NRX Rods - Albright knot: braid to FC (5 wrap/4 wrap)

[Falkus]

Was doing some experiment with my NRX 873 CCR today with braid line. 

 

I have found that the albright knot is not great with those recoil guides. I was using 8 wraps/5 wrap but it kept getting caught.  Decided to try this way: 5 wrap/4 wrap in and it looks solid. The knot is not getting caught anymore. 

 

Now, Im thinking of going 4 wrap and 3 wrap ? would it be safe ? 

 

 

[MickD]

Probably not, but only you can determine that.  I wouldn't trust 5/4, but I've never been able to get that knot to hold up when aggressively snapping lures off the bottom.  Sooner or later, it unravels.  The FG will not cause trouble going through the guides.  If you stick to this method of tying it, it will be reliable.  

 

[fishwizzard]

You can find knot-assist tools for the FG on a lot of the Japanese tackle sites, but often they are crazy expensive.  

[Falkus]

Was just looking at that for FG and boy - arent they expensive ? 

[MassYak85]

Have I been doing it wrong or something? I always thought you went back over with the same number of wraps you start with? I usually do 7 both ways. 

[Brad in Texas]

I'll try to do a knot video some day very soon to share here. There are a few tricks that really, really improve knot success, both terminal and junction types.

 

One reason it is hard for someone else to comment on the success of another's knot, like recommendations regarding how many wraps, is not knowing how accurately and precisely it is tied.

 

With an Alberto/Albright type junction knot, I am usually joining 10 lbs. Sufix 832 braid to Seaguar Invizx in 8 lbs. I use 9 wraps away, then just 3 back and out. I used to use more backing out, find absolutely no difference in outcomes.

 

The FG gets its strength from the fact that it is plaited, not so much relying on wraps where friction is the key. As tension pulls on an FG knot, the sort of serpentine "in and out" of the line through these plaits bunches up. Here, a good analogy is like trying to take off a wedding ring that is too tight, the skin bunches up on the back side of the ring and won't let the finger slide out. The line in an FG does that . . . repeatedly. A great knot, the FG, as it is actually both thinner and stronger at the same time.

 

Say, a tip for those of you using a uni junction knot. If you have a dominant right or left tying motion, you know, tie better one direction than the other, what you can do is make your first of the two knots in your "best direction," then instead of tying it from your weak side, you can just turn the whole knot assembly around and tie it, again, from your strong/dominant side. With a uni junction knot, you have two knots and that means two places to fail so getting both sides done as best as possible is important. Use your dominant orientation helps here. 

 

Brad

 

[MickD]

Take a well-tied FG apart and you'll find that the leader has been permanently deformed so that the braid and leader are interlocked mechanically.  This happens during the very aggressive tensioning of the  knot that is highlighted in the titles of the video above.

[Falkus]

Thanks guys - I might have to take a day and buy some cheap braid line to learn how to do the FG Knot. 

 

It might take me all day but i should get the hang if I can

 

but 5/4 wraps hasnt give me problems yet so I am not sure if its a safe bet. 

[fishwizzard]

22 hours ago, Burke said:

Thanks guys - I might have to take a day and buy some cheap braid line to learn how to do the FG Knot. 

 

It might take me all day but i should get the hang if I can

 

but 5/4 wraps hasnt give me problems yet so I am not sure if its a safe bet. 

It's not a super rigorous test, but a cheap luggage scale will let you get an idea at what level of "force" your lines are breaking at.