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Posted

I apologize if this has been covered before but I searched and didn’t find anything after a few pages. 

 

Does anyone know of resources or know tips to figure out what an older rod’s,or one that isn’t specifically labeled, action is? My move to get into fishing has turned my dad into a bit of an impulse buyer. I can take over some of his older equipment but I can think figure out how I would apply it. Any help is appreciated!

  • Super User
Posted

Application or presentation specific bass fishing rods are relatively new. I believe Gary Dobyns may be a pioneer in marketing presentation specific bass rods.

During the last 20 years rods were rated primarily by handle type, length, power and action;

6' to 6'6" was the popular length.

Pistol grips were being replaced with longer trigger* grip handles. 

Medium heavy 4 power* , Heavy or 5* power started to replace "bass rod".

Fast action started to replace "bass rod".

Spinning rods were non existent for bass fishing, they were "trout rods".

* Fenwick pioneered both straight handle baitcasting Trigger Stick rods and rated rods by numbered with HMG graphite rods.  

Gary Loomis and Lamiglas started labeling MH and H fast action rods as JWR; jig and worm rods.

Split grips and Micro guides are more recent within the 6 years or so.

Your older basic "bass rod" today would be 664C= 6'6" MHF for spinnerbaits, buzzbait, jig, T-rigs. 

Tom

  • Like 2
Posted

Thanks! It may be the OCD in me, but I really like to make sure I’m putting myself in the best position to catch fish. I started acquiring my own stuff, then realized I wasn’t entirely sure what I was really buying. I’ve been piecing things together for a while but like to see what combos will really work best for what I’m targeting. Dayton Ohio can have an exceptionally enduring winter so I’m just rocking through my stuff seeing if I need to make changes. 

 

As a quick aside idea I have enjoyed reading your posts and using your wealth of information!

  • Like 1
Posted
1 hour ago, WRB said:

Application or presentation specific bass fishing rods are relatively new. I believe Gary Dobyns may be a pioneer in marketing presentation specific bass rods.

During the last 20 years rods were rated primarily by handle type, length, power and action;

6' to 6'6" was the popular length.

Pistol grips were being replaced with longer trigger* grip handles. 

Medium heavy 4 power* , Heavy or 5* power started to replace "bass rod".

Fast action started to replace "bass rod".

Spinning rods were non existent for bass fishing, they were "trout rods".

* Fenwick pioneered both straight handle baitcasting Trigger Stick rods and rated rods by numbered with HMG graphite rods.  

Gary Loomis and Lamiglas started labeling MH and H fast action rods as JWR; jig and worm rods.

Split grips and Micro guides are more recent within the 6 years or so.

Your basic "bass rod" today would be MH fast, 7'

Tom

Thanks for that detailed response. I have only been fishing for about 5 years now, but this makes me wonder if bass fishing has advanced or if we have fallen victim to marketing. Probably a mix of both. 

 

I know I am probably not alone in fixating on rod length, action, power, lure rating, etc. And whether or not my equipment is sufficient or if I need a shiny new combo. 

 

Post like this help bring me down to earth so to speak and realize that people caught many fish before me on less advanced equipment. I know that knowledge is the key to being a good angler and that decent quality equipment can help but does not replace experience, knowledge, and skill. Just helps to be reminded from time to time :)

Posted

run some line through the guides and tie it off to table or have someone hold the line. put pressure on the rod until you hit the backbone and that should give you a pretty good idea of the action.

 

this is also useful with rods with the actions already labeled. one company's fast may be another's extra fast etc. power is also not universal.

  • Like 1
Posted

Go to the pond and cast different lures and see how it feels.  Stiffer means more sensitive, to a point, used for bottom  contact single hooks.  You want it to be more limber when using treble hooks.  From there you can refine.  As stated above, manufacturer labels are a loose guide.

Posted

WRB gave some really good info.  I'll ad a few more tid bits.

 

The 'standard' powers and actions that we use in bass rods have been around for quite some time.  For example, a few years ago I was given a Lamiglas 7062 (I think that is the correct model) blank by a rod building friend that was new old stock from his father's supplies in the late '60s.  This blank is a yellow fiberglass blank that is right on par with the best glass cranking blanks available today.

 

The standard worm/jig 1/4-3/4oz. fast action blank has been available from the likes of Loomis, St. Croix and others for as long as I can remember (I'm 35), essentially since the early days of graphite rods.

 

Rich Forhan has heavily influenced what a bass rod has become.  Even though split grips have not been new to the fishing world, Forhan was one of the first to adopt the design.  He was known for cutting and modifying reel seats introducing the concept of the split reel seat.  He was well known for building rods for some of the elite tourney pros.  If they couldn't find what they needed, they went to Rich.  Many of the 'standard' powers and actions that are used today are based off of blanks he chose to meet the needs of those guys.  We all owe a debt of gratitude to Rich Forhan.

 

If you look at the seasonal bait selection article image from the homepage, there are 3 rods (definitely the baby poop green Seeker blank) on that casting deck that I would be willing to bet came from either the late Bill Stevens or Lance Dupre at Swampland, or possibly another builder.  I think Forhan stopped before that type of burl became available.  I believe Forhan's notes are now safely housed and well kept by a pretty well known builder in the Carolinas.

 

Micro guides were introduced to the bass rod community by Steve Gardener from NC in 2008.  The original micro guides came from Batson Enterprises and were originally designed for use in either the Asian or European market.  When Bill Batson showed them to Steve, a new idea was born, forever changing bass rods.  Over the next few years, manufacturers went to work designing their own as well as small braced tip tops.  The original tip tops are unbraced and adorn the top of a couple of my favorite rods.  Those unbraced tip tops require an occasional adjustment to keep them in shape.

 

The extra fast action of the drop shot rod was likely developed to satisfy an angler who wanted a ML power tip on a M power rod.  The way this is done is to take a ML fast action blank and extend it from the butt end moving the flex point further from the reel seat and giving more power in the butt because there is more material down there.  They have been around for a long time, however, primarily as spinning rods.  I started building because I wanted this power and action in a casting rod.

 

The modern flipping stick comes from Dee Thomas, and I believe Rich Forhan working with him to select the proper blank.

 

About the only 'new' to bass rods over the last 15 years or so are dedicated swimsuit rods and A-rig rods, however the powers and actions for these rods already existed in the inshore saltwater market and just needed to be selected.

 

What you are seeing now in the way rods are marketed is a combination of marketing, and a better educated clientele.  The magic of the internet has allowed rod builders to start educating the average angler on rod characteristics and blank selection.  As the average fisherman became aware of what was available, manufacturers have been quick to adapt and start putting out product that meets the demand of the customer.  It is amazing how many technique specific rods adorn the shelves of even department stores these days.  You used to have to spend a decent sum of money to get into a technique specific rod.  That is not the case these days.

Posted

Thanks for the great info all!  The table trick will really help. I’ve seen the picture of action description but I suppose I never really thought about putting the picture into practice. 

 

Like Ken I said I’ve gotten some of my own equipment, just looking to see what holes I can fill with the old mans. Some of his retired rods are quantum quartz transmitters and few old pistol grip skylines. I’ve caught fish on all of them, just wanted to make sure I wasn’t hindering myself throwing a worm on a moderate or a crank on an extra fast. With the limited time I have to fish I want to give myself in the best chance to catch as possible!

Posted

its ok to fish a worm on a moderate if it is powerful enough to get the thickness of the hook you are using into the fish. a med power crankbait rod would not be a good choice but a moderate heavy flipping rod would. lot of variables with all things fishing.

 

once you have a fish on, IMO the ideal action would always be moderate as it would keep a more constant pressure on and help prevent slack when you cannot keep up with the fish by cranking your reel or by moving the rod. a faster rod might help yank him out cover faster before he digs in however.

Posted

when I got started heavy into fishing (the late 90s) THE rod to get was the MBR783c IMX from G. Loomis. The thought back then was the extra durability of the IMX over the GLX was worth the slight decrease in sensitivity (and also saving money too). 

 

now there are many other players in the higher end rod market. but when I got started everyone raved about the IMX.

Posted
9 hours ago, Hulkster said:

when I got started heavy into fishing (the late 90s) THE rod to get was the MBR783c IMX from G. Loomis. The thought back then was the extra durability of the IMX over the GLX was worth the slight decrease in sensitivity (and also saving money too). 

 

now there are many other players in the higher end rod market. but when I got started everyone raved about the IMX.

I have one of them with the original Wiebe reel seat!  A beautiful rod.  Classic G. Loomis and for a while it was paired with a Shimano Chronarch SF.

Posted
On 4/20/2018 at 9:53 PM, Big-Bass said:

I have one of them with the original Wiebe reel seat!  A beautiful rod.  Classic G. Loomis and for a while it was paired with a Shimano Chronarch SF.

I had one too  with a chronarch 100A. loved it but always wished it was longer. back then 6 to 6'6 was what everyone wanted.

 

Nowadays, I use the MBR903c E6X which is the MBR MH taper but 7 foot 6 inches long . I love it.

  • Super User
Posted
On April 20, 2018 at 7:12 AM, bigfruits said:

run some line through the guides and tie it off to table or have someone hold the line. put pressure on the rod until you hit the backbone and that should give you a pretty good idea of the action.

 

this is also useful with rods with the actions already labeled. one company's fast may be another's extra fast etc. power is also not universal.

What he said. How a rod feels in your hand and loads up is much more important than what a company labels it.  

Posted

Rod spec have always been subjective and remain that way today. A rod builder or experienced tackle junky could probably look at the rod and give you their opinion on how it compares to modern offerings but at the end of the day the proof is how it performs on the water for YOU. 

Posted

All super helpful info. Can’t thank everyone enough! I’ve got that gear monkey cooking right now, we’ll for the last 2 years. It’s not that I’m lazy, but I like to make everything specific and tie as little as possible. My goal year in and year out is to fish new ways. This year it’s swimbaits and jigs. I’ve got a trip coming up and have been organizing, and reorganizing since January. I know my wife is ready for me to leave and come home so the madness is over for at least half a year. 

 

Posted

WRB,I think you may have forgotten about Phenix Rods. They were one of the 1st rod companies to offer technique specific rods. The Doodlin' Rod,Gitzit,Jig n Pig,Crankbait Rod, and a few others.These rods were offered back in the 80's.They also made spinning rods for bass that were far from being "trout rods". They also had Power rated rods such as the L2,M2,H2 etc.Just my 2cents

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