BassResource.com Administrator Glenn Posted June 7, 2018 BassResource.com Administrator Posted June 7, 2018 It eliminates it. I've never had line twist issues when I follow those tips outlined in the video. That's why I made the video. Note, specifically for dropshotting, I use a spinshot hook, which eliminates line twist caused by poorly rigged bait (e.g. "crooked"). But if you rig it right in the first place, you don't need the spinshot hook. Quote
EGbassing Posted June 7, 2018 Author Posted June 7, 2018 8 minutes ago, Glenn said: It eliminates it. I've never had line twist issues when I follow those tips outlined in the video. That's why I made the video. Note, specifically for dropshotting, I use a spinshot hook, which eliminates line twist caused by poorly rigged bait (e.g. "crooked"). But if you rig it right in the first place, you don't need the spinshot hook. That's good to know. I'm leaning towards just using straight flouro now, but I can't decide. I'll have to research it a bit. Also, I'll definitely try to follow the tips in that video. Thanks for your help. Quote
grub_man Posted June 7, 2018 Posted June 7, 2018 6lb mono is all you need. Spool up and go to work. If you want, spool up braid and tie direct. Bass are not line/leader shy. If you are having to make compromises in order to fish a line, such as adding a leader or going out of your way to manage the properties of the line, are you really using the right line? We aren't surf casting where a shock leader is necessary to handle high loads for short periods of time during the cast. I'll add a little bit to Glenn's video. Some of the things are rehashed here, but I spell out the way that I handle my spinning reels and line. I don't understand the issues people have with line twist on spinning gear. Yes, like everyone, I dealt with them for a few years when I was learning to fish, but once I learned a few things, it put an end to line twist issues. The issues are purely user error. First, DO NOT reel when you hear the drag clicking. If the drag is clicking, you are either reeling line that is at a dead stop, or reeling against line going out. Either way, you are twisting the line like crazy. Spooling line incorrectly is the biggest issue for line twist. I've tried laying the spool on the floor and checking for twist, flipping it and yada yada yada. It didn't work for me. I finally gave up and decided to try spooling my spinning gear exactly the same way I spool my casting gear. The technique I use is a bit awkward, but I developed it when I was a teenager and convinced that respooling was necessary every few weeks and no one wanted to hold a spool for me. (If I fished for big pay days, I would probably make sure I had fresh line on the reels I expected to use most during the tourney, but I don't.) 1. I put on a nice thick pair of socks. 2. Run the line through every guide on the rod and tie to my backing or my spool. 3. Hold the spool between my big toes, one on each hole on the sides of the spool, to provide tension. 4. With the line coming off of the top of the spool, provide enough tension so it feels like you are fighting about a 12" bass. This packs the line tight enough to keep it from digging too much later on. With braid, a little more tension is not a bad thing. 5. Reel until the spool is full. 6. Tie on a lure and go fishing. The majority of issues that people attribute to line twist generally aren't twist related. They come from a loop of line sticking up perpendicular to the line laying on the reel. When that loop is formed, during a cast, the line coming off of the spool will tug on that loop slightly, and what happens is you end up with line coming off the outer part of the spool and line coming off from a few rows deep on the spool. As the line comes off at the wrong time, nasty tangles happen and are also referred to as wind knots. Prevent loops on your spinning reel spool and stop wind knots from happening. Close the bail by hand and give the line a small tug to seat it on the spool each and every cast. Make your retrieve. Once you do it for a couple of trips, it becomes a habit and a fluid motion. Also, it helps remind you to keep your off-hand close to the spool so you can gently touch the line and feather it, resulting in a bit more control, similar to thumbing a bait casting spool. Prevent line twist. Don't throw in-line spinners without a swivel in front. If you must fish in-line spinners, after you are done, cut of the lure and drag a little over a long cast of line behind the boat to untwist it, or walk out the line and reel it in under tension twice. Rig your plastics straight. If you must rig wacky style, pay attention for line twist and drag the line behind the boat and/or walk it out as necessary. It has probably been close to 15 years since I've had any line management issues on any type of gear. Once you develop the proper technique, things become much more manageable. Another issue that people mention once in a while with spinning gear, particularly with fluoro or stiffer mono is the tendency for the line to want to jump off of the spool. If you spool it under enough tension, it won't want to jump off so much. If you are using a stiffer line, stop a couple layers sooner than you would stop with a limp mono or braid, as the line won't pack as nicely when using slack line techniques. A few fewer yards on the spool will help keep it from springing off. 1 Quote
Super User Boomstick Posted June 8, 2018 Super User Posted June 8, 2018 First, I second what Glenn said. I wanted to add that on my Pflueger President (not XT), the largest issue I had running straight mono is losing loops on the spool -- which was my own fault. I tend to fill the reel a little bit over 1/8" from the edge of the spool, which works on many reels but on the President, you have to be sure to leave a full 1.8" from the spool. The only issues with line twist were caused not from normal casting, but a heavy wind gust blowing my line around, which is nothing I would deal with under normal conditions. I have other reels that have line twist issues, but that is largely because the bail does not leave much room for my thumb. I spooled that reel with braid and it's been good to go since. I would still go with 15lb braid to leader personally if money is a non factor (plus the braid lasts longer) but if you have the fluorocarbon already or are on a budget, spool it up! 1 Quote
EGbassing Posted June 8, 2018 Author Posted June 8, 2018 On 6/7/2018 at 3:44 PM, grub_man said: 6lb mono is all you need. Spool up and go to work. If you want, spool up braid and tie direct. Bass are not line/leader shy. If you are having to make compromises in order to fish a line, such as adding a leader or going out of your way to manage the properties of the line, are you really using the right line? We aren't surf casting where a shock leader is necessary to handle high loads for short periods of time during the cast. I'll add a little bit to Glenn's video. Some of the things are rehashed here, but I spell out the way that I handle my spinning reels and line. I don't understand the issues people have with line twist on spinning gear. Yes, like everyone, I dealt with them for a few years when I was learning to fish, but once I learned a few things, it put an end to line twist issues. The issues are purely user error. First, DO NOT reel when you hear the drag clicking. If the drag is clicking, you are either reeling line that is at a dead stop, or reeling against line going out. Either way, you are twisting the line like crazy. Spooling line incorrectly is the biggest issue for line twist. I've tried laying the spool on the floor and checking for twist, flipping it and yada yada yada. It didn't work for me. I finally gave up and decided to try spooling my spinning gear exactly the same way I spool my casting gear. The technique I use is a bit awkward, but I developed it when I was a teenager and convinced that respooling was necessary every few weeks and no one wanted to hold a spool for me. (If I fished for big pay days, I would probably make sure I had fresh line on the reels I expected to use most during the tourney, but I don't.) 1. I put on a nice thick pair of socks. 2. Run the line through every guide on the rod and tie to my backing or my spool. 3. Hold the spool between my big toes, one on each hole on the sides of the spool, to provide tension. 4. With the line coming off of the top of the spool, provide enough tension so it feels like you are fighting about a 12" bass. This packs the line tight enough to keep it from digging too much later on. With braid, a little more tension is not a bad thing. 5. Reel until the spool is full. 6. Tie on a lure and go fishing. The majority of issues that people attribute to line twist generally aren't twist related. They come from a loop of line sticking up perpendicular to the line laying on the reel. When that loop is formed, during a cast, the line coming off of the spool will tug on that loop slightly, and what happens is you end up with line coming off the outer part of the spool and line coming off from a few rows deep on the spool. As the line comes off at the wrong time, nasty tangles happen and are also referred to as wind knots. Prevent loops on your spinning reel spool and stop wind knots from happening. Close the bail by hand and give the line a small tug to seat it on the spool each and every cast. Make your retrieve. Once you do it for a couple of trips, it becomes a habit and a fluid motion. Also, it helps remind you to keep your off-hand close to the spool so you can gently touch the line and feather it, resulting in a bit more control, similar to thumbing a bait casting spool. Prevent line twist. Don't throw in-line spinners without a swivel in front. If you must fish in-line spinners, after you are done, cut of the lure and drag a little over a long cast of line behind the boat to untwist it, or walk out the line and reel it in under tension twice. Rig your plastics straight. If you must rig wacky style, pay attention for line twist and drag the line behind the boat and/or walk it out as necessary. It has probably been close to 15 years since I've had any line management issues on any type of gear. Once you develop the proper technique, things become much more manageable. Another issue that people mention once in a while with spinning gear, particularly with fluoro or stiffer mono is the tendency for the line to want to jump off of the spool. If you spool it under enough tension, it won't want to jump off so much. If you are using a stiffer line, stop a couple layers sooner than you would stop with a limp mono or braid, as the line won't pack as nicely when using slack line techniques. A few fewer yards on the spool will help keep it from springing off. Thanks. That was really informative. Quote
Super User Sam Posted June 9, 2018 Super User Posted June 9, 2018 8-pound fluorocarbon line on a spinning rig. 8-pound test braid on a spinning rig, with or without a fluorocarbon leader. Quote
EGbassing Posted June 9, 2018 Author Posted June 9, 2018 1 hour ago, Sam said: 8-pound fluorocarbon line on a spinning rig. 8-pound test braid on a spinning rig, with or without a fluorocarbon leader. Thanks. I think I'll go with the braid/flouro leader combination. 1 Quote
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