Fiberglass Hull Repair ??

[surfer]

Hull Patch ?

I recently found a hole in my fiberglass hull.  The boat is a 78 McKee Craft.  The hole was caused by the trailer tire rubbing the hull.  The rub spot is 3 inches wide and 8 inches long.  The actual hole is a 6 inch crack with fibers hanging out.  

I have done lots of fiberglass patch work on surfboards and am comfortable with the fiberglass portion of this repair.  My question is how long to let it dry out before doing the repair?  It has been out of the water for 6 days now and is still dripping.  Are there any indicators as to when it is dry inside or ready to be patched?  Is there any way to speed up the drying process?

If anyone is familiar with McKee Craft structure and has an opinion or advice please voice it.  All other opinions are appreciated too.

Thanks in advance.

Tanner

[Catt]

The rub spot is 3 inches wide and 8 inches long. The actual hole is a 6 inch crack with fibers hanging out.

This would require a little more than a fiberglass patch, take to a professional, this aint a surfboard we're talking about.

[cart7t]

I agree with catt, if this hole is below the water line and you've got exposed fiberglass involved this is no job for an amateur.  

Are you saying that water is coming out of this hole?  That's not a good sign if it is.  Fiberglass wicks water like a sponge and can lead to delamination quickly.  

[hotspringsbass]

Surfer,

I recently repaired a hole in my fiberglass boat that was caused by the previous owner backing it into a fence post while on the trailer.  I had the same issue with the water/moisture in the fiberglass.  While I am not a body repair man I was proud of my patch and it has lasted several trips on the water with no signs of problems.  It took about 3 weeks for it to dry out and that was in the hot weather we are having in the south this summer.  I tried to speed it up with compressed air blowing the damage out for about a week on a daily basis.  After it was dry I used the product that BONDO has for patches called BONDOGLASS they also have another one that is for larger patches.  I picked it up at Auto Zone for about $11.00.  Worked great and is water proof.  My best suggestion is when mixing the hardening compound use just enough as in the directions and work quickly once it starts to harden it is finished.  My patch required 4 coats of this patch until I thought is was perfect.  Sanding between coats with coarse paper and the final sanding with fine sandpaper. I would only use this if there is not structure damage that would cause the boat to flex in the area of the patch.  It can be used with the fiberglass mat but I think it is designed to patch areas that are not structural.   Good luck.

[surfer]

I should have said up front that the boat only cost $1200 and could be replaced for $2000.  I don't want to pay a Pro $500.  I think I can get it done for less than $100 and 8 hours of my time.

Yes water is weeping out of the hull.  I understand that it's not a surf board.  My background is carpentry.  I have good tools and am familiar with mixing resin correctly.  Surfboard repair is one layer of light weight cloth.  Boat patch is 4 layers of heavy weight cloth.  

You guys are right though I am an amateur at boat fiberglass.  It's a cheap old boat whose value can't go much lower.  If there was ever a time to learn this might be it.  I think I have the skills and with a little good advice I know I can get it water tight and able to withstand a 30 MPH choppy ride.  Looks aren't important this time around.

Dose any one have any experience with hull patching that they want to share?

Hot Springs,

Glad to hear you're happy with your patch and that it works.  You are right about mixing in the hardener.  I use a postage scale to measure my resin to hardener ratio.  It's a big help.

Catt,

By "more than a patch" are you talking about fiberglass prep work of cutting away loose glass sanding etc. or are you talking about interior structural members?

[Catt]

Since you have a background in carpentry this maybe some what easier, below you will find a web link that should be very helpful.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/17.htm

[surfer]

Thanks Catt.  I sure wish i could patch this from the inside.  The McKee is full of foam like a Boston Whaler.

[Way2slow]

A proper repair should be a double sided patch.  In other words, the hull is ground out from both sides and their should be a layer of patch materical on both sides of the hole.  This gives fresh resin and glass material on both side to bond to.   This makes it much more likely to stay.  A single sided patch, just patching it from the outside requires a little more knowledge/skill and even the best of them can sometimes start to seperate from the old glass.  

[surfer]

No option for the double sided or inside patch.  The McKee is build like a surfboard.  ;D  Its full of foam on the inside.

[Way2slow]

You will probably save money in the long run by paying a a shop to repair it but it's easy enough to try yourself. Take a small 4 1/2" disc grind with 36 grit disc and grind an area about 4" all the way around the hole. Get one of those fiberglass repair kit Home Depot sells that has the matt and resin all in one kit. Follow the directions on the kit and patch your hole. Let it cure and smooth it off. If the boat spends a lot of time in the water, you will need to get some gel coat and seal it. If your going to seal it with gel coat, leave enough of a recess for a layer of gel, then sand the gel smooth. On the gel, put a layer of plastic sheet over it, and brase a piece of plywood or something smooth and flat against it and let it cure. This will give you a fairly smooth surface and save a bunch of sanding. Gel has to be sealed from the air to cure so to be on the safe side, get some that has the wax in it and is self sealing. The wax comes to the surface and seals the gel off from the air. The plastic does also.

I should have mentioned, before you start grinding, get one of those full body paper suits, dust mask, goggles, latex gloves and anything elso to cover as much skin as possilbe.  Use vasoline to cover any exposed skin like you face etc.  That dust will make life hell for a while when it gets into your skin. Wear some cloths you don't mind throwing away when done also. If that dust gets into load of cloths in the washing machine, somebodys not going to be a happy camper.

[flechero]

Thanks Catt. I sure wish i could patch this from the inside. The McKee is full of foam like a Boston Whaler.

That foam can take "forever" to dry out.  I wish they used a different foam.  Good luck.

[surfer]

Day 12.  Prep work finished.  The hull is still driping.  

[Bunnerrabbit]

Should I join you? Looking at buying a 84 17ft McKee. Stopped and looked at it AGAIN today offered $900 last night and he said OK(NO MOTOR). Boat is oozing out water about 4 places. Pulled front foam cover cap and its wet. Has a ton of bottom paint on it so its really hard to tell. All 4 places are on a corner of a 90 bend on the bottom of the hull running down the right side. Im guessing I can grind the whole area down and run a 2 inch by 60 or so inch patch down the bottom. Looking for opinion go for it or stay away?

[cart7t]

Should I join you? Looking at buying a 84 17ft McKee. Stopped and looked at it AGAIN today offered $900 last night and he said OK(NO MOTOR). Boat is oozing out water about 4 places. Pulled front foam cover cap and its wet. Has a ton of bottom paint on it so its really hard to tell. All 4 places are on a corner of a 90 bend on the bottom of the hull running down the right side. Im guessing I can grind the whole area down and run a 2 inch by 60 or so inch patch down the bottom. Looking for opinion go for it or stay away?

I wouldn't touch that thing. Unless you can get that cap off and expose the foam to dry it, it will merely sit there waterlogged and then mold and mildew will set in (if it hasn't already) and then deterioration, don't think the stringer system can't be affected by sitting with that wet foam all around it.

Why buy a headache?  

[surfer]

Bunnerrabbit,

I would say no.

I bought my boat with a trailer and working 60 hp motor for $1,200.  At that price I figured if i get three years out of it that's only $400 a year then I don't care if it sinks.  I am curently up to $2k invested with other minor repairs and a plywood back deck.  Add to this my labor of roughly 30 hours total (I originaly planed on 5).  I am currently a little beyond where I planed on being.  If anything goes wrong with the motor I am upside down.

In your case you have a lot more repairs to put into it plus it still needs a motor.  If you can afford the $900, the time investment, and plan on it failing in a few years then maybe.  

Now let's look at the motor you would need.  With all the extra water weight in the foam you would need allota HP to push it.  So a tiller is out of the question.  You will need rigging.  When the waterlogged boat fails that's more work to recover the motor and rigging than just a tiller.

I am with cart7

I wouldn't touch that thing.

[surfer]

Hull repair complete.  $30 and 8 hours of my work.  Fortunately I had all the needed tools and only had to buy the fiber glass kit.  Test voyage yesterday and it is water tight and good to 30 MPH.  The foam is still wet and heavy and the boat lists slightly right.