Does anyone use a snap swivel on their lines permanently?

[jbsoonerfan]

12 hours ago, tcbass said:

 

Disagree. 

 

 

Caught a musky alongside my boat. I didn’t realized it was hooked and neither did it. It was just sitting there floating alongside the boat with my Ragetail Toad in it’s mouth. Friend went to net it and did it incorrectly going from the tail. The musky about a 20lber took off straight away and tore my swivel open. 

 

It was this kind of snap swivel. 

 

 

 

Learn to set your drag.

[tcbass]

36 minutes ago, jbsoonerfan said:

 

Learn to set your drag.

 

I do know how to set my drag, thank you. 

 

I had the drag cranked down because I was setting the hook on frogs in lilly pads.

 

Wasn’t expecting a musky out of nowhere. 

[jbsoonerfan]

So, you admit your drag was not set properly. A snap should not fail under normal fishing conditions (where the user does their job) Thanks for admitting it as I knew that was the case.

[robbiez111]

Man JB, this is a forum to learn from each other not tell someone there a idiot or to prove your point. But gold star for you bud

[Crestliner2008]

On 6/1/2018 at 1:44 AM, jbsoonerfan said:

Anyone who blames a lost fish on a snap swivel or snap isn't being honest. I have horsed it 30 lb blue cats on a snap swivel. No bass is going to straighten out a snap swivel.

 

I use the KVD duo lock on all my treble hook moving baits.

Sorry to disagree. I've been a victim of a snap breaking and causing a lost lure (jerkbait) and fish (big smallmouth). That's being honest. It can happen. Any pierce of fishing equipment can fail. To deny that is foolishness. The odds of it happening maybe be remote, as in my case, but don't fool yourself. If it's made by man, it can fail.

 

I still use plain snaps with most lures and if I'm fishing spinners (inline only), I'll place a swivel about 18" - 20" above the line tie.

[tcbass]

Snaps are great but have a chance of breaking. Something like a Mustad Fastach can also break but it is stronger so there should be less chance of that. Use what works best for you. Good luck!

[tcbass]

19 hours ago, jbsoonerfan said:

So, you admit your drag was not set properly. A snap should not fail under normal fishing conditions (where the user does their job) Thanks for admitting it as I knew that was the case.

 

 

You are incorrect. Sorry. 

 

 

I set my drag properly for the technique I was using. It is a technique for bass which I was fishing. Not great for musky which I was not fishing for nor expecting. 

 

These article explains how to set your drag as I did. 

 

 

https://m.bassmaster.com/tips/dave-wolak-setting-drag

 

 

 

https://coloradooutdoorsmag.com/2017/08/01/summertime-bass-fishing-with-frogs/amp/

 

 

This forum is about fisherman helping fisherman, not proving who is right or wrong. It’s also not a forum to go after people. 

 

In this case you are wrong. You don’t need to admit it or apologize. 

[Turkey sandwich]

No need to be all preachy, fellas.  Having the drag tensioned almost all the way down makes good sense for frog fishing.  Using a snap, however, wouldn't be my first choice.  I've seen most snaps fail (models like the Mustard posted above are the exception) resulting in lots of cursing.  I'll fish swivels on baits likely to twist 12-24" up the leader, generally.  For in-line spinners, spoons, and some soft plastic worm techniques, this makes good sense.  For almost everything else, it doesn't really serve a purpose.  As for snaps, I use them on my crank bait rods pretty religiously because they don't impede action (I might even argue that a snap or loop knot actually helps add action to the bait) on crankbaits, and make switching them out much, much easier.  Other than that, they generally do more harm than good.  

 

General rule, if you don't see better guides or elite tournament guys doing something, there's generally a reason.

[jbsoonerfan]

2 hours ago, Turkey sandwich said:

No need to be all preachy, fellas.  Having the drag tensioned almost all the way down makes good sense for frog fishing.  Using a snap, however, wouldn't be my first choice.  I've seen most snaps fail (models like the Mustard posted above are the exception) resulting in lots of cursing.  I'll fish swivels on baits likely to twist 12-24" up the leader, generally.  For in-line spinners, spoons, and some soft plastic worm techniques, this makes good sense.  For almost everything else, it doesn't really serve a purpose.  As for snaps, I use them on my crank bait rods pretty religiously because they don't impede action (I might even argue that a snap or loop knot actually helps add action to the bait) on crankbaits, and make switching them out much, much easier.  Other than that, they generally do more harm than good.  

 

General rule, if you don't see better guides or elite tournament guys doing something, there's generally a reason.

Exactly my point. Under normal fishing conditions, when used properly, a snap or snap swivel will not fail. YES, once in a while a fish may bend one, but it shouldn't under normal fishing conditions. SO, I actually was trying to help the OP by saying there are options that he should fish with and have plenty of confidence in. Then we got "well one time at band camp" guys coming in with their story about one fish in their life that broke a snap or swivel. Sorry, I rubbed you guys the wrong way and you had to tell me about the "one" time.

 

I will go back to Everything Else and listen to Big Bill talk about the "one" time he saw Bigfoot.

[tcbass]

1 hour ago, jbsoonerfan said:

Exactly my point. Under normal fishing conditions, when used properly, a snap or snap swivel will not fail. YES, once in a while a fish may bend one, but it shouldn't under normal fishing conditions. SO, I actually was trying to help the OP by saying there are options that he should fish with and have plenty of confidence in. Then we got "well one time at band camp" guys coming in with their story about one fish in their life that broke a snap or swivel. Sorry, I rubbed you guys the wrong way and you had to tell me about the "one" time.

 

I will go back to Everything Else and listen to Big Bill talk about the "one" time he saw Bigfoot.

 

No worries bro. Good fishing!

[Bankbeater]

I use snaps for moving baits, and topwaters.  Anything being worked along the bottom gets tied on.

[govallis]

I always do and never worry about twisting. But I separate the swivel and snap 18" apart, then I don't worry about any potential influence to the action of the bait and fish have less chance to see them being not together. I use the smallest ones, giving the least chance for fish to see them.

[Subaqua Adinterim]

 

I use the above type all the time.  I will not use for for attaching lures such as a blade bait or chatterbait that I tie direct to the snap on the lure, or with a jig or hook which are tied direct to the line ( I may use a swivel without a snap, a few feet above the knot to prevent line twist).  A swivel with a snap as pictured above, makes changing lures such as crankbaits, frogs, or spinnerbaits much easier, especially in a kayak.  Benefits, besides being able to change out lures faster; are that swivels cut down on line twist and also help to avoid torque on the lure when fighting and landing a fish, thus cutting down on line break offs or hooks shaking out.

 

I recommend the above type of snap swivel (crosslok) as I have never had one fail over years of usage.  Anything can fail, however, I will not use the type that was cited as failing in this thread, which is secured by inserting the end into a small metal tab. That style, in my experience, is more likely to fail because of the flawed design - note: I have not used that style in years because of experienced failures.

 

I have had no failures with the crosslok style and recommend the use or the smallest possible size for your application as well as a quality brand such as Spro, Sampo, etc.  Also, I prefer a snap that has a more rounded bend in the front, rather than an angled or squared off front.  Fishing is supposed to be fun, so use whatever makes your experience more enjoyable and have fun.

 

 

[Koz]

Lately I've been using these VMC Duolock Snap Swivels in black.

 

 

[bhoff]

Once I became proficient at tying knots I never really saw the need for them. Just another thing to get snagged with.

[bitsandbass]

On 6/1/2018 at 4:02 AM, tcbass said:

 

Disagree. 

 

 

Caught a musky alongside my boat. I didn’t realized it was hooked and neither did it. It was just sitting there floating alongside the boat with my Ragetail Toad in it’s mouth. Friend went to net it and did it incorrectly going from the tail. The musky about a 20lber took off straight away and tore my swivel open. 

 

It was this kind of snap swivel. 

 

 

 

I use these and really like being able to switch lures. 

[soflabasser]

4 hours ago, bhoff said:

Once I became proficient at tying knots I never really saw the need for them. Just another thing to get snagged with.

Wel said @bhoff. I do not use snaps and prefer tying my knots directly to my lures. 

On 5/30/2018 at 12:23 PM, Pro Logcatcher said:

I do not. I know there are other people on the forums that do, but I can tie a knot pretty speedy. Also, you might have to retie more than you think as your line gets abraded from rocks/trees/etc.

I agree that you need to retie often since line gets damaged from all the rocks and other structure that we tend to bass fish in.

On 5/30/2018 at 12:54 PM, snake95 said:

The prevailing response you'll get is to learn to tie knots well.  I want to emphasize what a good idea that is.

With YouTube there are zillions of references on tying knots, and there are lots of great resources out there.

Its just an essential skill for any angler and while lots of guys have their favorites, if you learn to tie several types, you will learn about what it is that makes a good knot good, and why different knots work better for different line types and diameters.

Really suggest you make it a priority to get good with knots.

 You still need to re-tie periodically to get rid of abraded line and replace the knot throughout the day.

I agree with you that knowing how to tie knots well and quickly is better than using snaps for bass fishing. Checking your line often for abrasion, cutting off damaged line, and tying a good knot is something every fisherman needs to know how to do well.

[NHBull]

Snaps for CB, or Jerks , At least until I figure out what to use.

.......or if I want a nose down look.

 

.....Also, sometimes a swivel on a fluke It I want it to run a tad deeper, but seldom

[Ariffy]

I use wire leaders since my lake is filled to the brim with pike, thinking of switching to fluorocarbon 

[soflabasser]

2 hours ago, Ariffy said:

I use wire leaders since my lake is filled to the brim with pike, thinking of switching to fluorocarbon 

You can buy flexible wire leader that you can tie with a uni to uni knot to the mainline and tie the other end of the leader to a lure.

[bitsandbass]

I use braid >> swivel >> mono leader >> snap >> lure.

 

I use the snap to switch between the rapala original floating minnow, beetlespins and a 1/0 bass hook + wacky senko / o-ring.  This is what I use 99% of the time.  Does the job. 

 

But what about moving the snap to the braid, and then pre-trying mono leaders to lures with a swivel on the end?

 

So braid >>> snap >>> swivel >>> mono leader >>> lure?

 

Do you think this would be better for presentation / lure action?