in Texas Posted June 18, 2018 Posted June 18, 2018 It looks like the thread here has pretty much run its course; but, I wanted to add something that I don't think has been mentioned. When you flip over to activate back reeling, your drag system is still operable . . . nothing changes there. So, if a fish takes off, the drag will operate just fine. The back reeling, or letting out additional line just allows the angler to add onto this. Not that a whole lot of us don't make minor adjustments to our drags "mid-fight" as sometimes the size of a fish or its power dictates some adjustment. Easy to do. I bet all of do this since most drag dials are so convenient. Anyway, it wasn't clear to me whether non-users of back-reeling might think that in that mode, the handle and line are "fixed." That is, the line movement is 1 to 1 with us turning the handle. Of course, the issue is we could never back reel fast enough to keep up with, say, a small mouth bass that has seen the boat and takes off. We'd certainly lose fish that way, else have to let loose of our handles and get one heck of a mess of line knotted up. So, back reeling is both supplemental to line going out via drag; and, it can let line out preemptively . . . before the drag kicks in for things like giving a fish some room to turn, to take pressure off of it but not too much where the rod would unload. Brad 2
Super User J Francho Posted June 18, 2018 Super User Posted June 18, 2018 The few people that I know that back reel with success lock the drag down at max.
Super User OkobojiEagle Posted June 18, 2018 Super User Posted June 18, 2018 1 hour ago, J Francho said: The few people that I know that back reel with success lock the drag down at max. That's a prescription for tearing a hook free from the bass' flesh. Back reeling is just a technique to better control the bass' attempt to free itself. Its not "cult-ish", just less understood over time. Today anglers choose to increase the power of their equipment instead of playing a fish. When I was in high school I had a manual transmission in my car that allowed me better control of the vehicle in less than perfect conditions. I really liked that car, but I don't think I'd enjoy driving a Peterbuilt around today... oe 1
Brad in Texas Posted June 18, 2018 Posted June 18, 2018 1 hour ago, OkobojiEagle said: That's a prescription for tearing a hook free from the bass' flesh. Back reeling is just a technique to better control the bass' attempt to free itself. Its not "cult-ish", just less understood over time. Today anglers choose to increase the power of their equipment instead of playing a fish. When I was in high school I had a manual transmission in my car that allowed me better control of the vehicle in less than perfect conditions. I really liked that car, but I don't think I'd enjoy driving a Peterbuilt around today... oe Agreed. Tightening down the drag on my Stradic Ci4+ 2500 would put the drag setting at 14 lbs. as I recall. And, with 8 lbs. leader tied to 10 lbs. braid, if I had a large bass make a sprint, assuming the drag was accurate and not giving in, I'd have to "back reel" off line and it just wouldn't be even a fraction of the amount I'd need to let out to keep the pressure off the 8 lbs. leader. Those runs happen so fast, so violent. But, I don't doubt for a minute that people do it, as J Francho mentions, especially those with weak drag systems. Ideally, though, no, that is not the intended technique, at least not the text book version of it. *** I am reminded of flying kites as a kid way up on windy days where we'd let a whole lot of line out sort of controlling it (like a drag), then a huge gust of wind would grab the kite and we'd let the line spool spin through our fingers, else the kite would break off. Brad
Super User Further North Posted June 19, 2018 Super User Posted June 19, 2018 4 hours ago, Brad in Texas said: *** I am reminded of flying kites as a kid way up on windy days where we'd let a whole lot of line out sort of controlling it (like a drag), then a huge gust of wind would grab the kite and we'd let the line spool spin through our fingers, else the kite would break off. I used to fly kites off fishing rods... 1 1
PatrickKnight Posted June 19, 2018 Posted June 19, 2018 My Daiwa's have it my Shimano's don't. I don't care either way because I rely 100% of my drag to fight a fish, that being said it is nice to be able to use it to let some line out vs having to open the bail. I would rather have it gone to help keep water out but then again I wish all my spinners had only manual bail trips. Cant please everyone. 1
Super User J Francho Posted June 19, 2018 Super User Posted June 19, 2018 16 hours ago, OkobojiEagle said: That's a prescription for tearing a hook free from the bass' flesh. Doesn't seem to hurt Rich Zaleski's success, but yeah - that's why I recommend new anglers set up their drag properly, and rely on it. I have watched video of him doing the back reeling thing. Wat I noticed is he isn't tugging on the fish as hard as most everyone else does. It's just calm, and easy convincing the fish back to the boat. It looks a lot like how I'd play a fish when I know it's barely hooked with a treble hook bait. 2
Super User NYWayfarer Posted June 19, 2018 Super User Posted June 19, 2018 I give you guys that back reel a lot of credit and respect. Anytime I have attempted it I got line underneath my spool somehow. Results are lost fish and having to take the reel apart to untangle everything. 1
Super User OkobojiEagle Posted June 19, 2018 Super User Posted June 19, 2018 1 hour ago, J Francho said: Doesn't seem to hurt Rich Zaleski's success,... It's just calm, and easy convincing the fish back to the boat. 32 minutes ago, NYWayfarer said: Anytime I have attempted it I got line underneath my spool somehow. Results are lost fish and having to take the reel apart to untangle everything. I can't visualize how that's happening, because I know you're keeping constant tension on the line with a slight bow in the rod. oe 1
HookRz Posted June 19, 2018 Posted June 19, 2018 I set my drag at a "disaster" setting. Very high. A lot of guys don't realize that the angle you hold the rod affects the drag...lower the rod the drag slips more easily. So when I hear drag I lower the rod tip to allow the drag to slip while I flip the AR switch. From then on I'm in control, not the fish. Just as an aside you would be surprised how many fish up to 3# you can land with 8# leader on a med-light rod without ever giving an inch of line. Sometimes I think we worry about breakoffs too much, especially when it comes to Largemouth. In bass fishing its usually the cover that breaks the line, not the fish. 1
Super User Mobasser Posted June 19, 2018 Author Super User Posted June 19, 2018 As these " backreelers" have said, practice on smaller fish, to get the hang of this.After all these years its become automatic for me. I'm sure its not for everyone, but Ill fish like this as long as I can.Many will crank the drag down all the way. I like to set my drag to give a little on a sweeping hookset. The reverse is off at all times. Sweep the hook to set. Within 2-3 seconds you'll know if its a large fish or a smaller one. Either way- backreel from the on. This combined with a med- med light spin rod to help cushion 6lb line is how I learned. I love it. Backreeled a chunk 4 ponder at sunup fathers day morning, on a roboworm split shot rig.
Super User NYWayfarer Posted June 19, 2018 Super User Posted June 19, 2018 55 minutes ago, OkobojiEagle said: I can't visualize how that's happening, because I know you're keeping constant tension on the line with a slight bow in the rod. oe Thanks. That's the answer as I was not keeping constant tension.
Super User Further North Posted June 19, 2018 Super User Posted June 19, 2018 Good stuff folks, thanks!
Super User Mobasser Posted June 19, 2018 Author Super User Posted June 19, 2018 I might add, use the best hooks possible. Good quality line of your choice and a quick reeling sweeping hookset. Good luck!
Pearle Posted October 29, 2018 Posted October 29, 2018 (edited) Why I like reels with ability to switch: - when casting you can get the line lined up perfectly with your finger that holds the line until releasing it. This makes a difference; sometimes using heavier lures and flexible tip rods the bail will slam shut when anti-reverse is on and it's not lined up properly. - When hooking lure to holder at base of the rod. - I use mostly light rods/line (mono). When you set the hook on a long cast you want the drag set to not give line as the line stretches and it will take more force to break it and set the hook well. That same amount of force when a fish is pulling at the boat may break the line because there's not as much stretch. That's why I back reel at the boat for big runs. I set the drag tighter because I know I can backreel at the boat. - When casting I like about 18 inches of line or so, depends on the lure, off the tip of the rod for best casting. If I reel too much in I just reflexive back reel a bit... If you're using no stretch line the issue of the hookset force far out vs by the boat's a non issue. But - I've caught 45-50 inch muskies on a zara spook on a long cast shortly after hitting the water with 6 and 8lb mono. Works for me. Don't like using the braided because I get fewer twists in the line with topwater and I can respook for $4 when I need to... Yes it's to each their own but this made me switch from Shimano Stradic's to Abu Revo's. Edited October 29, 2018 by Pearle Apparently mistyped and used profanity
Super User WRB Posted October 29, 2018 Super User Posted October 29, 2018 Set and trust your drag. Bass anglers tend to set drags too high, the "lock it down" mind set. If you ever fish for really fast swimming big strong fish you would learn to use and trust a reels drag system. Lot of engineering goes into todays highly effective drags to reduce over heating and smooth pressure. If you lock down or leave tightened a spinning or bait casting reel drag components take a set and damage results, the drag becomes unreliable and jerky. Try locking down down a drag on powerful fish like tuna or any salt water Jack family, if the line doesn't break your rod will. Try back reeling on a fast big fish it will rip the handle out of your hand. I don't back reel, never have. Set the drag at 1/3rd the mono/FC line break strength and use your finger tip on the spinning reel spool to add any extra drag that may be needed. I have caught LMB over 10 lbs using 6 lb line with spinning reels without back reeling. Tom 4
Linc337 Posted April 30, 2021 Posted April 30, 2021 I float and fish for Smallmouth on our beautiful Missouri streams. We move slowly down our rivers casting next to rocks, trees, and root wads. Of course we are not perfect and occasionally snag our lines. The anti reverse switch allows us to control the line as we move the canoe into position to free our lure. Also, I find it inconvenient to adjust the drag based on the various current speeds of the rivers. Finally, making a catch while the canoe is moving through a swift sections sometimes requires extra finesse manipulating the fish past rocks and fallen trees. I like my anti reverse switch as it pertains to my style of fishing. 2
Super User Deleted account Posted April 30, 2021 Super User Posted April 30, 2021 I haven't back reeled in over 3 years, and have no intention to in the future, even if chased by Zombies...
Super User Mobasser Posted April 30, 2021 Author Super User Posted April 30, 2021 My old thread from 2018. We've had some more threads on this topic since. It's been covered for now.
CrankFate Posted April 30, 2021 Posted April 30, 2021 On 6/17/2018 at 7:49 PM, Russ E said: I would prefer the spinning reels did not have the switch. Just like on my baitcasters, I rely on the drag.
Super User OkobojiEagle Posted May 1, 2021 Super User Posted May 1, 2021 15 hours ago, Mobasser said: My old thread from 2018. We've had some more threads on this topic since. It's been covered for now. No more than many less trivial topics... oe
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