Super User .dsaavedra. Posted September 28, 2007 Super User Posted September 28, 2007 ok i have an insanely leaky old 12ft riveted v-hull jon boat. it leaks thru the middle seam thing and the rivets around it. what should i do? ive tried jb weld and since the boat flexes, the jb weld just pops off....kida actualy made it worse. what should i do? should i sand blast it to prepare the surface and have someone weld all ther rivets/seams? is there any kind of bottom paint that will seal the hull? pweeze help Quote
kybassangler Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 They make rods for welding aluminum that you heat with a propane torch that might be an option. I have heard that it makes great welds and strong. Quote
TruflShufl Posted September 28, 2007 Posted September 28, 2007 We tried using the alum welding rod to fix my buddy's jon boat and it didn't work all that well. We tried scuffing up the alum and laying it on and it still didnt wanna stick, just kept fallin off Your only option will probably be to get it welded up like you said. Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted September 29, 2007 Author Super User Posted September 29, 2007 yeah i'll probably have to take it somewhere. how much do you think that would cost? maybe i could get some amish ppl to do it. off topic: just curious, do you all know what amish people are? im asking cuz they are all over the place here, but i havent heard of them anywhere else, so im wondering if its just a local thing. Quote
CGH Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 For the Alum Rods to work you must clean the surface with a stainless steel brush that has not been used on anything else. I used this stuff with a hand-held propane torch to repair a 10 1/2 tear in my Durcraft Jon. BAC Industries Propane Torch Kit for Welding Aluminum, Galvanized Metal and MORE, Model# AP201 Item# 11070 Only $14.99 Here is a link to Northertools.com wher I got it at! http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_31687_31687 Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted September 29, 2007 Author Super User Posted September 29, 2007 hey thanks i might look into that! Quote
Super User Gatorbassman Posted September 29, 2007 Super User Posted September 29, 2007 http://www.cabelas.com/cabelas/en/templates/product/standard-item.jsp?id=0001390010655a&navCount=1&podId=0001390&parentId=cat21324&masterpathid=&navAction=jump&cmCat=MainCatcat21276-cat21324&catalogCode=IH&rid=&parentType=index&indexId=cat21324&hasJS=true This is what I always use. It's very easy and it doesn't require as much heat as those aluminum sticks. Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted September 29, 2007 Author Super User Posted September 29, 2007 that stuff doesnt crack as the boat flexes? Quote
MemphisFisherman Posted September 29, 2007 Posted September 29, 2007 Depending on how much it leak's, a bucket and not going too far from the bank may be your best bet. And yes I have seen my fair share of Amish people. Quote
Super User Gatorbassman Posted September 29, 2007 Super User Posted September 29, 2007 that stuff doesnt crack as the boat flexes? Not yet. lol Quote
FishingBuds Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 Did the Rods, it works but, I had to watch the for warping. The sides did it real bad. > I would recommend "Paint on Bed Liner" LBH has it on his boat and I plan on doing it to my 14 jon This stuff is tuff and can seal, now you'll hear about wieght issues and drag issues with it but, I think for a jon its perfect. You fish in a Jon not ski with it ;D Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted September 30, 2007 Author Super User Posted September 30, 2007 yea today my friend looked at my boat and said "thats a hell of a lot of welding to do. it'd be cheaper to buy a new boat than to weld that thing!" then he reccomended i go out and buy a can of herculiner for 30 bucks and paint that on there nice n' thick. its indestructible and will seal it. so i think thats what i'll do. anyone know if i should sand blast the hull before i paint that on? Quote
TopDog Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 you dont have to sandblast it unless the paint is flaky. Just make sure its not wet or chemicals on it. Quote
bassboy1 Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 Naw, yall all have it wrong. Check out Gluv-it. Though I have never used it, as the last 7 aluminums we have had don't leak, but it is well praised in the aluminum boats restoration world. Quote
Bassboy15 Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 tons of amish people by me, we have an amish community with a resteraunt...GREAT food Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 I used the bed liner and wouldn't do it again. It is ok as a layer on the inside for insurance but is in no way a marine sealant. I used it on the outside as an abrasion protection coat as we slide the jon over alot of rock to launch. To seal a jon with many leaks, provided they are rivet leaks and not leaks where the alum was worn too thin and cracked, there is 1 real easy, cheap, full proof method. -Buy a box of tapered head bolts, lock washers and nuts (stainless) 1/2 inch is fine, you don't want long ones. -put boat on saw horses and have a yellow or white crayon ready. -Place hose in boat -look underneath and circle all leaking rivets -drill out all bad rivets -replace from the bottom with bolt. Before tightening nut on inside, put dab of 3m 5200 (marine adhesive/sealant) on the threads of the bolt. (do not get this stuff on clothes. keep as neat as possible using tiny,clean dabs on each bolt) -You may want to deck the floors now because of the bolts sticking up a bit. Simple plywood cut to the shape of the floor openings will do. Covering with an inexpensive indoor/outdoor carpeting makes it even nicer. This also adds a ton of sound dampening to the boat, a must for all jons IMO Good luck, PM if you have any questions - Quote
Super User .dsaavedra. Posted September 30, 2007 Author Super User Posted September 30, 2007 thanks. we've filled the boat up before and for some reason, it doesnt leak from the inside... :-/ Quote
CGH Posted September 30, 2007 Posted September 30, 2007 thanks. we've filled the boat up before and for some reason, it doesnt leak from the inside... :-/ That what I call moving water Holes ;D Here is a nother way to find the leaks. Get a crayon as LBH says and get boat on the water an circle the leaks. It may be that the weight in the boat combined with the water that the hull displaces cause it seperate and that is when it leaks. Quote
Low_Budget_Hooker Posted October 1, 2007 Posted October 1, 2007 You need a few people, this theory may also work if you put weight on the seats while on the saw horses, the boat will flex, but not as much as in the water. It very well could be 3 or 4 that leak bad when flexxed and still findable. If you still don't find them, Next step is to completely dry the floor. Cover it in dishsoap. a bottle should do. Launch and look for bubbles. circle quick and get boat back out of water. It's illegal to enter many detergents into public water, rinse boat back at home. Quote
RobDar Posted October 5, 2007 Posted October 5, 2007 They make rods for welding aluminum that you heat with a propane torch that might be an option. I have heard that it makes great welds and strong. you can mess around with all that if you want...but I think I would strip, prime, and paint the inside with truck bed liner. Quote
CGH Posted October 6, 2007 Posted October 6, 2007 They make rods for welding aluminum that you heat with a propane torch that might be an option. I have heard that it makes great welds and strong. you can mess around with all that if you want...but I think I would strip, prime, and paint the inside with truck bed liner. I'm not all that familer with the toughness of those bed liners but it seams as thoug the pressure of the water (as the boat moves alone) would eventuly push up the liner. I mean could you really get a really good coat on the insde floor of a jon boat that has ribs, seams, and bench seats rest which are tied to the floor of the boat. Sealing from the bottom might be better but still how long would it last. Quote
fishbear Posted October 6, 2007 Posted October 6, 2007 Have you tried Marine Grade Silicone? I had to repair my transom on my aluminum jon. I had to drill out the rivets on the bottom of the boat and replace them with aluminum bolts when it was time to reassemble. I sealed them with a good coat of Marine Grade Silicone from Walmart for 5.00. It has never leaked since and I have spent a lot of time on the water this year. Heck of a lot cheaper and easier than welding. Quote
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