Super User Further North Posted November 5, 2018 Super User Posted November 5, 2018 12 hours ago, A-Jay said: I'm fishing solo 95 % of the time and the 1875 is perfect for the one man launch & recover evolution. That's how I landed on a similarly sized boat too. That, and launching a bigger boat would be really hard to do on some of our lakes. 1 Quote
SmallBlockMuscle Posted November 5, 2018 Posted November 5, 2018 On 11/3/2018 at 6:35 AM, A-Jay said: @slonezp pretty much covered it. Before this new line of V8 Four strokes, there was a fairly large difference is weight. The 2 strokes were more than 100lbs lighter. This is not the case with the current models as the new four stokes have been stripped down and weight virtually the same. The big 2 stroke Optimax is no longer being produced and has been replaced by the V6 & V8 Four stroke. I like my ProXS quite a bit. While still early on I have Zero regrets on making the switch. As for selecting a 16 or a 19 - I'd get the newest model available. The 16 (which is what I have) is a sweet rig but the newest model will have whatever minor improvements needed. I'm sure Lund learns a & improves the models annually; especially since the Pro-V Bass is only a few years in production. Good Luck with your choice & eventual purchase. I'm betting you'll be happy with your new Pro-V Bass regardless of which way you lean. A-Jay Just saw this picture posted on the Lund facebook page. 1 Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted November 5, 2018 Author Super User Posted November 5, 2018 1 hour ago, SmallBlockMuscle said: Just saw this picture posted on the Lund facebook page. Yea - I'm good like that ~ A-Jay Quote
Vilas15 Posted November 6, 2018 Posted November 6, 2018 4 hours ago, A-Jay said: Yea - I'm good like that ~ A-Jay https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp0ervinbvA/ ? Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted November 6, 2018 Author Super User Posted November 6, 2018 4 minutes ago, Vilas15 said: https://www.instagram.com/p/Bp0ervinbvA/ ? Quote
Jeff Browning Posted November 15, 2018 Posted November 15, 2018 Fry, How do you like the Verado? Any problems? Jeff Quote
Super User Further North Posted November 29, 2018 Super User Posted November 29, 2018 A friend just ordered the 225 XS for his 22 ft. Skeeter. Quote
Jeff Browning Posted December 6, 2018 Posted December 6, 2018 AJ - noticed you don’t have a jack plate. If you were building the boat again would you get one? Seems like a good place to mount the Talons vs the brackets. How do you like them? With spot lock would you buy shallow water anchors again? Jeff 1 Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted December 6, 2018 Author Super User Posted December 6, 2018 On 6/18/2018 at 7:20 PM, A-Jay said: Hi Bob ~ That 505 lbs is what the 200 Opti that's on there now weighs in at - so no difference there. The Talons are really quite 'light' - the extendable poles are fiberglass, the case is basally plastic and the mounts & internal framing is aluminum - Don't know what the exact weight of each is but I'd put it close to perhaps 55 lbs or so. The Pro-V's composite transom and 96 inch beam seems to be able to support what's there well. And in an interesting turn of events - there is some serious consideration being made to ADDING a hydraulic jack plate to the mix. With the new motor going on, seems like a perfect time. The SeaStar Xtreme Jackplate Hydraulic Jackplate 6” ~ Seems to be where we're headed. http://www.seastarsolutions.com/wp-content/uploads/2018/05/SeaStar-XtremeJackplates-DataSheet.pdf Since I'm currently running SeaStar Steering, this one is designed to maximize engine tilt when used with SeaStar steering cylinders. More to follow . . . . A-Jay On 12/6/2018 at 2:32 PM, Jeff Browning said: AJ - noticed you don’t have a jack plate. If you were building the boat again would you get one? Seems like a good place to mount the Talons vs the brackets. How do you like them? With spot lock would you buy shallow water anchors again? Jeff @Jeff Browning ~ I was initially considering adding a hydraulic jack plate. Rethought it and went with a 6" manual model. http://www.seastarsolutions.com/products/seastar-jackplates/#jackplatemanuals I do not ever travel on plane in skinny enough water to justify the adjustable model - especially considering the extra gear required. Did want to move the motor back a little though so this fits the bill. So far it's been a nice addition. As for the Talons - I love them. Additionally when I planned, purchased & initially rigged this ride, ( Early 2016) the Ultrex had not yet appeared on the scene. Had it been available, I'd have purchased one. I'd still use the talons for water 10 feet & shallower but the spot lock would be a nice addition for the deeper stuff. Just not ready to rip off a two year old 112 Fortrex and re-rig the 360 quite yet, not to mention the 3K plus it would cost to make that little upgrade. A-Jay Here's a two year review I did of the rig this summer. Quote
Super User slonezp Posted December 7, 2018 Super User Posted December 7, 2018 4 hours ago, Jeff Browning said: AJ - noticed you don’t have a jack plate. If you were building the boat again would you get one? Seems like a good place to mount the Talons vs the brackets. How do you like them? With spot lock would you buy shallow water anchors again? Jeff I have both a Terrova with spot lock and a Talon. One does not replace the other 2 Quote
Jeff Browning Posted December 7, 2018 Posted December 7, 2018 Do you spin on 1 Talon? I live near the Ohio Rive and spend a decent amount of time there. I see a lot of boats sold with one anchor - I’ve been curious how they work in the wind/current. AJ - what did you gain by moving the motor back 6”? Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted December 7, 2018 Author Super User Posted December 7, 2018 10 minutes ago, Jeff Browning said: Do you spin on 1 Talon? I live near the Ohio Rive and spend a decent amount of time there. I see a lot of boats sold with one anchor - I’ve been curious how they work in the wind/current. AJ - what did you gain by moving the motor back 6”? One Talon is just a pivot point - where two offers a bit more stability. Same thing applies with a standard anchor. One is good - two is better. Jack plate provides some space between the lower unit and the SI transducer as well as offering a bit of performance improvement. Hull comes up on plane faster and will stay on plane at a lower speed. A-Jay 1 Quote
Super User slonezp Posted December 7, 2018 Super User Posted December 7, 2018 23 minutes ago, Jeff Browning said: Do you spin on 1 Talon? I live near the Ohio Rive and spend a decent amount of time there. I see a lot of boats sold with one anchor - I’ve been curious how they work in the wind/current. AJ - what did you gain by moving the motor back 6”? With 1 Talon your stern needs to be facing upriver. You can use the trolling motor to pivot on the anchor and fish perpendicular to the current. A single Talon will hold in what I call "fishable" current. It won't hold in heavy current on a hard bottom. It will on a soft bottom. I don't know if 2 would be any better in heavy current. As far as wind and 1 Talon, it's going to be similar to current using the TM and Talon in conjunction with each other. The only scenario I can think of that would require 2 Talons is bed fishing in current and wind. Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted December 7, 2018 Author Super User Posted December 7, 2018 5 minutes ago, slonezp said: With 1 Talon your stern needs to be facing upriver. You can use the trolling motor to pivot on the anchor and fish perpendicular to the current. A single Talon will hold in what I call "fishable" current. It won't hold in heavy current on a hard bottom. It will on a soft bottom. I don't know if 2 would be any better in heavy current. As far as wind and 1 Talon, it's going to be similar to current using the TM and Talon in conjunction with each other. The only scenario I can think of that would require 2 Talons is bed fishing in current and wind. Yup ~ And I'd be very careful placing the stern of any vessel into even a moderate 'current' - I'd never recommend that in a river. Ever - Big No-No. With a Talon and especially with a regular anchor rig. Other than forgetting the boat plug - it's fastest way to fill your rig with water & even capsize it. A-Jay Quote
Super User Further North Posted December 8, 2018 Super User Posted December 8, 2018 (edited) On 12/6/2018 at 7:25 PM, slonezp said: I have both a Terrova with spot lock and a Talon. One does not replace the other Interesting...can you expand on that? ...never mind...saw what I wanted further down... Edited December 8, 2018 by Further North Moron sum et non legere totum hunc locum priusquam missae. Quote
Super User slonezp Posted December 8, 2018 Super User Posted December 8, 2018 9 hours ago, Further North said: Interesting...can you expand on that? ...never mind...saw what I wanted further down... I use spot lock usually for a vertical presentation in deep water with no current and no wind. If there's light current or light wind, I will use cruise control. I can set the cruise control speed to .1mph and set the direction. As long as there are not irregular wind gusts, this works better than spot lock because the motor doesn't need to keep correcting itself. (Note: I have the old version of the GPS head on the Terrova. The latest version is supposed to be 10x better than the gen 1 and the spot lock far superior) If the current is medium or higher, I can set the cruise control to equal the speed of the drift. This will ensure a vertical presentation. Once the drift is complete, I'll head up current and do it again. and a Talon is a shallow water anchor.... 2 Quote
Super User J Francho Posted December 10, 2018 Super User Posted December 10, 2018 On 12/8/2018 at 9:47 AM, slonezp said: Once the drift is complete, I'll head up current and do it again. Sounds a lot like back-trolling, but more efficient. Quote
Global Moderator 12poundbass Posted December 10, 2018 Global Moderator Posted December 10, 2018 49 minutes ago, J Francho said: Sounds a lot like back-trolling, but more efficient. What he explained is what they do on the Detroit river when the walleye are in there. They'll be lined up like an assembly line. A recipe for disaster and hot heads if you ask me, but there's big numbers in there, and giants too if you're after them. Quote
Super User J Francho Posted December 10, 2018 Super User Posted December 10, 2018 I've seen walleye runs in spring. It's amazing. They're off limits here, though. Quote
Jeff Browning Posted January 1, 2019 Posted January 1, 2019 Okay - this is a newbie question but here goes... I’m building my Lund Pro V Bass...options and such...what exactly is a jack plate for? I get that you moved your motor back to allow clearance for the SI transducer, but other then your example; I see them (hydraulic and manual) installed on boats all the time. I’ve yet to meet anyone who’s actually used the hydraulic one except for messing around with it. The manual ones make no sense to me except for making the motor as A-jay did. It doesn’t seem realistic to think a buy would jump I the back, raise his motor, and then lower it again just for clearance. How much time would that take anyway. I guess I’m trying to make the best decision I can with the limited experience and info I have. Please guide me... 1 Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted January 2, 2019 Author Super User Posted January 2, 2019 17 minutes ago, Jeff Browning said: Okay - this is a newbie question but here goes... I’m building my Lund Pro V Bass...options and such...what exactly is a jack plate for? I get that you moved your motor back to allow clearance for the SI transducer, but other then your example; I see them (hydraulic and manual) installed on boats all the time. I’ve yet to meet anyone who’s actually used the hydraulic one except for messing around with it. The manual ones make no sense to me except for making the motor as A-jay did. It doesn’t seem realistic to think a buy would jump I the back, raise his motor, and then lower it again just for clearance. How much time would that take anyway. I guess I’m trying to make the best decision I can with the limited experience and info I have. Please guide me... @Jeff Browning ~ I'll add this - While running the original 200 hp Optimax with no jack plate - THE BOAT RAN AWESOME ! Popped up on plane in what seemed like 2 seconds, was Extremely stable on plane AND AT WOT and was in every respect EVERYTHING I wanted & needed it to be and more. And now with the re-power and the manual jack plate - everything is exactly THE SAME. I just got the space. My needs have been successfully addressed. So IMO, unless you can consciously articulate exactly WHY you Need a Jack Plate on the Pro-V bass - You Don't. However - if you can - I'd go for the newer V8 Pro XS -IMO there is a difference there. It's quieter, sips Less Gas and may come with a better warranty. Good Luck A-Jay 1 Quote
Jeff Browning Posted January 2, 2019 Posted January 2, 2019 Definitely getting the Pro XS, never considered anything else after I decided to go with the brand new, configured to my wants/needs boat. Local club guys here say not to get talons or poles that the water we fish “isn’t deep enough, often enough to justify them”...I only had a 175 TXW before now, but I remember several instances when my TM was kicking up mud, and when the skeg on my motor drug bottom and I had to trim it up and use the push pole. Other instances where it was so windy that only the co—angler fished “the spot” because it was all I could do to keep my boat off the rip rap. Anchors would have been awesome that day and in the Ohio in all that current...never considered NOT getting them. Always thought the jack plate was a good place to mount them though. Didn’t like the idea of more holes in the transom; but that was the only reason I could come up with for needing a jackal plate. I never thought of space for the SI, which the motor did interfere with. Then again, I am new to bass fishing. Being from AK I’m used to wading rivers and creeks or drifting... 1 Quote
Super User A-Jay Posted January 2, 2019 Author Super User Posted January 2, 2019 2 minutes ago, Jeff Browning said: Definitely getting the Pro XS, never considered anything else after I decided to go with the brand new, configured to my wants/needs boat. Local club guys here say not to get talons or poles that the water we fish “isn’t deep enough, often enough to justify them”...I only had a 175 TXW before now, but I remember several instances when my TM was kicking up mud, and when the skeg on my motor drug bottom and I had to trim it up and use the push pole. Other instances where it was so windy that only the co—angler fished “the spot” because it was all I could do to keep my boat off the rip rap. Anchors would have been awesome that day and in the Ohio in all that current...never considered NOT getting them. Always thought the jack plate was a good place to mount them though. Didn’t like the idea of more holes in the transom; but that was the only reason I could come up with for needing a jackal plate. I never thought of space for the SI, which the motor did interfere with. Then again, I am new to bass fishing. Being from AK I’m used to wading rivers and creeks or drifting... Sounds Good Jeff, I am not new to boat handling or bass fishing. I have twin 12 ft Talons. They are mounted securely(back plated) directly to the transom - no problems. I fish a variety of habitats; from super deep to fairly shallow and pretty much everything in between. I use my Talons ALL THE TIME. They are as important to me as my Fortrex. Besides actually fishing, they are very helpful launch & recovering the Pro-V solo - for me that's all the time. I would Not EVER own a bass boat without them. Once you fish with them, you'll wonder how you ever did it without them. I say - get them. And now's the time to do it. You'll be very glad you did. (And you'll be taking that local club guys $$$ regularly too) OK so there ya go ~ I said my piece - YMMV Good Luck A-Jay 1 1 Quote
Super User slonezp Posted January 2, 2019 Super User Posted January 2, 2019 12 hours ago, Jeff Browning said: Okay - this is a newbie question but here goes... I’m building my Lund Pro V Bass...options and such...what exactly is a jack plate for? I get that you moved your motor back to allow clearance for the SI transducer, but other then your example; I see them (hydraulic and manual) installed on boats all the time. I’ve yet to meet anyone who’s actually used the hydraulic one except for messing around with it. The manual ones make no sense to me except for making the motor as A-jay did. It doesn’t seem realistic to think a buy would jump I the back, raise his motor, and then lower it again just for clearance. How much time would that take anyway. I guess I’m trying to make the best decision I can with the limited experience and info I have. Please guide me... Guys get hydraulic jack plates who run extremely shallow water. When you get on the throttle to take off, the stern of the boat wants to dig down while the bow rides up. I have a Lund as well and if I'm in less than 2-1/2'-3' of water, I need to run slow until I get into deeper water prior to jumping on plane. A hydraulic jack plate allows you to raise the motor straight up rather than tilt it out and the ability to get on plane in shallower water. 1 Quote
Super User J Francho Posted January 2, 2019 Super User Posted January 2, 2019 My Bullet has a 15" setback manual jackplate. It took some dialing in, but it is set about 1" above pad, and along with the Barry's plate aluminum hydrofoil, I have great holeshots, and plane around 16-17 mph. I do not need to adjust it, since it's performing as I want now. The hull on my boat pretty much predicates a jackplate. The amount of set back and prop height are variables in performance. I'm getting added lift, and top end speed by using one. Again, these are a per boat set up - every boat is different. I'm just explaining why someone would use a manaul jack plate. A-Jay and slonezp gave you some good advice about Lunds. Lund will likely be my next boat as well. 1 Quote
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